Aux Water Pump Delete - thoughts?

[aestivales]

I searched though the forums to didn't find anything about if someone had run into any problems doing this, sorry if it's out there and im reposting.

My aux water pump is currently in the first stages of failing. Tiny leak and small crack in it. I'm about to change intake, y-pipe, ICs and seems a good time to either replace/relocate/delete the aux water pump and also install a phenolic spacer.

I'm looking at the 034 pipe to bypass it properly:

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...e-p-21272.html

Anyone have pros/cons on doing it? I always let it cool down before parking it and all that jazz. Is there a glaring reason to keep it?

Any input would be great.

Whit

Sent from my CucinaPro 1447 Crepe Maker

[00SantorinS4]

I'm not going to try and sway you but I'll tell you what I did. Mine was equally as effed.

I replaced it with an oem bosch unit and I also replaced the two hoses as mine were so heat bloated..

While I was in there I replaced the temp switch with a low temp one to help the pump push the coolant through the block and turbos much more often.
Not to mention new hose clamps and IM gaskets.

$175 to keep it OEM and most likely never have to replace again or do you want to spend $30 for the hose to bypass it.
You will get mixed feelings on deleting the pump or keeping it stock, in the end I'd just do what you feel is the best for you.

I personally enjoy the little extra added comfort of the pump running on 8/10 drives. It can't hurt anything.

[awdjunkies]

I'm not going to try and sway you but I'll tell you what I did. Mine was equally as effed.

I replaced it with an oem bosch unit and I also replaced the two hoses as mine were so heat bloated..

While I was in there I replaced the temp switch with a low temp one to help the pump push the coolant through the block and turbos much more often.
Not to mention new hose clamps and IM gaskets.

$175 to keep it OEM and most likely never have to replace again or do you want to spend $30 for the hose to bypass it.
You will get mixed feelings on deleting the pump or keeping it stock, in the end I'd just do what you feel is the best for you.

I personally enjoy the little extra added comfort of the pump running on 8/10 drives. It can't hurt anything.

Excellent advice

[FlyboyS4]

I have the 034 bypass hose and have not had any issues with it. My after run pump never turned on until I tried the low temp thermo switch, and I didn't think the "lower" temperature that resulted was that much lower. I went back to the standard temp switch and when the after run pump started leaking just removed it.

[zrider91r]

I ended up getting a new one after deleting mine.. Keep it.. Just put it on the firewall if you want easier access to it.

[Dimcorner]

I bought a $7 brass elbow from Lowes and bypassed it.
This was almost 2 years ago.

That said I never ride the car hard and then just stop to park it. I basically cruise at least 1/2 miles (and I mean just granny driving it) before parking.
Figured that air rushing thru the car at 45mph is better than just sitting at standstill with no air going by the radiator and the pump running.

[8520]

I relocated and replaced mine with an oem one. I wish I would have just deleted it as it's never once come on.

I also turbo time my car every time so it didn't really make sense to keep it.

[MDJ]

If you're going to delete it, just watch how you drive the car before stopping. That's all you can do once it's gone.

[S4 00 2.7]

I think I'm also going to delete.

[AWDLAUNCH]

Deleted mine. Total cost $5.

[jibberjive]

If you're going to delete it, skip the 034 hose and just get a $5 brass elbow, size 1”. If you decide to keep it, relocate it or plan on replacing it again when it fails again.

Edit: Updated with pic

Here's the elbow that I got from Lowes to bypass the aux water pump.



Sprayed it with a little black

[zdriver]

Deleted mine drove 10k without issues before selling the car, new motor hasn't toasted the aux pump yet but I'll be deleting this one as well.

[aestivales]

Thanks for all the great info. I don't think I've ever had it come on up to this point and even with the lower temp sensor I don't see how much good it's going to do. I think the cost of a new pump, temp sensor and then the hassle of relocating it, adds up when can just be a bit more careful and not worry.

I'm going to check the hoses and then decide if I can just put an elbow in or spend a little more and replace with a new hose for not much cash.


