B8 A4: DIY Manual Transmission Fluid Change

[Dan_Q]

You’ll need pretty minimal mechanical ability for this one. You need ~4.5 qts of the proper gear oil and you should also replace the 6 bolts holding the front subframe on as well. Sorry, I don’t have the P/N for those. I bought them from the parts counter at a local dealer and threw away the recipt.

I used Redline MT-90 75W/90 Synthetic fluid.



Step 1: Get the car up levelly on four jackstands . You need the car level in order to fill the diff properly.

Step 2: Remove the Front and Rear Undertrays with a T-25 torx, 5 mm allen, Phillips screwdriver and large flathead screwdriver. Note the gaping hole in my front undertray that one of my local Audi dealers didn’t even note when I brought it in for the 15k service (hey it was free for me via Audicare from the car’s original owner). The hole in the undertray had a matching smashed sway bar bracket to go with it. Anyway, I spotted that about 500 miles after I brought the car in. A hidden gift from the original owner. I’ve since replaced the bracket (and sways) but haven’t bought a new undertray. It would take a seriously trained factory technician to miss this problem. You can barely see the 4" wide hole.

Front Undertray


Rear Undertray


Step 3: Disconnect the nut holding the power steering cooler to the Front Subframe using a 10 mm socket.



Step 4: Remove the six bolts holding the front subframe on using an 18 mm socket. Note my subframe is not stock so yours may look different.



Step 5: Remove the fill plug (red) using a 10 mm allen. Remove the drain plug (blue) using an 10 mm allen as well. Always remove the fill plug first, because if you open the drain plug first and the fill plug ends up being stuck then you’re F’d.



Step 6: Drain the fluid into a pan.



I found this in what drained out. That can’t be good but at least I got it out of there …



Old fluid wasn’t looking too good. I labeled the fluids in the photo so you can tell the difference. Very tough to tell the difference at first glance.



Step 7: Once empty, reinstall the drain plug. This is the only car I’ve ever owned that didn’t have a crush washer on these plugs. I have no idea what the torque is but I torqued it to 32 ft-lbs. Seems about right for this size bolt.

Step 8: Pump fluid into the transmission through the fill hole. I use my trusty syringe which holds about a half qt of fluid.



Step 9: Keep filling until you get a steady stream of fluid draining out the fill hole. Mine took about 4.5 qts. Get 6 and do your rear diff at the same time. You'll have a little less than a half a qt left.



Step 10: Reinstall the drain plug (again no crush washer). Again I have no idea what the torque is but I torqued it to 32 ft-lbs because that seems about right for this size bolt. This is obviously a non critical bolt and torquing it is good practice but not all that critical. I spray everything down with brake cleaner when I'm done so that if a leak ever happens it will be evident.

Step 11: Reinstall the Front Subframe using the new bolts. They are to be torque to 90 ft-lbs and then given 135° of additional turning to plastically deform the bolts in place. You’re going to need a long breaker bar to turn them that much past the torqued value.

Step 12: Reinstall the front and rear undertrays.

Step 13: Lower the car if you’re done.

I do this on all my cars every 30k miles. Audi recommends never doing it and says the stock fluid will last the "lifetime" of the transmission. Of course the "lifetime" of the transmission will be severely shortened if you never replace the fluid. If you do it every 30k miles it will last significantly longer. Hell if you do it at any interval other than never it will last a lot longer.

When you take it for a spin the difference on this will be night and day. Your trans will shift way smoother and there is no possible way you could not notice the difference. Because the fluid degrades slowly, you don't notice it while it is happening. I replaced all my fluids when I brought the car home with 18k miles from the first owner because I wanted to use better than stock fluids. Now the car has 44k miles so it was nearing 30k miles since the last change. The new fluid/old fluid photo is the same Redline fluid with one having 26,000 miles of use and the other having none. The stock fluid I took out a 18k miles looked even worse. In addition the factory apparently did not see a need to tighten the trans drain plug and it looked like there had been a small leak for some time. The bolt broke away with about 2 ft-lbs of force the first time I changed it.

[K1_Builder]

Excellent write up Dan. Great contribution to the 6spd crowd. I will be doing this next weekend. Looking forward to the shifting feedback as my ride has 57k miles with original fluid. Have a good weekend.

