Creaking noise when turning steering wheel...

[a44mark]

So, I've got a noise that comes from the front of the car when turning the steering wheel - sounds like creaking/popping. Happens at low speeds - backing out of the driveway or pulling into a parking spot. Not noticeable while driving, probably due to road noise. My first thought was control arms based on what I've read, but I'm not seeing any obvious play in the rubber bushings and nothing is torn. Same for outer tie rod ends. Also no leaks in the power steering system.

The car has >170,000 miles on it and the CA's have never been replaced, so I'm kinda planning for this anyway, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something else.

I'll add that I'm not 100% sure I'm checking things properly - I will grab a wheel with two hands when I've got the car jacked up and rock side to side. I just don't see any significant movement. But, like I said above, with the mileage I've got, I figure they can't be in good shape.

Anything else I should check before replacing these?

[Dcass08]

My CA bushings were doing exactly that on my A4. I gave them a squirt of WD-40 and they were good for a while until they got dry again.

[IVRNGS]

Check your power steering pump fluid level. A low level could bring on pump whine...

[yung turbo]

Not to jack but i have the same issue and my mechanic said its my control arms and tie rods. Hopefully this will give you a place to start.

[f1torrents]

Same issue here.

Once the bushings warn up they don't creek anymore.
I have a complete front suspension kit but will not be installing it until the spring/summer.

I may try spraying them with SC1 (silicone based spray) to see if they quiet down.

It doesn't really even bother me anymore.

[CHARLES A4]

Same thing with me but I figured it was from my tires sitting all night in the cold and getting a little hard

[wheelmanbg]

I have had the same issue ever since I bought the car 2 years ago.
I replaced all of the control arms and tie rod ends using inexpensive replacement, didn't help.
I recently changed the tie rod ends with quality parts and that helped a little. I figured it was the rack because it's leaking a little bit

[diagnosticator]

Creaking/popping noises that occur during low speed turns are most often caused by cracks in the subframe, or failed welds in the subframe. Either replace the subframe with a new or known good used part, or have the subframe re welded in place.

[Dan1969]

I have to do all my control arms and along with the shocks on the front, I'm at 115K miles. However I do have bad inner tire wear and my alignment suffers, I can feel when I accelerate how the car pulls toe in with the torque and toes out with braking.

[f1torrents]

Creaking/popping noises that occur during low speed turns are most often caused by cracks in the subframe, or failed welds in the subframe. Either replace the subframe with a new or known good used part, or have the subframe re welded in place.

Why would it stop when the car warms up from driving?
Mine only creeks when its been sitting for 5+ hours or really cold outside.

[p8nt]

Didn't Old Guy find a spray that he used on the bushings with success on this subject?

[zamflip]

I got that problem too... I replaced new tie rods and upper control arms, feel little clunks when i steer it fully turn in 5mph. I will inspect them again soon.

[BARRY]

bushings need lube. clunk could be due to cracked/worn bushing.

any graphite based lube should quiet things significantly.

[diagnosticator]

Why would it stop when the car warms up from driving?
Mine only creeks when its been sitting for 5+ hours or really cold outside.

The only reason I can think of is due to thermal expansion/contraction, resulting in the loosening of the crack, allowing relative motion that does not occur audibly or sensationally, when warmed up.

[a44mark]

I'll try some silicone spray just for fun, but the noise is there regardless of how long I've driven the car. I do coincidentally have a groan in my PS pump as well, but the fluid level is fine and there are no bubbles when I turn the wheel.

I'm a little unsure with what I should be looking for (and where) regarding the subframe... any pics to give me an area to focus on?

[CHARLES A4]

I'll try some silicone spray just for fun, but the noise is there regardless of how long I've driven the car. I do coincidentally have a groan in my PS pump as well, but the fluid level is fine and there are no bubbles when I turn the wheel.

I'm a little unsure with what I should be looking for (and where) regarding the subframe... any pics to give me an area to focus on?

I have a slow leak and bubbles in mine!!!!

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Had this happen with my B5 and it turned out to be tie rod ends. Replaced them with Meyle HD's and never heard it again. At 170k I would definitely have all your control arms replaced. Not worth the risk of a ball joint failing while at speed and causing an accident.

I had a lower ball joint fail on my B5 while I was turning on to a main street. Luckily it failed while only going 5-10 mph and there was no traffic coming the other way because it made my car swerve unexpectedly into the other lane across the double yellow.

Get it taken care of sooner than later! We have quite a few options for control arm kits shoot me a PM for a quote!

Jason

[Habs]

After about 130,000 kms I decided to do a complete suspension refresh, Control Arms, Trailing Arms, Outer/Inner Tie Rods, Front/Rear Sway Bar links, Strut Mount/Bump Stops (Meyle control arms and sway bar links, everything else OEM, all from ECS). The work done a month ago and while the car drives and feels much better I started getting the same creaking/popping noises at lower speeds when I'm turning the wheel and parking. Just like OP it I only hear it while parking and turning the wheel, not driving at higher speeds.


