Any DIY for replacing A/C compressor? if not, is it in Bentley manual?

[Agro]

I cannot seem to find any DIY info for doing this. I want to swap my compressor, drier and expansion device. I have swapped my thermostat, fans, and a few other things, but yet to get in to A/C. wondering if anyone knows of any howto online? I am also thinking that a repair manual would be a good investment, heck I already have a VCDS why not a manual too, right? So I am wondering if the various manuals out there cover this? I think the Bentley is regarded as the best, but there are others out there for way cheaper in the $18-$24 range.

[Charles.waite]

Both the Bentley Manual and the Haynes Manual have step by steps for all the A/C system components.

I have both. The Haynes is good in lots of ways, and for the price its an absolute bargain. The Bentley is also good but at the cost its a bit less of a value for the home DIY'er like me. Between the two of them theres LOADS of great information though. The bentley is definitely more thorough and if I could only have one I would take the bentley, but only just barely.

[sa_seahawker]

1. evacuate a/c.
2. replace compressor after removing s-belt

[Agro]

1. evacuate a/c.
2. replace compressor after removing s-belt

Yeah that is exactly as I have envisioned it. I just dont wnat to waste time trying to see how little I can remove in order to get to removing all the parts and ultimately have to remove a lot more of the car. I figure the manual will tell me what i need. I'm going to pick up that Haynes as Charles says.

Thank you too Charles.

[erikj]

Yeah, It's pretty straight forward (did mine last weekend):
Evacuate ac system. The compressor is accessible from the bottom of the motor. You may be able to take it off without removing the front end, although it might be a pain getting the s-belt back on. Besides that, just replace the dryer and orifice tube. Dryer is a big canister under the passenger headlight, orifice tube is inside the bolted-together joint near the top passenger side of the engine bay.

Leave the heat on "hi" or don't turn on the hvac system until you get someone to purge, oil, and recharge the system.

Compressor off automotix for $200, drier and o-tube for about $35, did my own labor, and another $200 to have the refrigerant work done.

[Charles.waite]

You can get it off. Just drain the coolant, Loosen the accessory belt, take off the Alternator, then the A/C condenser should be right there. (I think. It could be the P/S pump)

[Seerlah]

^A/C compressor is on other side of front end. But you can do it without removing the front end. I was going to do it myself, but my mechanic charged such a good price that it was not worth me going to a local shop, have them remove the freon, vacuum, drive home, install it, drive back to them and have them install it back. My mechanic charged me something like $70 (can't recall exact price), so I said f*ck it.

[sa_seahawker]

Make sure you use a shop/mechanic to evacuate it though. You don't want to vent the freon into the atmosphere. Bad for the environment and could be hazardous to your health if you take a whiff of that. Plus, I think it's illegal to vent it to the atmosphere anyway.

[Agro]

I had the TB off and then the alternator (doing the thermostat replacement) and it looked like the PS pump was right under it, but I dont remember exactly and not looking at my car now. It does make sense that the AC compressor is probably on the other side of the engine there. I've seen the drier there too. I'll check with the shop by me and see what they might charge to put it in. If it is cheap enough, I wont even do the work myself. Thanks

[Charles.waite]

I had the TB off and then the alternator (doing the thermostat replacement) and it looked like the PS pump was right under it, but I dont remember exactly and not looking at my car now. It does make sense that the AC compressor is probably on the other side of the engine there. I've seen the drier there too. I'll check with the shop by me and see what they might charge to put it in. If it is cheap enough, I wont even do the work myself. Thanks

Yea looks like i was getting the PS pump and AC thing switched, my bad.

[alexza4]

A/C compressor is easily replaced from the underside of the car. There's nothing to it, you really don't need a DIY to do it. Just unbolt the supply and return lines and then the compressor.

[Agro]

A/C compressor is easily replaced from the underside of the car. There's nothing to it, you really don't need a DIY to do it. Just unbolt the supply and return lines and then the compressor.

Thanks Alexza4. I'm suer it'll look obvious when I get there. Like I've said, It may take me a ton of time, but I eventually on my own replaced thermostat, secondary air pump, coolant temp sensor, temp sensor, both front fans, pcv, valve and whole breather system, egr (for secondary air pump) valve, front struts rear shocks, etc. lotsa work and may have taken me 3x what a pro would take. I did order the service manual and it shipped today, so hopefully I can refer to that for added info I need. compressor, drier and the orifice tube should be totally grotesqly simple. wondering though if after i have the shop evacuate it all if I should bother with a "flush". prob not...

[Seerlah]

You need to have your freon properly taken out of your system. You can bring your car to a shop, have them take it out and they will store it for you. Then you take your car home, do some wrenching, return to them, and they'll place it back in. I personally don't know how to properly take freon out of the system.

[Agro]

I got under my car and was looking at the compressor today and it looks easy enough. I got a Haynes manual and read through that and should be straight forward.

