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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    The 2.0T FSI Engine Build Thread

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    The purpose of this thread will be to help everyone who is planning on going BAT and building their engine to become a bit more informed. I will try to keep this thread updated as best as I can. Information regarding this thread should be limited to BPG,BPY, and BWT engines, or their improvement by adding similar 4 banger engine parts. There is alot of information about building this engine on this forum but it is so scattered between builds and the general forum that I think its important to put it all together so we can have a useful resource. PM me any information you would like to have added with a few resources to validate its credibility.

    Failures:
    Cam Follower - The HPFP breaks wears through the Cam Follower, and can cause bits of metal to go throughout your engine as well as ruin your camshaft/HPFP/ Cam Follower. Covered under Warranty until 120k/10yrs. Discussion: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ollower%28s%29 DIY :http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...IY-in-PDF-form

    Rocker Arms - At High RPM's the rocker arms have been known to pop off and cause engine seizure as well as bending valves and damaging pistons. This happens most frequently past 6500 Rpms. This happens due to the hydraulic lifters that are under the rocker arms. The lifters bottom out at these high speeds and cause the rocker clip to break, sending the rocker loose into the engine to cause problems. With the Ferrea lifter shims the lifter is simulated as pumped even when the lifter is depressed so that it can no longer bottom out, this prevents rocker clips from breaking.

    Variator - The exhaust camshaft variator has been known to fail and lead to catastrophic failure. Audi has put out a revised part number that should not fail.

    Sheared Crankshaft Timing Belt Gear - The 2.0t crankshaft timing belt gear slips off of the crankshaft itself at power above 350hp. If you plan on making more than 350hp, plan on adding Integrated Engineering's Dowel pin kit to your shopping list. http://www.intengineering.com/fsi-2-...l-pin-kit.html


    Engine Modification:

    1.8T oil pump - Required precision machine work to create two new holes in the block. Eliminates the Balance Shaft assembly, reduces the rotational mass by reduction of the Balance Shaft, and with increased volume, allows you to run 2 qts extra oil. In addition to having 2 qt's extra this allows you to extend oil change intervals and it will keep your oil slightly cooler.

    Balance Shaft Delete - Requires taking a dremel to the balance shafts and cutting them off. Reduces rotational mass, but does not allow for additional oil capacity. Keep in mind the balance shafts spin at 2 times the speed of the crank. This means at 8k Rpms the balance shafts are spinning 16k rpm.
    Also absolutely make sure to balance your rotating assembly at a machine shop. Otherwise you will feel harsh vibrations from an unbalanced engine missing the balancing assembly. Make sure to not remove the sensor wheel on the crankshaft, removing the screws that hold it will ruin the sensor wheel and you will have to replace it. Plus there is just no reason to remove it unless it is harmed.

    Thing's you might not have known
    Cylinder Wall Coating - The 2.0T FSI engine has a special graphite coating on the inner cylinder walls. This coating helps to reduce cylinder wear. Honing or boring will remove this coating. Unless you are absolutely positive on increasing your bore, then run Wossner 82.5mm pistons. If you are deciding on boring, 83 or 83.5mm pistons will work from either JE, Mahle (OEM piston manufacturer), or Wossner.

    Piston Metal - There are two types of alloys that pistons are made out of for our cars. 2618 and 4032. Mahle and JE make 2618 alloy pistons for our cars. 2618 is an alloy that contains less than 5% silicon, usually about 3% However in some cases no silicon is used. Whereas the 4032 pistons from Wossner have around 11% silicon. Silicon % is important because it determines a few of the characteristics of a piston. For example a higher silicon % piston will expand less with heat because silicon expands less than most any aluminum alloy. A low silicon piston will expand more as the engine warms up, which requires larger clearances so that when the piston warms up and expands there is no damage to the piston or cylinder walls. This can often lead to piston slap, a loud "slapping" noise as the engine warms up since the piston hasn't expanded there is some wobble room for the piston when its cold and it can be a bit noisy. These are the disadvantages of a 2618 piston vs a high silicon 4032 piston. The advantages are that because silicon is not as tough as aluminum, you lose strength in the piston as you increase silicon content. So while a 2618 piston may be noisy or you may have to wait for it to heat up properly, the advantage is that it is much stronger than a 4032 piston. This isn't to say that a 4032 piston is weak, but rather that under severe predetonation and misfires, a 2618 piston will be much better than a 4032. On the other hand its important to note that the pistons in the B7 A4 are forged, and we can run upwards to 30 psi on the stock pistons. So naturally purchasing an aftermarket 4032 piston that is stronger than stock pistons should yield sufficient power for most BT builds. When I spoke with both IE and Wossner, both companies had told me they had seen their pistons in builds in excess of 700hp. The FSI market has not reached that point so I think its safe to say that running a 4032 will not be a problem.