I'm not sure if this is a result of a faulty part or certain parts not installed properly (installation done at Audi dealership) but I have to bring it in and have them look at it. After I get an answer as to what was causing it I'll let you guys know.

[Dcass08]

Probably rubber bushings drying a little. Pick one or two and give them a shot of WD-40 and see if it goes away. Keep it up until you find the right one.

[CyberPMG]

It's the bushings in the upper control arms. Happend to me. Put in a new full set of control arms and TRE (Febi/Bilstein). Must have had a bad set becasue the noise returned on the right side after two weeks. The shop is currently looking into this.

[Bags4Groceries]

It's the bushings in the upper control arms. Happend to me. Put in a new full set of control arms and TRE (Febi/Bilstein). Must have had a bad set becasue the noise returned on the right side after two weeks. The shop is currently looking into this.

Paul - Cary and I were JUST talking about this. Happened to me too after 1 month...

[texasboy21]

I had some creaks and moans that was corrected with the installation of new control arms and tie rod ends. I have since developed some new creaks that I suspect are coming from the subframe, or the subframe bushings.

Does anyone know of a more rigid bushing for our chassis other than the 034 Motorsports billet aluminum?

[CyberPMG]

Paul - Cary and I were JUST talking about this. Happened to me too after 1 month...

The previous set of Febi/Bilstein arms lasted for 2-3 years. Seems the quality has gone down. :(

[Habs]

The cause of the noise for me was a deformed Inner Tie Rod Dust Boot, they replaced and it completely fixed the problem.

[fallingreason]

This happened to me on my old Mustang GT. Turned out it was just the power-steering fluid reservoir/tank was overfilled. Removed fluid to just below the fill-line and all was well.

[haiden1991]

The cause of the noise for me was a deformed Inner Tie Rod Dust Boot, they replaced and it completely fixed the problem.

Unreal. Was this a big job?

I'm suspecting this is same issue for me, as the 'clunking' feels closer to the steering wheel than the wheels.. and it feels more like plastic contorting than a mechanical 'thunk'. if that makes sense. Same as everyone else, only full turns at slow speeds cause this.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I've had this issue for a couple years now and I've always assumed it's the subframe issue that "diagnosticator" speaks of. I'm actually surprised that so many people seem to have resolved it by other means. FWIW, I have looked for a failed spot-weld in the sub-frame when I've done oil changes and never found anything definitively failed.

[Kevin C]

I have had the same issue. On mine it was the control arm pivots had too much friction. New Febi arms and all was good for about a year and then it came back but only when it was really hot outside. I'm swapping in a set of Lemforders in a couple of weeks. On mine it was never the bushings, it was always the pivots. Had the same thing on a 2000 Passat when the tie rods went, that was a set of Myle's that only lasted three years. So far I have had problems with Myle and Febi that's why I'm going with Lemforder, tired of changing parts.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I have had the same issue. On mine it was the control arm pivots had too much friction.

I presume we're talking about the main lower control arm that attaches to the sub-frame with the shock-mount about 3/4ths of the way through it's length, yes? And it's the pivot point at the sub-frame that was binding, yes?

Just want to be 100% sure we're on the same page. I'm wondering if a shot of some spray-lube might help, even if only in the short-term as a means to confirm the problem source.

[Kevin C]

I presume we're talking about the main lower control arm that attaches to the sub-frame with the shock-mount about 3/4ths of the way through it's length, yes? And it's the pivot point at the sub-frame that was binding, yes?

Just want to be 100% sure we're on the same page. I'm wondering if a shot of some spray-lube might help, even if only in the short-term as a means to confirm the problem source.

The inner bushing only flex, I was referring to the ball joints at the end of each arm. My steering juddered and had high friction when hot. I was able to isolate the problem by hitting the joints with freeze spray, all of the bushings on mine appear to be fine. I should be ready to tear into it in about 2 weeks. I'm just waiting a few last parts and I need to go through the pick and pull calipers. Going full bore, Lemforder front end rebuild, B7 A4 brakes all four corners, S4 rear carriers, S4 front rack and servotronic. Its taking a while to line up all the parts.

I will update when I get it torn down.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

The inner bushing only flex, I was referring to the ball joints at the end of each arm.

Ah, so the ball-joint is the suspect part. I hadn't even considered that. Look forward to your thoughts once you've completed the project.

I've been pretty happy with my B7 front calipers. The only thing I found is that the friction material separated from the backing plate on both inner pads. They acted a little funky after that - fine again once replaced.

[rogue]

My B7 with 180,000kms had creaky steering, had been getting worse over time.

I thought it might have been the upper link bushes, so bought 4 and pulled the suspension out and replaced the upper bushes on both sides.
It got better, and I thought I had solved it.. but I still had creaking.

I removed a wheel, and disconnected a tie-rod, and this was the Eureka! moment... I could turn the steering with my head right there, and could clearly hear the creaking coming from the sway bar links.

If you have creaky steering on a B6/B7, I would replace the sway bar links first, because they are really easy to change, and then beyond that be looking at doing the upper links. (My upper links were really gone.. so glad I went to the effort).