Mocal 19x235 OCK install

[BITRBO]

I briefly STFA's but couldn't find any DIY's of someone with this OCK installed on their s4. I got the core and VR6 thermostatted fitting kit from USRT and I'm pretty sure I can figure out the install, but a DIY would be nice if there was one... As far as the core, I was thinking of installing it vertically like MarkP did on AudiSRS:



...but it doesn't look like it's attached to anything at the bottom (i.e. it just "hangs" there). Should I at least put a couple small neoprene rubber pads between the stock RAD and the Mocal and zip-tie it back so they don't touch/rub/rattle against each other? And what is that looping tube thing? A/C? I just bent it out of the way like Mark did.

Also, I wasn't sure if those folks that track their cars are also running the OEM oil/coolant exchanger too... I live in south FL and the car is only street driven a few times a month, so warmup time isn't really a concern. Should I still keep it if possible? I still plan to run the Mann/Meyle oil filter and it looks like it will be really tight with both...

Lastly, my cooler came silver and I'd kind of like it black if possible... Does anyone think it would be a problem to spray a thin coating of black paint over just the front and sides? That shouldn't really affect heat transfer at all, right?

TIA!

[hanzy]

The "looping tube thing" is the power steering "cooler" line.

[The_Auto_Tech]

I made my own cooler setup. I ended up removing the OEM P/S cooler and used an aftermarket tube and fin cooler mounted up in top right corner of the radiator. I am running the stock oil cooler as well as the thermostatic sandwhich plate since I drive my car in the winter and it takes a while to warm up to operating temperature. If you're in FL and don't drive it in cold temperatures I would remove the factory one and run the large oil filter. A thin coat of black paint isn't going to affect its heat exchanging properties.

[*Blue-Angel*]

This is temporary of course. Once I get around to it I plan on making brackets to house booth coolers. Increasing the size of the oil cooler and getting rid of the stock oil/water cooler. If you run a large enough air/oil cooler you dont need the water/oil cooler. Your better off keeping the systems separate and letting them take care of themselves.

[Eric323]

Looks good!

[The_Auto_Tech]

This is temporary of course. Once I get around to it I plan on making brackets to house booth coolers. Increasing the size of the oil cooler and getting rid of the stock oil/water cooler. If you run a large enough air/oil cooler you dont need the water/oil cooler. Your better off keeping the systems separate and letting them take care of themselves.

I agree. If you live in an area that it's warm all the time get rid of the stock oil cooler and run the large 1.8T oil filter. The stock cooler is useful in cold temps to help warm the oil using the coolant, but when you live somewhere that it's 50 degrees at the coldest you don't need it. I retained it because it regularly gets to -10 here in Iowa. Also, if the stock oil cooler fails internally you'll get oil and coolant mixing together. Here's a shot of my oil and P/S coolers:



I think it cost me around 100 dollars to build both those setups and they've worked excellent.

[BITRBO]

These are all good setups - thanks. An old Volvo/VW/Audi mechanic friend told me the same thing about the OEM exchangers leaking sometimes, and it basically requires a rebuild afterward. I also like the idea of running a larger filter, so I think I will remove it.

So the standard 1.8t Mann/Meyle oil filter will screw right on then?

[The_Auto_Tech]

These are all good setups - thanks. An old Volvo/VW/Audi mechanic friend told me the same thing about the OEM exchangers leaking sometimes, and it basically requires a rebuild afterward. I also like the idea of running a larger filter, so I think I will remove it.

So the standard 1.8t Mann/Meyle oil filter will screw right on then?

Yes, it's rare, but does happen. The filter you'll be getting will be for a 98-05 Passat 1.8T or 96-05 A4 1.8T. You'll know it's the right one if it's about the size of two coffee mugs stacked together. Before I installed my thermostatic plate I used to run the big 1.8T filter without a space issue, so you'll be perfectly fine with the OEM cooler removed.

[BITRBO]

So does anyone who deleted their OEM cooler have any tips on removal? Once I disconnect the coolant lines, do I just connect them with a barbed, double-nipple? Or should they be cut back some first? I loosened one of the clamps and started wiggling off the hose, and coolant immediately started squirting out... I can tell this I going to be messy as hell by the time I get the two off and connected to each other

[The_Auto_Tech]

Yep, just get a double barbed fitting. I would just go to your local hardware store and look. I believe you might even be able to scare up a u-bend one that would work perfectly. You may have to trim the hoses back 1/2" or so to make a bit of clearance for the fitting.