    Compression - The primary objective of engine building is to modify an engine to be capable of handling the power that will be added. For this reason it is a good idea to lower your compression if you are building a block for a BT build. A lower compression rate allows you to run higher boost without detonation. In an engine running high boost with a high compression ratio detonation can occur because pressure inside the cylinder walls increases so rapidly and powerfully that the air and fuel mixture can ignite by the heat generated by the pressure. This causes an off sync combustion, detonation.

    Rotational mass reduction. - Reducing weight is a great alternative to adding power to your car. For example many people replace the dual mass flywheel found at the back of our crankshafts with a single mass flywheel so that Rpms can rise and drop faster, it allows the engine to move quicker. The same concept applies to the rotsting mass inside the engine. The crank is the heart of the engine, and everything attached to it directly or indirectly is slowing it down. For example, indirectly, the air conditioning attached to the serpentine belt requires power from the crank to rotate it and power the air conditioning unit. However this slows the engine down and robs it of power because it could be spinning more freely and faster if the air conditioning pulley was not attached to the engine. The same concept applies to the balance shaft delete. When you cut the balance shaft gears you are removing a weight that would otherwise slow down the engine. While the balance shaft/oil pump gears still attach to the crank by the oil pump chain, the rods that hold the balance shafts spin freely now because the balance shaft gears are no longer connecting and creating a frictional counter force to slow the crankshaft. This information is important because it applies to pistons and rods as well. The heavier your pistons and Rods are the slower your engine will spin. Ideally you want a perfect combination between strength and weight. This will give you a strong quick revving engine.

    Int Engineering Rifle Drillng - Integrated Engineering offers you the opportunity to have a tiny passageway drilled through IE rods, it helps lubricate bearings better as well as cool, for $100 its well worth it.


    Stroker kits:
    The 2.0T has a great stroke ratio, However other options do exist.
    2.1 L - For this kit you need an mk4 ALH Diesel crankshaft, best luck is a junkyard or possibly VWvortex.

    2.2 L- For this kit you need the Eurospec 2.2 crankshaft as well as custom pistons and rods. The Block will also have to be swapped out for a Diesel ALH block.


    Running 1.8T parts on the 2.0T
    Fueling issues - Due to the fueling constraints that so many FSI builds run into, a switch in heads to a 1.8T 20v(b6) head can be a great help with fueling. With the 1.8t head you eliminate the precision of FSI fueling, but it also removes the fueling constraints. The 20V head will bolt up into place our 16V head goes, the only issue is finding the correct sized timing belt.

    Thrust washers - The B6 cylinder block(06B) and b7 cylinder block (06f) have minor differences in that the 06f block has the cylinder wall coating. However the 06F does not have the thrust washers around the third main bearing that the 06A block has. This lack of thrust washers makes the 06F block more susceptible to "crank walk". Edit, apparently some blocks do have these thrust washers, while not all 06f blocks do.





    Feel free to PM me and I will add more information to this thread or correct it. I am still in the process of learning alot about this engine so I am sure I may have some incorrect info.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    Thank you; this is a great list.
    - Eric

    Two quickies.
    1. the cam shaft doesn't shear, it is the timing belt gear on the crank that slips at high power when the keyway shears. The dowel prevents this by adding a shear pin through the gear.
    2. spoke to the guys at IE, and they actually recommend oversized pistons. They said the 2.0 FSI has a sloppy core from the factory, which is why the car has oil consumption issues. Putting an oversized piston and a fresh bore on the block seals this up.
    Epy

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings adamc514's Avatar
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    Nice thread
    Rip on it...

