Audison BitOne in a B8 S4 w/B&O? Full B&O makeover?

[miztahsparklez]

Well... I knew it wouldn't be long before I got the car audio itch. The B&O system just isn't cutting it for me. Good news for people looking to upgrade, I'm likely going to sell all the old B&O speakers. Bad news for me, I think I'm going to be spending some $$.

Anyhow, has anyone tackled this yet? I've compiled a list of the wiring I may possibly need using the B8 A5/S5 B&O diagram.

Connection From Amp - J525	BitOne Input	Speaker	Connector	Pin	Color	Notes
Center Speaker +	CH1 +	R158	T32h	5	Blue/White	Changes to Blue/White at T17c, Pin 15
Center Speaker -	CH1 -	R158	T32h	17	Black/White	Changes to Black/White at T17c, Pin 17
Front Left Tweeter +	Use Combined	R20	T27a	11	Red/Blue	B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Tweeter -	Use Combined	R20	T27a	24	Brown/Blue	B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Midrange +	Use Combined	R103	T17d	15	Red/Green	B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Midrange -	Use Combined	R103	T17d	17	Brown/Green	B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Left Tweeter/Midrange +	CH2 +	R20/R103	T32h	6	Red/Blue	Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
Front Left Tweeter/Midrange -	CH2 -	R20/R103	T32h	18	Brown/Blue	Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
Front Left Midbass +	CH3 +	R21	T32h	23	Red/Blue	Changes to Red /Blue at T27a, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
Front Left Midbass -	CH3 -	R21	T32h	28	Brown/Blue	Changes to Brown/Blue at T27a, Pin 22 (Main Harness)
Front Right Tweeter +	Use Combined	R22	T27c	11	Blue/White	B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Right Tweeter -	Use Combined	R22	T27c	24	Black/White	B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne
Front Right Midrange +	Use Combined	R104	T17f	15	Red/White	B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
Front Right Midrange -	Use Combined	R104	T17f	17	Brown/White	B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne
Front Right Tweeter/Midrange +	CH4 +	R22/R104	T32h	5	Red/Yellow	Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal
Front Right Tweeter/Midrange -	CH4 -	R22/R104	T32h	19	Brown/Yellow	Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal
Front Right Midbass +	CH5 +	R23	T32h	10	Red/Yellow	Changes to Red/Blue at T27c, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
Front Right Midbass -	CH5 -	R23	T32h	22	Brown/Yellow	Changes to Brown/Blue at T27c, Pin 22 (Main Harness)
Rear Left Tweeter +	Use Combined	R14	B487	23	Red/Violet	Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne
Rear Left Tweeter -	Use Combined	R14	B486	22	Brown/Violet	Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne
Rear Left Midrange +	x	R105	T32h	8	Red/Gray
Rear Left Midrange -	x	R105	T32h	20	Brown/Gray
Rear Left Midbass +	CH6 +	R159	T32h	3	Red/Violet	Shared with R14, contains full signal
Rear Left Midbass -	CH6 -	R159	T32h	15	Brown/Violet	Shared with R14, contains full signal
Rear Right Tweeter +	Use Combined	R16	B485	21	White/Green	Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne
Rear Right Tweeter -	Use Combined	R16	B484	20	Blue/Green	Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne
Rear Right Midrange +	x	R106	T32h	9	Red/Gray
Rear Right Midrange -	x	R106	T32h	21	Brown/Gray
Rear Right Midbass +	CH7 +	R160	T32h	4	White/Green	Shared with R16, contains full signal
Rear Right Midbass -	CH7 -	R160	T32h	16	Blue/Green	Shared with R16, contains full signal
Subwoofer +	CH8 +	R157	T32h	25	White/Yellow
Subwoofer -	CH8 -	R157	T32h	30	Blue/Yellow

Man does the table function suck! Next time I'm posting a PDF.....

If my theory and wiring chart is correct, you should be able to use this to wire up other processors (MS8) or LOC for your subwoofer, etc. You will want to use the "full" or "combined" signals wherever possible. After looking at the B&O schematic, it looks like there are things like microphone and telephone mute that go through the amp, so it doesn't look like it's a great idea to remove the amp completely in favor of a device like the Mobridge (though straight digital to digital sounds AWESOME!)

