T-Belt Crank Locking Tool

[ArcticDRIVER]

Quick question when replacing T-Belt on 2.7 allroad.

How in the heck do you guys access the crank locking plug to install the locking tool?

Is it possible to complete this project without using the locking pin? It seems like it would be as long as you clearly mark the position of the TDC referenced to something on the block.

Thanks for the help. Currently this TB and VCG project is kicking my ass.

[ArcticDRIVER]

For the 33 people who viewed this without knowing the answer...its YES, you can do the job sans locking pin tool.

Cheers.

[harorider95]

I taped it to a 3/8 swivel socket and attached that to a 2 foot extension which you can access through the oil filter gap.-Mike

[rollerton]

I only attempted to use the crank lock pin once since I had it handy. After about 5 minutes of trying to figure out how the hell you're supposed to get the bolt out and the lock in I said fug it. Never bothered before or since then.

[throttlemonkey]

I am doing the timing belt on my Allroad this weekend too... & was having the same problem. I unbolted the intercooler tube thats in the way (2 allen bolts@ the drain plug) shifted it up far enough that I could get an allen socket (3/8 drive w/ swivel) on the plug.

Hope this helps!

[ArcticDRIVER]

W

I am doing the timing belt on my Allroad this weekend too... & was having the same problem. I unbolted the intercooler tube thats in the way (2 allen bolts@ the drain plug) shifted it up far enough that I could get an allen socket (3/8 drive w/ swivel) on the plug.

Hello, thats funny. After I got the belt on, the cam pullys tightened to 41 ft-lbs and started installing the serpentine I couldnt live with not doing it thoroughly so I took another look. Found the same access you did with removal of tube. Only problem is my plastic plug snapped off flush with the block. Have not resolved that one yet!

Cheers

[ArcticDRIVER]

I could really use some first hand knowledge. The crankshaft TDC lock plastic plug on my 2.7T broke off flush with the block. All efforts at removal has thus far failed due to limited access.

My question to you guys is WHAT is behind that plug? If any of the plastic of the plug gets pushed back into that opening...what can happen? Its very likely that more of it will crack rather than pull out and I am wondering if I am better off leaving it as is since it currently covers the hole or further attempt removing it which will possibly push pieces of the brittle plastic deeper into the recess.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[mike2112]

I am doing the timing belt on my Allroad this weekend too... & was having the same problem. I unbolted the intercooler tube thats in the way (2 allen bolts@ the drain plug) shifted it up far enough that I could get an allen socket (3/8 drive w/ swivel) on the plug.

Hope this helps!

what he said plus, long extension swivel with tape on it, I dropped the swaybar out of the way 0n my 01 a6 2.7t

[kingofnyc]

Easiest way for me is to remove the piping from Turbo to the intercooler. It's a few min extra but will make it much easier and you will be able to get it in by hand.

[julex]

I could really use some first hand knowledge. The crankshaft TDC lock plastic plug on my 2.7T broke off flush with the block. All efforts at removal has thus far failed due to limited access.

My question to you guys is WHAT is behind that plug? If any of the plastic of the plug gets pushed back into that opening...what can happen? Its very likely that more of it will crack rather than pull out and I am wondering if I am better off leaving it as is since it currently covers the hole or further attempt removing it which will possibly push pieces of the brittle plastic deeper into the recess.

Thanks for any suggestions.

What you have behind it is a reciprocating crankshaft counterbalance which travels at extreme speeds and is very heavy. If that plastics makes it in there, It will get shattered into million pieces and possibly plug you oil pump intake... but you will know it happens when you get low oil and/or oil pressure icons screaming at you from the dash. I would try harder getting it out. Perhaps shaping a real long screw driver or something like that into a shape that allows you to reach the plug and heating it up so that it melts into the plastic and then pull once it cools down... but then if it is stuck so bad, maybe leaving it in is the way to go.