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings CorneliusRox's Avatar
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    Wow, not bad Mec! This should be a sticky if it gets a bit more information!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings crazytex21's Avatar
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    I like it Mec. As a guy prepping his build, this should really come in handy.
    tex lee

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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Good stuff Martin. When you back in town?
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! JR ill be up there probably tonorrow and then sept 7 until November

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings abzoni's Avatar
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    thanks mec, really helpful!
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    We need to get someone in here who has worked with the 1.8T and 2.0T engines. aka OKswerve or RAI.

    I've been giving some serious thought to selling my spare block and getting a 1.8T block, keep the 2.0T crankshaft, get the 1.8t oil pump, and possibly a 1.8T head, although probably not the head at this point.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings bman005's Avatar
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    Which MK4 TDI crank for the stroker? ALH or BEW engine code? Both are 1.9L but the two cranks are definitely not the same
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I think dowel pinning is only necessary if stiffer valve springs are used because of the higher strain it puts on the crank keyway

    Balance shaft delete of either option is necessary not only to reduce mass, but because those balance shafts spin at two times the rpm of the motor and if your planning on raising the rev limiter thats also a potential failure point

    The difference in the thrust washers is on the 06a blocks there are provision for mounting thrust washers on the block itself and the number 3 main cap which completly wraps the crank, on our 06f block we do not have thrust washers on the main cap only the block only half way surrounding the crank, I dont think this is a huge weakness and have pesonally only read about one or two crank walk issues

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    That's a very good question, and I forgot to list that. ALH though

    List of engine build parts just in case they are ever needed.

    (1)Repair Set for camshaft adjuster with housing. 06F 198 088 D $640
    (1)Rear timing cover gasket 06D 103 121 B
    (10)Headbolt Washer 06D 103 377
    (1)Cylinder Head Gasket 06F 103 383 G
    (10)Headbolt 06D 103 385 D
    (1)Valve cover Gasket 06F 103 483 D
    (1)PCV valve cover gasket 06F 103 483 E
    (5)Intake manifold upper stud N 014 555 5
    (4)Intake manifold lower stud 06F 103 397
    (7)Cam timing cover screws N 101 243 08
    (1) Cam timing chain 06D 109 229 B
    (1) Cam follower 06D 109 309 C
    (1) engine timing belt 06D 109 119 B
    (1)timing belt tensioner 06D 109 243 B
    (1) Lower roller 06D 109 244
    (1) Upper roller 06D 109 244 E
    (1) Water pump 06F 121 011
    (1) Thermostat 06D 121 111 G
    (1) Intake manifold gasket 06F 129 717 D
    (1) Exhaust manifold gasket 06F 253 039 F

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings swoardrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    Cylinder Wall Coating - The 2.0T FSI engine has a special coating on the inner cylinder walls. This coating helps to reduce cylinder wear. Honing or boring will remove this coating. Unless you are absolutely positive on increasing your bore, then run Wossner 82.5mm pistons. (EPY I will contact a few more shops about this, since I have heard one thing from Ray and you have heard another from IE.)
    If our cylinders use a coating like Nikasil, or something similar, then that coating should definitely not be removed. The coatings are there for very important reasons. Some of these coating can take a certain amount of honing, but caution is needed when doing so. Race cars, motorcycles, and Porsche, have been using these coatings on their cylinders for years.
    '06 2.0T S-line Tip

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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings CorneliusRox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoardrider View Post
    If our cylinders use a coating like Nikasil, or something similar, then that coating should definitely not be removed. The coatings are there for very important reasons. Some of these coating can take a certain amount of honing, but caution is needed when doing so. Race cars, motorcycles, and Porsche, have been using these coatings on their cylinders for years.
    I have never done much research on the coating, but it is like how you anodize things where it goes all on the surface and then it sinks into the metal a bit, or is it more like a completely different metal like a sleeve in there?

