Engine Flush / Clean

[wolfetone]

Hi

Just wondering has anyone used this stuff? I just bought the car so I was thinking of doing an engine flush/clean before my next oil change. Does this stuff work? Is it trustworthy? Anyone with any experience using this stuff?

If you used it whats your feedback?
From the little I know about it it seems to clean the gunk within the engine, you put it in, drive and then do the oil change to clean this stuff out..

Which would you recommend brand wise

[2.7taudi]

Just keep using good quality synthetic oil. M1 0w40 is great. Go Short intervals and the oil itself will clean the engine.

If you insist on pouring something in the crankcase some people swear by seafoam.


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[RikkiTikki]

I just did a top end cleaning with Berrymann's B12 Chemtool and are going to do a full engine de-sludging with a product called Kreen by Kano Labs. The top end cleaning yielded excellent results. Check out my post for details.

Rick

[RikkiTikki]

I got the engine cleaner yesterday. They threw in a free can of Kroil which is a Liquid Wrench on steroids (penetrating lubricant). BTW, I have been running Mobil 1 0w-40 per the Audi recommendation since I got the car and I still had sludge which the B12 removed. Anyhow, here is a picture of the Bano Labs stuff. Directions are to replace 1 pint of oil with 1 pint of Kreen and monitor since the Kreen will evaporate some. As it evaporates, replace missing volume with oil. I spoke with Dwight at Kano and he said it works with all oils dino and synthetics.



Rick

[Dirtracer603]

My motor is the cleanest ive ever seen inside and it wouldnt be worth using a motor flush. It seems like most Audi's ive seen are this way and I'm not sure why.

[TarlCabot]

I just did a top end cleaning with Berrymann's B12 Chemtool and are going to do a full engine de-sludging with a product called Kreen by Kano Labs. The top end cleaning yielded excellent results. Check out my post for details.

Rick

I have used B12 (gas tank) as well, frequently and love the results, may I ask how (exactly) did you do your top end cleaning ? IE: Did you remove Intake or heads, etc.
Tarl

[Wake]

Just keep using good quality synthetic oil. M1 0w40 is great. Go Short intervals and the oil itself will clean the engine.

I agree. Synthetic oils are great for cleaning and keeping an engine clean. I've had a few engines apart that ran synthetic and how clean they were reassured me that there is no need to use motor flushes.

Motor flushes can also be dangerous. I learned a hard lesson back in my early days of learning about cars. On a used car I didn't know the history of I used a motor flush, 2 weeks later I had no oil pressure and pulled the pan to find the pickup clogged. Turns out the woman who owned the car before me must have overheated the thing pretty badly. I saw coked oil coating the inside of the block and saw how the motor flush was removing that, too quickly as it was flaking off every internal surface. It cost me an engine.

[Packy]

Not all synthetics are equal. Mobil 1 is a group III which is actually NOT synthetic but highly refined crude. ALL Dino oils will sludge. Amsoil is a group IV PAO, redline and most Motul oils are group IV. IV and V are the only true synthetics. Penzoil ultra euro has some group V on it, much better than Mobil 1.

[Packy]

Not all synthetics are equal. Mobil 1 is a group III which is actually NOT synthetic but highly refined crude. ALL Dino oils will sludge. Amsoil is a group IV PAO, redline and most Motul oils are group IV. IV and V are the only true synthetics. Penzoil ultra euro has some group V on it, much better than Mobil 1.

Correction. Redline and Motul are group V, polyolester (not to be confused with polyester). Sorry.

[dparm]

Not all synthetics are equal. Mobil 1 is a group III which is actually NOT synthetic but highly refined crude. ALL Dino oils will sludge. Amsoil is a group IV PAO, redline and most Motul oils are group IV. IV and V are the only true synthetics. Penzoil ultra euro has some group V on it, much better than Mobil 1.

Incorrect:

1. Different grades of Mobil 1 have different percentages of the various basestocks. Look at the MSDS if you don't believe me. M1 0w40 has group II, III, group IV, and group V (as alkylated napthalene). This is the case with any name-brand synthetic. You have to use a mixture of group II through V for optimal performance. The specific percentages of each are often not disclosed because it is proprietary.

2. Group III is synthetic, period. The myth that it is not needs to die.

3. Dino oils do not sludge. A modern dino oil will contain some synthetic content anyway, so the line is blurring there.

4. Amsoil sells oils of various composition, such as group III, IV, and V. Most of them are a mix of those, like any other oil. You have bought into the marketing hook, line, and sinker if you believe their stuff is not group III.

5. Most Motul oils are not group V, they are mostly group III with some IV and V mixed in at varying percentages. Again, look at the MSDS if you don't believe me. Only the 300V grade is high in group V content. Red Line is group V but contains group II - IV for various reasons, such as combating seal swell and as an additive carrier.

6. "Group IV and V are the only true synthetics" is flat out wrong (see #2). The newer "group III+" stuff, such as Visom and XHVI, actually surpass group IV and V in many areas.

7. Only the 5w40 grade of Pennzoil Ultra Euro contains GTL, which is a competitor to Mobil's Visom. It is not necessarily "better", just different.