I realize I'm not 100% experienced in the Audi realm of car audio yet, so please forgive me if I've made an error above. I won't be able to confirm anything until I actually begin install. However, I hope to be building an awesome SQ install that gets plenty loud.

I will be using the factory locations for most speakers in the car and I will be removing the additional midranges and tweeters in the rear. I will be utilizing the rear midbass locations for some full range 6", removing the stock B&O sub to replace with some sort of sub stage, replacing the front midbasses with 7 or 8" speakers (based on depth), 1" tweets in the sails, 3" midrange on dash, and a 3" midrange in center. As I'm out of speaker outputs for the rear speakers, I might just run them from the factory amp, or run an Audio Authority 3xs to split up the front stage further and give me a couple more outputs for those rears.

Confused yet?

Stay tuned....The B8 would be the second OEM integrated install I've done, so we'll see where it takes me.

[sendmeone]

Great write up so far man, wish you lots of luck and post pics. Would like to see where you are taking this. Do you know what brand of speakers you are going to be using? For the sub, are you going to use the same location or are you going to build a box? What about the amps? If you need to replace them have you considered what you are going to be using?
Thanks in advance

[miztahsparklez]

At the moment, I'm trying to see what will and wont fit as far as speakers. I have a bunch of stuff lying around from my previous install. I would love to do some sort of stealth install in the trunk. I will be running 3 Alpine PDX 4.150 for the front/rear/center and a PDX 1.1000 for the sub stage. I'm just hoping the factory wiring can handle this, otherwise I'll need to upgrade the alternator to battery wire with an additional 0ga cable.

I'm not sure how well my JL 10W6 would work free air (i think they be terrible actually), but one thought was to mount two in the rear deck, firing straight into the cabin. This would result in being plenty loud for inside the car, but sacrificing the least amount of space and doing the least amount of work (just cutting the deck for the second sub and enlarging the original hole). However, I have a feeling I might be removing the spare or doing some glass work in the side panels to give me the ultimate zero trunk space loss enclosure. The other option is to have a shop build me some leather wrapped enclosures or move to shallow mount subs if I don't end up using what I have lying around. I would LOVE to do this with the smallest budget possible, so we'll see what I can come up with.

[sendmeone]

Keep us posted, would love to see how it pana out. From the description sounds like it's goin to be plenty loud. I am a fan of JL and Matt's for subs. Mids and High is tough for me, some sound better than other in cars. I did a full sound mod in a previous car and my toughest aspect was the Mids and High...especially coming from a sound engineering background.

Good Luck and post pics

[ENV²]

Im so confused... Let me know how it turns out. I am interested in doing some sound upgrading for my NON B&O system.

[Deckdout2]

Sticky Request! This is great schematics info. I was looking for this when I was hooking up my Audison Amp and Hertz Sub. Nice writeup sir!

[JAW]

so i hooked up an amp and sub. the sub wiring colors are white/yellow and brown/yellow. does anyone know which is the positive and which is the negative. I assumed the brown/yellow is the negative but would like confirmation. also, for folks that have added an extra sub did you disconnet your stock sub? thx.

[miztahsparklez]

For me the sub wires were actually exactly as listed on this post. Also, generally, brown is ground, so you're right. You might also be able to check on the sub itself. It usually has the polarity marked.

[Mbrad]

The above is awesome, Thanks! I'm sure with some thought I could probably figure this out (or guess) from the above but two questions to the OP:
1) Is there any signal that is output form the B/O amp that is full range?
2) If not, do you happen to know the frequency ranges on the different B/O amp outputs?

I'm doing a sub add on and am considereding repurposing the stock sub as a true woofer if i can get a signal that is in the 80-200 HZ range or use my amp to band pass that range from a full range signal.

[SixShifter]

It appears the only thing you are doing is upgrading the speakers to th B&O system, right? If so, this probaby isn't an issue ... however, when you start to bring the MS8 into the conversation, I think you're going to have issues. In my TL, I used the MS8 ... feeding the MS8 with the H/U speaker level outputs as inputs ... bypassing the ELS amp (and the processing it did). Your list shows nothing more than speaker wiring - which in and of itself is valuabe ... but doesn't take into effect the fact that the signal from the head unit to the amp/processor is digital ... meaning you'd have no clean signal to feed into the MS8 (or stated another way the B&O processing signal would still be present on any leads into the MS8 if you choose to wire it that way). However ... I could be wrong.

