Could someone recommend a good dual boost/AFR gauge?

[Gaki]

I have a podi steering column mount and would rather run a single gauge for boost/AFR and another for aquamist. I'd rather not clutter up the interior any more than that.
I know of the Podi/VEI dual gauge (http://podi.ca/P1Packages.aspx?CarID=8), was wondering if there were any others out there?
Found this one: http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ZR-2/ZR-2.shtml
-only thing annoying with this gauge is the redundant LEDs that sweep along the bezel of the gauge. I'd rather NOT have that as it is annoying.

I'm also assuming that I'm going to need to pick up two new o2 sensors right?

[Gujuhammer]

You should look at PLX, AEM, and Innovate Motorsports too. I'm still trying to figure out which one will be the best for my application.

Most of the kits come with a o2 sensor (you really only need one). You'll have to drill and weld an o2 bung in the DP (usually the PS) before the cats.

[AudiSportB5S4]

My buddy has the Zeitronix, I think that's a great looking gauge and a nice setup.. I'm used to the digital, I have the VEI high resolution boost gauge on my steering column, then an Innovative WB on my A pillar. I kind of like having the separate gauges but if I had to do it again I'd go with the Zeitronix. Very easy to plot the boost into ECUx which is very useful if you're stage 3 running beyond the MAP sensor.

[julex]

I have the podi dual gauge and I like it a lot. It actually matches the color of cluster letters and heir style. Here is a pic in my allroad:

[viceprp]

http://www.aemelectronics.com/gauges...ream-gauge-33/

This is what I run with my AEM EMS, I can setup around 512 parameters but I will select roughly 6 to scroll through.

[careercadaver]

Sorry to thread jack but what's the general impression of VEI gauges? They have a nice looking set-up for the dual purpose gauge as well.

[Gaki]

I like the VEI one a lot as well, but what sucks is all the extra stuff you need to buy.

You should look at PLX, AEM, and Innovate Motorsports too. I'm still trying to figure out which one will be the best for my application.

Most of the kits come with a o2 sensor (you really only need one). You'll have to drill and weld an o2 bung in the DP (usually the PS) before the cats.

You answered my other question, I was wondering how I could measure the AFR if there's only one o2 sensor but with two downpipes. By PS you mean passenger right?

[phila_dot]

Found this one: http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ZR-2/ZR-2.shtml
-only thing annoying with this gauge is the redundant LEDs that sweep along the bezel of the gauge. I'd rather NOT have that as it is annoying.

The LED's aren't necessarily redundant. They can be set to display whatever input you want. They don't bother me.

Most of the kits come with a o2 sensor (you really only need one). You'll have to drill and weld an o2 bung in the DP (usually the PS) before the cats.

I just coded out my rear O2's and used the PS rear bung.



I currently don't have the Zeitronix MAP and run a seperate boost gauge in the center vent.

I don't think there is a better option than the ZT2 for datalogging.

[julex]

you hook up the wideband to passenger downpipe since that's the bank running leaner than the other one due to how intake manifold is constructed. Passenger cylinders get "dibs" on air since their runners are situated closer to throttle than driver side counterparts. And you want to monitor your most lean part of system.

[julex]

The LED's aren't necessarily redundant. They can be set to display whatever input you want. They don't bother me.



I just coded out my rear O2's and used the PS rear bung.



I currently don't have the Zeitronix MAP and run a seperate boost gauge in the center vent.

I don't think there is a better option than the ZT2 for datalogging.

That's you idle? 15.2 ?

[Evilevo]

How are the LEDs around the edge redundant? My ZR-2 gauge shows AFR around the outside and boost/vacuum in the center. I can also change it so it reads AFR in the center if I want a more precise number. I also just bought their fuel pressure sensor so it will be able to read FP also.


When logging the Zeitronix, I get Boost, RPM, Lambda and AFR.

[Gaki]

you hook up the wideband to passenger downpipe since that's the bank running leaner than the other one due to how intake manifold is constructed. Passenger cylinders get "dibs" on air since their runners are situated closer to throttle than driver side counterparts. And you want to monitor your most lean part of system.

Thanks for the info, I'll run it on the passenger side on my RAI 3" DPs (I'll have to get a new bung welded in)

How are the LEDs around the edge redundant? My ZR-2 gauge shows AFR around the outside and boost/vacuum in the center. I can also change it so it reads AFR in the center if I want a more precise number. I also just bought their fuel pressure sensor so it will be able to read FP also.


When logging the Zeitronix, I get Boost, RPM, Lambda and AFR.

Perhaps I should've used a different word... I just don't like the constant sweeping back and forth.

The LED's aren't necessarily redundant. They can be set to display whatever input you want. They don't bother me.

can it be shut off?

[Evilevo]

Thanks for the info, I'll run it on the passenger side on my RAI 3" DPs (I'll have to get a new bung welded in)



Perhaps I should've used a different word... I just don't like the constant sweeping back and forth.




can it be shut off?

Why? The sweeping is easier to notice if something is wrong. If it doesn't go to the right when you are boosting then there is an issue. Much easier that trying to read a number.

[julex]

Good thinking on that fuel pressure. I need to get a sensor for that too.

[jibberjive]

I love my ZT-2. I've currently got it logging AFR, boost (for when I start boosting above the stock MAP limit), and EGT. I've got a fuel pressure solenoid as well, that will go in when I get the upgraded fuel system in and start running some other tricks (like E85). At those flow levels, you want to be careful about dropping pressure. I've also got a ZAVT-1 alarm box module, that has an LED and audible alarm that you can set for certain thresholds (like too high boost, or above a certain RPM and below a certain AFR). IMO, the Zeitronix is the best setup for our cars, and the add-on stuff (EGT, extra boost sensors, etc) is pretty painless.

[jibberjive]

And with Nyet's newest version of ECUxPlot, it's pretty easy to incorporate Zeitronix data and ECUx (or ME7Logger) logs.

http://nyet.org/cars/ECUxPlot/

[NOTORIOUS VR]

That's you idle? 15.2 ?

My car idles there too (around 1.01-1.02 lambda)

[Evilevo]

My car idles there too (around 1.01-1.02 lambda)

Really? My car always idles at 14.7

[Gaki]

Why? The sweeping is easier to notice if something is wrong. If it doesn't go to the right when you are boosting then there is an issue. Much easier that trying to read a number.

I totally get the reason behind the sweeping, just don't like the dancing lights... ADD kicks in the worst way

[Gujuhammer]

I just coded out my rear O2's and used the PS rear bung.

Would this work with a APR tune?

[Don Supreme]

My car idles there too (around 1.01-1.02 lambda)

14.7 dead on for me... I need some 15 + my life...

[AudiSportB5S4]

I idle at 14.7 also, but when I was doing the dyno day last year one of Tony's tuned 650 cars was idling at mid 15s.. The tech I know up there said why waste fuel at idle, it's common to have it up there while idling.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I idle at 14.7 also, but when I was doing the dyno day last year one of Tony's tuned 650 cars was idling at mid 15s.. The tech I know up there said why waste fuel at idle, it's common to have it up there while idling.

It's strange, julex has a thread going on about lambda 1 in the ECU... and while it technically should always be at lambda 1... mine generally (90% of the time) idles @ 1.01-1.02 instead of 1.0...