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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Motor Mount Install Looks Intimidating... Is it really that bad?

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    I'm looking at installing new motor mounts and it looks like everyone recommends the stubby to get the bolts off. Other than this are there any other tips that I should know? Is it possible to really mess anything up when changing these out? I recently replaced my thermostat without issue so I'm working my way up on mechanical proficiency but still feel like a noob compared to some of you on AZ.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Dec 03 2008
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    2018 SQ5
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    The part I feel incompetent about is how you have to jack up your engine in order to get them out. But I agree. More input. I need to do this someday.
    2021 Audi S4, P34 Intake

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Sly Raskal's Avatar
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    Fontana, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by jimrobbington View Post
    But I agree. More input. I need to do this someday.
    Me too. I just bought 034 mounts to be prepared in case my mounts need to be replaced. or if I decide to swap them out sooner.
    -Anil

    2019 A4 Sedan, Nardo Gray, 45TFSI, Prestige Plus, S-Line, Quattro, Black-Optic, PPF, Ceramic Paint Coating, Ceramic Tint, Audi Black Door Handle Kit

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings redfury's Avatar
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    Oct 16 2012
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    1968 plymouth fury 7mgte swap
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    Modesto/California/Central

    ok here you go i just did this its not that hard. left side remove bottom and top nuts lift up moter on left side,( i used a 2x4 on end on the edge on the oip pan where the bolts go into the blockseems like it would be the strongest. install new mount put nut on top lower down into hole carefully you might have to pull or shove to get it into correct hole. tighten bolts next side, right side remove air cleaner remove lower nut jack up right side of motor until you can get your wrench under turbo onto motor mount. remove upper nut remove motor mount install new motor mount tighten top nut drop into hole and tighten lower bolt install air cleaner. done
    05.5 2.0T 6MT quattro/JHM Stage 1 Tune/JHM Solid Shifter/JHM 4:1Center Differential/JHM Stage 1 LWFW and Clutch Kit/JHM FMIC/034 Motor Mounts and Trans Mount/APR Turbo Back Exhaust/APR Carbonio Intake/Enkei RPF1 18x9 et35

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings gdlkn84as's Avatar
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    Apr 25 2012
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    2006 B7 A4 S-line 2.0T (Sold) - 2008 PT Bruiser (Long Story) - 2003 Kawasaki Z1000
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    I did mine a few months ago. I read and read and read, like i do everything else on here, until I was ready to just do it. The stubbies did come in handy, in fact, they were required for me. And yes, I did jack the engine up at the oil pan. Once I got to work, it became pretty easy. I was thinking too hard for a long time about some of it, hope my tips help...

    1. It is completely fine jacking the engine up at the oil pan. Use a piece of wood and floor jack (wood between oil pan and jack) to sloooowwwly jack the engine up. I went about 1½in and still had room to go. However, I have tip, 6MT may be differ! This helped in accessing the bolt next to turbo/heatshield, and is the only reason I jacked the engine.

    2. I found it much, much, much easier to just loosen the sway bar and roll it out of the way to remove the engine mount mounting brackets. Some people say this is not required and I agree, however, I did not feel comfortable jacking my engine up any further so I went this route. If you do not do this way, I believe you will have to jack your engine up, high enough for the bolts to clear each mounting bracket... I didnt want to chance it. the brackets are held in by 3 bolts and very easily removed. One of the bolts wil spin and spin for a long time. Patience, it will come out. You'll be spinning jus as long to put it back in.

    3. I used a ratchet extension with the stubby wrench to break loose the bolt above the turbo. Did the same to tighten. Watch the heatshield, scrapes galore on the fingers!

    4. Mark the indicators (holes that have a lip on one side of the mount) as to where they will be seated on the mounting bracket. Yes, your mounts have to line up properly and it is easy to do so, just mark them where the old ones were.

    5. After install, dont tighten all the way. hand tighten, run engine, give it some gas, kill engine, tighten up, check agiain in about 2 weeks.

    6. Dont forget your snub mount

    7. If youre TIP, just tuck the connector on driverside mount out of the way unless you got some cancelors. Youll only see the error if you run Vagcom or OBDII, its just a soft code

    this is just my .02 but things I wish I knew before starting this job. hope you guys can find them useful. Not too bad of a job. Pass side about 2 hours, driver side 45 mins. Not bad for my first time on the mounts.

    redfury gave me some tips as well! Thanks again dude!
    2006 B7 A4 S-Line 2.0T - SOLD

    -Making my return to the 'Zine-
    2016 B8.5 Allroad
    PP+, Sport Interior, DS, VAG'd
    2003 Kawasaki Z1000

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings DJ SB's Avatar
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    Aug 13 2012
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    Los Angeles