[cspcrx]

I have the B&O system and the sub is the part the leaves me wanting a bit more. My Tacoma with the upgraded JBL sound system and amplified sub sounds better in some ways.

I was looking at the options of replacing the sub with another free air, but saw how much the rear deck flexes. So I was thinking why could you not pull the stock sub out. Make a small fiberglass box, only need .50cuft for a 10in sub, at bolt it to the rear deck. The sub would still fire through the hole where the stock sub was, flex would be gone. You could also mount your small amp under the deck as well.

I have not seen this tried yet.

[skiracerblah]

I have a JL Sub in the OEM location right now. If i had to do it again, i wouldn't mount the sub in the OEM location since the metal shelf flexes too much. You can try strengthening it if you really want to put the sub there. I personally would do some sort of box in the trunk.... Here's a video showing how much flex the metal shelf flexes

[miztahsparklez]

The above is awesome, Thanks! I'm sure with some thought I could probably figure this out (or guess) from the above but two questions to the OP:
1) Is there any signal that is output form the B/O amp that is full range?
2) If not, do you happen to know the frequency ranges on the different B/O amp outputs?

I'm doing a sub add on and am considereding repurposing the stock sub as a true woofer if i can get a signal that is in the 80-200 HZ range or use my amp to band pass that range from a full range signal.

Not sure, as I haven't actually did it myself yet.. the project has been on hold until the weather clears up again and I find some more $$ haha.

I might actually be going another route instead, but I can just check the wiring as I go along to see if the colors and stuff match. I would assume you would want to tap into the front midbass speakers for that type of signal. I don't have any real indicator as to what frequencies that the system puts out (i'd need the tools to measure, which I don't have). My aftermarket midranges are in place of the factory speakers, so I'd assume that they're crossed around there.

@sixshifter - No, this is a full build setup. The Audison Bit.One.1 is like your MS8 without the integrated amp. Figuring out the factory wiring is the first step ;) As the system uses a MOST configuration, unless you use something like the Mobridge DA1/DA2, you will not be able to get sound any other way. However, if someone wanted to just hook up a bunch of Line out converters, this would be useful to them, or they can simply use this as a guide to hook up any other audio processor that is used for factory integration. To disable any HU processing, you simply turn it off and run the config on the unit itself. It will auto EQ any factory bias.

@cspcrx - yeah the B&O system is pretty weak. You could probably help it out a bunch by actually covering up the huge holes in the rear deck, as I'm betting there's a bunch of cancellation going on. You might as well just keep the IB setup, but mount the sub to a piece of MDF. It should stiffen up that area pretty well. The box will just be additional weight and increase your power handling. I'm going to play with a variation of this myself.


@skiracerblah - that's pretty awful. hopefully my idea doesn't go to shit. lol

[nick71692]

I feel the same way...the fender system in my DD GLI actually sounds better than the B&O...thats not to say the b&o is bad, i just want more

[miztahsparklez]

A single 12" has satisfied some of the bass needs for me. But I'd rather have it in a nicer package as it takes up my entire trunk and is super heavy.

[Mbrad]

Miztah/Six, (or any other audio junkie)

I'm still plodding on in my "reinstall" as I am really disappointed by the B/O system. Knowing what I know now, I would have saved the $800 and just gone right to aftermarket stuff.

Anyways, want to try an approach out for you guys to punch holes in/make suggestions.

I have a bunch of left over stuff from a prior car that I am going to use......1) 2 inch deep 8 inch woofers for the doors (Jehnert), Morel hybrid ovations (4 inch with 1 inch tweeters and cross overs), a 10 inch sub (may replace with a JL microsub) all currently powered with a JL 700/5 5 channel amp. This was all in my 335xi as a front stage only system with the rear 2 speaker driven by headunit. The 4 inchers wont fit but I'm considering buying the level up Morel 3 inchers and dropping them in left and right (might even just cut the middle speaker out!) and using my existing crossovers. What I was thinking (and may be a cheaper approach than an MS8) is to sum what you call channels 2/3/8 above to create a full range signal with a JL summing thingy and then "deprocess" that signal with a cleansweep to get a flat signal to pass to my amp. Then I can have a good front set up with the B/O just adding fill to the back.

