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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    In massive need of electric help!! J519/CECM/8E0 907 279

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    Hello all,

    So I parked the car outside one night in the rain and later that night I noticed the sidemarker lights were on. I went outside and long story short, my ECU box/lid was cracked and water leaked in and the Central Electrical Control Module [CECM/J519] got water in it and shorted out and started smoking; in fact, when I took it out drops of water came out of it. I took it out and I got another one. I put in the new one but I couldn't VAG it because of the 'too many communications...' error. I checked the wires going into the unit and sure enough 1 of them was stripped to the wire...all of the insulation melted off. I quickly disconnected the new one.

    Now, I'm having so much trouble tracing where this wire goes! It's from the middle connector that has 23 pins, and the wire that's burnt is pin #20. I got under the steering column and managed to trace the wire a bit but it's so packed in there it's not even funny. I'm stressing out just thinking of how much it would cost to take the car to a 'mechanic' or the stealership...

    I have to go to the States this Friday and this isn't exactly very convenient, not that anyone cares, but I'm willing to rip out the entire dash/interior if I know where this wire goes so I can replace it or, more than likely, find out a whole bunch of other components that have been fried as well (-_-)

    So...does anybody have any friendly tips/suggestions/ideas/etc that they would like to share? Perhaps the pin-out for the J519/CECM? I would be extremely grateful! I really have done my research and it seems no one has had this problem to the extent of wires burning off before.

    notes: I vag'd HVAC and I'm getting 1 error: j519 no communication...if that's important.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Can anyone help me out?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    I'm trying to help but I don't know the details of your car (year, sedan/avant/cabrio, engine, etc).

    Also, I don't think there is a "23 pin connector" on the CCM. I'm seeing a 20 pin connector or a 30 (or so) pin connector. Perhaps a photo would help.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Sorry about the lack of details...

    2004 Audi A4 1.8T 6spd manual with APR1 tune

    This is the J519/CECM Module/8E0 907 279 F
    The vertical connector in the middle is what I'm talking about


    This is the connector that connects to the module, in the vertical slot in the middle, as I stated in the earlier picture.
    I'm counting 23 pins...and it says "23" as the last pin.


    And just for fun, this was my old J519 module... :'(

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Yeah it's identical, no worries there. Before I even put the new one in, the wire burnt off of the harness...so yeah. Some people switch from E to F for the coming home feature or whatever, but I'm not worried about that yet, I can't even get Vag to talk to '09'. I'm assuming a short at this point..?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings MikTip's Avatar
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    Probably the burnt wire....can you get wiring diagrams for your car?

    Access to the factory repair manual(robert bentley?

    You will need to repair/replace all burnt wires before the j519 will work properly....

    Check your fuses too!

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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    That will be the T23/20 connection, I will look it up in the Bentley.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    I've been looking for the wiring diagram and no luck so far. I see you posted a link to a .PDF and THANK-YOU!! I will look at it tonight. I've been so busy the past 2 weeks and the car's been sitting since, nor have I had time to look on AZ. I gotta get on this because snow is coming, hopefully.

    Thank-you again for your replies! You have no idea how much I appreciate this!

    I do NOT have a Bentley manual, unfortunately, yes I know, I should get one, I've been told :(

    It looks like I have to rip out the entire interior to get to where the wire goes because it goes up above the steering column, behind the odometer/cluster/display and into the bowels of the car. :(

    To diagnosticator: The T23/20 connection meaning the plug of wires that connects into the J519?

    Sidenote: I spoke with the main technician at Audi [incredibly nice gentleman] and from the symptoms I described he said he's willing to bet it's a short because when I tap the brakes or turn the lights on they work for a split second, then turn off. He said this was the J519 shutting off because it detects the short somewhere.

    So, so far everything is pointing in the same direction: I have to take out the interior and see where this burnt wire leads to!