[TCHUN003]

You rock! Is it different for automatic transmissions?

[eyrah]

+1

[NJRoadFan]

Remember that automatics have gear oil too. The center and front differential have their own fill and drain plugs. GL-5 gear oil should be safe for automatics and the rear differential, no synchros to worry about on those.

[TCHUN003]

Ouch, looks like it's almost $200 to get 6qts for a 6spd auto

http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=192&parent=58

read this thread:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...smission+fluid

[TheHeiko]

Ouch, looks like it's almost $200 to get 6qts for a 6spd auto

http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=192&parent=58

read this thread:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...smission+fluid

It shouldn't be that much. Redline shows a gallon of what we would need for $45. A gallon is 4 quarts so it's about $11 a quart.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&pcid=9

EDIT: Read a bit of that thread. I guess if one wants to stick with Lifeguard but couldn't we drain and refill with Redline?

[TCHUN003]

It shouldn't be that much. Redline shows a gallon of what we would need for $45. A gallon is 4 quarts so it's about $11 a quart.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&pcid=9

EDIT: Read a bit of that thread. I guess if one wants to stick with Lifeguard but couldn't we drain and refill with Redline?

That thread was stating that we can't use anything but the Lifeguard 8 on our 6spd auto. That's what ZF uses. If we decide to use a different fluid, EVERY last drop of the old fluid would need to be removed from the system since we can't mix different types of fluid (meaning we would have to take the transmission apart) :(

[TheHeiko]

That thread was stating that we can't use anything but the Lifeguard 8 on our 6spd auto. That's what ZF uses. If we decide to use a different fluid, EVERY last drop of the old fluid would need to be removed from the system since we can't mix different types of fluid (meaning we would have to take the transmission apart) :(

That makes sense. I'm at 30,000 miles and have warranty until November but still wouldn't mind changing the ATF since everything I've read suggests a 30,000 mile interval.

Here's where our bulk buy could save us some money. $233 for a dozen 1 liter bottles of LifeGuard8 for $233. That's under $20 a liter. I'd split a case with you.

http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=193&parent=58

[Dan_Q]

Is it different for automatic transmissions?

I'm going to assume you didn't really mean to ask that. Because surely you know that autos are totally different. They have a torque converter you can't readily gain access to which holds the majority of your transmission fluid, you likely have a filter in there that needs replacing, and in general automatic transmissions use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and not gear oil as the lubricant.

If you were asking about an automatic transmission in a Toyota 4Runner, BMW X3 or Acura MDX I could help you. But I've never even seen an Audi automatic and know nothing about them. But suffice it to say, it is nothing like replacing the fluid in a manual transmission. But I'm confident you can figure out how to do it. Step 1 is to figure out if you have a transmission cooler, because if you do then you can break a hose connection there and feed a hose from the supply side to drain it and feed another hose to the return line to supply the new fluid. That is typically the easiest way to do a full swap. And yeah you need a lot of fluid and it's expensive stuff.

[jbradle7]

Excellent write up Dan. Great contribution to the 6spd crowd.

+1, thanks! I'll probably wait and do mine during the 55k service... been under the car too much lately.

[Stuck'ite]

Redline is the only way to go for me. Ran it in my old Landcruiser (4spd Manual wiht a 7.5:1 first gear and no syncros in first), my Misti's 5 sod, my motorcycles.....everything. It is amazing oil. I will be swapping my 8spd auto and all my diffs to it very soon, engine has been on it for a while.

[Okan509]

seems easy enough. Thanks dude!

[Highlander1010]

Much appreciated Dan! I'm hoping we can continue to find more info on the forum on changing the Auto Trans fluid as well. My Audi dealer told me they don't have to do it at all with the new Quattro Transmissions, to which I was thinking "WTF?"

[Creatre]

Thank you so much dude!!! Had some fluid sitting in my garage waiting to do this but didn't want to move forward without a DIY. THANKS! :)

[Highlander1010]

Two Stupid questions.

1. I'm going to replace my transmission filter and gasket at the same time. Thoughts?
2. How do we find out what transmission type we have to order the right fluid?

Thanks!

[Fburg A4]

Here is how I went about checking for the right trans fluid, you can also look at a tag on the transmission itself. This is for automatic fluid which seems to be a little more particular. I figured since you're changing the filter you have an automatic.

