Motor mount replacement in B7

[AudiVW9307]

Why do I always feel the dealership is trying to screw everyone. Took care in for service and they told me I need to replace passenger side motor mount and to do this the turbo needs to be removed. A whopping $700 labor plus parts. Really? I cannot see anything when I search for motor mount replacement that indicated removal of the turbo?

Is this true anyone?

[fly300kts]

A pita but not true

Phil

[Charles.waite]

The manual states you need to remove the turbo I believe, but not necessary at al.

[CorneliusRox]

If you have a test pipe (easier to get bottom bolt) or a vband downpipe, it would probably be easier TBH, but there are a few threads on it and it has been done from below the car by many members.

[maxxxafterhours]

No not at all. This has been brought up before wtf is with these dealers cant they be a little more smart. You will just need to be a little patient and have the right tool and it can be done under 1-2 hours.


This is what you will need

[CorneliusRox]

wtf is with these dealers cant they be a little more smart.
This is what you will need

They arent stupid. They probably replace it like we do, but if the book called for 'X amount of hours', they will charge you it even if they can finish it quicker. That is how they make money.

[jkash31]

You don't have to remove the turbo but the dealership will charge you for it because that's what it says in their system.

[Charles.waite]

No not at all. This has been brought up before wtf is with these dealers cant they be a little more smart. You will just need to be a little patient and have the right tool and it can be done under 1-2 hours.


This is what you will need

Is that 19mm?

[B7Joe]

Why do I always feel the dealership is trying to screw everyone.

Looks like your question has been answered but with regard to this, think about it. Massive real estate (usually in prime locations), huge storefronts, $hitload of employees, massive inventory, overhead, insurance, etc., etc., and they still need to turn a decent profit. Sort of makes sense why you pay a premium. But yeah, that still doesn't help you feel any better that you're gettin' the sandwich. :D

[fly300kts]

Upper nut is not 19mm. ETKA shows M8 nut so I assume 13 mm wrench. I replaced mine but don't remember

Phil

[Charles.waite]

Upper nut is not 19mm. ETKA shows M8 nut so I assume 13 mm wrench. I replaced mine but don't remember

Phil

Thanks. 19mm seemed WAY too big, but that picture I could faintly make out 19mm. Those flexy wrenches are sweet btw! I need me some...

[bman005]

A pita but not true

Phil

The manual states you need to remove the turbo I believe, but not necessary at al.

and there ya go. I did both mounts on my car in a litte over an hour combined with an oil change....The turbo did not come out.


And yes 13mm

[TFSI]

Be patient when you do this... i wanted to scream while I was changing those mounts.

[Rodmar]

Maybe I should do this LOL....

[RazzleDizzy]

I need to replace my motor mounts soon. The passenger side looks terrible, and Id rather do both at the same time, and I never figured it would take any longer than an hour each doing it myself.

I have been intrigued by the new 034 motorsport billet motor mounts. I wish there was some way of knowing how they feel when installed before I buy them. I do want my drivetrain locked down as much as possible, but what does that do to the cabin experience? I dont mind a stiff ride-I have low rebounding COs and stiff sway bars, but I don't want to feel like san andreas when im cruising.

[maxxxafterhours]

Is that 19mm?

I know its not. Its just the picture of the kind of wrench he needs to help him get between the turbo and the nut. I never said what size he needs

[maxxxafterhours]

They arent stupid. They probably replace it like we do, but if the book called for 'X amount of hours', they will charge you it even if they can finish it quicker. That is how they make money.

I'm sorry Cornelius I'll have to disagree. The two Audi dealeships I've been to both treated me like shit. I know that's how they make their money but when they come up to you and tell you a bunch of crap that you know is not true is scummy/greedy. Don't get me wrong I'm sure there's a bunch of dealerships that are top notch but I haven't found one yet in the Chicago land area. just my 2 cents

[rongeur]

I'm sorry Cornelius I'll have to disagree. The two Audi dealeships I've been to both treated me like shit. I know that's how they make their money but when they come up to you and tell you a bunch of crap that you know is not true is scummy/greedy. Don't get me wrong I'm sure there's a bunch of dealerships that are top notch but I haven't found one yet in the Chicago land area. just my 2 cents

I think you misunderstood what CRox was saying (or I did...). He wasn't vouching for them, rather he was acknowledging their stealershipi-ness by charging for more work than they are actually doing.

[DJ SB]

Is there a DIY for motor mount replacement?

