Hey guys. I do realize this has been covered more than a few times, but the reason I am making this DIY is because I think some of the pics and video might help a few people down the road in their install. This install process can probably be used for other radar detectors as well, but obviously check on that before attempting anything.
First off, thanks to those that helped me troubleshoot some of my issues. See this thread, and all of the linked threads within it for other ways and idea to do a similar install: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...need-fuse-help
Tools and items needed:
-Radar detector.
-Radar detector smart cord with mute button.
-Velcro (I recommend Velcro-brand squares that you can buy at most hardware stores).
-Electrical tape.
-Add-a-fuse (bought at a chain auto store; there are 2 different sizes of fuses in our cars - for my version of this install, I chose to go with the smaller fuse - so if you follow my DIY, you will want the smaller of the 2 add-a-fuses that will be available at your auto parts store).
-Extra 10 Amp fuse (bought at auto parts store).
-Insulated butt connectors (bought at Radio Shack)
-Pliers.
-Wire cutters/splicers.
-Wrench - I used 5/16 wrench, but I believe there is technically a specific metric wrench that can be used as well.
-Plastic zip ties.
-Bone tool (bought at crafts store in the "paper-folding" or "scrap-booking" section).
-Sand paper, or a wire brillo-style pad
Difficulty:
The most difficult part of this for me was trying to figure out what was a good fuse to "tap" into using my add-a-fuse. More on that later. I think this took me maybe 2 hours total. But I really took my time trying to not make any errors. If I were to do this again, it would maybe take me 1 hour or less. Not that hard assuming you have all of the tools needed.
How-to guide with pics:
The Escort brand smart cord (with mute button) costs approx $20, and is available from various stores online. Here is a pic of what were are talking about:

Coming out of the mute button are two wires. Wire #1 is a phone-jack style wire, which will plug into the radar detector unit. Wire #2 actually will break off towards the end and become two wires. We will call these wires #2A and #2B.
Wire 2A= The black wire that has a metal loop at the end of it. This is the ground wire. We leaving this wire as is.
Wire 2B = The wire already came with a flat-style plug on the end of it.

For wire 2B, cut off that flat metal plug on the end. Use wire strippers, and leave approx one inch of bare wire. Fold that wire over onto itself, so it is technically twice as thick as it was before. This folded-over bare wire will be crimped into the blue butt connector, and connected with the add-a-fuse.
Depending on your add-a-fuse that you bought at the auto parts store, it may or may not already have a blue butt connector clamped onto it. If it is already there, great. If not, strip down some wire and with pliers crimp the blue butt connector over the bare wire. Now wire 2B should be connected securely with the add-a-fuse wire (red wire in pic).

The ground wire (wire 2A) with the loop needs to be connected to bare metal. Take sand paper and scrape off the black paint. With wrench, remove bolt. Put bolt through the wire 2A loop, and secure with wrench.


Take the add-a-fuse which is now secured to wire 2B with the blue butt connector. You need to be sure to have one extra 10A (10 Amp) fuse for this. I also bought these at an auto parts store. The add-a-fuse has 2 empty female slots ready for fuses to be added into it. Add the extra 10A fuse into the empty add-a-fuse.
Now, for the next part there are apparently multiple fuses that can be used. The purpose of this is to tap into a fuse that will power on/off with the ignition of the car. This way you will not have to plug/unplug anything related to your radar detector when you enter/leave your car. I tried a few different ones without success.
On the inside of our fuse panel, there is a nice detailed list of the fuses, and what "number position" they are on the grid of all of the fuses.



The one that I used was fuse position #7. This is a 10A fuse. This corresponds with the ESP (Electronic Stability Program).

***TEST that your radar detector works here before messing with mounting or anything else. Make sure it powers on/off with the ignition of the car. If this is working fine, continue with install***
I decided to mount my radar detector on the passenger side of the rearview mirror. This was a personal decision, mostly because I refused to lose the full motion of my driver's side sun visor. It will only partially block the passenger's visor abilities. It can still go down perpendicular to the ground, enough to block the sun if needed for the passenger. And the radar detector is still in sight for me, so I can see if it is K-band or KA-band, etc.


Always start with the detector end, because this will allow you to have the slack at the end, and slack will go into the fuse box. Use the bone tool to help you route the phone cord flat under the headliner, and then down the A-pillar. I thought the rear-view mirror would be difficult and get in the way, but the headliner actually can bend upwards a bit, and you can route the wire over the mirror area. Continue with the bone tool. Make sure to give tuck it in really far into the top of the A-pillar, so it doesn't "pop" out and fall down. Tucking it down the side of the A-pilar was difficult for me. I used the side of the bone tool and patiently kept at this for probably 20 minutes. Be careful not to puncture the wire with your tool here. Then tuck this wire down and into the fuse box area.


I used plastic zip ties to make it look clean. Use electrical tape around anything that might have the possibility of having a wire become exposed. That would lead to short circuits, etc.

Now to discuss the mute button. I was aware of the "funk" button for Audi cars, but that is an expensive part, and the extra wiring/soldering seemed slightly above my expertise here. I used the mute button that came with my smart cord. I found a nice spot for it to the right of the steering wheel, and to the left of the radio console. I used Velcro with adhesive backing to secure the mute button to the side of the console. I like this spot because it is within an arm's reach, my passenger cannot see it, and people standing next to the car cannot easily see it (see: police). I routed the wires into the space where the two pieces of plastic come together. This bone tool really served its purpose, and I would not have been able to complete this particular install without it. I then used this tool to tuck the wire into a really tight crack underneath the steering wheel, and directly underneath the owner's manual storage compartment. The wires will then pop up from underneath and into the fuse box area.


Make sure your radar detector is LEVEL to the ground. You do not want it tilted up or down too much at all. I had to mess with my suction cups for a few minutes until I was happy with this.


Also, just for shits I made a quick video in case people want a quick version of what I did:
Hope this helps a couple people. Feel free to post here for questions if needed, and I'll try to help. Cheers.
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