2.0 Vacuum Pump help

[boal05]

Hello all!
I have looked for a DIY and have had absolutely no luck finding anything regarding replacing the Vacuum pump yourself. If anyone has any thoughts or ideas as to where this is, please let me know (and I apologize in advance if it was out there somewhere).

So I have this small oil leak that is coming from the Vacuum Pump, which I am told needs replaced from the dealership (out of warranty though) so this would cost me 500 bucks that I don't have right now. I've found the part online for roughly $240, but I am curious if this can be done yourself since it is about 2.5 inches from the firewall. The part #06D-145-100-F, which is an updated version now too, so I'm curious if this will come out in the near future as yet
another letter from Audi USA doing an extension to our warranties and refund anyone who has done it already (fingers crossed).

Let me know, thanks in advance for any/all your help!

[baldy]

I had mine replaced under warranty, after the seals were replaced twice and it still kept leaking... Be careful, since the oil drips right on your heatshield on the firewall... Over time, oil gets soaked up by the fire retardant mat behing the foil on the heatshield.. And in my case, the car had a "thermal incident"... Fire extinguisher saved the car, but all in all there was almost 10K damage when the insurance claim was done..

[boal05]

Baldy, thanks for the response, I appreciate any/all advice or help on this. I found some diagrams online that show the entire part and how it connects, so I think that will help some on the install. I will try to post results, I am just trying a DIY on my own it seems since I can't find anything. I'll save the 250 on labor and use it for something else (tinting maybe??)

[shiro1745]

I wonder if you got anywhere with this?

[boal05]

Thanks for checking in, I actually just got the new vacuum pump last week, installed it over the weekend without any problems. I cannot believe the dealer wanted $510 to install this, 3 T30 torx screws, and it was done. So far it seems to have fixed the oil leak, now I just need to clean the back of the engine bay to clean up the mess the leak made.

[shiro1745]

^ anything to have in mind when doing this? I know it's really tight in there, any special tools you needed?

How long did it take?

[airbornerifleman]

Bump for a DIY if possible. The hose that attaches to the pump has some play and when it's cold out the thing rattles until things warm up the the hose or something expands. Phil has made a DIY to JB weld the hose to the pump, but I would rather replace the pump to alleviate any future issues.

[mcpcartier]

Bump for a DIY if possible. The hose that attaches to the pump has some play and when it's cold out the thing rattles until things warm up the the hose or something expands. Phil has made a DIY to JB weld the hose to the pump, but I would rather replace the pump to alleviate any future issues.

My turn for this. Have had the annoying drip for a few months now. Had the car in to the dealer for the intake flapper motor and fuel pressure sensor campaigns today and they noted the vacuum pump is leaking. So I did what everyone here does....used the search and ended up on this thread. I took a look thru the DIY section for the JB weld DIY you noted that Phil made. First thing I noticed is Phil has done a crap load of DIY's...wow. Second things is none of the ones I found seemed to be related to the vacuum pump.

Anyone know which thread airborner.... is refering to?

[boal05]

^ anything to have in mind when doing this? I know it's really tight in there, any special tools you needed?

How long did it take?

Just make sure you don't drop your wrench or the bolts, if so, good luck. It was actually rather easy to do, just move the hoses around the area to give you some room to work. I bought some torx sockets off ebay, 1/4 craftsman ratchet was just the right size, and a handheld mirror to give you a better view to find the bolts. The new vacuum pump should shimmy right into place with a few back and forth movements, you'll notice the grooves need to line up, until you get them lined up it won't sit right. I should have made DIY with pictures to post, but I didn't think about it until I was already done. Sorry.... let me know if you have questions, good luck... maybe took me an hour, minus the 10 minutes it took to find the wrench after it slipped out of my hand!

[mcpcartier]

Just make sure you don't drop your wrench or the bolts, if so, good luck. It was actually rather easy to do, just move the hoses around the area to give you some room to work. I bought some torx sockets off ebay, 1/4 craftsman ratchet was just the right size, and a handheld mirror to give you a better view to find the bolts. The new vacuum pump should shimmy right into place with a few back and forth movements, you'll notice the grooves need to line up, until you get them lined up it won't sit right. I should have made DIY with pictures to post, but I didn't think about it until I was already done. Sorry.... let me know if you have questions, good luck... maybe took me an hour, minus the 10 minutes it took to find the wrench after it slipped out of my hand!

Where did you buy your vacuum pump from? Did a quick search on ECS without any luck. Will head to the other typical sites when I get a few minutes but figured I'd ask someone who obviously went through this already.

[boal05]

Where did you buy your vacuum pump from? Did a quick search on ECS without any luck. Will head to the other typical sites when I get a few minutes but figured I'd ask someone who obviously went through this already.

I actually had to go through the dealer, I found some by google'ing the part number, but nothing came up that seemed legit in my eyes. I have a buddy that works for a parts store locally who ordered it through the dealer and got me their pricing on it. I would start at the dealership's parts department and see what they can do for you.