Thoughts on my approach or updates on what you guys have done would be appreciated.

Thanks

[miztahsparklez]

I've cheated. I bought the Audison DA1 bit/mobridge DA1.

This gives me optical out to my processor. However, there is another mobridge product that can give you RCA out. This is the best method of getting the cleanest signal from the MOST bus.

Good luck on running new speaker wire to the door. No bigger than 16ga, and you must get creative when running the cabling. For the mid bass, I used existing cabling. There's no way around it. I've got everything hooked up in the front plus subs. No rear speakers, as I don't have any more channels out on my processor.

[VZWalex]

It's interesting to see how different the B&O sounds form one vehicle to another. I have heard it in theA4/S4 platform and it sounds nothing like it does in my Q5. In the Q5 it sounds great and wouldn't change anything about it. On the occasional few loaners of A4 with B&O ... it sounds good .. but something is missing ... I take it this is why everyone is looking to upgrade.

[Mbrad]

Oh dang, You just put a fly in my ointment. I was thinking the wire that comes from the b/o amp entered the door, then split into mid/tweet lines (thats what happens in my bmw -- of course, both the mid and tweet are in the door!). That was just pure silly. If I could find where t17 connector is I think i put my cross over there and use the factory wires but pretty sure that is a pipe dream. Hell maybe ill just go two way, feed the door woofers via the factory wires and put a passive in the door. At this point MS8 and their ilk are starting to sound more attractive.....my wife is gonna kill me!

[miztahsparklez]

The wires I posted are true... but how useful they are, not so much.. You can definitely use it to get all the analog outputs from the amp to feed the bit one or ms8.

From what I could tell, the tweeter splits off in the door harness, not inside the car like I thought. I believe it's a full signal going to the tweeter and the capacitor on the tweet is the only crossover. I certainly didn't have the patience to sit through and test all of the wires. The ones going to the factory tweeter was so tiny. Not worth it. So I have the factory 16ga wire and the additional 16ga I ran through the factory door harness. Note that it is almost impossible to run anything through the door harness. You will have to do some modification there to make it work, or find some wires that are not being used.

Mids are easy, those are separate cables since they are on the dash. I just ran new wires there. All are pretty accessible. I also have the center speaker with new cabling as well.

I do have one channel left on a small 150w x 2 amp. I was thinking of using this to power the rear door speakers in mono, but I'm out of channels. I 'll have to get a Bit.ten or some other processor to add them in. Probably not worth the effort. I usually run rear speakers mono and really delayed. This creates a "surround sound" effect and actually makes the car go from a very narrow stage to a huge room. It does not take away from the staging at all.

I'm currently thinking of upgrading the midranges/center that I picked out. They are good, but i think they are lacking a little bit on the low end. I don't think i'm getting quite the authority I'm used to (i did a line array of 4 2" full ranges on each side in a prior vehicle).

To be honest, running passives will be a lot of work for little gain. I also hate putting crossovers in doors. I don't think they belong there. If you want to have decent sound on a budget, upgrade the midrange and center speakers in the dash and add a sub. I was satisfied with this, but I like things loud and detailed.

[Mbrad]

Thanks for the input. I have noticed from other posts that Audison 3.0 speakers do well in the dash. Is that what you used? If not, what did you try?

I do have 8inch flat woofers that I will swap into the doors (see if the b/o can drive them; if not, I can just amp the b/o signal and use the factory wires (amp takes speaker level inputs)) and may just go with my morel silk tweeters with a cap running of the b/o. At some point I will likely try to get wire through the door harness but want some instant improvement!

[miztahsparklez]

I used the Dayton audio RS75-4. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-380

They sound good for the price, might need to EQ a little more to make it work, but if I don't like it, I'm gonna swap them. For most people they would be fine. I'm gonna try to see if I can run with one of my Aura nsw2 in place of each, but I'm afraid it won't be loud enough. I don't want to do the Audison voce 3.0 unless I absolutely have to. $400 is a lot to spend on speakers.