[ArcticDRIVER]

What you have behind it is a reciprocating crankshaft counterbalance which travels at extreme speeds and is very heavy. If that plastics makes it in there, It will get shattered into million pieces and possibly plug you oil pump intake... but you will know it happens when you get low oil and/or oil pressure icons screaming at you from the dash. I would try harder getting it out. Perhaps shaping a real long screw driver or something like that into a shape that allows you to reach the plug and heating it up so that it melts into the plastic and then pull once it cools down... but then if it is stuck so bad, maybe leaving it in is the way to go.

THANKS!

With no outer edge to catch a tool against, the best alternative I could find was grabbing a 3/16 x 12" drill bit and a long piece of steel with a U shape that I could hold near the block and keep the bit positioned in the center of the broken plastic plug. Once I got the hole drilled, then it was just a matter of inserting the end of a hardened steel "pick" into the hole and prying it out. The remaining plug came out as one piece.

Holding a mirror up to the hole, I saw no plastic debris and the mirror also allowed me to find TDC quite easily for the locking plug install.

I am amazed at how "brittle" all the plastics are on this 2001 2.7T. Every PCV T-fitting and check valve snaps in half like it was sprayed with Liquid Nitrogen.

Thanks to everyone on this message board. Your past posts and current responses have been informative and essential.

Cheers.

[julex]

THANKS!

With no outer edge to catch a tool against, the best alternative I could find was grabbing a 3/16 x 12" drill bit and a long piece of steel with a U shape that I could hold near the block and keep the bit positioned in the center of the broken plastic plug. Once I got the hole drilled, then it was just a matter of inserting the end of a hardened steel "pick" into the hole and prying it out. The remaining plug came out as one piece.

Holding a mirror up to the hole, I saw no plastic debris and the mirror also allowed me to find TDC quite easily for the locking plug install.

I am amazed at how "brittle" all the plastics are on this 2001 2.7T. Every PCV T-fitting and check valve snaps in half like it was sprayed with Liquid Nitrogen.

Thanks to everyone on this message board. Your past posts and current responses have been informative and essential.

Cheers.

And you know what's the crazy part in all that? You don't need that crank lock pin for anything since you can see TDC on crank pulley as well... Pin is only needed if you for some reason need to reinstall crak bolt as the torque needed to fasten that bolt is just crazy and you need the crank immobile for that.

Interesting about the plastics. I find my own 2001 to have pretty well preserved engine plastic parts, I have to yet snap anything even though I've been there numerous times for engine pulls... Might have to do with the climate, NE has though winters snow/salt wise but no hot and dry climate at all. With all the galvanizing audi did on the underbody, my allroad is preserved very well.

[ArcticDRIVER]

And you know what's the crazy part in all that? You don't need that crank lock pin for anything since you can see TDC on crank pulley as well... Pin is only needed if you for some reason need to reinstall crak bolt as the torque needed to fasten that bolt is just crazy and you need the crank immobile for that.

Would respectfully disagree with that since the TDC mark on the crank pulley is no assurance of anything...it is good to within a tooth or two of TDC when matched up with the plastic timing belt cover but without the visual confirmation of removing the plastic plug and visually checking the crank hole with a mirror or using the locking tool, no way can you tell its at TDC. On my own 2.7T, the TDC mark on the pulley is 6-10 mm clockwise offcenter of the marking on the plastic timing belt cover depending on how I shift the cover when bolting it on. For all I know, actual TDC could have been 6-10mm counterclockwise of that mark.

Now in your case, where you have checked TDC before and have a solid knowledge of the position of the crank pulley mark in relation to TDC, you can forego removing the plug. In my case, this is the first time I have had to locate TDC and that requires removal of the plug to do the job 100%.

As a sidenote, I was actually able to contort my XL hand right up to the plug when I was re-installing by approaching it from the passenger side rather than the driver side wheelwell. Guys approaching this project for the first time might get lucky doing the same.

Cheers guys.

