How would you build your 1.8t for 350whp?

[jai5]

I'm thinking about scrapping the 2.7tt swap idea. Mostly because of the logistics of the swap/space. I also have a fairly good running 1.8T that I've taken good care of.

My goal is somewhere between 325-350whp.
My budget is around $4-5k. Trying to keep it on a budget and buy parts through classifieds when I can. Majority of the work will be done by myself.

Turbo: I was thinking a 3071r.

That's how far I've gotten. I know I need:
Rods (IE?)
Intercooler (so many options..which one?)
Clutch (what stage/brand) something drivable.
Tuning, I was thinking Eurodyne Maestro
Is a new fuel pump required? IF so I'm guessing Bosch 044?
Injectors? What size?
Is a test pipe required? Would I be okay with high flow cat?
What manifold to use?
Piping for intercooler? How do I go about doing this... :S

Been doing some research saw some posts about using a AEB head if I'm planning on revving it past 7k. I don't see myself really revving past 7k to be honest.

I know there's lots of questions. I did do some searching and some of the posts were old and some not really helpful. Hopefully some of you experienced guys can chime in and help me out.

And of course some pics of the shitbox:

[Seerlah]

You need to increase that budget. These cars are not cheap to mod. I do my own work, pieced together my own turbo kit, pieced together my clutch, built my engine myself with used forged rods/AEB pistons, and that budget simply won't cut it. It will def cut it for a turbo kit. But to get 350whp you will need to increase your budget some. It's all the little stuff that adds up quick and then supporting mods is a must. A clutch alone will run you $1,000. Add a turbo to that and you are already $2,000 into your budget. Also, a GT3071R will def get you there.

[B5 Quattro]

I'm looking at getting my 2000 1.8t to the high 200hp area and I'm looking at about 5-6 G's.
Let us know how your build is going though, would love to see/hear it.

[smppro]

I have 246hp to the wheels at 22psi, not sure what it is at 28psi but heres what I have


-Garrett GT3071 turbo
-IE Rods
-JE pistons
-crank was knife edged
-valve job done on head
-38mm Tial wastegate
-custom 3in downpipe from USP Motorsports
-Eurodyne Software
-Bosch 044 fuel pump
-830cc injectors
-AEM Tru-Boost controller/Gauge
-Forge 004 blow off
-Clutch is Spec Stage 3+
-Kenetic front mount intercooler
-custom exhaust, no cats

I dont think $5k will do, maybe with used parts and you do all the work but the clutch and building the bottom end take a chunk out, then theres the software, intercooler, fuel pump, injectors, exhaust manifold, exhaust, then you still need a turbo, than all the small things. But good luck regardless, your a4 look nice

[Seerlah]

You should be putting down better numbers than that. Maybe you meant 346 whp?

[Haenszel20v]

-Garrett journal 60-trim turbo
-any manifold
-oil lines
-IE Rods
-38mm Tial wastegate
-3in downpipe
-Uni BT Mafless Software
-walbro pump
-630cc injectors
-MBC
-any DV
-CM FX400
-Kenetic front mount intercooler
-any 3" exhaust

If you're on a budget, this will do it, and it will do it well. Nothing fancy, just cheap and efficient. I made 490 on essentially this setup at 28psi.

[smppro]

You should be putting down better numbers than that. Maybe you meant 346 whp?

Ha, yeah 346hp is what I meant, 246 would be a little disappointing

[lorge1989]

GT3071 -
This will get you there. If you are interested in this, I will have one for sale with about 5k on it shortly.

Rods (IE?) -
IE Rods are good. But there are cheaper brands. I believe Brute rods are a bit cheaper.

Intercooler (so many options..which one?) -
You could buy a kit, because there are plenty out there. But it will save you money and probably perform better if you do it yourself. Try a Precision or Treadstone core and do your own 2.5" piping.

Clutch (what stage/brand) something drivable. -
Mixed reviews on this forum, but Southbend has been good to me. Call them up, very easy to work with.

Tuning, I was thinking Eurodyne Maestro -
Not the most cost effective setup. Like Haenszel said, a basic Uni MAFless will work good.

Is a new fuel pump required? IF so I'm guessing Bosch 044? -
I have this pump, and bracked from 034. It wasn't cheap, but it dropped right in and will work for a lot more power than you will make.

Injectors? What size? -
All depends on the tune. Not smaller than 630s but you easily could go bigger. These are on of the lowest priced items on your list.

Is a test pipe required? Would I be okay with high flow cat? -
High flow cat would be fine, just make sure it actually flows. Test pipe would be easier, obviously.

What manifold to use? -
Doesn't really matter again. PSI conceps, SPA, even ATP will be fine. See what you can find for a good deal. Just make sure you go T3 so you can upgrade later if you choose.

