B8 Motor mount replacement 2.0T

[van462]

Symptoms- dash vibe at idle, a "thunk" noise when suddenly letting off the throttle

Inspection- With the lower engine belly pan removed look below the mounts for a puple/black fluid that will usually stain the cross member. My actual mount didn't feel oily at all. (Used car that likely had the mount break some time ago.) From the top side, just below the turbo/cat area is a fabric heat shield. Lift and inspect; mine was visibly torn.

Tools-
T15 torx
8mm triple square
14mm triple square or 18mm socket for the engine mounting bolt
16mm socket for frame mount bolts
17mm for wheel lugs
breaker bar with assorted extentions

Parts
08r198381b, this is a set that includes 2 identical mounts as well as stamped metal support brackets. (I only replaced the right side mount) If someone has the part number for a single mount PM me and I will include it as well.

Lemforder (likely the OEM supplier) pn 347501 right and 3474401 left I do not know the difference. The Audi set I bought the mounts had the same pn stamped on them and only the support bracket was different.

This is the fabric heat shield that you can lift to inspect mount.
Moved available photos to google drive, some may be left out.


Only my right side mount was broken. I was able to replace the mount just putting the one side up on a jack stand. Once lifted remove wheel and remove or the fender liner. I left the top most mounting clips in place and just folded the fender liner above the brake caliper. Disconnect the orange connector that goes to the motor mount. Support the engine with a jack and remove the bolts shown. The bracket nut will allow a wire harness support bracket to be removed to help in removing the mount later. My engine bolt was really tight, impact gun did nothing to it. I ended up using a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on it. I was very impressed by how well the triple square bits fit the hardware.



On the bottom side the motor mount is secured to the frame and cross member using a stamped steel bracket. These 2 8mm triple square bolts are the last remaining hardware secure both the motor mount and support. After all the hardware was removed I jacked the motor up 1 to 2 inches. Slide the stamped steel bracket toward the motor and it comes out rather easily. The motor mount comes out from the bottom and sliding it forward.



Engine bolt showing it has provisions for an 18mm socket or a 14mm triple square



Instillation is the reverse. I used a crowbar from the wheelwell to help lift the mount so that I could get the hardware aligned. I slid in 2 long bolts securing the mount to the frame. I then slipped the stamped metal support in place; then installed the 2 shorter 8mm triple sq bolts. Tighten the 2 long bolts I slid in earlier. Lowered the jack supporting the motor and installed the engine mount bolt. Installed harness support bracket, secured harnesses and reconnected the electrical connection on the mount.

The bolt through the engine mount to the engine mount bracket is torqued to 90 Nm. The bolts through the subframe into the engine mounts are torqued to 55 Nm.



I'm sure the left side is similar.

[dracolnyte]

nice diy write up

[TCHUN003]

Beautiful!

[jfo]

Thanks! As an avid DIY'er, I'll file this for future reference.

[MilesM]

Can a mod edit the title to include DIY?

Appreciate the write up, may come in handy for me in the near future.

[Wah]

Great stuff!

[BMWBig6]

Nice write up. So why did your mount fail? How many miles are on your B8? (When do these typically wear out?)

[van462]

Fairly certain the car suffered some undisclosed damages when I bought it. There is a plastic support in the right wheel that helps hold the fender liner that is not there, as well as some rub damage on the fender liner. The front bumper which has too good of paint and overspray on the intercooler, I think it took a right front hit at some point in its life. Between a PCV going bad and a loose swaybar issue, I missed he 30 day window for them to cover it. 57K on the car

[a4magnet]

How do you notice if the motor mount is bad? Does it make a noice?

[van462]

Yes I first heard a thunk sound when I let off the gas, but only if I was accelerating fairly quick. That was for the turbo side mount being bad. I believe that engine torque and rotation keep down pressure on that during acceleration. When you let off driveline drag puts a reverse effect on it and the mount would go metal to metal on the top side. If the right side mount had failed I think I would have heard it on acceleration. I didn't have much dash rattle that others have had but then again these cars almost always have some dash vibration on a cold motor start. Its an easy visual inspection. The other telltale sign is the purple/black fluid that is inside them. It stains the area below the mount when they leak.