    Again, thank-you everyone very much for your input!! :) Although I'm working alone on this one, it feels like I have some support lol

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    From that PDF I found T23/20 off the J519, and it says it connects to #135: "Ground connection -2-, in instrument panel wiring harness". So theoretically, this is just a ground wire? So theoretically, I could connects the T23/20 wire to a ground and it 'should' work?

    I wish I knew where this wire actually lead to... :(

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stelvio View Post
    From that PDF I found T23/20 off the J519, and it says it connects to #135: "Ground connection -2-, in instrument panel wiring harness". So theoretically, this is just a ground wire? So theoretically, I could connects the T23/20 wire to a ground and it 'should' work?

    I wish I knew where this wire actually lead to... :(
    Yes that is correct. You don't need to take the interior apart, just run a new ground wire from the T23/20 terminal in the connector to the chassis ground connection under the dash. There is a multiple spade terminal ground connection under the dash mounted to the body sheet metal at the left end of the dash panel, above the fuse panel. Get a repair wire that has the same terminal needed at T23/20 already crimped onto the repair wire, splice enough extra wire onto the repair lead, and crimp a .250" wide female spade terminal on the opposite end, then remove the original terminal and insert the repair wire terminal into the connector at T23/20, run the wire up to the ground connection point and connect the female spade terminal to one of the empty male spade terminals at the ground point. The ground point is a round shaped copper part with several male spade terminals for connecting wires to ground.
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 01-28-2013 at 03:54 PM.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    That is awesome news! Thank-you so much! I bought the parts and I plan on doing this tonight :) I just hope the wire didn't fuse to other wires somewhere between the ECM and taillight...

    A couple clarifications though:
    Is it the right or left taillight, do you know?
    So I connect the T23/20 terminal from the connector to a ground. Then I connect whichever taillight ground wire was supposed to connect to the J519, to a ground somewhere in the trunk or wherever appropriate?

    I ask because this part confuses me:
    "Repair the shorted wire to the tail light the same way, just run a new wire outside of the wiring harness from the J519 module back to the tail light."

    This is what I understood, if I am mistaken I apologize.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Disregard any mention of a shorted tail light. I was thinking of someone else and their problem. Just replace the burnt ground wire at T23/20. Run the new wire, and clip off the old burned wire. Since the burned wire connects to ground, you don't need to remove the wire, just clip off as much of the wire than you can get to.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Lol alright no worries. So my meek attempt at a diagram is correct?

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    The first of the second pair of diagrams is correct. The wire starting at T23/20 connect to the ground point under the dash.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Just a little update:

    I connected the T23/20 pin to a ground near the footwell-area.
    I plugged in the J519 and the headlights, signals, wipers, etc work.
    The rear brake lights do not. So I'm assuming I have to find the taillight wire(s?) that connected to the T23/20 pin and ground them in the rear of the car...I hope.

    Diagnosticator is the man!

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Can you scan the CECM for fault codes? The T23/20 circuit is only a ground circuit, it does not have anything to do with the brake or tail lights. At the CECM, T23/12 is the left brake light, T23/10 is the right brake light. T23/14 is the high mount brake light. What is the model year of your A4? Since the T23/20 ground wire was burned, it was due to the water shorting the CECM. The brake light circuit between the terminals above, and chassis ground, via the brake light sockets in the tail lights must be checked for continuity between the CECM connector T23 and chassis ground, the high mount brake light circuit needs to be checked for continuity as well. To test continuity, use a DMM set on Ohms, then disconnect the T23 connector from the CECM, place a test probe on the back side of the terminal, and place the other test lead on a metal bolt head or similar that threads into the chassis, for connection to chassis ground, Read the DVM display for the resistance in Ohms, between the T23 terminal, and chassis ground. Do this for both brake lights and the high mount brake light. For the Right and Left brake lights, the resistance shown on the DVM display will be the sum of the wire resistance, and the bulb filament resistance. Post back your readings in Ohms. It would be very helpful if you can scan the CECM 09, for fault codes. IF the measured resistance values are infinite high Ohms, (open circuit,) then the brake light bulbs are likely burned out, or the wiring to the brake light sockets in the tail lights is faulty or the ground connection from the bulb socket to chassis ground is faulty. Unfortunately, it is most likely the CECM is faulty. Is there a warning on the instrument cluster bulb check system reporting all three brake lights are not working? Finally, the new CECM must be soft coded using the same soft code as was set in the original CECM, using VCDS, but the CECM coding does not effect the brake lights.
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 01-29-2013 at 12:15 AM.
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Okay for some reason when I plugged the CECM in, the parking lights stayed on. I turned the key on all the way [without starting it] and after taking the key out, the lights went out. I didn't secure the ground from the T23/20 properly while the CECM was plugged in so maybe it had to reset or something...I don't know. But they work now. However...

