Bearing or Pulley Noise?? Need HELP - VIDEO INCLUDED!

[AlyAudi03]

PLEASE help me diagnose this noise. I replaced a valve today that surprisingly quieted my engine a little, only now I hear this noise! I think it is a pulley or bearing, but not sure if it is on the fan or the belt. If you look close to the pulley on the belt, it appears to wobble a little, but I am not sure if this is my problem. Any help on this issue is appreciated!!!

Here are the 2 videos, one at the engine bay, and one inside the cabin:

Cabin:

http://youtu.be/ucoNSmb45Hg

Engine:

http://youtu.be/QsCofzsFJH8



Also: When I say "that air is freaking hot," the fans at the front of the engine kick on and blow all the air up, on my hands. Is it normal for that air to be that hot? It was really hard to keep my hands there and I had to back up and hold the camera at an angle a little to get the shot without getting burned.

[AlyAudi03]

Maybe the tensioner is bad? What tensioner is that?

[old guy]

I have listened to both videos and honestly it's kinda hard to distinguish different sounds. In the second video I do vaguely hear something that could be a timing belt tensioner rattle. I would suggest removing the upper timing belt cover and check to make sure the belt is under full tension. You shouldn't be able to depress the belt more than ¼ to ½". The serpentine belt should also be reasonably tight with a deflection of ½ to ¾".

[AlyAudi03]

Yeah, my engine is a little loud and the microphone on the camera was sensitive. I apologize for that, but thank you for listening to them! :) I included the video in the cabin, so that you could distinguish what sound to listen for in the other video. The sound in the cabin is the exact noise coming off the belt area at the front of the engine, atleast I think that is where it is coming off of. I had tried the push test on the belt before I made this video, but with every push, the tensioner would adjust (move) so it was hard to get an accurate assessment of the tension. What belt is that by the way, I have been searching but haven't had much luck yet. Do you think the tensioner on that belt may be failing??? Any ideas of why that area is so hot?? Sometimes it smells hot but my engine isn't overheating, so I am at a loss on why it smells like that. The fan didn't kick on until I said " that air is freaking hot" in the video. Is that fan supposed to run at all times or intermittently when it detects a certain temperature? Sorry so many questions.

[AlyAudi03]

Oh and I just remembered, the tension the the timing belt better be fine or I will not be a happy camper! I just had that sucker replaced last year at the stealership along with a new thermostat and waterpump. :/

[old guy]

The sound in the cabin is the exact noise coming off the belt area at the front of the engine, atleast I think that is where it is coming off of. I had tried the push test on the belt before I made this video, but with every push, the tensioner would adjust (move) so it was hard to get an accurate assessment of the tension. What belt is that by the way, I have been searching but haven't had much luck yet. Do you think the tensioner on that belt may be failing??? Any ideas of why that area is so hot?? Sometimes it smells hot but my engine isn't overheating, so I am at a loss on why it smells like that. The fan didn't kick on until I said " that air is freaking hot" in the video. Is that fan supposed to run at all times or intermittently when it detects a certain temperature? Sorry so many questions.

Unfortunately I can't hear anything in the cabin video. Crappy laptop speakers. That belt is called the accessory belt. Also called the serpentine belt. It is normal for the tensioner to move when you press on the accessory belt. You should be able to move the belt ½ to ¾" with your thumb. The heat is normal. Consider that your block coolant temperature is around 200° it isn't surprising that the air coming off the radiator is really hot. The fans should cycle on and off as required to maintain the proper block temperature.

[AlyAudi03]

Ok so when I had pushed on the belt before, it moved about 3/4" with the tensioner like you said. I just listened to it again for a little bit, and the noise seems to be coming from higher than the tensioner. I just did a screw driver test on the tip of the tensioner to see if it would stop the noise, and of course it didn't. What else in that area could be making that noise? Its like a chirping pulsing noise, and its steady. Not just every once in a while. Once it starts chirping, it keeps going steady. You can hear it in the cabin, but its not as loud as it is in the engine bay, of course. Also, I heard a different noise, like wooshing/hissing air out of the throttle body area. I had to get a new battery recently, so I need to do an adaptation but am waiting until the weekend is over for my activation email. I just registered it friday. Do you think the adaptation will help the wooshing noise? I got another video and paid attention to the chirping noise around the bottom front of the valve cover and serpentine belt tensioner area, as well as the "wooshing/hissing" noise. I didn't even notice the wooshing noise until I heard it in the video I posted (you watched it). I honestly don't think I have ever heard it until I replaced the PRV valve behind/on top of the valve cover. Ill upload the other video and see if the noises are more clear and if they are I will share it on this thread.

