questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[Tahoe3.0]

I broke a clip taking off my fog grills, will regular a4 fog grills fit a usp bumper?

[Matt Devo]

I broke a clip taking off my fog grills, will regular a4 fog grills fit a usp bumper?

no, completely different size/shape

[G.AUDI]

i think these are the ones i have to order, 4B0601170A7ZJ.

i'm gonna order a set when i finish my move to TX and unpack all of my shit.

Yup. That's the one


Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[i8snitches]

Ok looking for a replacement breather filter for 2014 A6 3.0T.

Just need the part number, tried local AutoZone but wasn't much help.

[SJorge3442]

Ok looking for a replacement breather filter for 2014 A6 3.0T.

Just need the part number, tried local AutoZone but wasn't much help.

Not going to get much help here in the b6 platform forum where our 3.0's only come naturally aspirated.

Also, avoid Autozone for ANYTHING engine related with your Audi, unless you're into having a bad time and like buying parts twice.

[Jakal]

I recently discovered that my exhaust manifold/header had 3 gaskets between it and the engine. I have some gaskets from Audi that I bought off of ECS and there’s only two in the package. So that begs the question: how many gaskets do these cars come with?


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[Matt Devo]

I recently discovered that my exhaust manifold/header had 3 gaskets between it and the engine. I have some gaskets from Audi that I bought off of ECS and there’s only two in the package. So that begs the question: how many gaskets do these cars come with?

sounds like a multi-layer gasket that simply separated, as there's only a single gasket used.

[G.AUDI]

Bought these a few years ago but have since gone in another direction. I know performance wise they will be fine but was looking into selling them and I was coming at it from appearance wise.
What is that on the rotors and is there any way to clean them without marking or scratching the metal? These are the B5 S4 setup from Matt's rotors btw.

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[fR3ZNO]

Looks like some surface corrosion of whatever they were plated in. I would try using a scotch brite pad on them and see if it comes off.

[G.AUDI]

Looks like some surface corrosion of whatever they were plated in. I would try using a scotch brite pad on them and see if it comes off.

Thanks.... I wasn't sure exactly what kind of corrosion since it didn't really look like rust to me. Some parts had what looked like a chalky build up.

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[jonan]

Thanks.... I wasn't sure exactly what kind of corrosion since it didn't really look like rust to me. Some parts had what looked like a chalky build up.

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Scotch brite, some elbow grease, then a quick spay and wipe down with brake clean should work.

[Spike00513]

I recently saw an Audi apple connect kit on clearance sale I think,
and it looked like a re-packaged DICE connector.

Anyone know how to update these? Such as a good product to buy cheaply?
I'll google it.

Previous owner installed one in my car, but the cable only connects to iPhone 4S (old)
and not newer like iPhone 6S, which is a different plug style.
Also, the DICE plug in the car seems shoddy/unreliable for some reason, disconnecting itself. The locking tabs (if it even has any) don't seem to work either.

Bought these a few years ago but have since gone in another direction. I know performance wise they will be fine but was looking into selling them and I was coming at it from appearance wise.
What is that on the rotors and is there any way to clean them without marking or scratching the metal? These are the B5 S4 setup from Matt's rotors btw.

I wonder what size dimensions B5 S4 rotors are. I'll have to look it up.
Rotors probably have a min. and max. thickness spec, and supposedly this is just for liability reasons, to prevent the caliper piston from having enough room to pop out if the pads are worn too.
Such as if a car owner keeps replacing pads but never the rotor, which eventually loses material.
But probably being made of iron, maybe the rotor can still handle the use.
Because after all, it's it other parts that people get trouble with when tracking? Such as needing higher temp brake fluid, pads that don't fade, calipers that handle heat, adequate cooling, etc.
Unless the rotor cracks or warps, that last part supposedly being a myth and just what people wrongly call a noticeable DTV (disc thickness variation) from pad deposits.
But that part is a whole other subject (not to mention one I'm not familiar with), so my point isn't to talk about it.

IDK if any chemicals would help,
and I'm not sure if simply using it with a pad will eventually wipe it clean, not to mention those groove designs and what-not possibly abrading the pad like a cheese-grater to keep it fresh?
Or does pad material deposit a transfer layer onto the metal, effectively making it feel like pad-to-pad braking?
Either way, the pedal will still technically probably work.

Looks like some surface corrosion of whatever they were plated in. I would try using a scotch brite pad on them and see if it comes off.

Well, regarding surface corrosion, I hear that when rotors are stored in a warehouse before selling, they're left coated with a thin film of oil to protect them.
That then has to be wiped off prior to install with brake cleaner spray.

Scotch brite, some elbow grease, then a quick spay and wipe down with brake clean should work.

