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  1. #1
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    42276
    Location
    Syracuse, NY

    P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High

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    16727/P0343/000835 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High

    I have this code. It usually takes 2-3 tries before the engine turns over.

    2001 1.8TQM AWM

    Possible Causes
    • Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
    • Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
    • Timing misaligned


    I have:
    • Replaced Cam Position Sensor (6mo ago)
    • Checked continuity from CPS to ECU
    • Verified timing



    Today I replaced my failed hydraulic TB tensioner with the IE manual one. I had hoped that this was the cause the DTC, but it wasn't. I double checked the timing with the factory marks.

    Last week, I pulled off the CPS and saw that one of the prongs in the connector was pushed in a little bit. So, I pulled it out to the correct length and glued it in place. This did not correct the DTC. I'm wondering if this CPS is just a piece of junk (MTC brand from ECS) and I should replace it with Bosch or the like.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 09 2012
    AZ Member #
    93309
    My Garage
    2004 Odyssey EX-L
    Location
    Binghamton, NY

    Have you tried actively clearing the code? Or are you just doing work and waiting for the light to go out? A cam phasing fault code could have an effect on emissions so it may require you to actively reset the light.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    42276
    Location
    Syracuse, NY

    Yes. It instantly comes back when the car is running.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2010
    AZ Member #
    53866
    Location
    melbourne australia

    Have you checked power, ground and the signal wires with a multimeter? Not a continuity check.
    96 A4 1.8TQ
    FRANKEN TURBO K03-073, 1 BAR CHIP, SUPERTECH VALVES, PORT N POLISH, JE PISTONS, SCAT RODS, 034 MANIFOLD & FMIC, FIDANZA FW & SOUTHBEND STG 3, BILSTEIN & H&R, 3IN EXHAUST, CUSTOM AIR BOX, APR DV, DBA SLOTTED, RED STUFF.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbo Nerd's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    42386
    My Garage
    B5 A4, B5 S4, C5 Allroad, C5 A6
    Location
    Detroit Metro Area

    You might have a possible faulty can chain tensioner... That will also cause that DTC to show up.

  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 26 2012
    AZ Member #
    88889
    Location
    America

    you can directly clear the fault code!!!!!

    _______________________________
    vag car model airbag reset supplier

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    42276
    Location
    Syracuse, NY

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarshall View Post
    Have you checked power, ground and the signal wires with a multimeter? Not a continuity check.
    Yup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo Nerd View Post
    You might have a possible faulty can chain tensioner... That will also cause that DTC to show up.
    Wouldn't I hear the rattling from it?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 30 2008
    AZ Member #
    30427
    Location
    Erie, Pennsylvania

    A bad CCT won't cause the car to randomly not start, though. Failure of the Cam sensor (or just unplugging it) will cause the engine to only start with about a 40% success rate. Usually have to try 2 or more times to get it to fire. Sometimes there can be a backfire involved because the ignition and fuel injection are 180 degrees out of sync with the valve-train. Simply put, without a good signal from the Cam Sensor, the ECU takes a "guess" as to which stroke is the compression stroke. It knows where TDC is from the crank sensor, but without the cam sensor it has a 50/50 chance of guessing the stroke correctly. The kicker is that it always guesses the same thing, it just depends on where the engine comes to rest as to whether that "guess" is correct or not. On a 1.8T, most of the time it seems to come to rest in the wrong spot. So you have to try a few times before the magic happens.

    So the problem is almost definitely the lack of a good signal from the cam sensor. The best thing to do would be to swap the sensor with a car that is working fine. Then you instantly know where the trouble is. The scientific way would be to put a scope on the cam sensor signal wire and see what the waveform looks like compared to a known good signal. That would confirm the diagnosis without actually touching any parts.

    Most likely this is all caused by you cheaping out and buying a chinese cam sensor. Because it is electrical, ECS probably won't help you. Personally, I'd rather find a used Genuine Audi part than get another chinese piece. But it's up to you.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    2000 Satin Silver Passat 1.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, 15" Hubcaps
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 09 2009
    AZ Member #
    42276
    Location
    Syracuse, NY

    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    A bad CCT won't cause the car to randomly not start, though. Failure of the Cam sensor (or just unplugging it) will cause the engine to only start with about a 40% success rate. Usually have to try 2 or more times to get it to fire. Sometimes there can be a backfire involved because the ignition and fuel injection are 180 degrees out of sync with the valve-train. Simply put, without a good signal from the Cam Sensor, the ECU takes a "guess" as to which stroke is the compression stroke. It knows where TDC is from the crank sensor, but without the cam sensor it has a 50/50 chance of guessing the stroke correctly. The kicker is that it always guesses the same thing, it just depends on where the engine comes to rest as to whether that "guess" is correct or not. On a 1.8T, most of the time it seems to come to rest in the wrong spot. So you have to try a few times before the magic happens.

    So the problem is almost definitely the lack of a good signal from the cam sensor. The best thing to do would be to swap the sensor with a car that is working fine. Then you instantly know where the trouble is. The scientific way would be to put a scope on the cam sensor signal wire and see what the waveform looks like compared to a known good signal. That would confirm the diagnosis without actually touching any parts.

    Most likely this is all caused by you cheaping out and buying a chinese cam sensor. Because it is electrical, ECS probably won't help you. Personally, I'd rather find a used Genuine Audi part than get another chinese piece. But it's up to you.
    Thanks Walky. I did some logging in VCDS and my ignition is firing at about 20 deg BTDC at idle, instead of 0~12 deg BTDC, which seems to point to a faulty sensor.

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