Fan Clutch roaring noise

**belltown98** · 07-17-2012 12:35 PM

So I've been have some fan clutch noise issue, meaning the fan clutch is engaged on and making lots of roaring fan noise. Bought new fan clutch had it installed and the same issue, fan clutch remains engaged on.

Mechanic brought out a temp gun and measures the heat signature on the radiator and tells me that I have a hot spot (30 degrees hotter) where the fan clutch sit and is sending out hotter than normal temperatures...therefore causing the fan clutch to engage while idling and 1st and 2nd gear starts.

First start of the day no fan clutch engagement only after car reaches normal operating temp or especially on hot days above 85 degrees.

NO OVERHEATING ISSUES...temp gauge sits right in the middle

Recommendation by mechanic: New radiator and flush??? $735.00

Inspected the old fan clutch and there seems to be a small amount of grease and dirt that formed on the cooling fins.

Car has 104K

New Clutch fan by: Meyle part # 100 121 0038 ref# 078 121 350 A

I've heard of the Meyle's failing right out of the box...any truth to this claims?

Any suggestions or recommendations...can't stand the roaring noise of the clutch fan engaged on during driving of the line.

If find it highly improbable that it's the radiator begin clog right there in front of the fan clutch

**waB5S4** · 07-17-2012 12:57 PM

Bypass or delete clutch fan and A/C. You don't need them around here. I didn't even have any issues with a 2500mi round trip down to AZ, including a few weeks of tooling around down there.

Then you can say you freed up some parasitic drag and it was a performance modification, not a cheap/lazy person's way out of tearing off the front end right after you just got it all buttoned up. That's what I tell myself, I'm not being lazy, I'm being efficient.

**belltown98** · 07-17-2012 01:00 PM

Originally Posted by waB5S4

Bypass or delete clutch fan and A/C. You don't need them around here. I didn't even have any issues with a 2500mi round trip down to AZ, including a few weeks of tooling around down there.

Then you can say you freed up some parasitic drag and it was a performance modification, not a cheap/lazy person's way out of tearing off the front end right after you just got it all buttoned up. That's what I tell myself, I'm not being lazy, I'm being efficient.

So your saying just remove the fan completely and run as is ???

**AudiNFS** · 07-17-2012 01:01 PM

EFK

**belltown98** · 07-17-2012 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by AudiNFS

EFK

Please explain? Never heard of EFK and what is the necessary parts I would need? Thanks

**waB5S4** · 07-17-2012 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by belltown98

So your saying just remove the fan completely and run as is ???

If you don't want to put the front end into service mode again (or pay someone else to) then you can manage to route a shorter belt and simply bypass the fan and A/C, but it's a tight fit and a PITA. If you go this route, make sure you have a good bar to stick over your ratchet that you detention the belt with, you'll thank me later. Also, be aware that your serp belt will rub and could wear prematurely. I haven't noticed crazy wear but it is obviously rubbing.

Otherwise, the proper way to delete would be take the front end off, pull the fan and compressor, block off the gap left, rip off the A/C components, install an EFK and put it all back together. This is going to be cheaper than servicing any of the components you are taking off but you're obviously giving up the creature comfort of A/C.

**belltown98** · 07-17-2012 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by waB5S4

If you don't want to put the front end into service mode again (or pay someone else to) then you can manage to route a shorter belt and simply bypass the fan and A/C, but it's a tight fit and a PITA. If you go this route, make sure you have a good bar to stick over your ratchet that you detention the belt with, you'll thank me later. Also, be aware that your serp belt will rub and could wear prematurely. I haven't noticed crazy wear but it is obviously rubbing.

Otherwise, the proper way to delete would be take the front end off, pull the fan and compressor, block off the gap left, rip off the A/C components, install an EFK and put it all back together. This is going to be cheaper than servicing any of the components you are taking off but you're obviously giving up the creature comfort of A/C.

Thanks for the details, but I think I'll try to find a stock solution to the fix. I'm starting to believe the new clutch fan may be a piece of junk! Wondering if there's a break in period to the clutch and that it will correct itself in time?

**AudiNFS** · 07-17-2012 02:05 PM

EFK= electric fan kit. Take a look at it on vastperformance.com

**Fourplay** · 07-17-2012 02:21 PM

Originally Posted by belltown98

So I've been have some fan clutch noise issue, meaning the fan clutch is engaged on and making lots of roaring fan noise. Bought new fan clutch had it installed and the same issue, fan clutch remains engaged on.

Mechanic brought out a temp gun and measures the heat signature on the radiator and tells me that I have a hot spot (30 degrees hotter) where the fan clutch sit and is sending out hotter than normal temperatures...therefore causing the fan clutch to engage while idling and 1st and 2nd gear starts.

First start of the day no fan clutch engagement only after car reaches normal operating temp or especially on hot days above 85 degrees.