Hopefully

Thanks.... I wasn't sure exactly what kind of corrosion since it didn't really look like rust to me. Some parts had what looked like a chalky build up.

I can't really tell if it ate into the metal.

[hightime80]

How does one remove the metal rebar from the front bumper cover?

[eljay]

How can I test window functions with the door removed from the car?
I tried applying 12v to the pin 1 and ground to pin 11 of the T20 door connector, but the switches didn't do anything.
Is there something else that needs power or ground for the window to work?
I just want to test the window going up and down.

Thanks.

[Tahoe3.0]

I recently saw an Audi apple connect kit on clearance sale I think,
and it looked like a re-packaged DICE connector.

Anyone know how to update these? Such as a good product to buy cheaply?
I'll google it.

Previous owner installed one in my car, but the cable only connects to iPhone 4S (old)
and not newer like iPhone 6S, which is a different plug style.

this will fix it

[hightime80]

Anyone?

[hightime80]

Anyone?

Sorry was trying to quote my question 3 posts up. Does anyone know how to get the metal rebar out of the bumper cover? Preferably intact.

[jonan]

Yup. That's the one


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dope! thanks for confirming!

[jonan]

Thanks.

I'm hoping mine won't break, because I already managed to break it loose out of curiosity not long ago.
And IDK why it's leaking a bit like that.

Maybe the O-ring has worn out over these many years and miles.



I'm not sure if the PN of the O-ring, if it even exists to sell separately. Or the dimensions of it, to install a random replacement from a hardware store.

IDK if people recommend anything additional as well, for thread installation,
such as a coating of anti-sieze or however many wraps around of Teflon tape, to help seal and prevent future seizing, while still not making it too tight (would it get stuck?)



1.8T coolant hardpipe I think.
With either a plastic bleeder screw up top, or metal, depending on model year maybe.

But it's just a generic pic I grabbed from Google images, to illustrate what's going on with mine.
Although mine is much less worse. It's just a few pink drops. But enough to cause concern.

I figure preventative maintenance = a $6 part now ahead of time,
before it breaks leaving the car stranded and emergency helicoptering in the same exact parts from a dealership at $100/ea
during business hours, leaving the car parked overnight

seriously fuk this screw, i replaced my hardpipe less than a year ago and the screw broke this morning when i had to bleed the system...had to bleed from the heater core hose...

[Spike00513]

seriously fuk this screw, i replaced my hardpipe less than a year ago and the screw broke this morning when i had to bleed the system...had to bleed from the heater core hose...

Well then. Guess I don't know how to bleed coolant. Wasn't sure if a fancy $100 tool kit is needed.
I think for my 3.0L I just added coolant (cold engine) and let it idle, while watching the reservoir level drop so I could add more. I heard that was okay to do.
And then watched it in the continuing days after, if it continued to drop. Assuming coolant would go in, and air would automatically push itself out, up into the reservoir.

Apparently 'venting cap' (on the reservoir) just means a vent slowly releases pressure when you unscrew it, to avoid a hot blast of coolant like in old cars with a radiator cap.
I hear air tends to rise. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the coolant bleed screw being up high.

I thought people just pull the heater core hoses (behind firewall) backed off a bit to a little dot marking, while air comes out. And then slide the hose back on and install the clamp, when coolant finally spurts out.

Not too well-versed in the subject, honestly.

this will fix it

Thank you. Won't hurt to try for only $3. Hopefully the connection locks in solid and stays put. It'll add some nice length too; the current cable is a bit short.

The current cable (iPhone 4S DICE unit) doesn't seem to have charging functionality either. I'm gonna have to figure that one out. Only music playing ability.
Although I hear it's healthier for battery longevity to drain and recharge many times. Rather than keeping something constantly plugged in at full 100% charge.

Just checked out eBay to see if they're cheaper.
Looks like there's an option of cable adapter version, or square one.



IDK why there's an audio jack version as well.
Guess I'll gamble and hope whatever I get works.



Maybe the stubby square one would get blocked by the phone case.

[jonan]

yea, the coolant screw is so much easier than pulling the heater core hose behind the firewall...

my car originally came with the hardpipe with the metal screw, but the pipe actually developed cracks and still leaked even though i put a new metal screw in it...

when i ordered a replacement pipe, the new one came with the plastic screw, which after less than a year broke the first time i tried to open it to bleed coolant...stupid fucking cost savings measure IMO...

i had to rip the battery cover off and bleed from the heater core pipe...just leave the cap on and wait for that tiny hole to start pissing coolant...if you try to bleed without the coolant reservoir cap on, it will start vomiting up tons of coolant when the system builds pressure...

[hightime80]

No one knows how to take the rebar off the bumper cover?

[fR3ZNO]

No one knows how to take the rebar off the bumper cover?

