1) Jack up the car on either side. Put a stand underneath for extra precaution as you will be under the car for a few seconds.
2) Remove the plastic belly pan by first unscrewing a couple plastic screws in the wheel hub area (right in front of the tires) if they are connected. Only the screws on one side of my car were there. You will have to turn the wheels to get to them. You need a fat flat head or phillips to get them off or some pliers.
Next, remove about 9 locking screws on the underside of the pan with a flathead (assuming all are there). There are about 6 in the front one in the middle and two towards the back of the pan. Something like that. A couple of mine were missing so...anyway, very simple to figure out.
3) Slide the belly pan out.
4) Pop the hood and remove the oil cap.
5) Drain the oil using an 18mm/19mm wrench/socket or a 10mm allen wrench for the 4.2. You don't need to jack the car back up if your oil drainage pan can fit under the car like mine. The drain plug is right at the front of the car on the passenger's side. You can't miss it. Be sure not to lose the washer that is on the drain plug (bolt). Again the 4.2 engine is slightly different. The drain plug is removed using a 10mm allen wrench and can be seen in the photo below (the pic with the black oil pan).
6) While it's draining pull off the plastic cover that has the audi symbol on it located under the hood. Remove it by pulling it towards the front of the car. You will now see the oil filter sitting right in front of you, just right of the cylinder head.
7) Lay a towel down next to the oil filter housing. Get a big adjustable wrench or large pliers (wrench works a lot better though) and turn counter clockwise. Unscrew and pull the oil filter/oil filter cap which is all connected.
8) Once you remove it, make sure you turn it upside down so oil doesnt drip everywhere. What you are pulling off is the oil cap that has sort of like a plastic paper towel holder attached which slides through the middle of the oil filter.
9) Remove the two old black rubber gaskets (one big with a tab and another smaller one). The bigger gasket will be in the cap that you just removed and are still holding upside down. Use needle nose pliers to take it out. The smaller gasket will be on the housing that is attached to the car above the male threads.
10) Now yank off the oil filter (sort of like taking a roll of paper towels and pulling them off the holder).
11) Slide the new filter on making sure it snaps in. Lube the large gasket with oil and put it back in the cap. Place the smaller gasket back on the oil filter housing. See line 12 for detailed instructions.
12)17 Engine oil service - filter cartridge replacement-2.pdf
13) Now take the oil cap/filter and screw it back on. You will have to press down and turn. Hand tighten and then get your wrench and tighten it back up if necessary (usually isn't). There is a line on the oil filter cap that should line up with the line on the oil filter chamber.
14) Put the drain plug back on. Fill her up. The manual calls for 6.9 quarts. I would check the level at 6 quarts (on a flat surface) and put no ore than 6.5 quarts in. I used mobile 1 full synthetic 0w-40. Also, I noticed that the oil readings are lower after the car has run, so you may want to wait until the car has been sitting for several hours to check the true level.
15) Turn the car on. Check for leaks. Turn her off if all is good.
16) Jack her back up and put the plastic belly pan back on.
17) Reset service reminder with vag-com if available by going to "SRI Reset" on the main screen and then selecting reset from the top drop down menu. Then press "Perform SRI Reset" at the bottom of the page.
Originally Posted by OmaHahn
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