I need help choosing a 1.8T motor!

[FishEyee]

I am going to slam a 1.8T in my A4 sometime later... But I'm going to start collecting all the parts now... I just now learned there's a bunch of 1.8T engine codes and stuff but the only one I see people using is the AEB. What's the differences in the 1.8's and which one is best for modding... I'm looking to swap out my 2.8 12V when it's dead and put a 1.8 in there.. I'm not gonna ask how to do the swap because I already got some idea on how to do it...

For the 1.8 I'm getting I only plan to get a k04 turbo for it and whatever else goes with the k04 ... I've never touched a turbo before and I want to finally own a turbod car... I know I'm going to have to tune it but I'm going to bring it to 034 Motorsports since I live like 20 mins from them... Any tips advice or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

-fish

[protegenoob17]

i'll be honest i know nothing about the engine swaps. I haven't searched that topic because i already have the AEB engine. but these are the motors for the years.
AEB: 97-99.5 1.8T
ATW: 00 1.8T
AWM: 01-01.5 1.8T
APU: 99-01 1.8T (Europe)
AFC: 95+ 2.8L (12v)
AHA: 97+ 2.8L (30v)
ATQ: 97+ 2.8L (30v)

[FishEyee]

how is the AEB engine? and i believe i read somewhere that one of the 1.8T engines comes with forged internals... but which 1.8?

[ianwpb]

There is a lot of information about the differences between engines on this website.

To give you a very general, basic idea on the differences - The AEB ran from my 97-99.5 and was a Drive-By-Cable, rated at 150chp. The ATW ran in my 2000 and was Drive-By-Wire, rated at 150chp. The AWM motor ran in my 2001-01.5, rated at 170chp.

Based off of that information, you would want to go with the AEB. It would make the swap a little easier based on the fact that you wouldn't have to do a DBW swap.

[colony7]

the ATWs are rated for 150 also. the AEB has forged pistons, thats it, and i cant recall if the ATW does also. for what youre trying to do, theyd all work just as good honestly. the AEBs are drive by cable, had large port heads, external water pumps. the ATWs were the same except small port heads, and drive by wire. AWMs had small port heads, variable valve timing, internal water pumps, and drive by wire. the AWMs were also wideband, which is very good for tuning

[zandrew]

You will be better off selling what you currently have and buying a Audi A4 quattro 1.8t 5 speed if that is what you want. The only reason this would make any sense is if you have a shit ton of cash tied up in the car already that you would never come close to getting back out of it and I am referring to say $10,000+. Otherwise you are going to spend far more on swapping in 1.8t then the car will ultimately be worth. If you have a clean 2.8 sell it and buy the car you actually want. It will be right to begin with and you can jump right into setting it up as you please. No chasing down harness issues, parts that you don't have, learning things that you have no or limited expierence with.

More often then not I see people try swaps like this and the car ends up being sold as parts car in the end or is parted out. Most people look at only the big ticket items cost and don't realize that it is going to cost far more then intended.

Look at the market and see what you can get for your car and then also look and see what it will cost to get the one you want. Also realize later on down the road if by chance you do this swap and are successful it will be harder to sell that vehicle for anything close to what you have in it.

[MiniBoost]

not to thread jack, but AEB engine is both engine and block itself right? cause while rebuilding my motor, my block said AEB but my head is ATW or doesnt matter?

[FishEyee]

how much do you guys think my A4 is worth? its a 97 2.8 12v with 144k miles quattro

heres a list of everything ive done on it...

note all of these things i done myself... the prices are just the parts... i did the labor.

-HIDs & LED lighting ------------$110
-Eibach Lowering SPrings --------$350
-Rack & Pinion Replacment -------$300
-Oil Change (Castrol 10w-40) ----$50
-Rear Brake Pads ----------------$80
-B7 A4 Rims 17x7.5 et45 (4) -----$180
-New Coolant Temp Sensor --------$30
-Wheel Locks --------------------$40
-Tune-Up (plugs & Fuel) ---------$60
-Magnaflow 14816 exhaust --------$150
-(4) Falken 215/50/R17 ----------$320
-(6) ECS Tuning Steel Brake
Lines and Racing ATE DOT4 Fluid-$125
-New brake fluid resevoir -------$45
-New Timing belt service incldng:
timing belt, tensioner roller,
idler roller, serpentine belt,
water pump, thermostat, new
coolant, new coolant resevoir---$220
- Clutch, Pressure Plate,
Throwout Bearing------------------$250

things to come...

