The real price of doing rods

[Artiemas]

I also forgot to add cost of tools you don't think about.

-quality or at least decent torque wrench
-engine hoist if taking out motor
-engine stand if taking out motor

Easily an extra $300 plus right there

Tools will always get the best of you and your budgets. It made my 2.8 T-belt change $75 more expensive. They really add up - the prices of tools. If you can, check locally around your hardware stores and such, they sometimes have engine hoists you can rent. I would only rent the hoist, the stand you're going to want to buy, considering you're going to have the engine out of the car for a few days probably and you'll probably end up paying the price of a stand just out of rent money.

[onemoremile]

A hoist and stand can be rented if they are only going to be used once. Taking the engine out is the only way to really do it right. Still, my old engine just won't blow up.

[melomandn]

Just thought I'd put my actually cost's into this thread.

As for price
Used IE rods and new mahle bearings -$250
Head gasket, head bolts, head bolt tool, oil pan sealant, ARP fastener lube, assembly lube, plasti gauge, ring compressor, brake cleaner, gasket cleaner ~$150
Used fx400 clutch + flywheel -$500
Torque wrench -$100
Oil+coolant -$80

I was able to borrow a hoist and engine stand from a friend so my total cost was around $1100 which I think is extremely reasonable considering what all was done.

The difference between 17psi and 25psi is amazing.

I did this in my garage, my first time ever taking apart an engine and it took about 5 total work days. Its definitely doable for those who were interested.

[Seerlah]

Hey man, you can't budget a clutch and flywheel into an engine build parts list. Looks like it really cost you around the $500 mark.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

For just drop in rods should I just check my bearing or just plan on going with all new? 300whp is the goal.

[Seerlah]

Rod bearings will need replacement regardless. As for the main bearings, I would not touch them unless you are planning on replacing them afterwards. Just an opinion, though.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

yeah I was talking about rod bearing ( good to know) Im not going to mess with the main bearing unless is needs it. I think ill be ok under 100k on the motor.

[034Motorsport]

Just thought I'd put my actually cost's into this thread.

As for price
Used IE rods and new mahle bearings -$250
Head gasket, head bolts, head bolt tool, oil pan sealant, ARP fastener lube, assembly lube, plasti gauge, ring compressor, brake cleaner, gasket cleaner ~$150
Used fx400 clutch + flywheel -$500
Torque wrench -$100
Oil+coolant -$80

I was able to borrow a hoist and engine stand from a friend so my total cost was around $1100 which I think is extremely reasonable considering what all was done.

The difference between 17psi and 25psi is amazing.

I did this in my garage, my first time ever taking apart an engine and it took about 5 total work days. Its definitely doable for those who were interested.

Thanks for letting us know what you did and how it went. All to often the OP of a thread doesn't come back to let everyone know what they decided.

Glad to hear it is going well, your scrupulousness is impressive.

[nynoah]

With the way the oil pan is on the A4 1.8t I would not advise doing the rods with the engine in. Yes it can be done. But I would NEVER do it that way. I would and did pull my engine to do this job. While you are pulling the engine, it is a good time to replace the oil pickup tube. That HAS to be replaced anytime you pull the pan. Its a cheap part that will give you piece of mind when it is new. No worry about crap clogging it up. I would also at a min replace the rear main seal too. Its not that hard once the engine is out and the flywheel is pulled. They cost like 30 dollars. You could get away without doing that rear main, but why not? Then I would inspect the block for any places that you see an issue with. Its also not a bad idea to take the oil like that feeds the turbo off and hit that will a lot of carb cleaner to clean it out. I would also replace the seal on the oil cooler too.

Basically if it is rubber and does not cost too much, replace it while you are in there.

[Seerlah]

I scratched my cylinder 4 wall when trying to place my rods in with engine still in the car (it is only this cylinder you will have issued with because of the subframe. If you remove the subframe, no biggie at all. But yeah, that block can now no longer be used unless bored out. My heart dropped after I could not hone it out. But thenj3 was there to the rescue with a cheap replacement block.

[GOODBYNAAIR]

My motor will be coming out need new clutch and I want to go over everything I can.

[melomandn]

Thanks for letting us know what you did and how it went. All to often the OP of a thread doesn't come back to let everyone know what they decided.