Piping for intercooler? How do I go about doing this... :S -
Buy a universal kit and make it happen. If you don't think you have the skills to do this, try to find one pre-made, either by a fellow forum member or by a vendor.

[tomb]

Sorry for no useful input but your car looks unreal! what wheels are they .. Sits really nice!

Tom

[GOODBYNAAIR]

I'm looking at getting my 2000 1.8t to the high 200hp area and I'm looking at about 5-6 G's.
Let us know how your build is going though, would love to see/hear it.

High "200" say 280 chp look F21 (franken turbo) low price and good power and 4-5k should do. If your talking 280 whp GTRS or 71r and 5- 6k will be needed do to rods and few others.

[UAVonline]

Ha, yeah 346hp is what I meant, 246 would be a little disappointing

I was about to say... you got ripped off somewhere in your build haha!

I feel you could get that power with just a 28rs, am I wrong to think that?

[QuattrOZZy]

to "fit" your budget:

IE 144X19 rods $600
ATP GT2871R eliminator turbo $1500
test pipe + exhaust $800+/-
FMIC $700+/-
440/630CC injectors and tune <$1000
clutchmasters 240MM FX400 $1200

thats $5800+/-, and you will need to do all the hard stuff yourself.
this does not include any rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, lubricants, fluids, or beers.
theoretically all this stuff is bolt on and doesent require any custom fitment, but from my experience theres always something...
you might make 300WHP with this setup...

[QuattrOZZy]

oh man, reading all that makes me think i would have been better off litteraly buying a gun and shooting myself in the clutchfoot many years ago... anyways, as a followup...

my suggestion is throw the big turbo on the backburner and start saving your change

invest in a good exhaust, frontmount, clutch, motormounts and an upgradable chip now. so that once you save up another 4-5K you are ready to step up to real power

good luck

PS: clean car bro

[OrangeDUB]

invest in a good exhaust, frontmount, clutch, motormounts and an upgradable chip now. so that once you save up another 4-5K you are ready to step up to real power

Good suggestion. parts that can be used for a BT setup but also you see benefits in with your stock turbo, are all a good idea. Then down the road you'll be like, "hey, I got half of the stuff needed to prepare me for BT!"

Only thing is that a stage 3-4 clutch setup on a k03 might be overkill, and could wear the clutch out prematurely. I might be wrong there.

Eurodyne Maestro software is what I'd get from the beginning if I could go back. You spend more initially but it's good for stock or BT applications. ALso APR, GIAC, etc are generic reflashes and not tweakable.

[rocky.ca]

You might be able to do it for 5k.


I am putting together my BT build right now. I was able to pick up a manifold, HFC, and GT2860RS for just over 1100 (different sources used). I have my intercooler piping from a universal kit for $200 and precision core for $400, injectors for $200. On top of that my exhaust was $700, and I am going to be going with the Spec stg 3+ clutch for approx 700 and using the stock DMFW.

That puts me at: 2700. And All I really need is rods and software another 1000.

[spindoctor]

I have 246hp to the wheels at 22psi, not sure what it is at 28psi but heres what I have


-Garrett GT3071 turbo
-IE Rods
-JE pistons
-crank was knife edged
-valve job done on head
-38mm Tial wastegate
-custom 3in downpipe from USP Motorsports
-Eurodyne Software
-Bosch 044 fuel pump
-830cc injectors
-AEM Tru-Boost controller/Gauge
-Forge 004 blow off
-Clutch is Spec Stage 3+
-Kenetic front mount intercooler
-custom exhaust, no cats

I dont think $5k will do, maybe with used parts and you do all the work but the clutch and building the bottom end take a chunk out, then theres the software, intercooler, fuel pump, injectors, exhaust manifold, exhaust, then you still need a turbo, than all the small things. But good luck regardless, your a4 look nice

Interesting that you've knife-edged the crank. Did it change how the engine response or during take off(I'd assume it requires a bit more revs to take off).

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Im working on a GTRS "build" right now getting the parts togetther, money I have in it.

used Evoms FMIC+Samco piping. $500

Cat back +3" TP $450

All new GTRS, 3" TIP, high flow manifold, High flow fuel rail, 630 injetcors, snub mount, high flow fuel pump, 008 forged DV, 3" MAf + hardwear. $1075

CM 240mm + LWFW $ 1100

thats off the top of my head.

(I have BBK used $900 good to have but dont really need it.)



need rods and tune $1000-1500

(other motor mounts and all control arms not needed but good. $500-700)

If you look at the classifieds and can get good prices, I will be around 3750-4500 after tune and rods ( you dont need a 1100 clutch). Can be done you just have to take you time and do the work yourself. + a 1000 when I pull my motor for odds and ends.

[spindoctor]

Can get a Comp turbo CT5556 non BB with billet compressor wheel through Ringer Racing. They're like $750.