I may eventually have tweeter pods made for the pillars. The stock locations have got to be the worst I've ever seen in a car. But they seem to work okay.

For the door speakers you may need to build a 1.5" baffle to put the speaker in. You will need the space as the window rail is right behind the center of the speaker. I have 7" speakers in the doors mounted offset to give me more clearance.

[cspcrx]

It's interesting to see how different the B&O sounds form one vehicle to another. I have heard it in theA4/S4 platform and it sounds nothing like it does in my Q5. In the Q5 it sounds great and wouldn't change anything about it. On the occasional few loaners of A4 with B&O ... it sounds good .. but something is missing ... I take it this is why everyone is looking to upgrade.

It seems a lot of sound is washed off of the windshield. I noticed the other day when I flipped my visor down, to block the sun, the sound changed. Lost a lot of the highs.

[niner]

I used the Dayton audio RS75-4. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-380

They sound good for the price, might need to EQ a little more to make it work, but if I don't like it, I'm gonna swap them. For most people they would be fine. I'm gonna try to see if I can run with one of my Aura nsw2 in place of each, but I'm afraid it won't be loud enough. I don't want to do the Audison voce 3.0 unless I absolutely have to. $400 is a lot to spend on speakers.

I thought you have Audison DA1 -> BitOne. How do you get center channel? I thought DA1 has 2 channel output only. I just order an Audison DA1 myself, so I would love to hear your experience.

[miztahsparklez]

@cspcrx - I think a lot of it has to do with the tweeter position.

@niner - the da1 is stereo out. But the bit one does processing for a center channel. I have a 3 way up front, then one channel for center and one channel for sub. Most people would be happy with how it sounds now.

[Mbrad]

On a different note, putting in my Alu Kruez in a few minutes at a buddies house. Maybe improved road feel will let me stop obsessing about what is, in actuality, a pretty good oem system!

[miztahsparklez]

Haha, it's only short lived.. The engine noise and feel is great, but you'll always come back for some tunes.

[dbX79]

Not upgrading mine. Leaving it just the way it is. I thought about getting some more bass from it but I already paid so I'm keeping what I have. I'm ok with how it sounds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[niner]

@niner - the da1 is stereo out. But the bit one does processing for a center channel. I have a 3 way up front, then one channel for center and one channel for sub. Most people would be happy with how it sounds now.

I didn't know Bit One can generate the center channel. Thank you!
Me too, I'm going to run active 3-way up front with sub. I may pick up an Bit TenD at a later time for rear channels.

[miztahsparklez]

Just an idea ;)

[cspcrx]

How did you secure it to the deck?

[Audi X2]

Here are some pictures from my 2010 S4. I retained the B/O system and added a JL Audio 13TW5 in an enclosure that was mounted to the underside of the rear deck. It was powered bya JL amp and a subwoofer level control was installed up front.
I had always considered doing the Audison BIT processor, but never moved forward with it.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

[alias747]

That sweet looking setup, but man there would be no room for my golf clubs after that!

[cspcrx]

I do not imagin there is any deck flex with that setup!

Kind of what I am thinking about but with a twist. I want to pull the stock sub, have a .5 cuft box made to attach under the deck that fires a 10inch sub up through the stock hole. This way inside the car it looks totally stock.

Looking at using a JL 10TW3-D4 which is a slim sub. This would allow for a very shallow box so I can keep as much truck space as possible. Going Friday to talk to a shop about some options.

[miztahsparklez]

Drilled holes and mounted it with long bolts and locknuts/washers. I plan to finish off the wood baffle with carpet to make it more OEM. I cut a huge hole on the right side to accommodate the second sub.

For a pair of 10s, I have never heard anything drop as low as these do. Very well balanced. I removed the b&o rear grills and wrapped the whole thing in grill cloth. Looks almost factory from inside the cabin.

Also, don't mind the wire that's hanging out. That's for the trunk light. I haven't figured out where I want to remount it.

[pablo906]

the doors and pillars sound pretty good. Throw a sub in there and disconnect the factory sub and see what you think. You'll be surprised. My main gripe is the flex of the rear deck. I've been trying to figure out how to stop that rattle for a year. I've tried dynamat with no luck.