front brake pads and rotors (new) $180
cabin filter $15
fuel filter $30
Manual Transmission Service $65
Rear Differential Service(including axle seals) $85
Front axles $120 (for both)

ive spent quite a bit of money on it already thats why i want to do the swap... i just feel like we've been through a lot you know? i want our relationship to last but if dumping her for a 1.8 is what you guys reccomend then i will consider... :P

[colony7]

anything that you replace due to age or wear, you cant add into the price. i had my a4 fully built with custom everything and still only got $4500 for it when i wrecked it. and AEB and ATW codes both use an AEB or 058 block

[FishEyee]

anything that you replace due to age or wear, you cant add into the price. i had my a4 fully built with custom everything and still only got $4500 for it when i wrecked it. and AEB and ATW codes both use an AEB or 058 block

i see what youre saying... so do you think maybe i should just keep my a4 and ride it til it falls apart and get a new car later or what. because im worried if i wait until my car is like 200k + miles then its not going to be worth much...

[nynoah]

Sell your car, buy a 1.8t and make sure its a 2001.5. You are going to get in way over your head if you try to do a swap. Swaps only make sense on cars that never came with the engine. Why? Because economically speaking you will never win in a swap when you can buy the car just like what you are going for.

[FishEyee]

Sell your car, you will never win in a swap when you can buy the car just like what you are going for.

damnnn you just crushed my dreams of doing an engine swap hahaha! just kidding... i think you guys are right... i guess i was just in over my head about this whole swap idea... thanks for all the advice guys... you guys are the best! i think im going to keep my a4 untill i have a little more money... i might be getting a S4 who knows :D

[c0r3y.af]

not to thread jack, but AEB engine is both engine and block itself right? cause while rebuilding my motor, my block said AEB but my head is ATW or doesnt matter?

AEB is technically the code of the head, although some people use AEB in reference to an 058 block with an AEB head. The block is either 058 or 06A.

[Mad Cow]

You will be better off selling what you currently have and buying a Audi A4 quattro 1.8t 5 speed if that is what you want. The only reason this would make any sense is if you have a shit ton of cash tied up in the car already that you would never come close to getting back out of it and I am referring to say $10,000+. Otherwise you are going to spend far more on swapping in 1.8t then the car will ultimately be worth. If you have a clean 2.8 sell it and buy the car you actually want. It will be right to begin with and you can jump right into setting it up as you please. No chasing down harness issues, parts that you don't have, learning things that you have no or limited expierence with.

More often then not I see people try swaps like this and the car ends up being sold as parts car in the end or is parted out. Most people look at only the big ticket items cost and don't realize that it is going to cost far more then intended.

Look at the market and see what you can get for your car and then also look and see what it will cost to get the one you want. Also realize later on down the road if by chance you do this swap and are successful it will be harder to sell that vehicle for anything close to what you have in it.

I did a more involved swap for less than $1,500 all in, including the cost of the motor, and you'll be left with a massive pile of parts that you can sell to make some of that back. It's been daily driven for a couple weeks now and it runs almost perfectly, still need to sort out some small issues but it gets me around no problem. It did take me half a year and hours upon hours of research and planning though, so definitely not for the faint of heart. Swapping an AEB into a DBC car will be much, much easier, basically everything will just bolt right up. Mind you I never would've done this if my motor didn't blow.

[FishEyee]

Swapping an AEB into a DBC car will be much, much easier, basically everything will just bolt right up. Mind you I never would've done this if my motor didn't blow.

hold on... whats a dbc? how do i know if my car has this DBC or not? and also i didnt know AEB was just the head... i thought it was the whole engine...

[ianwpb]

DBC - drive by cable. <99.5 cars. You're DBC.

[jvega21]

hold on... whats a dbc? how do i know if my car has this DBC or not? and also i didnt know AEB was just the head... i thought it was the whole engine...

AEB like explained earlier is the entire engine. but the AEB cylinder head has bigger ports, which flow more. Some guys with BIG turbos like to use them to get everything out of there set up. the later 1.8 engines have smaller port heads.
AEB=engine.
AEB head=large port

[FishEyee]

AEB=engine.
AEB head=large port

ok so AEB is an engine but AEB head is something else? do i still get those large ports in a regular AEB engine? im kinda confused here it sounds to me like the AEB motor has a different head or something...

[colony7]

if the head in your car says AEB, you have an AEB head paired with an 058 block. if it says ATW, you have an ATW head paired with an 058 block. if it says AWM you have an AWM head paired with an 06A block. only the AEB has large ports, and only the AWM has VVT. ATW was like a mutt basically, with neither of the good from the earlier or latter.