Sent from my CucinaPro 1447 Crepe Maker

[S4 00 2.7]

I'll delete mine for $5 too if my hoses are in good shape- thanks to Jibber.

[jibberjive]

I'll delete mine for $5 too if my hoses are in good shape- thanks to Jibber.

The key to keeping the hoses in good shape are to only disconnect the hoses at the aux pump, and leave the sides that go on the hard lines alone. The pump ones come off pretty easily, but the hardline ones, not necessarily easily.

[Dimcorner]

Yeah that's the same elbow I used. Except I left it in all it's natural color glory :)
In fact, the T fitting for the plastic coolant tank also has a brass fitting.

It has been over 10,000 miles on this setup without problems (even in Miami heat).

[aestivales]

(even in Miami heat).

good to hear. I'm in Colorado so its 'bad' when it touchs 90 for a couple weeks a year. Put in an order to get the delete hose, new ICs, X34 intake and a pheloic spacer so I'm pumped to get this going.

[rtl5009]

Fyi The phenolic spacers were proven to do nothing at all by flyboy. The data is on his website.

[domantas]

does it trigger CEL when you delete it?

[rtl5009]

Nope.

[Dr. Jekyll]

I deleted mine on my old S4 without any issues. It's still deleted and as far as I know the car is still running great 40k+ miles later. Prior to that I had never heard it turn on, which means the after run coolant temp sensor was probably bad so the thing didn't work for the 80k miles I owned the car. As long as you don't beat the piss out of your car right before you turn it off, you're fine.

I just used a long piece of radiator hose to delete it rather than an elbow. Two potential leak points versus four. Oh and I was able to delete the pump with the IM on the car.

[S4 00 2.7]

This thread makes me want to go out to the car and delete it right now!

[topquarkpc]

deleted since 6k mi ago.
i'm just more cautious about letting the car cool down before i turn off the ignition...

[somebody5788]

Personally I like to know that the pump is used as an after run pump and cools the turbo's and engine block even after the key is shut off.

[ddillenger]

If mine ever goes bad, I'll delete it. Until then...

BTW-the brass elbow solution is sweet. Looks good.

[julex]

I replaced mine with new OEM, got new hoses and put in low temp switch. This way the pump and radiator fan kick in immediately after I stop (prior to temp switch it would never come on).

This is a great system to take care of cooking coolant and oil in turbos so why not retain it?

[AWDLAUNCH]

Its worthless imo, to pump super hot coolant only does nothing. You need to keep the oil flowing so the oil does not bake in there.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[jibberjive]

Fyi The phenolic spacers were proven to do nothing at all by flyboy. The data is on his website.

That test doesn't really prove anything, honestly.

This is a great system to take care of cooking coolant and oil in turbos so why not retain it?

I've just heard of too many people having to replace their new aux water pump within a year or two. If I were to keep it, I'd do the relocation kit and lower temp sensor, but since I'm super anal about my car and cool it down if I stop shortly after boosting, it wouldn't have much benefit for my car, I save $200, and I don't have to take the IM off again in a year to replace a part that failed. That's my logic anywho.

[jibberjive]

Its worthless imo, to pump super hot coolant only does nothing. You need to keep the oil flowing so the oil does not bake in there.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Super hot coolant flowing in reverse through the system is better than having coolant stagnant in the turbine housing that gets so hot that vapor bubbles form in the line. The pump is to stop the vapor bubbles from forming (as well as cool the turbos).

[Meow]

mezza gonna delete this soon me thinks, I haz coolant leak under intake manifold... fracking aux water pump.

[zillarob]

The key to keeping the hoses in good shape are to only disconnect the hoses at the aux pump, and leave the sides that go on the hard lines alone. The pump ones come off pretty easily, but the hardline ones, not necessarily easily.

Lol, I swear the black paint they use on the hardlines is self vulcanizing or something! Tried the manifold on method once, not anymore.

[00SantorinS4]

Lol, I swear the black paint they use on the hardlines is self vulcanizing or something! Tried the manifold on method once, not anymore.

In all honesty, if one wanted to just replace the pump I'd recommend replacing both rubber hoses and clamps as well and be done with it.
That's what I did and everything is mint again.