[mcpcartier]

Looks like Genuine Audi parts is offering it at a reasonable price...


http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/20...=1&searchtext=

Looks like I need to plan out a full weekend to knock out the HFC, Carbon Cleaning, Vacuum Pump, and Coolant Flange. More and more regular maintenance as she gets up there in years/miles. The 034 control arms keep getting pushed out...initially planned on doing them plus the snub and street density mounts but priorities continue to change. Hmmmm....tranny and diff fluids need some attention as well. Dang, certainly adding up.

[mcpcartier]

Took out the leaker and put in a fresh pump. Picked up one of those right angle drivers for $3 at harbor freight and it did the job. Still.....took me 20-30 minutes to get the driver onto the bottom screw during installation. Of course....only took a couple of minutes to get it out.

Anyway....here are some pics.

The bad pump that was pissing oil all over my tranny.


By mcpcartier at 2012-09-12

The right angle driver I picked up...I know this shot is not when I used it on the vacuum pump, but turns out it came in handy while removing the intake manifold.


By mcpcartier at 2012-09-12

General shot of pump location....


By mcpcartier at 2012-09-12

Here is a pic of that annoying screw from above.


By mcpcartier at 2012-09-12

These next two are from the side....


By mcpcartier at 2012-09-12


By mcpcartier at 2012-09-12

[mcpcartier]

I had mine replaced under warranty,

I wish...when I had the last two RVU's done the stealership quoted me $1083 to change the coolant flange and vacuum pump. I picked them up from genuine audi parts for under $250 and dug in. Figured I was going to do the carbon cleaning anyways so it was logical to knock these out at the same time.

[houbaviy]

Just as some of you did, I replaced the seal and the damn pump still leaked. The old O-ring was intact, albeit a bit flattened. I had wrapped foil around the back plate and did not see any oil on the foil after a week or so, whereas there was oil caught by foil wrapped around the annoying third screw shown in the pictures in this thread. So I decided that the problem was not caused by the internal gasket that seals the back plate. The exact location of the leak is very hard to pinpoint, at least in part, because of the cables attached to the bracket held by that annoying third screw. So the oil travels along the cables and drips onto the transmission (just like in the Bond movie where they tried to drip poison along a thread and into his mouth). Where that oil comes from and how it reaches the cables is another matter.

To wrap things up: If any of you have a leaking vacuum pump, change the entire pump.

[mcpcartier]

Just as some of you did, I replaced the seal and the damn pump still leaked. The old O-ring was intact, albeit a bit flattened. I had wrapped foil around the back plate and did not see any oil on the foil after a week or so, whereas there was oil caught by foil wrapped around the annoying third screw shown in the pictures in this thread. So I decided that the problem was not caused by the internal gasket that seals the back plate. The exact location of the leak is very hard to pinpoint, at least in part, because of the cables attached to the bracket held by that annoying third screw. So the oil travels along the cables and drips onto the transmission (just like in the Bond movie where they tried to drip poison along a thread and into his mouth). Where that oil comes from and how it reaches the cables is another matter.

To wrap things up: If any of you have a leaking vacuum pump, change the entire pump.

Post a pic of the new pump design if you get a chance. I meant to post a pic of the new o-ring location but don't have any pics...thought I had snapped a few of the pumps side by side...who knows.

Anyway....I'm not pulling it back out just to take a pic, hoping someone else will.

[houbaviy]

Sorry, but how does one post pictures here? I tried to paste the file locations but that doesn't work.

[houbaviy]

[IMG]file:///Users/houbaviy/Pictures/IMG_0393.jpg[/IMG]

[shiro1745]

you need to upload the image somewhere before, photobucket. com for ex.
then get the link
and do the same thing you did above.

[houbaviy]

OK, here are the pictures as requested. Left = old and Right = new pump. The old pump has a brand new O-ring.

A hint for those of you who are fans of ear (Oetiker) clamps: Put the new clamp on the vacuum hose BEFORE you screw the pump back onto the engine or else you won't have space for the crimping pliers.

[mcpcartier]

Thanks for posting the pics...much appreciated.

I typically go through a quart of oil every 5k. I think most of that dribbled by the stupid o-ring. Hoping I can go the full 5K (to the next oil change) without seeing the low oil light. Only time will tell.

[houbaviy]

Thanks for posting the pics...much appreciated.

I typically go through a quart of oil every 5k. I think most of that dribbled by the stupid o-ring. Hoping I can go the full 5K (to the next oil change) without seeing the low oil light. Only time will tell.

Very similar experience here. Mine had virtually zero oil consumption between the oil changes until a couple of months ago when I got a low oil light twice within less than 8K. I suppose, it's better to have a leaking O-ring than a worn piston (I'm at 101K now). It is also nice to be able to rule out a transmission leak, as I recently had the clutch replaced and was about to blame my mechanic for the oil on the transmission. Thanks again for the info, it made the job much easier.

