Time to replace CV axle or ball bearing? Have you done yours?

[akinaboy]

Hi,
I have a 99 A4 Qt, V6 2.8L w/sport package.
Is there anyone on B5 forum who actually replaced CV axle by themselves?

I started hearing some clunking, unsmooth rolling sound coming from the driver side front when I was driving.
It randomly makes this sound but sometimes, it's quiet.

I sneaked my head underneath the car to see the CV boot and the CV boot doesn't seem to be cracked.
Based on research I have done so far, it seems fairly easy job to replace it but I wanted to actually ask someone who has done it on similar year of A4, if there is any trick or things to watch out before I get my hands on it.

I'm thinking about going to Autozone to pick up the CV axle shaft (remanufactured one) for $69.99.
Some of the DIY guides I found were
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...nt-Replacement

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml

I have done many other works on the car by myself but CV axle replacement job would be the first time.

Questions:
1. I took off the center cab off of the wheel and it's an allen bolt there (collar bolt). Does anyone know what size that is?
The first link says 17mm allen socket for his 98 A4 but not sure if it's same for 99 A4.

2. The first link above I included, mentioned about 12pt star bit. Is there any size I need to get?

3. It's an odd question but considering that I have swapped all 4 brake pads and rotors in 2 hours, how long would this axle replacing job take me? (of course in your opinion)

Thank You in advance.

[walky_talky20]

A bad CV joint will usually make a repetitive "clicking" noise that is loudest while turning. You can usually tell which side it is by how fast the clicking is. Faster clicking when turning right (given the same vehicle speed) would indicate a bad left CV joint, for example. But "clunking", for example when braking or going over bumps could indicate a failed ball joint in one of the front control arms. There are 8 control arm ball joints in the front end that can be checked with the wheels off the ground.

I suggest you make sure you know what is bad before you go installing your chinese parts.

If rotors and pads take you 1 hour per side, I would recommend you block out a Saturday to change an axle. If you get stuck, that leaves Sunday to find some help. If you have all the right tools and know the right way to do it, it shouldn't take more than 2 hours in a driveway type situation.

[10kredline]

I just replaced mine this saturday. Changed out the passenger side axle of my 99' A4 1.8TQM. It was a bitch because I had limited tools and time. It's really not hard when you know what you're doing, it's just more like time consuming. Got my part from ECStuning( EMPI Brand). Just make sure you have TOOLS..lol.

[walky_talky20]

^Yeah. Key word being "tools", lol.

[akinaboy]

yeah, it took me 2 hours to do the brake jobs from start to finish. It took me over 20 minutes removing those plastic lug nut covers because I couldn't find the plastic cap removal tool. lol

so, do you guys know which size of allen socket and 12pt star bit I need? Which ones did you use?
Thanks!

[10kredline]

These are the main tool bits you will need, the hex for the axle bolt and the 12 point for the 6 bolt on the transmission side of the axle. I used a 14mm hex bit for the axle bolt. It's also better if you just get the whole set, you can get it at your local autozone. Don't forget the breaker bar and extension bar for leverage.

[akinaboy]

These are the main tool bits you will need, the hex for the axle bolt and the 12 point for the 6 bolt on the transmission side of the axle. I used a 14mm hex bit for the axle bolt. It's also better if you just get the whole set, you can get it at your local autozone. Don't forget the breaker bar and extension bar for leverage.

Thanks! My collar allen bolt looked bigger than 14mm but I will find that out soon.
For the 12pt star bit, did you use 12mm?
Thank You

[walky_talky20]

The V6 will have the larger hubs in front, which use a 17mm axle bolt. B5 1.8T quattro's (except 2001 model year) will use the 14mm size.

[10kredline]

I used 8mm. But it might be different for you, just buy a set just in case.

[redline380]

i cant remeber if its 8 or 12 mm triple square. i do believe is 8mm

[10kredline]

^Cool name..lol. I used 8mm for the stock bolts and bought new ones from ECS that was the wrong size which was 12mm and shorter. But like I said just buy the set, better to have more sizes than just one.

[akinaboy]

Thank you, guys!
I feel prepared now. I will update this thread once I finish the job.
Hopefully, I don't run into any unexpected situations while working on it (last time I worked on B8's brake, I over-tightened a caliper bolt and broke it haha)

[redline380]

^Cool name..lol.

Ive been using it since i was like fifeen. I used to bmx race and he frame i used was off a redline 380.

[akinaboy]

I replaced the axle and it was a piece of cake, which took me less than 40 minutes.
BUT.... I made a trouble. a Big one...
Basically, I initially tried to remove the upper control arm to get more room to remove the axle.
So, I loosened the 16mm nut that goes onto the upper control arm bolt.
Since it was rock hard that did not want to move, I decided to find a different way to get it out and turned the steering wheel left/right to wiggle the axle out.
After replacing it with a new one, I put the 16mm nut back onto the upper control arm bolt and was about to wrap it up.
I tightened and tightened and then overtightened to break off the bolt. ouch!! It was sad.
Now, I have to go to the dealer to buy a new bolt and nut.
In order to replace the bolt, I have to remove the broken bolt out of the place first.
Is there an easier way to remove that bolt? I only have hand tools (no impact gun). I tried to turn and turn to loosen it but this thing is PITA to remove.
Please help if you can give me an advice.

Trust me. It was rock solid hard that I almost thought about just driving with the broken bolt because I couldn't imagine that bolt being loose while driving. lol

[akinaboy]

well, after posting my last reply, I guess I found a way to get it out.
For anyone who runs into the same problem, take a look at this.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b...ol-arm-DIY.htm

[redline380]

are you talking about the pinch bolt that pinches the control arms? those are notoriously difficult to get out. ive never had any trouble cause i use an air hammer, but ive replaced mine with stainless bolts while using antiseize.

[$teady$upreme]

No, he is talking about the actual upper control arms bolts that connect to the strut housing.

[akinaboy]

actually, I was talking about pinch bolt. :D
not sure how it was easy for you but it was real PITA for me.
May be I should go get an air hammer and see if it helps..

[$teady$upreme]

pinch bolt is 13mm iirc. But glad to hear is all good now~

[akinaboy]

Help me guys!
I spent over an hour trying to get the pinch bolt out with no luck.
I tried to hammer it down so many times but doesn't work. Any advice?

[akinaboy]

Since the bolt is almost impossible to come out, wouldn't it be safe enough to drive with it? It does not want to move a tiny bit at all. Now my arms are tired from hammering it.