DIY - Axle Replacement: UPDATED Version

[geeky]

So I had to replace both my front axles today (pretty sure they've never been replaced from the looks of it or maybe once if that). But anyway, I originally followed this DIY article on the zine because my axles looked like this (after I pulled them)



But to replace the entire half shaft, here's the write up with a little bit of info so you guys never have to remove a pinch bolt or lower control arm to replace the axles now, the updated method was found out with the help from Jordan (ThatA4t) and his friend (Ben). Everything bolded is new information and helpful hints that I have placed in this DIY. To replace an axle shouldn't take longer than 30 minutes, especially if you have access to air tools and a lift using these helpful hints.

Tools needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
Breaker bar (You may need a cheater bar as well)

Depending on what style collar bolt you have you will either need a 14mm allen socket, or a 27mm socket. -- Look to see first before you go and spend money on the wrong tool.

You can find the 14mm allen socket in a kit that comes with a 10,14, and 17mm at Advanced Auto Parts.

If you need the socket you can pick one up at sears (Kinda pricey, but worth it... $25)

You also need a 12pt star bit (Found at napa) - 8mm



1. Remove the center cap from your wheel to expose the collar bolt/axle bolt. Inspect the ead of it to determine if you need the allen socket or a regular socket.

2. Hook up your socket and your breaker bar and break the collar bolt loose. I ended up standing on my breaker bar as the bolt was pretty much fused to the hub. (Use an impact if available, but that should be common sense

Once it is broken loose, the bolt will be finger tight (believe me, I dar near bit the dust when I broke it loose)

3. Jack up the car (Both sides) and secure it with the jack stands.

4. Pull off the tire and remove the collar bolt.

5. Remove the 12pt bolts (x6) from the inner CV joint using your 12pt star bit. The star bit is an 8mm

6. Once those are all loose you *should* be able to swing the axle up over the diff cap (up into the engine bay, towards the back of the car) and pull the axle out.

This is where it becomes the updated version, do NOT swing it up as it gets caught. Turning the wheel does not do anything for clearence. At this point, all bolts connecting the axle to the hub and the transmission should be out. Jack up the hub as far as it'll go so that the axle hangs at a 45*. At this point, the CV joint by the transmission will drop out of the diff cup and the axle will be laying on your subframe/connected at the hub. Hammer out the old axle from the hub and it'll come straight out through the bottom of the car next to the transmission tunnel. They will come out from the red circled area.



Depending on how the axle is assembled you may have to pull the wheel bearing housing loose to make enough room to do this, but with both of the axles I replaced (in the front end of the car) all I had to do was swing the axle up to the top back of the engine bay.

If it seems like your tolerances are really close, you might be able to make a little more room by turning the wheel all the way to the right or left, and try to "finess" it out of its home.

While you have the axle out, it may be a good time to change the wheel bearings (Provided you have a hub removal tool, and an on-the-car wheel bearing press).

7. Install in reverse order. I believe the collar bolt is supposed to be torqued to 95 ft-lbs and then turned another quarter turn (Some serious torque).

I've done two, can do the whole job in like a half an hour (if I don't change the wheel bearings). Pretty piece of cake. Don't forget to pack the grease in the inner CV joint... Oh, and don't get any of that grease in your hair *YUCK!*

[ianwpb]

That's definitely a great way to do it if you don't want to remove the pinch bolt.

My pinch bolt comes out no problem though so I usually do it that way. Next time I'll try this though. Thanks.

[Seerlah]

I removed the rear lower CA at the knuckle, cut the wheel, and it drops out (once unbolted). It can also be tricky removing the 12 point 8mm bolts on the tranny. I lowered the other side with tire on the ground so the axle did not turn when I unbolted those. And the angles can get annoying, so I lifted that corner back up, rotated the axle by hand to get another good angle, lowered the side with the tire again, then unbolted the rest. Same thing when torquing the back. You can also get to them easy with a ratchet and long extension, sitting down in front of the rotor/hub. Don't forget a replacement gasket for the axle flange on the tranny.

[ianwpb]

I removed the rear lower CA at the knuckle, cut the wheel, and it drops out (one unbolted). It can also be tricky removing the 12 point 8mm bolts on the tranny. I lowered the other side with tire on the ground so the axle did not turn when I unbolted those. And the angles can get annoying, so I lifted that corner back up, rotated the axle by hand to get another good angle, lowered the side with the tire again, then unbolted the rest. Same thing when torquing the back. You can also get to them easy with a ratchet and long extension, sitting down in front of the rotor/hub. Don't forget a replacement gasket for the axle flange on the tranny.

Next time have a friend there to press on the brakes for you.

[SS92]

I wish this was up two days ago... I replaced mine but ruined my lower CA.

Curious, did you guys line up the axle at a certain point or can it be put in at any point? I mean... no markings on the shaft to line up at the trans if that makes sense?

[Seerlah]

It can go on anyway.

I didn't even think about the brakes. I could have simply placed on a prop, then wedged it against the seat . Either way, got it done.

Here is what the one I replaced looked like. Did it maybe 3 weeks ago.

[geeky]

I usually just put a lug bolt into the rotor/hub then I put a screw driver into the rotor and rest it against the brake caliper to prevent the axle from spining when torquing down the inner CV. And Seerlah, the way I did it, you don't have to remove any of the lower CA bolts or the pinch bolt. Nothing in the suspension is touched.

[seanf86]

on my 97 the driverside I just turned the wheels to the right and the axle came right out, the passenger side I had to do the pinch bolt cause I tried and tried and it wouldnt come out without taking the damn thing out, on my b6 both axles come out without taking anything apart

[walky_talky20]

Just so somebody mentions this - the methods described in this thread probably won't work if you have a tiptronic transmission. There is just less room all around with that huge slob of a tranny. On my '01 5MT, I was able to install the drivers side axle, but the passengers side was just too tight, so I just dropped the lower rear link. Not sure if the larger outer CV's have anything to do with the success rate on that.

[Trky]

I've replaced both front axles on my tip tranny without removing anything other than the axle bolt and the 6 bolts on the tranny while my wheels were straight. It's a little tricky getting the new axle in but it can be done. Takes roughly 20-30 minutes per side.

[DRock3d]

Next time have a friend there to press on the brakes for you.

I have a 2x4 cut just for that in my garage, I just prop it on the seat and slide the seat up to hold it in place.

[ianwpb]

I have a 2x4 cut just for that in my garage, I just prop it on the seat and slide the seat up to hold it in place.

Good idea.

I like having someone else there though that way I can have them release the brake so I can turn the axle and not have to move the socket too much since it's like 2.5 ft worth of extensions and they tend to fall apart if you hit stuff. I just tighten one, release the brake, move the axle, press brake, repeat.

Do you guys have to use a bunch of extensions too? My 12pt socket is too long to get in there with a torque wrench/socket wrench.

[A4Qwattro]

Just so somebody mentions this - the methods described in this thread probably won't work if you have a tiptronic transmission. There is just less room all around with that huge slob of a tranny. On my '01 5MT, I was able to install the drivers side axle, but the passengers side was just too tight, so I just dropped the lower rear link. Not sure if the larger outer CV's have anything to do with the success rate on that.

Back from the dead....
Good point on the different transmissions. I just did this on a driver side front. I found that for a 1.8T manual there is a ton of room to remove.. Just push the inner part of the axle up and rearward into the empty area above the transmission until the outer joint is out of the hub. No steering (which means you don't even need to lift both sides of the car). No jacking the hub

This might be more complicated with a bigger transmission and/or a V6 engine.