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    I am boring that coating right off of my walls!! :) oh ya. 83mm pistons going in with a half mil pver spec for my future high boost GTX application.
    Eric
    Epy

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    Veteran Member Four Rings viziers's Avatar
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    I am already bored to 83.5mm



    vizi
    05.5 B7 A4 longest running with no motor issues at 373whp

    Car:Custom JRP Mani & DP, GT3076, FWD to AWD conversion, IE 144/20, Wossner 83.5mm 9.2:1Cr, CM FX400, Ported Head Ferrea valves, EJ VC, EJ S3 Dv Flange, Custom STASIS Exh, Precision 600hp FMIC, RS4 injec, Tial 38mm, 034 SD mounts, Apikol Rear Diff, RS4 Sway, APR Snub Mnt, DO 4 port w/m direct inject, HPFPUpgrade 142bar PRV & StgII HPFP, 1.8 oil pump conv, Crnk dowel pin
    Absolute Automotive Tuned to 373+awhp @23.5psi (Corrected)

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Eric,

    I may be purchasing a 1.8 block tomorrow if it goes through I'd be willing to sell you my 06F block. Might be keeping the oil pan still Imnot sure if it will swap over perfectly yet.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    I got an 06F on the way already :) found one for $300 shipped !!
    Epy

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by viziers View Post
    I am already bored to 83.5mm



    vizi
    Oh shit, you have no magic coating. I would drive carefully.
    Eric
    Epy

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Cylinder wall coating info:

    The engine mechanicals are made of a die cast aluminium alloy.
    For the first time, plasma-coated cylinder liners are used in an engine.
    The advantages of this coating are:
    - The low layer thickness of 0.085 mm reduces the weight compared to a cylinder block with press-fitted cast iron cylinder bush by approx. 1 kg.
    - A plasma-coated cylinder liner reduces both friction and wear.
    The coating powder is sprayed into this plasma jet and thus melted. It is heated to a temperature of approx. 2,500°C and accelerated up to 150 m/

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    But our blocks are not aluminum.
    Eric
    Epy

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    My understanding is it is only needed for aluminum blocks like the old 2001 VW Lupo.
    Eric
    Epy

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    That's exactly where this info came from, I haven't found much saying the 2.0 is coated.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings bman005's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoardrider View Post
    If our cylinders use a coating like Nikasil, or something similar, then that coating should definitely not be removed. The coatings are there for very important reasons. Some of these coating can take a certain amount of honing, but caution is needed when doing so. Race cars, motorcycles, and Porsche, have been using these coatings on their cylinders for years.
    The coating is graphite on the 2.0t. It's "liquid blasted" so says the VW/AUDI training manual for the engine. It's fine for the engine initially but I just don't like re-ringing engines for oil consumption and not being able to hone the cylinders to give the rings a fresh surface. From what I was taught that's just engine building 101, fresh rings need a fresh surface. Guess that degree in automotive technology was just a waste of time and money, haha
    Last edited by bman005; 08-29-2012 at 04:52 PM.
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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings CorneliusRox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    That's exactly where this info came from, I haven't found much saying the 2.0 is coated.
    I found a bunch of stuff saying that the 4.2L V8 is and a ton of other engines, just not ours. \/\/ Graphite would make sense, but that is just for friction, that wouldnt be for strength at all. Also the other coating is a silicone and aluminum mixture that is used almost always for aluminum blocks to lower friction, somehow strengthen the cyl walls, and allow for better cooling. Oh and weight savings.