Glad to hear it is going well, your scrupulousness is impressive.

Thanks Max. I hate opening threads that get left hanging so I had to get some final costs in haha.

And thinking about doing it with the block in the car is just comical to me now, its nice to be able to have everything in front of you as well so you can inspect everything and easily spin the block around.

[lorge1989]

Glad to hear she is running well!!!! Now go get a dyno I'd like to see your numbers vs. mine.

[Seerlah]

Jim aka onemoremile did it with his engine still in the car. I made the mistake of thinking the long end of a screw driver was under the piston when taking the assembly out. With the subframe in the way, I could not see. Ended up it was actually on the lip of the piston and cylinder wall. The above pics show the end result. My mechanic does drop installs with engine still in the car also, except he will drop the subframe when the car is on the lift and swing it out of the way. Anyways, sh*t happens.

[themadscientist]

I scratched my cylinder 4 wall when trying to place my rods in with engine still in the car (it is only this cylinder you will have issued with because of the subframe. If you remove the subframe, no biggie at all. But yeah, that block can now no longer be used unless bored out. My heart dropped after I could not hone it out. But thenj3 was there to the rescue with a cheap replacement block.

Did you do your own cylinder hone?

[Seerlah]

Yes. That cylinder was overdone trying to get the scratch out.

[c0r3y.af]

Sucks :( Good thing you found a replacement! I'm sure you could still sell that to someone who will bore it out, and still make a few bucks back.

[Seerlah]

There was a member who was helping me out with questions and he let me borrow some tools (piston ring filer and roloc wheel), so I was going to give it to him for cheap if he can pick it up. If not, I might build this block on the side for a 2.0. I now have my spare cylinder head also so I can build a complete engine. This for the future though as my setup is just about perfect for me currently with forged rods, AEB pistons, Brute rods, journals on crank polished, new rings, and new bearings all around and not many miles on it so far.

[themadscientist]

Yes. That cylinder was overdone trying to get the scratch out.

Spring loaded stone hone?

Just a friendly heads up, if your crosshatching is too flat, you'll start consuming oil in no time.

[Seerlah]

I used the Brush Research GB Flex Hone 83mm Silicon Carbide 180 grit. Cheap on Amazon. ATF on cylinder walls when honing. I know too long and you take too much material off. Just want to de-glaze in both directions for cross hatching.

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=2

[themadscientist]

I used the Brush Research GB Flex Hone 83mm Silicon Carbide 180 grit. Cheap on Amazon. ATF on cylinder walls when honing. I know too long and you take too much material off. Just want to de-glaze in both directions for cross hatching.

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=2

Good good. Brush hones are the next best thing to the machine shop.

[grillhands]

You can do it. It's really not bad at all. It took me about 2-3 days to remove, rebuild and install the engine. After that is was about 2 months to get it started lol. When I pulled the engine, I didn't realize that I had a wire connection still connected and it pulled itself out from under the dash. Once that was found and fixed, it started right up. I did my build close to under 1k from parts I bought on the forums. I got my rods and pistons from the classifieds and all the other stuff such as rings, bearings, rod bolts, gaskets and the misc stuff I bought new. Plan a budget then add $150-250 to it just to be prepared for unexpected mishaps. Make sure you have a calibrated tq wrench as well. For honing, what I did was 3 slow pulls at half speed of my electric drill then 3 fast pulls on each wall. I started it up for 5 min then changed the oil. I put 50 miles on it then changed oil again.Then I did 150 miles for the next oil change. After that oil change, I turned the boost up to 28psi and full blast baby lol. Its been close to 18k miles with no issues and not even the slightest puff of smoke out of my exhaust. Within those miles, I did engine braking to help sit the rings too.

[Scottydo]

Cost for me to do everything needed except my pistons when i blew my block was around $1100 thats coated main and rod bearings, rods and piston rings, i did the hone myself with the proper tool. A torque wrench is very necessary but one can rent them from autozone/ advanced auto. While in the engine i also did my whole timing belt job also did a manual tensioner conversion. This was all without touching the head. Also swapped in ARP main studs and headbolts my choice over factory items IIRC theese were about $300 all together. IMHO i have replaced rods in a motor while working underneath it and its not fun i would pull the motor.