[Charles.waite]

I need to replace my motor mounts soon. The passenger side looks terrible, and Id rather do both at the same time, and I never figured it would take any longer than an hour each doing it myself.

I have been intrigued by the new 034 motorsport billet motor mounts. I wish there was some way of knowing how they feel when installed before I buy them. I do want my drivetrain locked down as much as possible, but what does that do to the cabin experience? I dont mind a stiff ride-I have low rebounding COs and stiff sway bars, but I don't want to feel like san andreas when im cruising.

I don't think the billet mounts would be appropriate for anything short of a dedicated track car. Honestly I bet the vibrations from them would be atrocious in a street driven car. But they're designed for the track, not the street

[FraggyA4]

I'm sorry Cornelius I'll have to disagree. The two Audi dealeships I've been to both treated me like shit. I know that's how they make their money but when they come up to you and tell you a bunch of crap that you know is not true is scummy/greedy. Don't get me wrong I'm sure there's a bunch of dealerships that are top notch but I haven't found one yet in the Chicago land area. just my 2 cents

Laurel Audi of Westmont is a decent dealership out here in the suburbs. One of the techs there tried to do everything that he could to get me the new cam and fuel pump that came with the cam follower recall. (I didn't get it) but he has never screwed me and has been straight with me since day one.

Anyways, I used a stubby rachet and managed to get my off but it was a PITA.

Is there a DIY for motor mount replacement?

There's a B6 DIY that works for us.

[typeslone]

The top nuts on the mounts are 13mm. Pay attention to the orientation of the mount and how it sits on the lower bracket.

I changed mine last month. It took me a a hair over an hour to change both mounts and readjust my poly snub mount on the lift.

[IKE20VA4]

So I am trying to confirm some more information on my engine mounts before I order them up.

1) Do I need electrical connectors on the left side one? Reason being, ETKA has 2 part numbers for the left side for my model year showing and I can't tell which mine would be.

2) If it does have the electric, do I need to keep those or do they serve no purpose?

Info from other threads...

The 034's would require resistors, but if your car is a 2.0T, it shouldn't have the sensors in the first place. Only the V8 cars do as far as I know.

My 2.0T has sensors - didn't check the right side yet but the left does for sure.

I believe the B5S4 mounts are fluid filled, B5 RS4 mounts are not fluid filled, and still pretty inexpensive.

Info from ETKA...

B7 A4 4cyl BPG engine code:


B7 RS4:


B5 S4:


B5 RS4:


From B5 to B7, they all seem to be some variation of 8D0 199 379 (B5) or 8E0 199 379 (B7) for left and right. The only numbers that change are the last letters in most cases but ones with electric option have different p/n's for left and right since the right is not offered with electric.

When I was doing the timing belt last weekend I tried to see if there was an electrical connector on the left side but couldn't be sure... Will it throw a code if I throw in a mount without a electrical connector?

Couldn't decide between posting a new thread or just adding to this one. This one had a good title, and other good info, so I chose to add on in hopes of not scattering all the information on the B7 engine mounts across 20 different threads...

[konarider94]

I believe the electric one was only used with the auto trans for our cars. I am very happy with my 034 street density mount btw. And I wish i could have seen this and bought that flex head ratchet wrench before i tried this. Oh well I got it done anyway.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-...gine/ES436344/
this is the electric mount and they give some specific vin information

[PNW Avant]

Why do I always feel the dealership is trying to screw everyone. Took care in for service and they told me I need to replace passenger side motor mount and to do this the turbo needs to be removed. A whopping $700 labor plus parts. Really? I cannot see anything when I search for motor mount replacement that indicated removal of the turbo?

Is this true anyone?

They quoted me $1044 for both sides.

[Charles.waite]

My understanding is the electronic mounts are Pointless. Im sure they do something, but im not sure what they do is very necessary. A smoothly running engine coupled with new mounts shouldn't have any issues. You can either buy 034's error cancellers or whip up your own with a resistor, though I don't n know the specifics.

The electrical mounts only came on the drivers side on tiptronic cars. I'd be inclined to think that any mount from the b5 on up would work just fine, though the v8 engine mounts might be different. I know the v6 and i4 mounts are all physically interchangeable. Hell even a b5 passat mount will work. I've got some 8D0xxxxxxK mounts sitting in my basement destined for my b6. They were b5s4 mounts.

[konarider94]

They quoted me $1044 for both sides.

Wow i would change these all day for $1k a pop.

