UPDATE REGARDING CLARIFICATION FOR 100k SERVICE INTERVAL POSTED ON PAGE 2.
Sorry guys for my delayed presence in this thread. With the move still keeping me busy with equipment setup, purchases, etc to fill out our new spot, our Grand Opening, going to and planning for Wuste with my crew and overall daily running of JHM and continuing to work on B6-B7 S4 products for you guys I am just behind. So I apologize for now love lately as well here on the boards.
My lack of presence lately is also due to all of your wonderful support of JHM and drowning us in phone calls, emails and PMs. So about 2 years ago I began to really concentrate on training and building a strong team of guys to support you when you call, email or PM. I didn't just want to go on a hiring frenzy and have someone with no knowledge or training assisting you. So even though we have been behind for a couple years we are getting near caught up with a additional sales employees. Unfortunately I couldn't hire 4 or 5 guys right out of the gate since it takes time to slowly show each guy the JHM way and make sure they learn something new every day. Once again thanks everyone for your support, I am doing my best to move forward with better support and more V8 specific products.
So here is a clarification on what my guys put in the product description that has already been updated. Sorry for it being too short and not clarified properly. Ultimately it is my fault for not grooming this thread with a fine tooth comb sooner. But it is a non issue about the 100k since many fail prior or act up prior to 100k as well.
Here is what I updated all the product pages and first post with.
The local Audi service departments we talk to recommend performing this service when your vehicle reaches 100,000 miles, with that being said we've seen symptoms of various forms of timing chain failures much sooner than that. With that being said the chain system on these cars should technically last the 'lifetime" of the car but unfortunately for our customers the engineers who designed this setup were wrong and failures occur regularly much earlier than even 100k. We are just here to help with parts and information to help you make your own decision based on the actual facts of what happened with these cars in the real world. This is in addition to the calls we receive from our customers on a weekly basis regarding some form of timing chain issue with their car. We have regularly seen the famous chain knock on cold start with cars that are quite new. This has been accepted by most due to its normalcy. The big concern is when they knock on warm restarts and can slap and damage other components or collapse at high rpm. We have also seen complete failures of guides and or the mechanical cam adjuster as early as 50k to 80k. Guide failures can lead to more damage to other components. If you have one mechanical cam adjuster fail, it causes one half of the motor to miss fire and sometimes damages the very pricey electric cam adjuster actuator which is included in our FULL and FULL plus kit. With that being said if your car has made it to 100k with minor or no issues it isn't a bad idea to do the service regardless to prevent damage to other components or getting stranded by a car running on half the cylinders. We see and hear of VERY few that fail in the 110k plus range. That doesn't mean they don't last on some cars, we just get more calls and local work on cars under 100k.
Sorry for rambling, I just wanted to get you guys updated and clarified regarding the above concerns. Plus I am still recovering from Wuste and Las Vegas and virtually no sleep.
Thanks again everyone and also to those who have ordered kits thus far.
TECH INFO REGARDING THESE KITS AND ASSISTANCE IN DIAGNOSIS. Come back for updates. I also made a new thread for ease of search and I will also update my second post in this section so all this info will be on the first page. I will do my best to bring more info and some pics soon.
CODES WE NORMALLY SEE FOR THE MECHANICAL ADJUSTER FAILURE ON ONE SIDE OF THE MOTOR.
9 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
16690 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
16691 - Cylinder 7
P0307 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
16689 - Cylinder 5
P0305 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
16692 - Cylinder 8
P0308 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
17755 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1347 - 002 - Incor. Correl. - MIL ON
16730 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G163)
P0346 - 004 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96)
P0106 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
So what does this indicate? I will explain.
1. The random multiple missfire is just indicating that it saw more than one cylinder missfire at a given time.
2. The missfires for cylinders 5,6,7,8 indicates that BANK 2, the drivers side of the motor is missfiring. This is the first indicator of the infamous mechanical cam adjuster failure in our intermediate kit.