[Coxy]

Hey.. Just a quick addition after swapping my leaky/gushing vacuum pump to the new revision H. I found the 3 Torq screws to be a T27 size. I was struggling to deliver the needed leverage with the small 1/4" ratchet and bought a 1/4" long handled spanner to crack the screws. Holding the T27 bit in the screw with one hand and fitting the spanner with the other. Slow and cumbersome but was the only way I could loosen the screws in the painfully tight spot! Hope this info is of assistance.
Coxy

[schmiesus]

Hey.. Just a quick addition after swapping my leaky/gushing vacuum pump to the new revision H. I found the 3 Torq screws to be a T27 size. I was struggling to deliver the needed leverage with the small 1/4" ratchet and bought a 1/4" long handled spanner to crack the screws. Holding the T27 bit in the screw with one hand and fitting the spanner with the other. Slow and cumbersome but was the only way I could loosen the screws in the painfully tight spot! Hope this info is of assistance.
Coxy

It's actually a t30

[Coxy]

Perhaps on yours.. But the T30 and T25s I tried did not work, and in order to get mine out I had to purchase a T27. Was the only size that worked for me. Screws may have been changed when a previous revision was fitted. (One of the many revisions that fixed nothing. haha) I guess the main thing I have realized after doing many mods and fixes is it pays to have all Torq sizes up to 40 and fittings, ratches etc to be able to get into all of the pain in the arse tight spots that theses Torq screws are found!

[schmiesus]

agreed. My tool box is useless for domestics

[schmiesus]

I found the partially removing the wiring harness from the plate attached to the bottom of the pump and pulling it off to the side made the job a lot easier.

[airbornerifleman]

Quick question.

When replacing the pump, how does one remove and re-install the hose attached to the pump?

[schmiesus]

You take off the one time use clamp. Slide off the pipe.
Slide a regular hose clamp on. Attach to vacuum pump. Tighten the clamp. Marvel at your achievement.

[mcpcartier]

Quick question.

When replacing the pump, how does one remove and re-install the hose attached to the pump?

it must have been easy....i painfully remember wasting the better part of a morning doing this and have no recollection of disconnecting/connecting the hose...so that part of the fun was painless. x2 of schmiesus comment....

[airbornerifleman]

Thanks gents!

[ericpaulyoung]

Excellent pictures and descriptions in this thread!!
Eric

[denali206]

While removing the vacuum hose attached to the pump I accidentally broke the nipple on the bottom of the black plastic diverter that goes through the firewall to the master cylinder. The nipple on the bottom is connected to a vacuum hose that travels to who knows where. Anyhow, does anyone know the implications of plugging that tiny hole and if it's necessary to have working, what is the part number and where can I find a replacement?

[denali206]

Well if anyone happens do the same boneheaded thing I did, the part number is 8E0611931FQ and the lowest price I've been able to find is $115.00 from GAP.

That was a costly mistake!

[houbaviy]

I put a new single use ear clamp on that hose. You can get them from your dealership or you can buy a kit online with different sizes. One also needs crimping pliers - very similar to nipping/cutting pliers except jaws are blunt. (I wonder if anyone has used nipping pliers to crimp such clamps.) Since most clamps on the Audis are of this type it might be worth investing in a kit/ a set of pliers. Do a search on Oetiker, the company that makes them for online vendors.

[hoonee46]

Hey guys, I removed the vacuum pump during a coolant flange job, and while trying to get the pump back in, I couldn't get it to go all the way in.
I am able to get it in right up until the rubber o-ring is almost in, but no further than that.
The key? or the tab sticking out of the pump seems to be lined up, as it won't even go in this far if it is not lined up.
So I tried going back and forth in all directions - even tried to use a crowbar against the firewall to get some leverage, but no luck.
I actually tried to thread it into place little by little, but ended up breaking the mounting tab on the pump - so buying a new one.

Anyone else ever run into this issue?
A friend is suggesting that turning the key 180deg may be a solution - gonna try it out with the broken pump in a few to see if it works...
Any and all help would be very much appreciated... especially after spending about 12 hours (2 days) on the coolant flange job....

[schmiesus]

It goes onto the end of the cam shaft. Get a mirror and see which way it is sitting. That's what I did.

[hoonee46]

Got it. Guess just a lil more patience and finesse is what it took.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk 2

[2kwik4u]

Can anyone confirm or deny that a faulty vacuum pump will result in a loss of power brakes at low speed? Also, is this actually a $277 part, or can it be found somewhere else for less money?

I'm currently having an intermittent loss of brake assist when parking the car in a parking lot. It seems to work just fine the rest of the time, but when idling, and backing into a parking spot it's a bit unnerving to have the brake pedal suddenly stiffen up and require significant more effort to get the car to stop. Especially unnerving when the wife is driving and starts screaming about it because she thinks she's going to hit something.

[schmiesus]

It would be a logical explanation for your issue yes. Is it 100% the only problem you have going on I really couldn't say without test driving the car.