Highest mileage 1.8T B6?

[ENV²]

Please post your mileages I am looking to get an idea of how long these things can last.

138k 2 previous owners 1.8T Automatic quattro is what I have

[CyberPMG]

I'm the second owner for my 2004 A4 1.8T quattro USP. Bought it first week of January 2005 with 28k miles on it. It currently has 237k miles on it. The engine gave out due to a bad oil pump. New engine is in, so I should be able to get many more miles out of it.

[zer0cool]

I have a late 2004 A4 Avant 1.8T Sline with 192K miles on it.

It has had a hell of a lot of work on it, with most parts being replaced at some point through its life. And luckily it has a full service history with the vast majority being at Audi main dealers.

Not looking to keep it for more than a couple of years, but needed a cheap, nice, large estate car and this fit the bill.

I recon the turbo is on its last legs, hopefully it will hold out for just a little longer!!!!

[jubei4769]

dang you guys drive alot, my 03 only has 86k

[MikeWire]

160,xxx on mine.

Daily driver.

[Matt Devo]

'02 1.8T, original owner, 191k miles. original/stock block/head

[BesI]

About to turn 104k daily driver too.

[iamshayan]

275,000 Kilometers
170,000 Miles
Daily.
2nd tranny
2nd steering rack,
2nd turbo,

would be surprised if the motor makes it to 2013.

[agart]

'02 with 145k, daily driven.

[old guy]

'03. One owner. 170k mikes. Daily driver. Runs like new (Actually better than new)

[ENV²]

Are bad oil pumps known on these? Do they have mileage interval that they should be changed and is it a simple DIY?

[gottaBdope]

4th owner, daily driver, had it a year, 57k mi on it, has the problems of high triple digit cars, lol.

[MNAudi101]

169k 2nd owner, not a single issue

[B72011]

I'm curious--how many of you >150K B6 owners have an orig. unrepaired Tiptronic trans? My B7 got to 80K before its Tiptronic startwed failing. I am wondering if I should try to keep our B6 Avant for the long haul (currently at 96K) would like to keep until 200K or so, or if we should bounce out?
As for the orig question--there's a guy on Audiforums.com who has a B5 at over 400K miles!!!!!! Holy smokes!

169k 2nd owner, not a single issue

[MNAudi101]

I'm curious--how many of you >150K B6 owners have an orig. unrepaired Tiptronic trans? My B7 got to 80K before its Tiptronic startwed failing. I am wondering if I should try to keep our B6 Avant for the long haul (currently at 96K) would like to keep until 200K or so, or if we should bounce out?
As for the orig question--there's a guy on Audiforums.com who has a B5 at over 400K miles!!!!!! Holy smokes!

I am on the original Tip Trans. The T-belt and water pump were replaced at 96,000 and now I am at 169k will do a timing belt around 195-200k and then start looking for something else. I hope to get all 4 years of college with mine which I am a freshman now

[b6Hate4]

145k. Daily driven. Turbo upgrade within the next 3 months.

[MikeWire]

I changed the fluid and filter @ 119K.

Mine was/is fine @ ~155K when I swapped in a 5 speed trans and the drive train. The only reason I did a 5 speed swap was to keep it longer and I prefer to have 3 pedals. Other than that the tiptroinc always ran great, even with a Revo stage 2 tune and all the supporting mods.

[iamshayan]

my car VS Old Guys' car is a perfect example of how preventative maintenance and service history can make a big difference.

[SourCream]

Body is just under 150K miles. A lot of body work have been done so it almost looks like fresh from factory.

The engine just have been changed for a 60K one last spring (the previous owner did, if it was me, I would choose the newer generation of 1.8T instead with the 6spd tranny..). All the stuff around is new: injectors, filters, T-belt, sensors, tie-rods, etc. I got my bunch of problems last summer, now it's running perfect!

The interior wasn't looking good anymore, I found an S4 interior for cheap, a B7 steering and a new radio because all the buttons were looking like crap.

Things on the to-do-list: glovebox (classic!) and the armrest.