    I did this recently on my 6mt and it wasn't bad. I did drop the sway bar and the stubby was required to access the mount bolts. I did one side at a time and jacked the engine up enough to remove the mounts. It's a little time consuming but not too hard.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings konarider94's Avatar
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    dont take out the airbox. Im not sure how that helps you at all. The passenger engine mount is under the turbo. I had to do everything from under the car on the passenger side. The top nut is a breeze on the driver side with 3 feet of extensions
    2018 A5 S-Line Manual

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Boonies VA

    Quote Originally Posted by gdlkn84as View Post
    2. I found it much, much, much easier to just loosen the sway bar and roll it out of the way to remove the engine mount mounting brackets. Some people say this is not required and I agree, however, I did not feel comfortable jacking my engine up any further so I went this route. If you do not do this way, I believe you will have to jack your engine up, high enough for the bolts to clear each mounting bracket... I didnt want to chance it. the brackets are held in by 3 bolts and very easily removed. One of the bolts wil spin and spin for a long time. Patience, it will come out. You'll be spinning jus as long to put it back in.
    This is how I did it, I started jacking up the engine, but the whole car started lifting and I did not have enough room to get the mounts out. So I dropped the brackets from the bottom, much easier. Overall its a pretty easy job, the hardest piece is the top nut on the passengers side.
    White Wagon

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings DoThisMyWay's Avatar
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    B9Q5
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    My only advice, get the cursing and swearing out of the way by doing the passenger side first. The drivers side is a breeze.

    It's not that difficult. If you can replace the Tstat, you can replace mounts.
    Current:
    2024|A5 SB PP+ S-line, 2019|Q5

    Previous:
    2017|S3, 2016|A4 2.0T Quattro, 2006|A4 Avant 2.0T Quattro S-line, 2005|A4 3.0 Quattro UltraSport

  10. #10
    Registered User Four Rings Hugh@EuropaParts's Avatar
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    Aug 22 2010
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    Piscataway, NJ

    Quote Originally Posted by DoThisMyWay View Post
    My only advice, get the cursing and swearing out of the way by doing the passenger side first. The drivers side is a breeze.

    It's not that difficult. If you can replace the Tstat, you can replace mounts.
    Made me think of...



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  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings redfury's Avatar
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    1968 plymouth fury 7mgte swap
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider94 View Post
    dont take out the airbox. Im not sure how that helps you at all. The passenger engine mount is under the turbo. I had to do everything from under the car on the passenger side. The top nut is a breeze on the driver side with 3 feet of extensions

    The reason i took the air box out was because you can get a normal ratchet wrench on the top bolt of the mount when you lift it up. After that its easy.
    05.5 2.0T 6MT quattro/JHM Stage 1 Tune/JHM Solid Shifter/JHM 4:1Center Differential/JHM Stage 1 LWFW and Clutch Kit/JHM FMIC/034 Motor Mounts and Trans Mount/APR Turbo Back Exhaust/APR Carbonio Intake/Enkei RPF1 18x9 et35

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings konarider94's Avatar
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    did you rip off the heat shield?
    2018 A5 S-Line Manual

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    When replacing the mounts are you guys putting your car on jack stands or ramps? The B6 DIY mentioned using ramps but I can't see any ramps in the pictures.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings DoThisMyWay's Avatar
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    I used stands.
    Current:
    2024|A5 SB PP+ S-line, 2019|Q5

    Previous:
    2017|S3, 2016|A4 2.0T Quattro, 2006|A4 Avant 2.0T Quattro S-line, 2005|A4 3.0 Quattro UltraSport

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings gdlkn84as's Avatar
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    2006 B7 A4 S-line 2.0T (Sold) - 2008 PT Bruiser (Long Story) - 2003 Kawasaki Z1000
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    I used jacks stands. just watch your level if you jack the engine up at the oil pan. You dont want to lift your car off the stands or ramps. Never work on car only supported by a jack, even if you have stands there to catch. I could jack up my engine a few inches before the car began to lift. Just pay attention and be safe!
    2006 B7 A4 S-Line 2.0T - SOLD

    -Making my return to the 'Zine-
    2016 B8.5 Allroad
    PP+, Sport Interior, DS, VAG'd
    2003 Kawasaki Z1000

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings konarider94's Avatar
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    i use ramps
    2018 A5 S-Line Manual

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings TFSI's Avatar
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    Some car
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    MD

    I used ramps then jacked up the engine with floor jack.

    Put 2-3" of wood between the point of contact when jacking up the engine to prevent damage.

    I'm sure many people noticed that 034 motormounts have a bit longer thread, so it's kinda tricky to put it back in.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings FraggyA4's Avatar
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    Mar 03 2012
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    Jeep Comanche
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    Thief River Falls, MN

    I cut a slit in the heat sheat and folded it back, this made it a lot simpler getting to the top nut. After I was done I folded the heat shield back in place.
    -Chadwick

    FULLY BUILT ENGINE!

