Does any have a good DIY for cylinder head removal?

[Blue AWD]

Like the title states. Any tips or links to a good DIY? Thanks.

[1gcrazy]

In or out of the car?

[rtl5009]

Remove valve cover. Remove timing belt. Remove turbo to manifold bolts. Remove rear coolant hard pipe.

Buy vag poly drive.

Remove head bolts. Lift head.

[naudlee]

& remember: torx is not a suitable replacement for a poly drive bit... do not strip out your headbolts or you will be sorry!

[julex]

There is also bunch of other obvious stuff you need off like metal th covers and one hidden spacial bolt on driver side that mounts front water pipe to the head.... Other than that have fun.

[1gcrazy]

Remove valve cover. Remove timing belt. Remove turbo to manifold bolts. Remove rear coolant hard pipe.

Buy vag poly drive.

Remove head bolts. Lift head.

Zackly...

& remember: torx is not a suitable replacement for a poly drive bit... do not strip out your headbolts or you will be sorry!

PSh yeah you will be. Getting them off with the poly drive is still a bit of a chore.

[calundeen]

I would never pull a head off without pulling the engine.

[rtl5009]

I would never pull a head off without pulling the engine.

Why?

[haggard69er]

is it a 9 or 10mm poly drive?

[julex]

10mm but be wary... some ebay ones are too short to reach end bolts hiding inside he bridges/bearings.

The hard part is getting the turbo manifold bolts, if you can take them out, everything else is super simple.

[jibberjive]

The hard part is getting the turbo manifold bolts, if you can take them out, everything else is super simple.

A 13mm ratcheting flex-head wrench was a blessing for me with the *manifold bolts (moreso putting on aftermarket manifolds. I don't remember getting stock ones off being particularly difficult, but if they are difficult for some reason, the flex-head wrench would likely be awesome with that as well.)

[1gcrazy]

I would never pull a head off without pulling the engine.

Why?

I didn't realize how "taboo" this was to the s4 community. Not only did I do my own motor but just recently did my buddies A6 which seemed like a bigger pita due to a plate that was right near the bolts. Still got em though. Seems like a bit of brainwash honestly. It's really not as bad as anyone thinks. I can see, though, that anyone with " enogh money" to own an Audi would want to pay for the process. Personally I just don't trust anyone to work on my car, no matter how much money is involved.

[themadscientist]

Ring up your local snap on truck and buy their poly drive. One of the best $50 tools you'l ever use.

Doing the heads in car isn't too bad. Depending on the work I prefer to yank the engine though. It's only an extra 30 mins of work to have it out in the open.

[1gcrazy]

Ring up your local snap on truck and buy their poly drive. One of the best $50 tools you'l ever use.

Doing the heads in car isn't too bad. Depending on the work I prefer to yank the engine though. It's only an extra 30 mins of work to have it out in the open.

On my personal car, I actually pulled the head first, assessed the damage, put 4 head opts back in and had to yank the motor. Pulling the head was literally a cakewalk. I could pull the head 5 times in the same time I pulled just one head. Sorry but it just really depends on what needs done IMHO. Low compression? Pull both heads and the oil pan and rering(if the strut towers allow it). Only time I would pull it is if the crank had issues.

[julex]

I could pull the head 5 times in the same time I pulled just one head.

[rtl5009]

On my personal car, I actually pulled the head first, assessed the damage, put 4 head opts back in and had to yank the motor. Pulling the head was literally a cakewalk. I could pull the head 5 times in the same time I pulled just one head. Sorry but it just really depends on what needs done IMHO. Low compression? Pull both heads and the oil pan and rering(if the strut towers allow it). Only time I would pull it is if the crank had issues.

The upper oil pan is a bitch to remove in car. I'd just pull the motor.

[calundeen]

Why?

The bottom manifold bolts.

The engine can be pulled so fast anyways for someone who knows what there doing. 3 hours and you have it sitting on a rolling cart instead of messing around trying to get stupid ass studs out of the manifold. makes is a much easier job and lowers your chances of mistakes when putting the head back on.



And the upper oil pan isnt nearly as bad as removing a head while in the car.
I did mine while in the car.

[air_forced]

Why pay $50?

http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=156

[calundeen]

Why pay $50?

http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=156

Because you get exactly what you pay for typically with tools.

[julex]

chinese head bolt sockets are actually pretty good. I have a couple in my drawer and they held just fine.

[1gcrazy]

Just goto bap geon they sell them for like 27 bucks an they usually carry one in stock.

[Monty23]

I just bought the polydrive from ECS for like $25. I had it in like a day or 2 after ordering it.

[jibberjive]

I haven't had any issues with my Chinese polydrive either.

[themadscientist]

Why pay $50?

http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=156

I use it very frequently. For the typical garage warrior, the Chinese one might be ok, but I would wear it out in 6 months, and rounded polydrives are no fun.

The reason I'll spend good money on tools is so I don't ever have to worry about buying one again, or having down time from a broken tool. Also, Snap On stuff doesn't really depreciate in value the way cheap tools do. Who wants to buy used chinese tools? Nobody in their right mind. Who wants to buy used snap on toos? A lot of people, including me.

[themadscientist]

On my personal car, I actually pulled the head first, assessed the damage, put 4 head opts back in and had to yank the motor. Pulling the head was literally a cakewalk. I could pull the head 5 times in the same time I pulled just one head. Sorry but it just really depends on what needs done IMHO. Low compression? Pull both heads and the oil pan and rering(if the strut towers allow it). Only time I would pull it is if the crank had issues.

I guess we just jive a little different. It's just too easy for me to pull a 2.7t these days. My back doesn't like leaning over an engine bay for hours, either. I'd rather yank it and set it on my bench so I can work on it while sitting or standing up, using all of my cordless tools to zip off fasteners.

[1gcrazy]

I guess we just jive a little different. It's just too easy for me to pull a 2.7t these days. My back doesn't like leaning over an engine bay for hours, either. I'd rather yank it and set it on my bench so I can work on it while sitting or standing up, using all of my cordless tools to zip off fasteners.

Understandable. Pulling the 2.7t isn't as easy for me I guess. Cuddling the front knuckles while trying to get the axles bolts is just the worst. Plus dicking around with the exhaust and center drive shaft. Just would rather work in a tight bay and do less work even if it takes me a few more minutes per step. Wish I were fast at pulling the motor though....