That will save you heaps.

[OrangeDUB]

I thought BB performed better than journal

[GOODBYNAAIR]

^^ I believe your right about that?

[smppro]

I was about to say... you got ripped off somewhere in your build haha!

I feel you could get that power with just a 28rs, am I wrong to think that?

yeah i think you could, mine is more built for 400-450hp, ill have to get it dynoed with at 28 psi

Interesting that you've knife-edged the crank. Did it change how the engine response or during take off(I'd assume it requires a bit more revs to take off).

Yeah it actually does, nothing crazy though

[lookaught]

Stock to 350whp for $4-5k is not possible IMO. I built my car with used parts (admittedly nice used parts) and I am WAY over $5k and have stock motor internals. The little bits add up.

Maybe, just maybe, with a lot of time and picking the right deals you can make it happen, but if you have to open the motor, and a clutch is obviously necessary, you just can't do it for that budget.

[lookaught]

Im working on a GTRS "build" right now getting the parts togetther, money I have in it.

used Evoms FMIC+Samco piping. $500

Cat back +3" TP $450

All new GTRS, 3" TIP, high flow manifold, High flow fuel rail, 630 injetcors, snub mount, high flow fuel pump, 008 forged DV, 3" MAf + hardwear. $1075

CM 240mm + LWFW $ 1100

thats off the top of my head.

(I have BBK used $900 good to have but dont really need it.)



need rods and tune $1000-1500

(other motor mounts and all control arms not needed but good. $500-700)

If you look at the classifieds and can get good prices, I will be around 3750-4500 after tune and rods ( you dont need a 1100 clutch). Can be done you just have to take you time and do the work yourself. + a 1000 when I pull my motor for odds and ends.

Were the GTRS parts purchased second hand, but still new? THat is a smokin deal for those parts if they are all new. Damn near unbelievable.

[Averyvh225]

Start with Subwoofers, Intake and Magnaflow 16601 Exhaust ;)

[Haenszel20v]

I thought BB performed better than journal

If you're going budget, there's nothign wrong with a journal bearing turbo. I was able to make 650whp without even pressing it out of a good ol' journal bearing on a stock displacement 1.8t. There's cars on journal bearings (mind you, not street cars) that make 10-times the HP you're shooting for. Turbo's have been around for a LONG time and ball bearing upgrades are a relatively recent thing, and from experience, its really not all that jazzy...

[OrangeDUB]

If you're going budget, there's nothign wrong with a journal bearing turbo. I was able to make 650whp without even pressing it out of a good ol' journal bearing on a stock displacement 1.8t. There's cars on journal bearings (mind you, not street cars) that make 10-times the HP you're shooting for. Turbo's have been around for a LONG time and ball bearing upgrades are a relatively recent thing, and from experience, its really not all that jazzy...

Thanks for the info!

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Were the GTRS parts purchased second hand, but still new? THat is a smokin deal for those parts if they are all new. Damn near unbelievable.

Yes he had them for a build, something came up i guess, everything from ATP and 034. The sale was at first just the gtrs, mani and maf still a deal IMO it was all new guy had all recites for it $1075 his asking price. When I meet up with him he had all the extra stuff and just said take it ( every thing NEW still in the box). If i remember right I think I found a pennie heads up that day lol

[b6Hate4]

Yes he had them for a build, something came up i guess, everything from ATP and 034. The sale was at first just the gtrs, mani and maf still a deal IMO it was all new guy had all recites for it $1075 his asking price. When I meet up with him he had all the extra stuff and just said take it ( every thing NEW still in the box). If i remember right I think I found a pennie heads up that day lol

I got a similar deal, not AS smokin but I got

-GT71r
-630cc injectors
-southbend clutch
-ecs Ra4 flywheel
-walbro 255lph fuel pump


Everything was brand new.
$1400+ an s4 bumper I had that I never put on

[M-Hood]

The Comp Turbo entry level journal bearing CT3-5556 with Billet compressor wheel is a good option since it retails for $650 and they also offer a CT2-5556 with a cast compressor wheel for $575. There are a few AZ 1.8t members running the billet wheel CT3-5556. But if your main goal is just 350hp Comp Turbo does offer plenty of smaller billet wheel journal bearing turbos, CT2's around $850 and CT3's for under $1000.

[zandrew]

It can be done for less then $5k. You just have to be patient and buy when you see a good deal. I would look for a specific setup that you like and then try to duplicate it. Buying crappy parts for cheap prices are not going to help you out. There are some cheap parts you can buy that will be fine but you need to know the difference. DON"T cheap out on the turbo!!! Buy something that is known to work like a Garrett or Comp. Even though M Hood sucks the turbos he sells don't, oh wait actually they do suck but only in the sense that they are designed to do so. There is really nothing wrong with journal bearing turbos. Ball bearings turbos do have their advantages but for a street going machine you can easily get there without them.