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings bman005's Avatar
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    2015 Silverado, 2012 A4 Avant. Former; 90 Corrado, 97 Golf, 05.5 A4, 2010 Tiguan
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    Did mine on my lift at work over lunch. Super easy, had time left over to eat & take a shit
    New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings redfury's Avatar
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    1968 plymouth fury 7mgte swap
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    Quote Originally Posted by konarider94 View Post
    did you rip off the heat shield?
    nope i just slid the wrench underneath the turbo. after i jacked it up enough you could see the mount from the top. and i put it on jack stands.

    hey gldlkn84as were you able to lift yours up high enough to slide your wrench in, or did you go from the bottom. i know i told you i did it that way, cant remember if you did or not though
    05.5 2.0T 6MT quattro/JHM Stage 1 Tune/JHM Solid Shifter/JHM 4:1Center Differential/JHM Stage 1 LWFW and Clutch Kit/JHM FMIC/034 Motor Mounts and Trans Mount/APR Turbo Back Exhaust/APR Carbonio Intake/Enkei RPF1 18x9 et35

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Lensch09's Avatar
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    Feb 20 2004
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    2022 B9 RS5 SB, 21 Rav4 Hybrid, some golf clubs
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    Santa Clara, California

    45 minute job on the hoist while hungover on a Saturday. I cut the stock mounts off with a torch...like a boss.
    -Dan
    2022 RS5 Sportback - Navarra Blue

    Previously:
    2016 Audi S4 Prestige with tons of boltons -Build Thread - http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...016-S4-Ordered!
    2007 Audi A4 S-line Ti APR GT2871R
    1999 Audi A4 Avant (S4 replica)
    2000 Audi S4 Sedan (Stage III)
    1999.5 Audi A4 1.8TQM Sport (bolt-ons)

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoThisMyWay View Post
    If you can replace the Tstat, you can replace mounts.
    x2

    034 SD, ramps, wood under oil pan, flex stubby ratchet wrench is absolutely required. It is a little tricky persuading the mounts in and out due to the length of the studs.

    After getting the new mounts in I did a cruise then came back and tightened the motor and snub mount nuts.
    2007 2.0T Q 6MT, S-Line, Ti Package, BB
    Revo Stage 2 | JHM Stage 1 Clutch | K&N Drop in | APR HPFP | 034 HFC | AWE Catback | 034 SD Tranny & Motor Mounts | Neuspeed Snub | H&R Sport Springs | Bilsteins | Moog ACA | B5 Perches (removed) | RS4 RSB | ABT Drilled n Slotted Rotors | Redstuff Front & Akebono Rear | Podi Stepper Boost Gauge | Recaro's | H&R Spacers 15f/20r | Clear Corners w/Blackout | Smoked Frt Markers | Cupra R Lip | 20% Tint

  23. #23
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    May 13 2012
    AZ Member #
    93460
    Location
    CO

    I need to replace mine as well, the passenger side mount is blown. But I haven't been able to decide if I want to go with Track or Street density. Does anyone have some input on that subject?

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings DoThisMyWay's Avatar
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    Aug 24 2004
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    B9Q5
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    Honolulu, HI

    I have street and they're perfect for normal day to day driving.
    Current:
    2024|A5 SB PP+ S-line, 2019|Q5

    Previous:
    2017|S3, 2016|A4 2.0T Quattro, 2006|A4 Avant 2.0T Quattro S-line, 2005|A4 3.0 Quattro UltraSport

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Three Rings gdlkn84as's Avatar
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    2006 B7 A4 S-line 2.0T (Sold) - 2008 PT Bruiser (Long Story) - 2003 Kawasaki Z1000
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    Greenwood, IN

    Re: Motor Mount Install Looks Intimidating... Is it really that bad?

    Quote Originally Posted by redfury View Post
    nope i just slid the wrench underneath the turbo. after i jacked it up enough you could see the mount from the top. and i put it on jack stands.

    hey gldlkn84as were you able to lift yours up high enough to slide your wrench in, or did you go from the bottom. i know i told you i did it that way, cant remember if you did or not though
    Yes, no more than 2 inches is all I went. It gave me enough room to slide the stubby over the bolt. When we were tightening it back down, I had to have someone help guide the nut and wrench on the bolt from underneath. made it so easy!!!

    Sent from my B7 using Tapatalk 2
    2006 B7 A4 S-Line 2.0T - SOLD

    -Making my return to the 'Zine-
    2016 B8.5 Allroad
    PP+, Sport Interior, DS, VAG'd
    2003 Kawasaki Z1000

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