Also, removing the manifold was a pretty straight forward process, it took a little over 2.5 hours from start to finish (and I had to change a valve cover gasket too!).
I'm not sure why people even bother with trying to remove the pump with the manifold in place.
I could probably replace it again in under two hours if I needed to. Though I doubt it will fail in my time of ownership.

[somebody5788]

Its worthless imo, to pump super hot coolant only does nothing. You need to keep the oil flowing so the oil does not bake in there.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Not nearly as worthless as you would think. In most cases when you shut off a hot engine and let it sit a few minutes, if you get back in it the temperature will actually rise instead of falling, this doesn't happen on the S4's because it keeps the coolant flowing. So basically the oil inside the turbo's will be left at the temp it would be while it's running rather then super heating like it does with no flow.

[julex]

Not nearly as worthless as you would think. In most cases when you shut off a hot engine and let it sit a few minutes, if you get back in it the temperature will actually rise instead of falling, this doesn't happen on the S4's because it keeps the coolant flowing. So basically the oil inside the turbo's will be left at the temp it would be while it's running rather then super heating like it does with no flow.

This. Before the low temp switch if I restarted the car shortly after finishing my last ride (like after getting groceries), the coolant temp would be way high over the normal "middle" mark on the gauge and that in pretty far removed part of cooling system from the actual turbos. God knows how high the temp was in the actual CHRA.


Goal is to keep coolant running inside CHRA casting so that this part doesn't heat up from super hot turbine housing attached to that very part. By keeping the CHRA cool, it prevents two things from happening:

1) Oil baking inside CHRA
2) Coolant bubbling inside CHRA

This system is even more so important to be left operational the larger the turbos and the more heated/larger turbine housings.

Oh, and if you're concerned about external oil feed lines then you shouldn't be. Radiant heat will not bake oil inside unless they are touching the turbo... and if you're really anal about that, just fire sleeve these, relatively easy job.

[rtl5009]

That test doesn't really prove anything, honestly.
.

How so? He measure intake manifold temperatures at the runner at multiple locations w and w/o the spacers. Temps were the same.

You always want data, he gave you data, then u still discredit the test? Cool. Lets hear some reasoning behind it.

[julex]

I dropped phenolic spacers from my build. For one I didn't want to monkey around with trimming them for 2.8 heads (I had 2.7 model on my stage 3 engine), I bet they would chafe like crazy if I tried to cut them. Secondly... that post was very informative and proved there is no benefit. Thirdly, I was afraid that rised manifold would result in hemi throttle ending up even higher and creating contact with the hood or something to that respect. And it does create one more possible point of failure with additional gasket and spacer.

[quattro_silver]

In all honesty, if one wanted to just replace the pump I'd recommend replacing both rubber hoses and clamps as well and be done with it.
That's what I did and everything is mint again.

I'm going to replace the pump/hoses soon but I was wondering what clamps I should use? When I originally ordered the pump from PureMS I just ordered the generic clamps
they sold which have the slits in them. Would these work or are there better clamps I should consider?

[somebody5788]

On my old A4 2.8 I would also notice that if it was sitting still w/o the auxiliary pump for more then 10 minutes it would pass the center of the temp gauge if it was over 90* outside. On that I didn't much care and the connector was melted on it.

[julex]

I'm going to replace the pump/hoses soon but I was wondering what clamps I should use? When I originally ordered the pump from PureMS I just ordered the generic clamps
they sold which have the slits in them. Would these work or are there better clamps I should consider?

Don't agonize on clamps too much. I would advise you to reuse the clamps that are currently on the hoses which are spring type and don't age much.

[quattro_silver]

Don't agonize on clamps too much. I would advise you to reuse the clamps that are currently on the hoses which are spring type and don't age much.

Reuse the clamps that are on there now? I thought those are the one time use clamps..

Either way I like to do a job the right way once and not have to worry about leaks, etc. I've replaced power steering lines with old clamps and it didn't work out so well. So my question
remains.. what clamps are you guys using when replacing the pump/hoses?