The Haynes manual says to put the front radiator support panel in the service position in order to be able to replace the drier. That seems like a real PITA just to get to the drier. It might be necessary though, right? I see the drier from under the car by the SAI pump. I could remove that easily with 1 bolt and then unhook the plastic pipes to it. But to get to the top of the drier I am not sure if I can easily. Maybe if I remove the passenger head light? Thanks.

BTW, all parts came in today and tomorrow I will take my car to the shop to have them totally evacuate the current system. I don't know if when they evacuate the system if the oil in the compressor comes with it? The doc shows that what I am supposed to do is drain out the oil from the old compressor, check how much there is, then drain what is in the new one, then re-fill the new compressor with the same level as the old compressor. I guess if I do this, I am sure hoping that none of the oil leaked out of the bad one. On the new compressor it says ND-OIL-8 on the sticker, but that means nothing to me. hmm

:EDIT:
pulled out drier, need roll pins to put the new one in (properly). Gonna run to HD in a few.
180ml-190ml oil goes in the compressor, that's 6.08 to 6.42. Gotta look and see where that oil comes out of.

:EDIT:
I searched on lots of forum posts and it seems that the Denso OEM compressor comes with the oil in it. I called Audi, I called all over and everyone says Denso ships with the amount. So I decided not to open it up and find out, as I wasnt even sure where to open it.

All done, not charged though. hopefully tomorrow.

[Agro]

A/C is working well.

I have to say that removing the A/C compressor, drier and orifice tube is really a quick job. I bet if you asked me to do it on my car again I could get the whole thing done in less than 30 minutes if need be. I didn't have to remove the bumper and only removed the passenger headlight for a few minutes to put in the new drier (which is easily accessible with the light out). The pack of o-rings that the place gave me didn't have the proper side for the high pressure pipe connecting to the compressor, so I had to run to Audi on Friday and get it. I ended up just buying the other o-rings while I was there, just for GP, you know?

Once I removed the compressor I noticed that when I went to spin the wheel on it, it had no resistance. It felt like spinning a skateboard wheel. Just a wheel on a bearing. Looking at the front of the compressor, it seems that the clutch (if that is what it is) is completely gone (one of those little rubber pieces fell out as I was taking it off, so that is why it is missing it there). So this is obvious to me that I needed a new compressor badly.

Two things I noticed upon re-install. The annoying whirring/whining noise I had seen which was tied directly with engine RPM was gone. I always thought this was a bad power steering pump, but nope, it was the compressor (maybe the bearing being shot). Also, when my car would turn off, as the engine was stopping I would hear little squeeking and squaking and i just figured it was something I'd never know what it was. Both gone. Awesome.

Thank you again for everyone in their replies to me. I was really worried and without AZ help, I don't believe I would have felt comfortable taking this on.

[Seerlah]

Congrats, man

[fabric8]

Had to revive this thread to get answers from you guys with experience with this.

So my A/C compressor on my 02 b6 1.8t is shot - not the compressor itself but the pulley and bearing (died at the end of fall, and I've been running a shorter accessory belt to bypass it all winter). I checked my ac expansion device and it's 100% clear and clean, so I know my compressor didnt' grenade itself, and my condensor/evaporator and lines should be clear.

I'm planning on ordering the compressor kit from discountacparts.com which comes with a new compressor, dryer, expansion device, o-rings and pag oil for $335 shipped.

I was planning on doing all the work myself, but looking at their warranty, they expect an ac flush. Fine, but I don't have any A/C repair equipment so I'd have to spend another $35 on the flush kit (canister with blow gun) + another $35 for the duraflush. Then I'd have to rent the vacuum pump from autozone, as well as the manifold guages. If they don't rent them I'd have to spend about another $200 at harbor freight. And I've also read that the r134 DIY cans from the auto parts stores/walmart can introduce moisture into the lines, so I'm worried going that route.

Now I'm considering doing the install myself but then taking it to a A/C shop to have them do the flush, vaccuum then re-charge. If I go this route, would it be OK to mount the new AC compressor with the correct amount of oil poured into it, and keep the AC lines to it disconnected (keep the protective caps on) and drive it to the shop (AC would be turned off of course)? I'd plan on driving there with the passenger headlight off so the drier is easy to reach and they can flush the lines, condensor and evaporator, then connect the new drier, new expansion device, connect the AC lines to the compressor, then perform the vacuum and finally the recharge.

Would that be the way to go? In other words, since the pulley drives the compressor all the time, is it safe to drive it as long as there's the correct amount of oil in the compressor? Or does the oil need to mix with the refrigerant for proper lubrication of the compressor? Am I better off driving to the shop with the compressor pulley bypassed and just swap out to the correct accessory belt when I get there?

[john_gonzo]

Am I better off driving to the shop with the compressor pulley bypassed and just swap out to the correct accessory belt when I get there?

This. When I did my 3.0 AC, I drove to the shop, gave the AC compressor the recommended number of turns by hand, removed the bypass serpentine belt and installed the full serpentine belt, started it to check the belt, shut if off and went inside to let them know I was there for my appointment.

[Elliott]

If you want to be thankful you have a 1.8T, just google the A/C compressor location for the 4.2 V8 in the S4's, etc.