    The front fogs/parking lights go on automatically [I'm assuming the J519 I got was coded with DRL's] but when the headlights are on, none of the fog lights work...the front or the back :/ I should mention the J519 hasn't been coded yet, so that might also be important. I can't find my vag cable because I just moved and everything's all over the place, but that's what I'll be doing tomorrow [today]!

    Year: 2004

    EDIT: the brake lights and taillights all work great now. All connections are secure.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    That is good news! Please update after you find your VDCS cable.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings stelvio's Avatar
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    Okay so I managed to get everything working!

    I went into adaption channel 81 and typed in: "46992" and saved it, to code the CECM to the car.

    Turns out the reason my fogs weren't working was because I had previously done that 'city fog mod' thing where you can use your fogs independently from your headlights, and as I was doing stuff the wires got loose and I just re-clamped that and all is well!! :)

    I ran the T23/20 connection to a proper ground and it works without any issues now!

    Thanks again for everyone's help :)

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Congratulations! Well done!
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  22. #22
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Cecm T32b connecter partially melted!

    Hi I'm faced with a similar problem caused by flooding of the footwell. The T32b connecter is melted from pin 1 to 5 and pin 17 to 21. The problems initially started with slow moving wipers then finally the horn activating by itself before melting the connector. I tested ground 176 and 179 today and the seem fine. Unfortunately I don't have VCDS yet so I'm relying on my multimeter to solve this one. Any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loco View Post
    Hi I'm faced with a similar problem caused by flooding of the footwell. The T32b connecter is melted from pin 1 to 5 and pin 17 to 21. The problems initially started with slow moving wipers then finally the horn activating by itself before melting the connector. I tested ground 176 and 179 today and the seem fine. Unfortunately I don't have VCDS yet so I'm relying on my multimeter to solve this one. Any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance.
    Yeah, all the faulty functioning items are controlled by the CECM. Sounds like you will need to repair the wiring harness, replace the harness connector T32b, and use repair wires to replace any burned wire going into the CECM. Cut back the burned wires and crimp on the repair wires into a new T32b. Also replace the CECM
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  24. #24
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Thanks for the reply the strange thing is none of the wires seem to have melted just the t32b connector and the affected pins on the cecm. I checked relay 3 and 6 today and they seem ok. Is it possible to completely remove the affected t32b connector right back to the ECM/ relay panel or is cutting/crimping my only option?

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quick question regarding T23/10 and 12
    Is T23 the connector and 10 and 12 are the PIN numbers/location of the wire? Pertaining to left and right brake lights

    I just came across this post while trying to figure out how to get my passenger brake light working again. (Bulb and bulb holder are known to be good)

    I have had water intrusion through the ecu box seal years ago but have never had any electrical troubles until this past year being that my passenger brake light is not working

    The J519 does not control any interior lights or door functions correct?

    I also have an issue where my interior dome lights do not come on when any door is opened. But the dash recognizes a door is open and the floor and puddle lights come on when a door is open.

    Slightly curious if these are related, but I thought the interior lights are controlled by the CCM, just thought I’d ask

    Brake light is priority number 1

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