[PNW Avant]

No kidding lol. It was on the service sheet for the last service the previous owner took the car in for. "Parts in stock, parts and labor quoted $1044". No thanks!!!!!!!

[IKE20VA4]

No kidding lol. It was on the service sheet for the last service the previous owner took the car in for. "Parts in stock, parts and labor quoted $1044". No thanks!!!!!!!

Sweet god! No thanks indeed!!


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[IKE20VA4]

The electrical mounts only came on the drivers side on tiptronic cars.

Nice to know! That's what I needed to know. I'm 6spd so no elec for me.


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[B72011]

People pay these prices all day too! Makes me laugh sometimes now when I see a German car--my immediate thought is -that guy has some money, my second thought is--he must be decent with a wrench.

Wow i would change these all day for $1k a pop.

[IKE20VA4]

People pay these prices all day too! Makes me laugh sometimes now when I see a German car--my immediate thought is -that guy has some money, my second thought is--he must be decent with a wrench.

Yeah and it also makes you laugh when you see one for sale that days "dealer services". I think hmm they do have some money!


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[B72011]

Those are the ones you pick up! A bunch of those services and records can turn a scary gamble into more of calculated gamble.
I remember I called on a car--a B6, sounded great 1K less than anything else, I was like where's the car? Their answer was a ghetto city here in SoCal---I was like yeah.........ok, call you later. Hahhahha No chance. I have a new policy--I'm only purchasing cars from well to do people with service records---its your only decent insurance policy with BMW's and Audi's. How many 90's/2000's German cars do you see driven around the city by some ghetto rats? Those make it to the market eventually--you can be damn straight sure they aint getting no maintenance!

Yeah and it also makes you laugh when you see one for sale that days "dealer services". I think hmm they do have some money!


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[IKE20VA4]

Haha, true!

That is why I always have the car inspected.


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[konarider94]

How many 90's/2000's German cars do you see driven around the city by some ghetto rats? Those make it to the market eventually--you can be damn straight sure they aint getting no maintenance!

Thats why I got a low mileage B7...they cant afford them yet and havent trashed them. But in all honesty i dont see that many ghetto german cars. Ex police cars are all the rage here in the ghetto, which is kind of ironic if you ask me.

[IKE20VA4]

So does everyone seem to find that this tool is the "cure all" to getting to the passenger side mount's top nut? I got down under the car today to take a look and see what I could do but couldn't get to that top nut on the passenger side with either my 1/4" small 13mm socket w/ swivel adapter or a 13mm wrench. There was just not enough clearance between the turbo heat shield and that top nut.

I'm working off of a few of the B6 DIY threads and trying the "easy method" of undoing the top and bottom nuts and then just jacking up the motor until they fall out.

Any help/tips/tricks would be appreciated!

[gdlkn84as]

I used a stubby ratcheting wrench but no flex head. I put my car on jack stands. then I jacked the enigne about an inch. this allowed me pry back the heatshield just a bit, then i was carefully able to place the ratcheting end on the bolt on top of the mount, guiding it blind and only with my fingers. I then used an 1/2 in socket extension to break the thread loose. Did the reverse to tighten her down.

as far as the bottom side, i lowered the mount brackets. it wasnt as difficult as some have made it out to be... just my $.02

I also used the B6 diy as well as the instructions that came with my 034s

[IKE20VA4]

Finally got the right tool for the job and did my engine mounts today. When I took off the driver side mount it had fluid sloshing around in it. The turbo side mount was pretty quiet, no sloshing.

This ended up being the tool that made it possible for me. The 13mm stubby wrench w/ ratcheting closed end.



Low engine.


Jacked up engine.


Turbo side mount with engine jacked up.


Driver side mount with engine jacked up.


View from under turbo side mount to show why you need the stubby.


View from top of turbo side for same reason.


Old vs new shots.






Old v. Old. Turbo side has the yellow.

[Sanjman]

I put on RS4 motor mounts which are apparently stronger/stiffer and a direct fit.

Didn't make the idle harsher at all either.

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[IKE20VA4]

Yeah, I don't think I mentioned which mounts these were but they are the B5 S4 mounts that ECS sells. Noticed that the engine seems smoother/quieter since the install and shifts are a little smoother and less clunky. Happy to finally have this done. I tried 3 different times, the first 2 without that stubby wrench and it wasn't possible to get that bolt under the turbo without the stubby.

I put on RS4 motor mounts which are apparently stronger/stiffer and a direct fit.

Didn't make the idle harsher at all either.

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