Amber delete help

[dlev91]

Hey all

I think we all agree that the amber on the outside parts on the headlights is a below average feature of our cars. I would love to figure out a more cost effective way to get rid of it rather than going out and buying e-codes. I've seen some take the head light apart and wrap the amber part in a silver carbon wrap, but that was just one.

Can you guys give me some suggestions/examples of ways to get rid of the amber?
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[sirpickles]

the only other option is to buy some vinyl and put it on top. You can find kits on ebay.

[phillips2024]

Take apart the lights and wrap or plastidip the amber

The vinyl overlay looks very cheap imo

[SteveYem]

I took mine apart, removed the reflectors and sprayed them with four (4) coats of VHT Niteshades spray tint. They appear black in ambient light, yet some of the amber still shines through when under direct bright light. Meanwhile the side marker lights still shine through at night, for safety. Cost me 6 hours of my life on a weekend, and part of a $10 can of Niteshades.

Here are some pics of how it turned out:







Or, you can buy E-code housings from this place on eBay. They appear to be legit. You get the housings with projectors, wiring and LED strips, but you would have to transfer over your existing bulbs and ballasts. A good bit cheaper than buying complete E-Codes with all the electronics and bulbs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Audi-A4...60909747119%26

[dropshadow]

It can be done in a half hour. You don't even need to remove the bumper.

Headlights out:


Lenses removed:


Markers painted:


Back on the car:

[SteveYem]

^ Half an hour? I dunno....took me at least 20 minutes to remove the headlights from the car, due to a couple of the screws holding the headlight housings being semi buried. I ended up removing the intake to get to one of the bottom screws on the passenger side. Then it took me a while to separate the lenses from the housings using my heat gun, and then 4 coats of Niteshades at 30 minutes between coats.

NOTICE: Do NOT touch any part of the inside of the headlights. Wear powder-free latex gloves to avoid getting fingerprints anywhere.
If you do happen to get a fingerprint or smudge on the chrome "eyebrow" parts, DO NOT clean with rubbing alcohol or any other solvent. It will strip the chrome plating right off. Learned this one the hard way.

[staticuxo]

i've done this twice on my B7's.. but for some reason i'm much more hesitant to do it on my B8! i need to do it soon, especially on a black car.

[jlaudio]

removing the lense and regluing it makes me nervous. i've had too many condensation issues on previous audi's to attempt to CC mod the lights.
plus i want e-codes anyway
it does look spectacular though

[JRunior]

+1 on painting!

I went with an amber delete, chrome delete, lens swap, and a color matched bezel

[dropshadow]

^ Half an hour? I dunno....

It's quicker when you're friends with an experienced body tech.

[sirpickles]

looks cool and different but I love the chrome inside there too much to remove!

[thedollardoctor]

I plan to do this VERY SOON with my Ice Silver S4! I want to vinyl wrap the amber corners in silver to match the car. Saw this on here somewhere on another silver S owners car and it looked sick!

I have pulled apart and painted or modded several different sets of healights, it's not that difficult AT ALL and so worth saving the $850 for ecodes IMO.

[Hsiang]

anyone did this on a B8.5?

[FatalBert]

It can be done in a half hour. You don't even need to remove the bumper.

What adhesive did you use to reseal?

+1 on painting!

I went with an amber delete, chrome delete, lens swap, and a color matched bezel

Did you do it yourself or have it done by someone?

[SteveYem]

What adhesive did you use to reseal?

When you separate the lens from the housing, most of the original black sealant stays in the "groove" where the lens fits into the housing. Some of it will stick to the lens, which you should peel/roll off and jam back into the groove in the housing (wherever you see sealant missing). When you're finished your modification and ready to put the lens back on, press the lens back into its mating groove and use your heat gun to re-melt the sealant, and keep pressing the lens back onto the housing. If you do a good job heating up the sealant all around, you should create a good seal. To be safe, after it cooled I also ran a healthy bead of silicone RTV sealant (auto / marine grade stuff purchased from Home Depot....nothing special) around the joint between the lens and the housing. It doesn't look pretty, but none of that is visible until you pop the hood and can see the top side of the headlight housings. One month and many 100% humidity days later, I have no signs of moisture inside my housings.

As for JRunior, I believe he got his done at Lightwerkz in New Jersey.

[Akrion]

You can do what I call ti-code :) like this:

[SteveYem]

Looks great ^

BTW which wheels are they, size, offset, etc.

Wish I had bought a white one haha

[Akrion]

looks great ^

btw which wheels are they, size, offset, etc.

Wish i had bought a white one haha

morr vs8.2 19" +35

[dropshadow]

What adhesive did you use to reseal?

Same stuff the factory uses.

[Akrion]

Same stuff the factory uses.

Let me make this little more helpful for Fatal ...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o06_s00_i00

[dropshadow]

You can do what I call ti-code :) like this:

Is that carbon fiber or silver cf or what? In the first pic it looks like cf wrap, but the lighting in the second makes it look like silver cf. Looks good either way. Not many colors could pull that off so well.

[Akrion]

Its a 3M carbon fiber wrap ... in real world it looks almost like the TI package wheels (the grey part of them)

You can see it better here (I think)

[JRunior]

When you separate the lens from the housing, most of the original black sealant stays in the "groove" where the lens fits into the housing. Some of it will stick to the lens, which you should peel/roll off and jam back into the groove in the housing (wherever you see sealant missing). When you're finished your modification and ready to put the lens back on, press the lens back into its mating groove and use your heat gun to re-melt the sealant, and keep pressing the lens back onto the housing. If you do a good job heating up the sealant all around, you should create a good seal. To be safe, after it cooled I also ran a healthy bead of silicone RTV sealant (auto / marine grade stuff purchased from Home Depot....nothing special) around the joint between the lens and the housing. It doesn't look pretty, but none of that is visible until you pop the hood and can see the top side of the headlight housings. One month and many 100% humidity days later, I have no signs of moisture inside my housings.

As for JRunior, I believe he got his done at Lightwerkz in New Jersey.

LightWerkz, reseals with additional OEM Koito sealant. Here is a direct link

http://shop.lightwerkz.net/Koito-Butyl-Rubber-Sealer

They carry both gray and black sealant