Below is the RPO sticker I located on the underside of the spare tire cover (I think that's where it was):


After finding KXT, I then checked out the column titled "Letter Code" at http://www.tsgparts.net/index.php?p=...ge_id=a4_trans and found 6HP28AF for "Trans Type" in the same row.

Then I went to https://serviceline.zf.com/interoele...011_en0700.pdf and used 6HP28AF to find G060162 A1 / A2 / A6 ATF as the trans fluid. The A1/A2/A6 are just designations for the product size (qt, gal, barrel, etc.) Also make note that 6HP28 is not the same as 6HP28AF.

Finding a place to purchase the fluid is another matter. I've seen it range from $20-$55 per quart depending on if you get ZF fluid or buy it from dealer. There are places that claim they have trans fluid compatible with G060162, but not many have been willing to take the risk from what I've seen.

[jiggysmb]

I'm not sure how your oil got so crappy. My dealer said I should not change my fluid even thought I was at 130k. I changed it anyway and the fluid that was drained looked and felt exactly the same as the Motul 300 Synthetic I put back in.

[DJ_AudiA4]

is the 3 quart service kit that is sold by ECS enough fluid? or do i need to buy some extra quarts?

[DoItAllGarage]

Excellent write up! I agree, this fuild should be changed. I changed my MT transmission on my SI with amsoil and it made a (night and day) difference! Once I hit 30k miles on the b8 its getting done!

[grnfool]

is the 3 quart service kit that is sold by ECS enough fluid? or do i need to buy some extra quarts?

I did a fluid change this past weekend, you'll need about 4.5qts. Drivetrain Stabilizer Bolts are P/N N91151101

Dan - great write up! As I was laying under the car giving my shoulder a break from pumping the hand pump, I wondered if it would have been easier to use a funnel and attach one end to the funnel and the other to the tranny filling hole. You wouldn't be able to see the hole as you're filling it, but you could check after the 4qt.

[Packy]

Ouch, looks like it's almost $200 to get 6qts for a 6spd auto

http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=192&parent=58

read this thread:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...smission+fluid

well worth it for good oil. Redline is among the best.

[grnfool]

I've drained and filled my transmission fluid twice in the past year and thought I'd share my experiences.

I followed Dan_Q's DIY as written for the first change. I made the car level, removed the plastic trays, and drivetrain stabilizer. I used a hand pump I bought off Amazon to fill the transmission with MT-90. My biggest issue was that the pump leaked, making it difficult to maintain a firm grip. Post-fluid change, the shifts seemed more crisp. I wasn't expecting any significant improvement since I only had 25K miles on the fluid.

As weeks passed, I noticed that my fuel economy had decreased and had cold weather related issues. I typically see a ~1.5mpg drop in the fall, but was seeing a decrease of ~3mpg (yes, I'm one of those that records every tank filled and calculates fuel economy). I thought I was just driving more aggressively and just shrugged it off until winter weather arrived. The issues started ~35F and got worse as temps dropped. Shifting required additional force. As temperatures reached into the single digits, a significant amount of force was needed to shift. There were times that I thought I was going to break something while trying to get into 2nd. The cold also brought random grinding surprises when granny shifting into 4th. Once the transmission warmed up, the issues went away. This was my 3rd winter with the car and the first two were unlike this past winter.

I went ahead and changed back to OEM transmission fluid to avoid the cold weather issues I had with MT-90. This time I did not remove the drivetrain stabilizer. It is possible to get a 90 degree allen key onto the drain plug and loosen it. To avoid getting fluid all over the stabilizer, I used clips to attach foil to the transmission fins and let the foil slope back and off the rear end of the stabilizer the collection pan was. To fill the transmission, I connected a funnel to ~5ft of clear tubing. I routed the tube from the top of the engine bay down and into the fill port. While I was underneath the car holding the tube into the fill port, I had my GF pour fluid down the funnel. This saved me a lot of time and a mess. It also saved me $$$ since I didn't have to replace the stabilizer bolts which are expensive.

* Keep in mind that I'm just a weekend garage DIY and do not have any formal training. Any attempts to repeat my modified procedure will be at your own risk.