[joe@vwvortex]

So does anyone who deleted their OEM cooler have any tips on removal? Once I disconnect the coolant lines, do I just connect them with a barbed, double-nipple? Or should they be cut back some first? I loosened one of the clamps and started wiggling off the hose, and coolant immediately started squirting out... I can tell this I going to be messy as hell by the time I get the two off and connected to each other

Clamp the hoses before taking them off. Simple barbed fitting will work. What you will need is a shorter fitting for the oil filter to screw on to. Some oil cooler kits come with them.

[BITRBO]

Yep, just get a double barbed fitting. I would just go to your local hardware store and look. I believe you might even be able to scare up a u-bend one that would work perfectly. You may have to trim the hoses back 1/2" or so to make a bit of clearance for the fitting.

Good idea on the u-bend, cause the two hoses kinda point in the wrong direction with respect to each other... I was originally thinking I could just remove the shorter one entirely and connect the longer one directly to that horizontal hardline, but I think a) the longer hose end doesn't have the right angle so it might kink, and b) there may not be enough slack anyway.

Clamp the hoses before taking them off. Simple barbed fitting will work. What you will need is a shorter fitting for the oil filter to screw on to. Some oil cooler kits come with them.

I was thinking of using a regular vice-grips like a hemostat but didn't want to damage the hose... I'll see if I can find a needle-nose one w/ smoother jaws.

The kit comes with two fittings: a long one for using the OEM cooler and a shorter one for the delete. I can't seem to loosen the OEM threaded nipple though, and it has like two black (plastic?) prongs that stick into the cooler, so hopefully those are removable cause this thermostate plate doesn't have those same holes



BTW, in the photo I posted at the very top, it appears that MarkP has the same cooler, black hose and barbed fittings as I do... Are those fittings supposed to take standard hose clamps or do they just slip-on and stay there? Maybe he just hadn't isntalled them in that photo, but I would think you have to put something, right? My kit didn't come with any so it kind has me confused...

[*Blue-Angel*]

To answer the PMs I have been getting. I recommend Setrab, Mocal or Earls for the oil coolers. As far as lines Aeroquip, good ridge, earls are rebuttable brands. Their are others, fragola etc. The therm plate pictured is a Earls product. It's on the large side but works perfectly. Much better than the Chinese products. This set up stays closed initially then gradually opens up at 160 degrees to allow oil into the cooler to aide with proper oil pressures at start up and allow the oil to come up to temp. I believe the cooler is on full use at 200. My temps don't go higher than 220 so it's perfect for the oil I use.

[joe@vwvortex]

Good idea on the u-bend, cause the two hoses kinda point in the wrong direction with respect to each other... I was originally thinking I could just remove the shorter one entirely and connect the longer one directly to that horizontal hardline, but I think a) the longer hose end doesn't have the right angle so it might kink, and b) there may not be enough slack anyway.



I was thinking of using a regular vice-grips like a hemostat but didn't want to damage the hose... I'll see if I can find a needle-nose one w/ smoother jaws.

I used Vice grips when I installed one on my TT, you won't damage the hose and you can always trim it back a bit anyway. Hell I put a stainless bolt in each hose and a clamp on my TT - I didn't even connect them.

The kit comes with two fittings: a long one for using the OEM cooler and a shorter one for the delete. I can't seem to loosen the OEM threaded nipple though, and it has like two black (plastic?) prongs that stick into the cooler, so hopefully those are removable cause this thermostate plate doesn't have those same holes

I seem to remember tightening my thermo plate down and it took a 24mm wrench on the portion that the filter screwed on to. I thought it would slide off if I took off the nut but I'm not sure. On the TT - it did. I think that plastic parts of part of the cooler so I wouldn't worry too much about them.

BTW, in the photo I posted at the very top, it appears that MarkP has the same cooler, black hose and barbed fittings as I do... Are those fittings supposed to take standard hose clamps or do they just slip-on and stay there? Maybe he just hadn't isntalled them in that photo, but I would think you have to put something, right? My kit didn't come with any so it kind has me confused...

Yeah - you don't "need" clamps with the barbed fittings - but a zip tie or clamp held on lightly won't hurt. I have AN fittings on mine.