[DJ_AudiA4]

how long did the job take?

[van462]

It's been almost 2 years, but I recall around 2 hours for the one side. It was a bit slower trying to do the job and document it at the same time.

[AWDLover]

Around 2 hours for me as well on the passenger side. I think the driver side would go a little faster as there is more room on that side

[belzebutt]

How much is the part?

[DJ_AudiA4]

Order my engine mounts, i was trying to wait for someone to come out with an upgraded version. My mounts were way to shot and if i'm gonna be running on the track i need them replaced. i'll probably get to it next week.

[oascom]

034 said they are working on motor mounts. Hope they release it soon

[DJ_AudiA4]

i can't wait any loner the passenger side has been cracked and the driver side just cracked/tore

[034Motorsport]

This is a great DIY writeup! If your stock mounts are shot, I'd highly recommend replacing them with our upgraded Density Line Engine Mounts, which were just released after over a year of development, prototyping, and testing.

You can learn more about them here: Motor Mount, Street Density Line, B8 Audi A4/S4, A5/S5, Q5/SQ5

[A4 Centaur]

Great write up!

Thanks much!

[Fox Fader]

Thought I was getting away from all this engine mount stuff after getting the Saab gone. I guess European engineers don't see the need for quality mounts.

[alexrew22]

Sir, are you able to tell me where you ordered these from? How much were they as well?

[shaunm82]

Sir, are you able to tell me where you ordered these from? How much were they as well?

For the ones 034 posted above:

http://store.034motorsport.com/motor...s5-q5-sq5.html

Run $195 per mount.

[van462]

The write up is before the 034 mounts were available. If i had the option then I would have gone for the 034 mounts. I ordered from an online audi dealership. I paid somewhere in the $400 to $450 range for a pair of mounts. I only replaced the one mount and saved the side. Every torn mount I have heard of is on the turbo side. I suspect the heat put off by the turbo doesn't help its lifespan. I also recommend the 14mm triple square over the 18mm socket for removing the engine bolt. Its impressive how stable it felt even when using a 4 foot breaker bar to get break the torque.

[Aloha-boy]

Wow thanks for this DIY write up! The dealer just quoted my wife $1200 to replace both!

[034Motorsport]

Wow thanks for this DIY write up! The dealer just quoted my wife $1200 to replace both!

Tell her you can do it for at least $50 less!

[poisonouschimp]

If anyone needs a replacement OEM mount let me know. I just went through replacing the torn one lol

[Aloha-boy]

Tell her you can do it for at least $50 less!

Dammit!!! You are a freaking genius though! I will be placing an order through you're website soon! Actually, she's going to San Jose next week, can she pick one up, are the motor mounts in stock?

[034Motorsport]

Dammit!!! You are a freaking genius though! I will be placing an order through you're website soon! Actually, she's going to San Jose next week, can she pick one up, are the motor mounts in stock?

PM sent!

[a5weiss]

HI Guys,

I am 99% sure my driver side just ruptured on my 2009 A5. The passenger side which was more visible looked dry to the mechanic but we didn't see any fluid (possibly already leaked out??) from that side. The driver side just started dripping after a weekend trip where we drove through some bridge work on a major highway and really got slammed hard a few times on potholes.

I still want to try and get one of those snake cameras to look down in there and see if its ruptured. Is there anything else in that area that could be leaking red fluid?

It was not leaking alot, its a small spot the next morning but the plastic scrape cover under the car seemed to be soaked in something so i dont know how much really came out. It does not seem to be leaking any more but im trying not to drive much.

Any one know part numbers for new mounts and will this tutorial be the same for a 2009 A5 3.2v6?

[Dub_prime]

HI Guys,

I am 99% sure my driver side just ruptured on my 2009 A5. The passenger side which was more visible looked dry to the mechanic but we didn't see any fluid (possibly already leaked out??) from that side. The driver side just started dripping after a weekend trip where we drove through some bridge work on a major highway and really got slammed hard a few times on potholes.