3. You will also notice that in this particular case it missfired on cylinder 2. This is caused by the fact that half the motor is basically dead and it works harder thus making cylinders on the other side harder to fire if everything isn't 100% perfect (compression, spark plug, coil, injector, etc)
4. The Camshaft Position Sensor code for "Incorrect Correlation" is the dead give away. It is telling you that either the cam is out of phase mechanically or someone put the reluctor wheel on wrong on the end of the adjuster that the sensor reads. NOTE: This code usually takes time to occur. Your generally get the next code first that causes people to jump the gun and buy a cam sensor. Unfortunately these RARELY fail.
5. The Camshaft Position Sensor code for "Implausible Signal" makes you think it is a bad sensor and is the first code that occurs in most cases. So don't jump the gun and swap the sensor. Using Ross-Tech log blocks 091, 092 and 093 and email them to us at
[email protected] and my guys will make sure that I look at the log to help assist in diagnosis.
6. Is another code that doesn't always occur. Your car does not have a Baro sensor but uses the MAF to calculate it. This code is caused by the excess reversion of air coming back into the intake from the cams being out and throwing it off. Yes you can get this code for a bad MAF but much of the time it is does to a timing chain issue or other major mechanical failure and accompanied by other codes.
So with this car we did a complete chain job because of the bad adjuster and this car also clacked really bad even on a hot restart. After doing the chain job ALL codes did not return. We did inform the customer that if the cylinder 2 missfire or MAF code came back since we can't 100% confirm they are good or bad due to the obvious major mechanical failure we would then need to charge for further diagnosis.
Furthermore we did a compression test on this car and got compression in the 75 to 110 psi range on all 4 cylinders on Bank 2 which is low, also a dead give away of a mechanical failure.
Bottom line if you have cam sensor codes, check compression and get us those logs. If your compression is fine and you don't have a Correlation code then most likely it is only a sensor or wiring to it. WOOHOO, that would be nice huh?
Also if you had this issue on Bank 1 the codes would have the same description for the cam but be a different number for the other bank. Also your missfires would be on cylinder 1,2,3,4 and those codes would be different.
KIT SUMMARY AND ADDITIONAL INFO FROM JHM
We have not seen the chains fail. The Electric Cam Adjuster Actuators are the lowest failure rate behind the chains since we haven't seen a broken chain yet. The usually only fail if the mechanical adjuster gets really bad and chews it up. They do have a small guide on them that is not replaceable, however most cars around 100k show very little wear. So if yours is worn you should replace it. The accessory chain guide on the other hand wears BADLY on average. The Mechanical adjusters fail most prevalently giving the cam codes I posted above depending on the bank. Also one of the main guides is hairline cracked, cracked or busted on ALL the jobs we have done. So that is why the minimal kit has guides and tensioners for low mileage guys. That way they address the tensioners for the clack and the guides for the updated parts.
Also we put the chains as an option since even back in the 90s and prior, overhead cam chains were known for going 300k plus (for example the 4.6l ford V8 for a closer match to this). Their chains were longer and I doubt made as well since I haven't touched a mustang in many years and don't care to any more. :) But as you know many people believe in changing EVERYTHING in there due to piece of mind and saving on labor. That is why we give chains as an option for all kits.
The
minimal kit is for those with low mileage and just the annoying morning start up clack. Except there is no guarantee that the mechanical adjusters in the intermediate kit won't fail down the road since we have seen those go as early as around 50k.
The
intermediate kit is going to be for most customers so they don't have to worry about mechanical adjuster failures and the associated missfires in half the engine and cam codes even after changing the other parts and having to take it apart again.
The
full kit will be for HIGH mileage cars in the 100k plus range where their guides look worn. With that being said, most of the cars we see in the 110k to 120k range still look good. So it may be cars in the mid to high 100k cars that it will be required. Also the high mileage kit is for those ONE AND DONE kind of guys.
Once again we recommend replacing EVERYTHING for piece of mind and to avoid taking or paying to take the car apart again and spending more in the long run. We could just only sell a full kit but we know everyone likes honest information from us based on actual experience. Plus this makes your own decision based on the condition of the parts, how it was driven and how long you plan on keeping it easier to pick the right kit for you.
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