[joe@vwvortex]

To answer the PMs I have been getting. I recommend Setrab, Mocal or Earls for the oil coolers. As far as lines Aeroquip, good ridge, earls are rebuttable brands. Their are others, fragola etc. The therm plate pictured is a Earls product. It's on the large side but works perfectly. Much better than the Chinese products. This set up stays closed initially then gradually opens up at 160 degrees to allow oil into the cooler to aide with proper oil pressures at start up and allow the oil to come up to temp. I believe the cooler is on full use at 200. My temps don't go higher than 220 so it's perfect for the oil I use.

Yup - good advice.

This place has both mocal and setrab. You don't have to buy here - but they list a ton of stuff you can maybe find cheaper elsewhere on the net.

Bat Inc

[BITRBO]

^Nice - Helpful as usual joe!

[BITRBO]

Quick update:

So I got the OEM exchanger off last night (what a PITA), and used a 5/8" x 90* barbed plastic fitting to connect the two coolant lines. I decided not to cut the lines incase I need/want to switch back for whatever reason, so there is a little extra line that I just need to tie back. No biggie.

I then removed the factor threaded nipple and installed the USRT one, but it appears this nipple it about 1" too long (once the sandwhich plate is installed) and doesn't have sufficient threads for the filter (picked up a 1.8T filter yesterday). I will have to remove, cut down, and put some more threads on it, but shouldn't be too much of an issue. Furthermore, the hole on the sandwhich plate is much bigger that the threaded nipple, so the plate won't sit centrically over the nipple unless a bushing/sleeve is installed over the nipple. I'm having my pops make a 1" x 0.945" x 0.755" alum. sleeve on his lathe, which will hopefully do the trick.

I also picked up a couple 1/2" dia. nylon padeyes from Boat USA yesteday, and cut them in half so they'll fit over the fan support bar. These and some metal angle plates will be the mounting brackets for the Mocal core (kinda like what MarkP used above). I'll post up some photos when things start coming together...

[joe@vwvortex]

Quick update:

So I got the OEM exchanger off last night (what a PITA), and used a 5/8" x 90* barbed plastic fitting to connect the two coolant lines. I decided not to cut the lines incase I need/want to switch back for whatever reason, so there is a little extra line that I just need to tie back. No biggie.

I then removed the factor threaded nipple and installed the USRT one, but it appears this nipple it about 1" too long (once the sandwhich plate is installed) and doesn't have sufficient threads for the filter (picked up a 1.8T filter yesterday). I will have to remove, cut down, and put some more threads on it, but shouldn't be too much of an issue. Furthermore, the hole on the sandwhich plate is much bigger that the threaded nipple, so the plate won't sit centrically over the nipple unless a bushing/sleeve is installed over the nipple. I'm having my pops make a 1" x 0.945" x 0.755" alum. sleeve on his lathe, which will hopefully do the trick.

I also picked up a couple 1/2" dia. nylon padeyes from Boat USA yesteday, and cut them in half so they'll fit over the fan support bar. These and some metal angle plates will be the mounting brackets for the Mocal core (kinda like what MarkP used above). I'll post up some photos when things start coming together...

How long was the "short" pipe? Should be only about 3/4 inch long and then the fitting that holds the oil filter, which also should be wide enough in the middle to center the plate - screws on to that and it is what affixes the plate to the engine block IIRC. Again - that was on my TT, but can't imagine it would be different on the S4.

Looking at my oil cooler - it is held on at the top only but both lines exit the bottom.

[AudiSportB5S4]

This is temporary of course. Once I get around to it I plan on making brackets to house booth coolers. Increasing the size of the oil cooler and getting rid of the stock oil/water cooler. If you run a large enough air/oil cooler you dont need the water/oil cooler. Your better off keeping the systems separate and letting them take care of themselves.

What IC shrouds are those?

[BITRBO]

How long was the "short" pipe? Should be only about 3/4 inch long and then the fitting that holds the oil filter, which also should be wide enough in the middle to center the plate - screws on to that and it is what affixes the plate to the engine block IIRC. Again - that was on my TT, but can't imagine it would be different on the S4.

Looking at my oil cooler - it is held on at the top only but both lines exit the bottom.

The kit comes with two (2) threaded nipples (and everything else as seen below): a short one (1-1.25" long?) and a longer one that is about 1" shorter than the factory nipple.