[AlyAudi03]

I just registered my vcds-lite software* friday. Sorry forgot to type what I registered, oops.

[old guy]

How is your idle? Is it steady or erratic? If you have a rough idle the whooshing noise could be a small vacuum leak somewhere. I assume the chirping noise increases with motor speed. The screwdriver test helps to locate the noise, not stop the noise. The sound could be coming from your alternator. Try touching the screwdriver to the alternator housing (stay away from the terminals!) and put your ear on the screwdriver handle. Basically you are using it as a stethoscope to see if you can locate the source of the noise. If it is coming from the alternator this should tell you for sure.

[AlyAudi03]

Alright, I hope you can hear this on your laptop. Crossing my fingers!!!

Hissing sound that seems to be coming from the TB area. The noise that I thought was coming from the tensioner is NOT in this video, only the hissing and whistle:

http://youtu.be/zvkwwbtm8rk

High pitched pulsing, chirping noise that I suspected was coming from the tensioner, or near the bottom front of the valve cover. In the video, I first continue searching the hiss and whistle. Please keep listening for the pulsing chirping noise. It happens about a minute or so into the video. I apologize for the redneck that is apparently driving his truck in circles:

http://youtu.be/tQaWUF2MN44

[AlyAudi03]

i just wanted to see if the noise would stop for a moment when I pressed with the screw driver, not stop it permanently. I found a test that said to push on the tip of the tensioner, looks like a tooth, and see if the noise stops. If it does, the tensioner is going bad and losing the tension on the belt. Anyways, idle is so-so. If I sit at idle for a little while, or sometimes come to a red light after driving for a good amount of time, the pressure(?) drops, and the needle will drop around 100 rpms, or so below normal. Nothing too dramatic, but you can feel it when it drops and see the needle kinda shift below the normal mark. If I have it in park, it will stay fine for a few minutes, if not more, then pressure drop for about a 30 seconds or so, then it will push itself back up again. Freaking weird, but I can feel it, and I don't like it. It makes for a rough stop sometimes at a stop sign or red light. No CEL codes btw. I had codes with my pcv at intake and my crankcase breather tube cracking. Replaced those, then the sjp blew. Typical. After that replacement the computer cleared the codes after some good runs. Its been doing this pressure drop for a while, and its annoying. However, Boost is intermittent. :*( I bought a new DV, because it more than likely needs to be replaced. But want to make sure its not going to cause a problem with anything that needs to be replaced first before I put it in. Its a 007 forge

[AlyAudi03]

I can only hear the chirping noise, at idle, or low rpms, other than that I cannot hear it. I tried to listen for it today while driving to see if it got louder, it did not. I had to get a new battery because it was OLD. I believe it was still the original battery. I accindentally left my lights on all day (9hours), and it drained it. It was around 10 years old and would no longer hold a charge.

[AlyAudi03]

Do you have headphones that you can plug into your laptop? that will help you hear the noises better than listening to them through your laptop speakers.

[old guy]

I can hear the chirping sound a little clearer in your latest video. It sounds like a pulley bearing noise to me. There are three likely suspects: The tensioner pulley that you checked out, the alternator pulley and the idler pulley. did you try the "redneck stethoscope" method on the alternator? Once your motor cools down you can reach down to the idler pulley and see if there is any excess wobble on the shaft (obviously with the motor off:-)

I can hear the "whooshing" sound in the video. I can't really tell what that is. I kinda doubt that it is a vacuum leak because your idle seems reasonably steady but I would recommend performing a boost pressure test just to confirm.