[zokissima]

So, you used the same fluid for the transmission and rear diff?

[grnfool]

So, you used the same fluid for the transmission and rear diff?

Yes. I will be going back to OEM fluid soon.

[zokissima]

Thanks for posting your experiences. I was really surprised to read that one had to drop the subframe to replace this fluid...which seems like an overengineered vehicle.

You picked up the fluid at an Audi dealership? How much for 6qt needed for the transmission and rear diff?

[grnfool]

You picked up the fluid at an Audi dealership? How much for 6qt needed for the transmission and rear diff?

I ordered the trans and diff fluid from http://genuineaudiparts.com. I had them confirm part number and qty for my car before ordering. Trans fluid was $21/L and diff fluid was $28/L

[zokissima]

Thanks again, this is GREAT info. I'm at 72.xxx KM right now, and I'm used to doing this around the 75k km mark on my previous cars, so basically, time to order.

[zokissima]

ALso, any chance you can confirm the part number and quantity you ordered from the site you posted? In particular the diff fluid....the site seems to be down now, and I think I have some local sources. Also, any chance you could update with your experiences after you go back to the genuine Audi fluids?

[grnfool]

I ordered one G-052-145-S2 and five G-055-532-A2.

There was noticeable metallic flakes in the old fluid. Eliminating those flakes and new fluid has made shifts smooth, almost butter smooth. I can't comment on the cold weather issues until later as it's still well above freezing here.

[zokissima]

I was tossing over whether to go with MT-90 or the Audi fluid (Audi genuine is over twice the $$ as MT-90 75w90). I ended up going with MT-90. Will be swapping it in a few weeks and providing my feedback. As for cold weather...I wont' have to wait too much longer to find out.

[wxsgt]

is this the same process for a CVT and also has anyone tried to use the Valvoline or AMSoil CVT fluid?? they say they are direct replacements for the audi fluid specifying the part number.

[helldriver]

I'm going to get this done along with my motor oil and filter soon, 2nd gear is a mother when its below 35 degrees out until i get some heat under the hood, thanks for sharing the DIY..

-Scott

[carnzen1]

Looking at doing this soon. My B8 w/ 68k is starting to disagree with me in a few spots on the shifter. Any more cold-weather advice on MT-90 vs OEM?

[zokissima]

There was another thread here that stated the MT-90 fluid posted in this thread is completely the wrong fluid to use for this transmission, and that they do offer another one which is for the car. If you want to risk the MT-90, give me a PM, I'll give you a GREAT price on the 5 brand new quarts I have that I want to get rid of.

[grnfool]

Looking at doing this soon. My B8 w/ 68k is starting to disagree with me in a few spots on the shifter. Any more cold-weather advice on MT-90 vs OEM?

I went back to OEM in Nov 2014 after a year with MT-90. No shifting problems in last weeks cold weather. MT-90 would have been extremely difficult until the fluid warmed up and something I wasn't willing to deal with for another winter. A difference of ~$60 over another 70k miles is nothing. Save yourself time, money, and trouble, stick with OEM.

[carnzen1]

Thanks all, I'll probably stick with OEM.

Now to find a thread on front end lubrication. Probably need to go to the shop and get it up on the rack. Some little noises that are hard to identify from inside.

[madman4you]

I just did this on my car. I had the GEARBOX Malfunction cel. My mechanic told me to do a full tranny service before I jump to the "Mechatronic" conclusion. I am out of warranty so it is all out of pocket. Anyway, I go to pick up my car and my mechanic tells me there was only 2L of oil that came out. And he said he thinks that super odd, but he thinks this is the reason for the fault code. Anyways, that was about a week and half ago, I have not experienced the fault code since. So I am still crossing my fingers hoping that was the issues, however I am left scratching my head as to how the tranny lost its fluid? The thing takes almost 6L I believe. Any thoughts?

[elscotto80]

I am about to get this done and got a quote from a shop. They are saying that the front diff has separate fluid. I do not think that's the case as I have a manual trans and the fluid is shared with the gears. Any one run into this?

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

[blbroo]

Bringing back an old thread rather than starting a new one. Any 6MT owners change out their transmission fluid lately? I'm at 95,000 miles and thinking about doing this when I install the short shifter I am requesting for xmas.