I still want to try and get one of those snake cameras to look down in there and see if its ruptured. Is there anything else in that area that could be leaking red fluid?

It was not leaking alot, its a small spot the next morning but the plastic scrape cover under the car seemed to be soaked in something so i dont know how much really came out. It does not seem to be leaking any more but im trying not to drive much.

Any one know part numbers for new mounts and will this tutorial be the same for a 2009 A5 3.2v6?

The fluid in the motor mount should be a viscous black liquid not red. Red is typically coolant. If it ruptured it will slowly work its way out. Quick check on ECS tuning and they are the same, factory part number is 8R0198381L x 2, or the 034 mounts that are $50 a pair less.

[AllroadCorbin]

I've always wondered if my mounts are shot. 71k miles now and the drivetrain slop is getting worse. I already have the 034 trans mount and red apikol rear diff one and they didnt really do anything for me (that I know of). In traffic when I am coasting and then engage the throttle again I have the worst thud sensation....I notice it when letting off too but not as badly. I'm gonna check the mounts for leaks. Does this sound like tell-tale mount issues?

[Dub_prime]

I've always wondered if my mounts are shot. 71k miles now and the drivetrain slop is getting worse. I already have the 034 trans mount and red apikol rear diff one and they didnt really do anything for me (that I know of). In traffic when I am coasting and then engage the throttle again I have the worst thud sensation....I notice it when letting off too but not as badly. I'm gonna check the mounts for leaks. Does this sound like tell-tale mount issues?

I have the same parts installed but on a manual and I have the same issue, The passenger side mount below the turbo has the highest failure rate from what I can see. I have the 034 mounts in the garage waiting for install but I just haven't had enough time to do them (they have been in since they were released...) Hope to have them installed this weekend.

[034Motorsport]

The fluid in the motor mount should be a viscous black liquid not red. Red is typically coolant. If it ruptured it will slowly work its way out. Quick check on ECS tuning and they are the same, factory part number is 8R0198381L x 2, or the 034 mounts that are $50 a pair less.

Beat me to the part numbers, doh!

As for the install, the 3.2L V6 motor mount R&R process will be a bit more involved, and more similar to the B8 Audi S4 3.0 TFSI Engine Mount Replacement DIY.

[AllroadCorbin]

I have the same parts installed but on a manual and I have the same issue, The passenger side mount below the turbo has the highest failure rate from what I can see. I have the 034 mounts in the garage waiting for install but I just haven't had enough time to do them (they have been in since they were released...) Hope to have them installed this weekend.

Let me know if it makes a difference. I heard the 034 ones made the idle have a ton of vibration (too hard). Curious to hear how you like them though

[Dub_prime]

Let me know if it makes a difference. I heard the 034 ones made the idle have a ton of vibration (too hard). Curious to hear how you like them though

Will do, I'm sure with an Auto they would be rougher on yours (it's all relative I'm used to a 2002 GTI on stiff coils with poly mounts soo...)

[a5weiss]

Any way i can get a look in there for the leak? I want to be sure its the mounts before i replace them , the fluid was darkish but def. had red tint to the cleaner fluid i found.

[Dub_prime]

Any way i can get a look in there for the leak? I want to be sure its the mounts before i replace them , the fluid was darkish but def. had red tint to the cleaner fluid i found.

With the weight on the mount I'm not sure if you can... mine was leaking through the subframe under the mount when I saw the fluid. I looked like old hydraulic fluid, kind of a dark gray/black and very oily.

[a5weiss]

The fluid was definitely red, here is a photo i took of the leak spots, i just couldnt get a good look at the source of the leak because the engine compartment is so fucking tight!!!

http://imgur.com/gGTmza1

[Dub_prime]

The fluid was definitely red, here is a photo i took of the leak spots, i just couldnt get a good look at the source of the leak because the engine compartment is so fucking tight!!!

http://imgur.com/gGTmza1

It's definitely coming from the right area.

[Fox Fader]

I still need to get around to checking mine.