NO OVERHEATING ISSUES...temp gauge sits right in the middle

Recommendation by mechanic: New radiator and flush??? $735.00

Inspected the old fan clutch and there seems to be a small amount of grease and dirt that formed on the cooling fins.

Car has 104K

New Clutch fan by: Meyle part # 100 121 0038 ref# 078 121 350 A

I've heard of the Meyle's failing right out of the box...any truth to this claims?

Any suggestions or recommendations...can't stand the roaring noise of the clutch fan engaged on during driving of the line.

If find it highly improbable that it's the radiator begin clog right there in front of the fan clutch

The fan is always on in 1st and 2nd in my car, then the clutch fan goes off in 3rd. I think it's normal.

**belltown98** · 07-17-2012 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by AudiNFS

EFK= electric fan kit. Take a look at it on vastperformance.com

Thanks for the info on EFK. Still prefer to find a stock fix to the problem. Again anyone have any problems with Meyle products???

**924Carrera** · 07-17-2012 02:45 PM

Well, a "stock fix" would be to leave it alone. The roaring noise is normal. Yeah, it bugs me a little too, but once I get going and get some airflow moving it eventually disconnects. It's always on when I first start my car and also when I've been sitting in traffic in the heat. If you do indeed have a defective fan clutch, I'd just replace it. The Meyle stuff is hit and miss sometimes but probably not a bad product overall. I got an ACDelco fan clutch for mine.

Also, it's highly likely that your radiator is clogged in some spots, especially if it's got substantial temperature fluctuations. You'll be looking for cold spots, not hot spots, to indicate a blockage. A new radiator can be had for about $250 for the 6-speed cars and $300 for Tips. I would bring a new radiator to the shop if you can't do the flush yourself, to cut down on costs, instead of letting the shop sell it to you at a marked-up price.

**belltown98** · 07-17-2012 03:01 PM

Originally Posted by 924Carrera

Well, a "stock fix" would be to leave it alone. The roaring noise is normal. Yeah, it bugs me a little too, but once I get going and get some airflow moving it eventually disconnects. It's always on when I first start my car and also when I've been sitting in traffic in the heat. If you do indeed have a defective fan clutch, I'd just replace it. The Meyle stuff is hit and miss sometimes but probably not a bad product overall. I got an ACDelco fan clutch for mine.

Also, it's highly likely that your radiator is clogged in some spots, especially if it's got substantial temperature fluctuations. You'll be looking for cold spots, not hot spots, to indicate a blockage. A new radiator can be had for about $250 for the 6-speed cars and $300 for Tips. I would bring a new radiator to the shop if you can't do the flush yourself, to cut down on costs, instead of letting the shop sell it to you at a marked-up price.

Hey thanks for the reply. Now I just feel like I wasted over $200 on a fix that might have been normal. Yes the roaring noise does go away after 3 gear. It really sucks when your driving in a underground garage, the noise is amplified and kinda of embarrassing. No one would expect that kind of noise coming out of a clean S4.

I'm stumped, half tempted to buy a Sachs and spend another $200 on the install, but no guarantee that it won't happen with the Sachs.

I will give it a few days, maybe there's a break in period where the clutch will relax and not be so sensitive to the temperatures of the radiator.

I'm starting to rule out it's the radiator...it's never been damaged in anyway.

**aysix** · 07-17-2012 03:03 PM

Delete

**924Carrera** · 07-17-2012 03:17 PM

Originally Posted by belltown98

Hey thanks for the reply. Now I just feel like I wasted over $200 on a fix that might have been normal. Yes the roaring noise does go away after 3 gear. It really sucks when your driving in a underground garage, the noise is amplified and kinda of embarrassing. No one would expect that kind of noise coming out of a clean S4.

I'm stumped, half tempted to buy a Sachs and spend another $200 on the install, but no guarantee that it won't happen with the Sachs.

I will give it a few days, maybe there's a break in period where the clutch will relax and not be so sensitive to the temperatures of the radiator.

I'm starting to rule out it's the radiator...it's never been damaged in anyway.

I don't want to beat the dead horse that's found in this forum or make you feel bad about your situation, but I would seriously recommend doing the install yourself. As long as you have a small assortment of tools, a pan to catch the coolant, and a little patience, doing a fan clutch is not a difficult task (just a time consuming one). That way you can save the $200 install, because I don't blame you for not wishing to repeat it.

Also, your radiator may not be externally damaged, but over time they can still gunk up and the tanks can develop hairline fissures and leaks (a separate issue). My radiator looked fine externally but had both of those things going on. With over 100k miles, anything can start wearing out even if it's a good quality part. On the other hand, you'll also notice side effects to radiator blockage such as the car overheating even on the freeway or when pulling a grade. Since you mentioned it doesn't overheat, I would also tend to rule out the radiator as the culprit. In any case, I'd let it go a while and see if things improve and if not, you could try swapping out a different fan clutch. Again, though, I would recommend the DIY method if at all possible, just to save costs.