034 Motorsport Downpipe Install ?

[lo-lyfe]

Planning on placing an order for 034 DPs (plus testpipes and catback exhaust) next week and was wondering if its possible to do the install w/o pulling the motor. I know guys have done Piggies by pulling stock DPs out the bottom with the car on jack stands but my concern are the DP heat shields (I know the driveshaft heat shields have to come off). In the case of the Piggie mod, the norm was to leave the DP heat shields in place, but I'm wondering if the thicker 034 DPs will fit with stock DP heat shields and if not, what will I need to do in order to get the DP heat shields out (other than pulling the motor). Is it possible to get the DP heat shields out through the top of the engine bay or from underneath the car? What has to be removed in order to accomplish the removal using either method? Thanks!

Also, I'm running a Stg2 tune with the rear o2s coded out. Will I have to cap off the rear o2 bungs on the DPs or just reattached the rear o2s for simplicity's sake?

[A62TURBO]

You don't need to pull your motor, all hardware is accessible from the top and bottom of the car. This is if you have a six speed, a TIP car will be harder to do.

[034Motorsport]

Planning on placing an order for 034 DPs (plus testpipes and catback exhaust) next week and was wondering if its possible to do the install w/o pulling the motor. I know guys have done Piggies by pulling stock DPs out the bottom with the car on jack stands but my concern are the DP heat shields (I know the driveshaft heat shields have to come off). In the case of the Piggie mod, the norm was to leave the DP heat shields in place, but I'm wondering if the thicker 034 DPs will fit with stock DP heat shields and if not, what will I need to do in order to get the DP heat shields out (other than pulling the motor). Is it possible to get the DP heat shields out through the top of the engine bay or from underneath the car? What has to be removed in order to accomplish the removal using either method? Thanks!

Also, I'm running a Stg2 tune with the rear o2s coded out. Will I have to cap off the rear o2 bungs on the DPs or just reattached the rear o2s for simplicity's sake?

You will need to remove the stock heat shields, both because they won't fit, and also because they are not needed. The heatshields are in place due to the pre-cats. Once you piggy your downpipes or installed aftermarket downpipes, you no longer have the catalyst material there. You will have lower underhood temps with no heat shields and aftermarket downpipes versus stock downpipes and heat shields.

The engine definitely does not need to come out. Typically for first timers, the downpipes take about 6 hours. The hardest part is definitely removing the OEM pipes. Without a lift, I suggest you cut the OEM downpipes at the flex joint so you can twist them out. I bent/smashed up the heat shields so they could come out easier. I've never known anyone who had to pull the motor just for downpipes.

How your rear O2's are coded out will determine whether you need to have the sensors plugged into the harness or not. Like you said, it is generally easiest just to leave the secondary O2's hooked up since then you won't need to buy plugs!

Let me know if you have any more questions.

[Monty23]

With my GIAC stage 2 tune, my rear o2's were coded out. I tried physically removing them after I did my piggies and then had to put them back in because I got an o2 cel.

And like Max said, cut the OEM dps at the flex. I fought with each of mine for 30min each side to twist my dps out. If I was installing aftermarket dps, I would have cut them... I also took a 3lb sledge to my OEM heat shields after I got them out to help relieve some frustration

[lo-lyfe]

You will need to remove the stock heat shields, both because they won't fit, and also because they are not needed. The heatshields are in place due to the pre-cats. Once you piggy your downpipes or installed aftermarket downpipes, you no longer have the catalyst material there. You will have lower underhood temps with no heat shields and aftermarket downpipes versus stock downpipes and heat shields.

The engine definitely does not need to come out. Typically for first timers, the downpipes take about 6 hours. The hardest part is definitely removing the OEM pipes. Without a lift, I suggest you cut the OEM downpipes at the flex joint so you can twist them out. I bent/smashed up the heat shields so they could come out easier. I've never known anyone who had to pull the motor just for downpipes.

How your rear O2's are coded out will determine whether you need to have the sensors plugged into the harness or not. Like you said, it is generally easiest just to leave the secondary O2's hooked up since then you won't need to buy plugs!

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Thanks Max. Are you running any specials on the set (DPs, Testpipes, and catback xhaust) delivered to 48225?

Also, do the DPs, TPs, and CB xhaust come with all the necessary hardware needed for install or will I need to purchase addt'l items separately? If so, what else will I need? Just trying to prep ahead of time and save myself the trouble of running out to Autozone after starting on the project.

Lastly, I'm getting mixed opinions about wrapping the DPs. Should I or should I not heat wrap them and what type of wrapping should I use (if needed)?

Thanks!

[lo-lyfe]

With my GIAC stage 2 tune, my rear o2's were coded out. I tried physically removing them after I did my piggies and then had to put them back in because I got an o2 cel.

And like Max said, cut the OEM dps at the flex. I fought with each of mine for 30min each side to twist my dps out. If I was installing aftermarket dps, I would have cut them... I also took a 3lb sledge to my OEM heat shields after I got them out to help relieve some frustration

Lol, well I've been trying to remain calm and collected when working on my baby...take a step back...breathe... go back at it. For this project I think I'll keep my Glock 30 handy, instead of a sledgehammer. Want to minimize any CELs so the o2s are going back in, thanks.

[lo-lyfe]

You don't need to pull your motor, all hardware is accessible from the top and bottom of the car. This is if you have a six speed, a TIP car will be harder to do.

Thanks. Its a MT so I'm hoping for the best but expecting the worst...

Also...been following your build thread and I've pretty much decided on the same parts list for my Stg3 (when the turbo lady comes knocking). Maybe FT F21s and FX400 instead of the k04s and the Spec3, idk...Definitely sold on the ER SMICs...Looks like you went with the 034 DPs and mid pipes as well. What exhaust are you mating those to? (car sound sick, btw!). Good luck with the remainder of the build.

[S4 00 2.7]

Thanks Max. Are you running any specials on the set (DPs, Testpipes, and catback xhaust) delivered to 48225?

Also, do the DPs, TPs, and CB xhaust come with all the necessary hardware needed for install or will I need to purchase addt'l items separately? If so, what else will I need? Just trying to prep ahead of time and save myself the trouble of running out to Autozone after starting on the project.

Lastly, I'm getting mixed opinions about wrapping the DPs. Should I or should I not heat wrap them and what type of wrapping should I use (if needed)?

Thanks!

Good question. I was planning on wrapping mine. What cons do you know of?