    Quote Originally Posted by bman005 View Post
    I just don't like re-ringing engines for oil consumption and not being able to hone the cylinders to give the rings a fresh surface. From what I was taught that's just engine building 101, fresh rings need a fresh surface. Guess that degree in automotive technology was just a waste of time and money, haha
    x2

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings Militant-Grunt's Avatar
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    Has anyone on AZ converted their 2.0 to run a 1.8t head?
    -MilitantGrunt- Certified Audi Dealership Technician / Parts Manager
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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Der Konig's Avatar
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    I'm actually pretty interested in this two, just haven't seen it yet.

    sent with voodoo black magic

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    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by viziers View Post
    I am already bored to 83.5mm



    vizi
    What did you have the cylinders bored to? For my Mahle pistons, they recommend 83 mm diameter, and to add between 0.001" to 0.003" for extreme applications. I contacted Mahle about this and they said for running 30 psi of boost, you can add 0.001" for safety. Did you do anything like this?
    - Eric
    Epy

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings fordyoz's Avatar
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    thanks mec. this is a good place for me to learn!
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quick question for the Engine gurus. Those of you that have gotten your rotating assembly dynamically balanced, did you have to pull the crank from the engine? If so do you know the part number for the sensor wheel? Also does anyone have a spare flywheel for a manual transmission?

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings CorneliusRox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    Quick question for the Engine gurus. Those of you that have gotten your rotating assembly dynamically balanced, did you have to pull the crank from the engine? If so do you know the part number for the sensor wheel? Also does anyone have a spare flywheel for a manual transmission?
    There was one in classifieds not to long ago. flywheel that is

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    The 2.0T FSI Engine Build Thread

    Couldn't find it :/

  33. #33
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Rocker Arms - At High RPM's the rocker arms have been known to pop off and cause engine seizure as well as bending valves and damaging pistons. This happens most frequently past 6500 Rpms. This happens due to the hydraulic lifters that are under the rocker arms. The lifters bottom out at these high speeds and cause the rocker clip to break, sending the rocker loose into the engine to cause problems. With the Ferrea lifter shims the lifter is simulated as pumped even when the lifter is depressed so that it can no longer bottom out, this prevents rocker clips from breaking.

    How hard is it to do this? Does it affect power output?

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings slimmj0k3r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    Quick question for the Engine gurus. Those of you that have gotten your rotating assembly dynamically balanced, did you have to pull the crank from the engine? If so do you know the part number for the sensor wheel? Also does anyone have a spare flywheel for a manual transmission?

    Sensor wheel needs to be replaced? Picked up new balance shaft bolts and windage tray last night, the manual calls for replacing those items.

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Three Rings abzoni's Avatar
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    are these the ferrea lifter shims? http://www.buyimportperformance.com/...0_p/lp1100.htm
    GT3071R, built motor, complete fueling system upgrade etc etc.

  36. #36
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Ok so for 34$ we cAn prevent catastrophic damage!?!? Where's the DIY on this?

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 25 2010
    AZ Member #
    61858
    My Garage
    Spare engines!
    Location
    Denver, Colorado

    The 2.0T FSI Engine Build Thread

    Well no. You have to consider the amount of work it will be to get to the hydraulic lifters. Yes the shims are inexpensive as a fix, but they really only make sense if you are building your head. You will need new bolts, gaskets, sealant, etc. it adds up and before you know it you are already at $1000.

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings Flexcj5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 23 2009
    AZ Member #
    48238
    My Garage
    B7 2.0t Tiptronic
    Location
    Greenville, SC

    A properly built, decked and ported head with oversize valves, guides, shims, cams, etc will cost ~3k based on my estimates from the IE catalog and machine time. Going with EPY's K04 is going to save me a lot on the head. The block is actually the cheaper part of our motors to build.
    Silver 05 2.0t B7 REVO stage 2+ w/ ER SMICs, RAI DP & Stasis exhaust.
    Debadged and tinted on Eibach/Koni FSDs rolling on Euromesh 3's (245/35 R19 et33)

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericpaulyoung's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    71439
    My Garage
    '08 a4 b7 6MT
    Location
    Eugene / OR

    Yeh, stock head is fine for K04/KOR/GT28RS series turbos.
    Eric
    Epy

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings shiro1745's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 26 2009
    AZ Member #
    45522
    Location
    DMV Area

    Did you guys hear anything about RAI's packages for building engine? They said they will have them for sale soon, even do a group buy? I haven't seen anything.
    - Chip

    K0R-GT -- S3 injectors -- Maestro tune -- IE Drop-in rods

    "It took 4 bad crankshaft seals and lots of cursing to build my avatar"

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