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Would respectfully disagree with that since the TDC mark on the crank pulley is no assurance of anything...it is good to within a tooth or two of TDC when matched up with the plastic timing belt cover but without the visual confirmation of removing the plastic plug and visually checking the crank hole with a mirror or using the locking tool, no way can you tell its at TDC. On my own 2.7T, the TDC mark on the pulley is 6-10 mm clockwise offcenter of the marking on the plastic timing belt cover depending on how I shift the cover when bolting it on. For all I know, actual TDC could have been 6-10mm counterclockwise of that mark.

Now in your case, where you have checked TDC before and have a solid knowledge of the position of the crank pulley mark in relation to TDC, you can forego removing the plug. In my case, this is the first time I have had to locate TDC and that requires removal of the plug to do the job 100%.

As a sidenote, I was actually able to contort my XL hand right up to the plug when I was re-installing by approaching it from the passenger side rather than the driver side wheelwell. Guys approaching this project for the first time might get lucky doing the same.

Cheers guys.

Glad I found this post. Cause I'm having the same idea and issues. When installing the TB I'm not 100% sure I'm at TDC on the crank. Now I never removed the crank sprocket but did mark the block and sprocket when I removed the belt, and prior to that I lined it up to TDC mark on plastic and crank pulley. Now my problem is when reinstalling the belt I noticed the crank pulley rocks back and forth on the crank sprocket bolt, even tho it has key marks it still moves. So I'm not sure its at 100% TDC when I set it on there, I did install 4 out of the 8 allen bolts to hold it but it still rocked like you said 6-10mm in either way. So the car is all back together cause I set it to what I thought was correct. Car runs good, its chipped and I'm still worried that I'm not at TDC on the crank so I ordered the lock pin what I plan on doing is removing intercooler pipes and locking crank at TDC and then leaving the belt on and car together basically just pop off the cam sprockets and realign the cams to TDC then put cam lock bar on and tighten them back down.

I could care less if the mark on the crank pulley is dead on if I know the crank lock shows/holds it at TDC cause I'm not ripping the car apart all in all I spent 23hrs working on the car over the past week. The only reason I wanna double check is I have noticed that even with the TIP/AUTO when I use to downshift into 2nd I would get decent engine braking. Now it seems I don't. But it could be that I'm more dead on timing or its off a little and exhaust valves are open too long or something. But car pulls great, not one fault code so IDK. Do these cars have a crank position sensor?? If I was off wouldn't it throw a code? Car feels great power wise it might feel a little slower but its smoother now like butter. I also did NGK BRK7E plugs @ .028 gap cause I'm stage 2 and maybe there too cold of a spark plug? Idk it was suggested to use the 7's.

[julex]

Glad I found this post. Cause I'm having the same idea and issues. When installing the TB I'm not 100% sure I'm at TDC on the crank. Now I never removed the crank sprocket but did mark the block and sprocket when I removed the belt, and prior to that I lined it up to TDC mark on plastic and crank pulley. Now my problem is when reinstalling the belt I noticed the crank pulley rocks back and forth on the crank sprocket bolt, even tho it has key marks it still moves. So I'm not sure its at 100% TDC when I set it on there, I did install 4 out of the 8 allen bolts to hold it but it still rocked like you said 6-10mm in either way. So the car is all back together cause I set it to what I thought was correct. Car runs good, its chipped and I'm still worried that I'm not at TDC on the crank so I ordered the lock pin what I plan on doing is removing intercooler pipes and locking crank at TDC and then leaving the belt on and car together basically just pop off the cam sprockets and realign the cams to TDC then put cam lock bar on and tighten them back down.

I could care less if the mark on the crank pulley is dead on if I know the crank lock shows/holds it at TDC cause I'm not ripping the car apart all in all I spent 23hrs working on the car over the past week. The only reason I wanna double check is I have noticed that even with the TIP/AUTO when I use to downshift into 2nd I would get decent engine braking. Now it seems I don't. But it could be that I'm more dead on timing or its off a little and exhaust valves are open too long or something. But car pulls great, not one fault code so IDK. Do these cars have a crank position sensor?? If I was off wouldn't it throw a code? Car feels great power wise it might feel a little slower but its smoother now like butter. I also did NGK BRK7E plugs @ .028 gap cause I'm stage 2 and maybe there too cold of a spark plug? Idk it was suggested to use the 7's.