[Charlie240sxt]

99k now daily driver just regular maintenance items(timing belt,water pump,J plug,rear coolant flange,thermostat+housing)

[Valve_Cover]

232k kms, so roughly 145k miles.
Still original turbo, engine, clutch, tranny, diff, and lots a other parts :P
I'm waiting on the turbo to go out to rip into it and change a bunch of stuff but these cars actually seem to get MORE reliable as they age haha!

[ggcrash]

02, 1 owner, 206k...Still going strong, then again, I drive like I'm "driving Ms Daisy"....trying to hold out until early 2014 for a new 4 series BMW coupe, or S5. ;-)

[kwimberly]

03 1.8t 5-spd. 110k miles, little over half of them mine. Hood sticker shows sludge work done with prior owner. Possible engine replacement due to marks observed on the block.

[p8nt]

152k daily driver, bought at 117k. PO said clutch and tbelt done at 90k, but no receipts. I did the tbelt at 120k just so I could sleep better. Run great.

[heywier427]

206,xxx, 3rd owner, got it at 136,xxx. nothing major to report. org. turbo gave out at 18x,xxx i think. except for coilpacks, its been really reliable. and i drive it like McQueen!

[ShogunR32]

Original owner with 160k miles daily driven. I replaced the head, rods and pistons, not due to any issues, I just wanted to to for my setup.

[zamflip]

03 1.8t 128k here. replaced timing belt at 95k, cv axles, upper control arms, tie rods at 125k.

[duhbrr]

3rd owner, 150k k04 stage 2+. Lots of work done by PO, just did timing belt/tensioner, thermostat, and some other odds and ends. Planning on a BAT 2.0L build at 200k

[BLK]

Second owner 2002 A4 1.8T AWD. 147,000

[mrbacardi35]

02 with 175k and has never let me down. also runs like a champ...knock on the woods.

[A4.1.8turboo]

my old b6. 155k when sold. got it with 97k. a whoooole lot of parts replaced. Except turbo. didn't want to fix.. so I bought an A3. well worth it. do miss the hell out if it though.

[WOMBAT]

My 02 has 197k and my wife's 03 has 184k both on original engine/ trans

[TwinTipSkier]

02 118k 2nd owner (aquired in 2008 from original owner)
original everything cept t-belt/w-pump once at 85k by me.
loving all these high mileage 02s. Makes me feel better about my ticking time bomb. I can tell front end is gettin wobbly tho.

[CyberPMG]

Are bad oil pumps known on these? Do they have mileage interval that they should be changed and is it a simple DIY?

There aren't bad oil pumps. Mine gave out due to high miles. They can go out sooner if the car is not properly maintained.

[ENV²]

This is pretty decent news about the longetivity of these cars. The one I bough was not well maintained so i am sure I will be working on it for at least a month and then putting it on the road.

What should I look for besides sludge to know if I should replace oil pump?

[SleeperAvant]

~126,000miles on chassis;
~100,000miles on turbo kit;
~32,311miles on block and transmission (had bottom end beefed up and manual drivetrain swapped in).
~3,700miles on clutch/flywheel.

Other various tidbits brand new to the car, too much to list.

[CyberPMG]

I would drop the oil pan and clean out anything in there... especially around the pickup screen. Other than that, there's really no way to know about the oil pump except trusting the oil pressure sensors. I've found, though, that the oil pump in mine must have still make enough pressure to be just above the minimum setting to not cause any codes to be logged. Our cars don't come with an oil pressure (or oil temperature) gauge, so you're trusting the car and the maintenance done.

For my new engine, I'm also adding a new vent gauge that will include the monitoring of oil pressure and temp. This should then give me a better way to catch this before any damage is done internally. If it wasn't for the oil pump, I believe my engine would continue to operate reliably well into the 300k mile mark.