[FishEyee]

if the head in your car says AEB, you have an AEB head paired with an 058 block. if it says ATW, you have an ATW head paired with an 058 block. if it says AWM you have an AWM head paired with an 06A block. only the AEB has large ports, and only the AWM has VVT. ATW was like a mutt basically, with neither of the good from the earlier or latter.

okay so if i got the AEB would i be able to slap a KO4 on there no problem? the AEB is the one with forged internals right? also how much HP can the AEB's internals handle? do you think with stock internals can it handle the APR stage III turbo kit? haha sorry for the noob questions i just wanna know what im dealing with here

[redline380]

AEB is technically the code of the head, although some people use AEB in reference to an 058 block with an AEB head. The block is either 058 or 06A.

not entirely true. The engine code is stamped on the block too.

As for op, you can use any 1.8t engine you want, but the swap would be a pain in the ass. Only way I could see it making sense is if you get a wrecked 1.8 for free or damn near

[jvega21]

^^what he said.

if you can find someone parting out a car and can get the full set up super cheap and have the space and time, go for it. but more than likely the cost will outweigh the benefits.

here is a quote from the Noob guide in the tech section.
"
1.8T AEB = 1997-1999
1.8T ATW = 2000
1.8T AWM = 2001

AEB is DBC(drive by cable) or a.k.a. nDBW(non drive by wire) meaning that there is an actual cable conected to the throttlebody. which is more easily tuned
ATW and AWM is DBW(drive by wire) means that the ECU, the computer, controls the throttlebody. harder to custom tune and can have a mind of its own sometimes..

AEB has the larger port head and 20 mm wrist pins.
"ATW is the bastard engine w/ the AEB bottom end and the small port AWM head" 94jedi.
The AWM has 19mm wrist pins, small port head and internal waterpump"

[FishEyee]

^^what he said.

if you can find someone parting out a car and can get the full set up super cheap and have the space and time, go for it. but more than likely the cost will outweigh the benefits.

here is a quote from the Noob guide in the tech section.
"
1.8T AEB = 1997-1999
1.8T ATW = 2000
1.8T AWM = 2001

AEB is DBC(drive by cable) or a.k.a. nDBW(non drive by wire) meaning that there is an actual cable conected to the throttlebody.

"ATW is the bastard engine w/ the AEB bottom end and the small port AWM head" 94jedi.
The AWM has 19mm wrist pins, small port head and internal waterpump"

ok so is my car drive by wire or drive by cable? and also is the DBC easier to swap or DBW?

and the AEB has an external water pump correct? do you think the AEB would be able to handle a APR stage 3 turbo kit?

[redline380]

I'll clear this up. The only forged inside any 1.8t engine is the pistons. They all have the same limiting factor. The rods. I don't care how big the aeb wrist pin size is, the neck of the rod is the same as any other.

And I don't know what the confusion about engine codes is.
An aeb engine is just that. The WHOLE engine. If Audi changed anything about it they would designate a different code. This is most prevelant in a b5 Passat. Aug and awm's used in passats are identical as far as I know. The only difference in them is the power level.

[FishEyee]

I'll clear this up. The only forged inside any 1.8t engine is the pistons. They all have the same limiting factor. The rods. I don't care how big the aeb wrist pin size is, the neck of the rod is the same as any other.

And I don't know what the confusion about engine codes is.
An aeb engine is just that. The WHOLE engine. If Audi changed anything about it they would designate a different code. This is most prevelant in a b5 Passat. Aug and awm's used in passats are identical as far as I know. The only difference in them is the power level.

okay thanks for clearing that up! but what i want to know is will the stock internals hold up to a bigger turbo / tune

[csosnowski]

k04+tune on a stock motor will be fine. The stock internals are good until you crest 300whp. k04 wont get you there, eliminator turbos and bigger will.

The APR stage 3 kit was designed to be able to be bolted on to a stock motor without replacing the rods.

[melomandn]

Sell your car, buy a 1.8t and make sure its a 2001.5. You are going to get in way over your head if you try to do a swap. Swaps only make sense on cars that never came with the engine. Why? Because economically speaking you will never win in a swap when you can buy the car just like what you are going for.

Any 2001 car is fine, doesn't have to be 2001.5

[FishEyee]

k04+tune on a stock motor will be fine. The stock internals are good until you crest 300whp. k04 wont get you there, eliminator turbos and bigger will.

The APR stage 3 kit was designed to be able to be bolted on to a stock motor without replacing the rods.

alright cool cool... man thats a lot of money now that i think about it... i think i might as well should buy a 1.8T car instead... theres a bunch of 99 A4 1.8T Quattros on craigslist for like 1500-2500$ ...