You should use vag-com to verify your crank to camshafts timing. Look at block 093. If it is close to zero, up to say +-6 is fine, then your timing is "Good enough".

[GSXeclipsePSI]

What are these engines normally. Like my old car was u set engine to TDC and the cam position sensor to 5* advanced. What about these cars? About to go check in. Report back in a few

Update

Ok did group 93 and a few others.

Now I had a bosch sensor crap out on me, so could someone tell me if my sensor seems good by 4 g/s at idle, my 1/4 of gas use to get me more then 100miles now I am at 75miles or less @ 1/4 tank since I changed sensors, the blow one was shot it also read 3 or 4 steady even with 4k rpms.

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Read up on a few other post I was looking at. Here are better screen shots of my readings.

I also see under can adjustment in another group that its -1 on bank 1&2 so that would be +1/2 and zero on other.








Turned car off and let it cool down and then took this screen shot


Here is my MAF readings

[urAllroad]

Glad I found this post. Cause I'm having the same idea and issues. When installing the TB I'm not 100% sure I'm at TDC on the crank. Now I never removed the crank sprocket but did mark the block and sprocket when I removed the belt, and prior to that I lined it up to TDC mark on plastic and crank pulley. Now my problem is when reinstalling the belt I noticed the crank pulley rocks back and forth on the crank sprocket bolt, even tho it has key marks it still moves. So I'm not sure its at 100% TDC when I set it on there, I did install 4 out of the 8 allen bolts to hold it but it still rocked like you said 6-10mm in either way. So the car is all back together cause I set it to what I thought was correct. Car runs good, its chipped and I'm still worried that I'm not at TDC on the crank so I ordered the lock pin what I plan on doing is removing intercooler pipes and locking crank at TDC and then leaving the belt on and car together basically just pop off the cam sprockets and realign the cams to TDC then put cam lock bar on and tighten them back down.

I could care less if the mark on the crank pulley is dead on if I know the crank lock shows/holds it at TDC cause I'm not ripping the car apart all in all I spent 23hrs working on the car over the past week. The only reason I wanna double check is I have noticed that even with the TIP/AUTO when I use to downshift into 2nd I would get decent engine braking. Now it seems I don't. But it could be that I'm more dead on timing or its off a little and exhaust valves are open too long or something. But car pulls great, not one fault code so IDK. Do these cars have a crank position sensor?? If I was off wouldn't it throw a code? Car feels great power wise it might feel a little slower but its smoother now like butter. I also did NGK BRK7E plugs @ .028 gap cause I'm stage 2 and maybe there too cold of a spark plug? Idk it was suggested to use the 7's.

The crank tool has a finger that goes into a groove in the crank. If you thread the tool in slightly you will notice the crank can spin a few degrees. As you tighten the crank tool down further you will notice the crankshaft shift to line itself up at TDC. I would try to get the crank as close to TDC as possible then put the tool in and tighten the crap out of it. In the end I had a few threads showing but the crank was held tightly. At this point you'd do your installation of belt and stuff and reinstall the harmonic balancer with the arrows all lining up at TDC. Then once that's done you can go crazy with lining up the cams with the cam lock bar etc.

The way I access the crank plug is reach in from underneath the motor above the subframe. You should be able to look straight up and see the driver side turbo, but reach in with your right hand and you should be able to touch the allen plug. To crack loose and torque down that plug I used about 1.5 feet of extensions with a 3/8" universal joint and an 8mm allen socket but used my hand to unthread and thread the rest of the way since once almost out you'll come across the problem of your tool binding against something.

As for the crank lock tool, put your arm in the same area and hand thread it in the first couple of threads then use a 10mm ratcheting wrench to get it on. Once it starts getting tighter figure something out that works for you or daisy chain the wrench with another and crank until it becomes nigh impossible to go further; at that point your lock pin has bottomed out. The below picture shows the lock pin threaded maybe 2 turns. Please excuse the white coating on everything, the PO had cooling issues