As to the distinct 100 rpm drop: That is probably just the ECM performing a diagnostic test on either the O2 sensor or the evap system. Typically when this occurs you will feel a distinct change in the idle speed that occurs all at once. The idle will remain at that level long enough for the test to complete and then return to the previous rpm. Normal operation.

You mentioned that your boost is intermittent. How so? Does it come and go or just vary in the amount of boost? Do you have a boost gauge?

[AlyAudi03]

Glad that video was better. Ok that makes me feel better about the rpm drop. I wasn't sure if that was related to when I am slowing down from driving higher speeds or stopping at a red light. Its almost like when its in a lower gear it drives jerky instead of smooth. Coasting to a red light, or stop and go traffic is where I notice it jerking the most. Its not hard jerking, but it used to coast at idle very smooth, and now it feels like its coughing as it slows down. I haven't tried the stethoscope yet, but will be doing soon. I just had to drive it so I need to let it cool down first before I do the things you suggested. I don't have a boost guage. I assume it is the boost, because my car "goes" when it wants to. Sometimes when I start it up and drive it, it accelerates fast, smooth, and with ease. Other times, it just acts as if it doesn't want to go anywhere, Like a stubborn teenager with their heels in the mud. It drives like a regular 4 cylinder sometimes, and before it started acting up it drove like a 6 cylinder on crack. Sorry for my bad analogies, but thats the best way I can describe it. We replaced the spark plugs recently with NGK platinum laser plugs. I figured the old ones were burnt up so I checked the plugs and sure enough they were. It's been driving with more power since then, but it still doesn't want to go anywhere when I step on the accelerator. It starts to go, then when it gets above 2000 rpms it shifts gears (?) rpms drop back down to 1500-1800, and power is gone. Also, it seems as if it is "pulling" (like I have a ton of weight on it), until I get up to a higher speed (above 40mph or so) then it will accelerate to 60mph quickly and smoothly. Getting on the interstate from a ramp is hard, because it just does NOT want to speed up! That initial boost I used to feel, that sent everything on top of my ashtray flying towards me, is gone. Is this normal??

[AlyAudi03]

I know this is a little off topic, but this has been like this since I bought the car. I just replaced the prv in the picture. Someone is telling me this is wrong, and that the prv is supposed to be on the TIP. I am after the vin split on the 2003 a4 1.8t. Is this right? I'm very confused now. I have found it on the tip OR the back of the valve cover on my year model. My engine bay is very dirty, don't judge me :/

[A4Maine-iac]

^ Your good. 02 and before are on the TIP.

[old guy]

Sometimes when I start it up and drive it, it accelerates fast, smooth, and with ease. Other times, it just acts as if it doesn't want to go anywhere, Getting on the interstate from a ramp is hard, because it just does NOT want to speed up! That initial boost I used to feel, that sent everything on top of my ashtray flying towards me, is gone. Is this normal??

Definitely not normal. Sounds like you are losing boost intermittently. You can run a boost pressure test to see what shows up. However, I have a feeling the problem is coming from the vacuum/boost signal to the diverter valve. It may even be the source of the whooshing sound.

In order for the turbo to build boost the DV needs to "see" the manifold boost pressure to help keep it closed. If you have a leak in the vacuum/boost line somewhere between the intake manifold and the DV you will only be able to build boost to the level of the internal spring in the DV. An OEM DV is usually good for around 5-6 lbs of boost. To stay closed it then adds the additional pressure from the intake manifold to help keep it closed.

If your car is still in the OEM configuration you will have a vacuum line connecting from the front edge of the intake manifold to the N249 valve mounted underneath the manifold. Then there is a line running from the N249 to the DV. You need to make sure both of those lines are intact. If they are OK you then need to check out the DV.

[AlyAudi03]

Ok I will look at those 2. I looked at the one coming off the intake manifold just a minute ago, and didn't see anything. But I also just eyeballed it. I'll take it off and take a look. I have the DV, just haven't installed it yet. If those lines are ok, I will go ahead and replace the DV sooner rather than later. Is the forge 007 supposed to be installed in reverse??? Or would you not recommend it? I'm sure there is a post somewhere I can look for the installation, just wanted to know your personal opinion.