If you're trying to get the car back into shape, I would recommend the following:

- Get all fluids flushed and filled (oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, differential)
- Replace valve cover gasket
- If you're not sure on the service history, you can do a seafoam treatment to help scrub out the sludge buildup
- After doing the seafoam, keep an eye on the cam seals. The chemical cleaning can cause the seals to weaken and leak oil
- Replace all filters (air, charcoal cabin, fuel)
- New spark plugs
- Check the battery. If still the original battery, it's due for replacement

Other items to inspect:

- Control arms - bushings go bad after 100k miles
- Injector seats - will turn yellow, dry out, and crack which will lower MPG (replaced mine after 200k miles)
- Wire harness plugs in the engine bay - over time, the rubber boots can separate exposing the wires to heat and crack
- Vacuum system - cracked and/or rotted lines, check valves, PCV, PRV, etc. - replaced most of this after 180k miles

Anything else is normal wear and tear that anyone has to deal with regardless of miles.

[SleeperAvant]

I would drop the oil pan and clean out anything in there... especially around the pickup screen. Other than that, there's really no way to know about the oil pump except trusting the oil pressure sensors. I've found, though, that the oil pump in mine must have still make enough pressure to be just above the minimum setting to not cause any codes to be logged. Our cars don't come with an oil pressure (or oil temperature) gauge, so you're trusting the car and the maintenance done.

For my new engine, I'm also adding a new vent gauge that will include the monitoring of oil pressure and temp. This should then give me a better way to catch this before any damage is done internally. If it wasn't for the oil pump, I believe my engine would continue to operate reliably well into the 300k mile mark.

If you're trying to get the car back into shape, I would recommend the following:

- Get all fluids flushed and filled (oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, differential)
- Replace valve cover gasket
- If you're not sure on the service history, you can do a seafoam treatment to help scrub out the sludge buildup
- After doing the seafoam, keep an eye on the cam seals. The chemical cleaning can cause the seals to weaken and leak oil
- Replace all filters (air, charcoal cabin, fuel)
- New spark plugs
- Check the battery. If still the original battery, it's due for replacement

Other items to inspect:

- Control arms - bushings go bad after 100k miles
- Injector seats - will turn yellow, dry out, and crack which will lower MPG (replaced mine after 200k miles)
- Wire harness plugs in the engine bay - over time, the rubber boots can separate exposing the wires to heat and crack
- Vacuum system - cracked and/or rotted lines, check valves, PCV, PRV, etc. - replaced most of this after 180k miles

Anything else is normal wear and tear that anyone has to deal with regardless of miles.

What's the interval for power steering fluid?

[ENV²]

I would drop the oil pan and clean out anything in there... especially around the pickup screen. Other than that, there's really no way to know about the oil pump except trusting the oil pressure sensors. I've found, though, that the oil pump in mine must have still make enough pressure to be just above the minimum setting to not cause any codes to be logged. Our cars don't come with an oil pressure (or oil temperature) gauge, so you're trusting the car and the maintenance done.

For my new engine, I'm also adding a new vent gauge that will include the monitoring of oil pressure and temp. This should then give me a better way to catch this before any damage is done internally. If it wasn't for the oil pump, I believe my engine would continue to operate reliably well into the 300k mile mark.

If you're trying to get the car back into shape, I would recommend the following:

- Get all fluids flushed and filled (oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, differential)
- Replace valve cover gasket
- If you're not sure on the service history, you can do a seafoam treatment to help scrub out the sludge buildup
- After doing the seafoam, keep an eye on the cam seals. The chemical cleaning can cause the seals to weaken and leak oil
- Replace all filters (air, charcoal cabin, fuel)
- New spark plugs
- Check the battery. If still the original battery, it's due for replacement

Other items to inspect:

- Control arms - bushings go bad after 100k miles
- Injector seats - will turn yellow, dry out, and crack which will lower MPG (replaced mine after 200k miles)
- Wire harness plugs in the engine bay - over time, the rubber boots can separate exposing the wires to heat and crack
- Vacuum system - cracked and/or rotted lines, check valves, PCV, PRV, etc. - replaced most of this after 180k miles

Anything else is normal wear and tear that anyone has to deal with regardless of miles.

Thanks a lot for this. Would you be able to help me with part#s for the crankcase valves, breather hoses etc? I really want to place a full order today for all my parts. Also what the best price or range of price for oil pump?


Also what are your thoughts on removing the whole PCV system?

[onceover]

If the PCV system is working properly it will only HELP increase the lifespan of the engine