Glad you sorted that out. Too bad a dead FP shows no codes whatsoever. Be prepared to handle a laundry list of future repairs:
- Thermostat housing. If plastic, it will FAIL catastrophically. Replace with alloy S4 housing.
- Coolant Temperature Sensor. Replace with GREEN OEM one, not the China-made, Meyle copy!
- N80 Evaporative Purge Valve
- Both front(pre-Catalytic) Oxygen sensors
- Coolant After-run pump/switch
- EGT Sensors. You will get short-to-ground(DOA) codes and lean/rich codes. Passenger side is easy to change. Driver side will have you swearing like a sex-starved sailor. Good thing you can fully DELETE them out with these resistors:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/class...gs/28162.phtml
- Airsprings. Fronts usually go bad, by 170k/mi MAX. Rears almost never do, because they support such little weight.
- Throttle body boot. Car will run like crap, when accelerating.
- Fuel Filter. Hopefully, this was changed when the fuel pump was done too.
- Auxiliary Cooling Fan/Fan Module
- Mechanical, belt-driven fan. Check for cracks, NOW. When this explodes inside the engine bay - it leaves no survivors!
- A/C G65 high-pressure switch. Intermittent A/C cutoff(random ECON mode) is characterized by this failure.
- Coolant reservoir tank/ cap. Replace the yellowing original ASAP.
- Boost pressure "Y" hoses. If you hear a howl between 3000-4000rpm - this is the problem...they get torn easily.
- Coil packs/ICM modules/Spark plugs. Common causes of engine misfires.
- Crank Position Sensor. Hard start/no start is also caused by failure of this important sensor.
I'll STOP HERE....
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