[AlyAudi03]

Ok just looked into the reversed install some more on the dv. Mainly its for more sound. I listened to the sounds of it in reverse on youtube, and I think it sounds ridiculous when it makes the phish sound. I don't care if anyone hears how fast my car is, I just want it to drive fast. They can find out its capability when they get in the car, or I pass them. @Old Guy, I'll update you on the 2 lines and the screw driver test as soon as I can get to it. Thanks for your help! I may need more :/

[old guy]

Ok just looked into the reversed install some more on the dv. Mainly its for more sound. I listened to the sounds of it in reverse on youtube, and I think it sounds ridiculous when it makes the phish sound. I don't care if anyone hears how fast my car is, I just want it to drive fast. They can find out its capability when they get in the car, or I pass them. @Old Guy, I'll update you on the 2 lines and the screw driver test as soon as I can get to it. Thanks for your help! I may need more :/

Reason for running the DV in reverse: Clicky click

[AlyAudi03]

@Shirley I believe it is the serpentine belt tensioner, if you are referring to the video.

@Old Guy, So the 007 in reverse will hold boost longer? I have read so much on it, that I am so lost on how to install it. I guess I will try it in reverse. Also, Found out my boyfriend had an electric stethoscope this entire time. Used it last night on the alternator housing. Didn't hear the noise coming from there. I put the stethoscope tip on the tensioner pulley area and heard the noise at first, then it I didn't hear it. The noise got really steady, like I have never heard it before, so I played around with the stethoscope. Strangely, I heard the noise the loudest coming from the side of the valve cover closest to the front of the car. What on earth under the valve cover would make that noise??? Would the cam tensioner? I wouldn't think it would make that noise, but I have no idea. I may have to take the serp belt off and run the car to see if the noise is gone. It usually takes a while after it warms up at idle for the noise to start. Will that do anything to my engine? I think I had it running for about 5-10 minutes before the noise started.

[AlyAudi03]

^ Your good. 02 and before are on the TIP.

ok thought so, Thank you!

[old guy]

Whether or not you reverse the DV won’t really have any bearing on your erratic boost. If everything is functioning properly it can make a slight change in the performance but nothing drastic. You still need to check the vacuum/boost signal to the DV as well as the DV itself for proper function.

Removing the serpentine belt won’t hurt anything but it will give you a CEL. While the belt is off be sure to check out the idler pulley. The cam chain adjuster is on the back end of the cams so I would not expect you to hear it from the front of the valve cover.

[AlyAudi03]

I swear everytime we work on my car, we find another problem. This car is turning into a piece of.....work! Too bad I love it. Cleaned the TB and ran the adaptation. Ran the car for 15 min in idle to see if the pulsing chirping noise we suspect is coming from the pulley, would kick on for my dad to hear it. Nope didn't kick on. Not sure if we just needed to run it longer or if for some odd reason, it was related to aligning my TB.

As for the hissing, we narrowed down the area by pushing on some hoses to see if it would change the whistle and hiss pitch/speed. Found out its coming from over by the SJP area, possibly the hose that is connecting to the side of the intake or TB, can't remember right now for some reason, but it's the larger hose on top that runs from the SJP hoses towards the TB. We are going to take apart all those hoses and inspect them later. We ran out of time tonight. While we do that we are going to inspect the other 2 lines as well. We felt around on those 2 and everything looked ok. They still have the original clamps on them, so we will have to take them off, just didn't have time tonight. I'll keep you updated. NOW i have to figure out why my car is whining, when I am backing out of the garage.....amazing all the noises you hear when your car is in a closed area. I don't have a garage at my house :/

[AlyAudi03]

so my car decided to boost again today. I'm not sure if it has just been so long that I am not used to it, or my car was overboosting. When my turbo kicked on I thought I was going to have a heart attack. I felt like I was going to slip off the road. Not kidding, I was zipping around a car when it boosted (they were poking along and my car acts like its choking in a lower gear) when it happened. HOLY CRAP! I didn't think I was going to be able to get back in control of my car. I think my transmission is having issues along with the boost now. I'll post that on another thread. Would appreciate your help on that issue as well. Just want to keep this one open for the bearing noise and possible boost leak.