Something else you need to consider more is your 350whp goal. There is more to it then just a number. You could easily build A setup that makes 350whp but drives like shit for what your purpose is and then build B setup that makes 300whp and will blow the doors off of A. How much response do you want? How much lag are you willing to live with? Do you do more stop n go or highway driving?

As far as the turbo itself goes it is one thing I suggest you buy new. There is nothing wrong with buying used if you really know what to look for. I see it all the time in listing "Absolutely no shaft play" and this is a fallacy. Turbos have to have play and they have surpisingly more then most would think especially dry. However it is so hard to discern even in the hands of skilled individual that it would be impossible to diagnose its health. I have seen properly installed turbos with 100,000 miles feel and look internally like brand new. I have seen properly installed turbos with 5,000 miles that were toast and could not be reused. It is just a gamble that you may end up paying twice for.

Here are some prices for parts I have bought to give you an idea of what types of deals you can get:

GT3076R with Vband and 3" test pipe $775 (it was supposed to be a GT3071R)
GT2871R $600
ATP manifold $40
eBay intercooler setup $200
Brand new Siemens 630cc $128

I also have bought my rods for $235, Maestro $830, Single Mass clutch conversion $200, V8 MAF (which is Bosch and Brand new ) $52, and my car came with the exhaust so I will be needing a Fuel pump and TIP. I also have wideband and boost guage and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Without rebuilding my motor and buying a new exhaust I could have done my setup for $3800 and it will easily do 300whp on the stock block which from what I have seen should be safe. The $3800 does include the cost for rods and for another $1k I could have my motor ready to take the abuse of 400whp+.


Oh and M hood does not suck. He knows his shit...

[B5 Quattro]

So what injectors are you guys running and what program ??

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Right now I have 630 cc siting around and going costume tune. for a gtrs or 2871r most people run 440- 630 its all about what the tune calls for really.

[Seerlah]

GT2871R
630cc
3 bar
Eurodyne OTS (MAFless)

[c0r3y.af]

Do what I did. I love my setup :) You can check out my build in my sig for more specifics but this is basically what I went with. Spools pretty quickly for a larger turbo and there's a ton of power. Awesome setup for a daily that gets driven hard.

GT3071r with manifold of choice
Tial 38mm WG
PAG Parts oil/coolant lines (hit up Arnold, he can put together a complete kit which makes things SUPER easy)
Software of choice
Bigger fuel pump and injectors (depends on tune)
Scat Rods w/ new bearings (cheapest solution)
FMIC of choice
ClutchMasters FX_00 kit (most people run the 400)

[M-Hood]

How quick does your 3071 hit 20 psi? Reason I ask is because I want to see yours compares to some A4 guys running CT's that are in the 3071r size. One of those guys is here on AZ and said he was taking the car to the dyno soon with Jon (b5a4gt28).

[stephanhemmings]

Sorry the OT but what rods is this? Are they forged?

https://ibb.co/eGu4X5

[Seerlah]

Pic not showing up.

[UndrCnStrction]

High "200" say 280 chp look F21 (franken turbo) low price and good power and 4-5k should do. If your talking 280 whp GTRS or 71r and 5- 6k will be needed do to rods and few others.

So what would be the proper steps be to this build from start to finish if you don’t mind me asking


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[$teady$upreme]

i got my setup long long time ago.

99.5 AEB
Eurodyne base file
GT28RS
ATP manifold
Custom TIP
V8 MAF
630cc injectors
forgot fpr, probably 3 bar
3" thick FMIC
3" custom turboback exhaust
Snow performance Meth
Walbro 255
Greddy profec B
AEM wideband

Just trying to make 300whp or slightly more. Can someone with a similar setup, send me a file?? Im tired of running hella Rich.
Thank you so much and much appreciated.

[sleepwalker_gsr]

I have 246hp to the wheels at 22psi, not sure what it is at 28psi but heres what I have


-Garrett GT3071 turbo
-IE Rods
-JE pistons
-crank was knife edged
-valve job done on head
-38mm Tial wastegate
-custom 3in downpipe from USP Motorsports
-Eurodyne Software
-Bosch 044 fuel pump
-830cc injectors
-AEM Tru-Boost controller/Gauge
-Forge 004 blow off
-Clutch is Spec Stage 3+
-Kenetic front mount intercooler
-custom exhaust, no cats

I dont think $5k will do, maybe with used parts and you do all the work but the clutch and building the bottom end take a chunk out, then theres the software, intercooler, fuel pump, injectors, exhaust manifold, exhaust, then you still need a turbo, than all the small things. But good luck regardless, your a4 look nice

Dude ive got the same WHP with the mods in my signature. Youve been tuned down for some reason. This is pre water meth.