I am pretty sure that the shorter nipple is used in conjuntion with that large cap-looking thingy, in case you are running a filter elsewhere. Otherwise it's way too short and doesn't even get close to the face of the sandwich plate, let alone enough to get the filter on. Incidentally, the short threaded sleeve on the cap is bascially what I need to duplicate to keep the sandwich plate centrically positioned over the nipple.

[BITRBO]

This is temporary of course. Once I get around to it I plan on making brackets to house booth coolers. Increasing the size of the oil cooler and getting rid of the stock oil/water cooler. If you run a large enough air/oil cooler you dont need the water/oil cooler. Your better off keeping the systems separate and letting them take care of themselves.

Oh, and regarding this configuration... I tried clocking my sandwich plate around like this (seems to provide the best clearance and hose angles), but the 90* -AN fittings hang REALLY low... I mean, when looking from front to back they're lower than the front sway bar brackets and almost as low as my DTS bar. Unfortunately the next best position has the fittings pointing at 9-0-clock, and make the hose connections at little akward. Might just be safest spot though in case I ever cook a turn and have to go off-roading... Hate to have those suckers shear off and end my weekend early

[joe@vwvortex]

The kit comes with two (2) threaded nipples (and everything else as seen below): a short one (1-1.25" long?) and a longer one that is about 1" shorter than the factory nipple.



I am pretty sure that the shorter nipple is used in conjuntion with that large cap-looking thingy, in case you are running a filter elsewhere. Otherwise it's way too short and doesn't even get close to the face of the sandwich plate, let alone enough to get the filter on. Incidentally, the short threaded sleeve on the cap is bascially what I need to duplicate to keep the sandwich plate centrically positioned over the nipple.

You won't screw the filter onto that though. You should still have the OEM fitting that screwed onto the nipple that was on there with the heat exchanger. Should look like the gold piece on the top right of this plate in the pic.

[*Blue-Angel*]

Correct. Your not using the correct parts. You need an adapter with a 3/4-16 center port size and the correct fitting to attach the therm plate to the block like above that has a screw or washer that clamps it in place. Then their are another set of male threads for the filter to attach to. As far as clocking. Like I said the above picture is certainly not idea however to get the adapter pictured to fit I would have to grind the factory pan/block to clock the adapter in a way that I could re route the hoses. One drive over a rumble strip at the track and my engine is toast.

[BITRBO]

You won't screw the filter onto that though. You should still have the OEM fitting that screwed onto the nipple that was on there with the heat exchanger. Should look like the gold piece on the top right of this plate in the pic.

Nope. The factory exchanger was held in place by a large (24mm IIRC), thin nut screwed down to the main threaded nipple. Then the filter would thread down on top of the remaining length. That gold piece shown above would be perfect, cause I could use the shorter threaded nipple provided the OD and overall length was just right. Otherwise, an alumimum bushing/sleeve will basically do the same thing I think, but I guess we'll see...

Correct. Your not using the correct parts. You need an adapter with a 3/4-16 center port size and the correct fitting to attach the therm plate to the block like above that has a screw or washer that clamps it in place. Then their are another set of male threads for the filter to attach to. As far as clocking. Like I said the above picture is certainly not idea however to get the adapter pictured to fit I would have to grind the factory pan/block to clock the adapter in a way that I could re route the hoses. One drive over a rumble strip at the track and my engine is toast.

Yeah, I thought about grinding off the tabs on the pan/block so I could get the angle just right... Still might do it too.

[joe@vwvortex]

Nope. The factory exchanger was held in place by a large (24mm IIRC), thin nut screwed down to the main threaded nipple. Then the filter would thread down on top of the remaining length. That gold piece shown above would be perfect, cause I could use the shorter threaded nipple provided the OD and overall length was just right. Otherwise, an alumimum bushing/sleeve will basically do the same thing I think, but I guess we'll see...

Interesting. I have to look at mine when I change my oil again. However - i have a plate in place and they might have used one of those fittings along with a longer pipe.

Eitherway - you can order one from Bat inc.

[*Blue-Angel*]

What IC shrouds are those?

ER. Modified by me. Wrapped the outside to keep them protected when removing bumper and when driving the car in general from chaffing and becoming brittle.

[BITRBO]

Interesting. I have to look at mine when I change my oil again. However - i have a plate in place and they might have used one of those fittings along with a longer pipe.

Eitherway - you can order one from Bat inc.

Just did!

[joe@vwvortex]

Just did!

Nice! I need to do this and get the shorter threaded piece. I'll do it next oil change which will be after the next track day.