[Mbrad]

Ok, Mitza, I took the took the simple version of your approach and then it .... evolved. I added a sub using my existing amp (jl 700/5). Much improved. But then when that smooth bass was coming I realized just how tinny the dash mids really were (I'm pretty sure they were getting the full range of mid/tweeter signal and they really shit the bed up high). Even my wife pointed it out. So then I ordered fountek 3 inch 8ohms to replace. When I pulled the stock mids, they were 4 ohm (I got some bad info somewhere else) and the fountek didn't fit easily so I returned them without even testing. Then I ordered the Dayton 75's as you suggested. they fit but would need some mock up work for a right to hold them in ... so, I play a lot of poker and hit BIG one day so I bought the audisons. But I didn't want to run them full range so out comes the wire cutters and the new speaker wire......

Long story short, I summed the front stage and the sub with a signal summer and provided it to a cleansweep to remove factor eq on the front ... Running sub <90, mids 90-250 (@75W/channel), front > 250 crossed passively at 2.5 with the audisons and my old morel tweeters in the stock b/o location. NIGHT AND DAY difference. Because I had everything but the signal summer and the audisons, total cost = $400.

I am going to put one of the daytons in the center or just delete it. Does anyone know if the center is required for phone?

[Deckdout2]

I went this route......

This is in my build thread, but I thought I'd add it to this thread if it helps anybody else wanting to go this direction.

I originally had a Hertz HX-300D which was a 12". After getting the mold for the fiberglass done, the way it would have fit into the space would not have come out as clean as it did, and I'm all about form and function. I opted to move down to a Hertz HX-250D 10". Power difference is 1200W Peak/600W RMS for the HX-300D vs 900W Peak/450W RMS for the HX-250D. Because the volume issue and the efficiency range, the HX-250D performed at a much better/louder range than the HX-300D would have. It's more punchy, but with the same box, the 10" still hits lower.

For the Amp I went with the Audison LRx 1.1k 1090W. I only have this bridged down to RMS Power @13.8V @2 ohm 1 x 800 watts. I have multiple options as seen in the specs below but, this is the best setup for this sub. Plus the whole setup itself is so much overkill for me it's not even funny. I love it! HA.

I have the gain controller installed in the pocket to the left of the cupholders. It fit perfect, and the lights sickly match up with the rest of the interior.

Hertz HX-250D
Specs Chart: http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_hx250d.pdf
Size: 250mm (10")
Sensitivity: 88dB/SPL
Comp: Dual Coil Sub
Power Handling: 900W Peak/450W RMS
Impedance: 4ohm + 4ohm

Audison LRx 1.1k
RMS Power @13.8V @4 ohm 1 x 420 watts
RMS Power @13.8V @2 ohm 1 x 800 watts
RMS Power @13.8V @1 ohm 1 x 1090 watts
Damping Factor 1khz,4ohm 120
S/N Ratio (a weighted @1V) 100dB
Crossover Bypass Yes
Crossover Hi-Pass 50-5kHz @12dB
Crossover Lo-Pass 50-5kHz @12/24(mono)dB
THD @ 1kHz 0.04%
S/N Ratio (a weighted @1V) 100dB
Size: 198mm x 438mmx 56mm

































You can kinda see the gain controller here.....

[IceyTys]

I'm about to dip into the audio upgrade myself to get some addional bass. I'm going to swap the stock sub for a 8 ohm 10" kicker competition model, but I also want to add an additional amp and sub. My only question is for getting the input signal for the additional amp, I plan on tapping of the factory sub signal after the B&O amp, but what I'm confused about is there's only 1 sub output (mono signal) and most amps and/or line converters have both a left AND right channels, so do I just wire up one only side of my input source, or wire up both (L & R together) parallel from the single factory sub output?

Thx for the help as I've searched many threads and no luck.

[miztahsparklez]

Use a jumper wire from each + and - so that both channels on the LOC is receiving the same signal from the sub.

I'd recommend to remove the factory sub completely and not replace it if you are running an additional sub. It will sound much better than having two different ones. In some cases it might even sound louder.