There’s screws that hold it on.

[Gone in 7.6]

Does a 2003 have can-bus connection on the passenger side footwell? I checked and see where it is currently connected.. I have no other spot to connect to they all appear blank

[5ktq]

There's 3 CAN busses, did you have a specific one in mind?

All three are at the cluster, for what it's worth.

[Gone in 7.6]

There's 3 CAN busses, did you have a specific one in mind?

All three are at the cluster, for what it's worth.

Yes I am looking to setup the SAT radio.. I followed the directions for 2004 on but the passenger footwell has the one connection, all other spots are empty

[fR3ZNO]

Anyone have experience with OEM vs. aftermarket cam chains?

When doing my friend's timing belt on his new B6, I noticed the valve cover had JB weld on it and was leaking oil. I found that the cam chain wore grooves through the valve cover

The chain looks good as far as I can tell, but the tensioner obviously needs to be replaced. I stupidly put a spare valve cover on that I had laying around to stop the leak, and now the slap is very loud.

So I'm not sure if I should have him buy a Genuine Audi chain for $150 or an aftermarket for roughly $30; or just call it good and put a tensioner in.

[old guy]

I compared an aftermarket chain to my OEM one with over 200k miles and the difference in length, sag and link pin diameters was barely measurable. I reused the OEM one.

[fR3ZNO]

I compared an aftermarket chain to my OEM one with over 200k miles and the difference in length, sag and link pin diameters was barely measurable. I reused the OEM one.

Thanks for the input, old guy.

[Spike00513]

Wondering if I should try finding a Passat AWM cylinder head to prepare to swap in during an upcoming planned timing belt job, or if it's still too early for a cylinder head (~160k mi) and can wait.
Still needs a timing belt kit though, and other stuff.

In which case, was wondering if the donor car details matter, such as automatic vs. manual transmission Passat. (automatic probably more common)
Looks like it's supposed to be '01-'05 Passat, 1.8T

to swap AMB out (supposedly prone to cracking) for AWM (supposedly more reliable and fits)

Haven't found any locally yet

[Jakal]

Got my ko3 back from being rebuilt and I can’t get the coolant line mounting thread to line up. In this picture I have the banjo bolt in, just unable to get this other bolt in. Nothing should have been changed. Anyone have any insight? IMG_8030.JPG

[old guy]

Your turbo wasn't clocked correctly when it was put back together.

[IndoReef]

Yea looks as if the person who rebuilt it skipped a step, show them this picture and the actual turbo

[Gosser]

I did a valve cover gasket and forgot to put the plastic caps that cover the intake cam back on... is my bottom end going to fall out now?

[kjmiles]

Silly question. Just replaced the airflow duct positioning flap servo motor (lite blue V71 (G113) –8E1 820 511 E/F/M). When should the flap be down/up? Right now, when the heat is on mine is closed and when the AC is on it's open. Just want to make sure before I reinstall the glove box.

[Luxus Panzer]

I did a valve cover gasket and forgot to put the plastic caps that cover the intake cam back on... is my bottom end going to fall out now?

ooh, that sucks :(

[Jakal]

Your turbo wasn't clocked correctly when it was put back together.

Is this something I should be concerned about? I sent an inquiry with pictures to them.

[old guy]

Is this something I should be concerned about? I sent an inquiry with pictures to them.

You can fix it yourself. Loosen the bolts that are clamping the hot/cold side of the turbo to the center section of the turbo. Rotate the center section while keeping the hot/cold side in the same relationship to each other (like a Rubik's cube). Rotate it to where the holes align and tighten everything back up.

Done!

[Spike00513]

Wow. This looks complicated even with the engine out for accessibility.

When dealing with all this hosey shit, is there a particular order that new parts must be installed?
Such as starting closest to the engine.
Because obviously if you've laid down a web of hoses without clamps, you might not be able to reach deep into the first one you installed.
Which may even require a heat-gun to soften things if it's plastic.

Or is there a special tool?
Or do you just use screw-type aftermarket hose clamps tightened with a hex extension or flathead screwdriver?
Won't this reduce their lifespan by biting into the hose, or is it worth it this time?




I can't tell if OEM ear-type clamps (one-time-use or re-usable?) are worth it,
or to look into something flared out, maybe GEMI or NORMA
or something else



There's an octopus on the engine

[Chemmie]

^I use the closed-rack type worm drive clamps, sometimes called “Euro” clamps or Oetiker hose clamps, metric, 5 or 8 mm width depending on the hose. That’s what you’ve shown in your part photo. The open-rack clamps are rarely the correct width, and will cut into the hose. I doubt it affects hose life, but it looks amature. For every spot I can get the crimp tool into, I just replace clamps w/the single-ear OEM style crimp bands.