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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings noskill's Avatar
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    2007 Audi RS4, "Spaceframe" 99 Audi A8, Wrangler JL on 37s
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    Nashua, NH

    Intermittent Taillight Issue

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    How many of you have been plagued by this?


    It starts out slowly... You'll get the warning that one of the rear lights is out. You get out to check... sure enough, there's a light out. The next time you start the car, however, it will magically be working again. You think to yourself, "It must have just been a fluke". Until it happens again... and again, and again. Eventually happening immediately when you start the car. It seems like some module in the car will cut power to whatever rear lights are indicating a problem, and will only reset again when shutting off the car and starting it again.

    It usually happens in groups, for me it was the rear right fog, rear right reverse light, and one or two of the three bulbs that make up the taillight. The separate beeping and warning for each individual light will eventually drive you crazy.

    I have read countless posts on this topic, all of them eventually resolved by replaced the entire taillight assembly. I absolutely refused to do this and I've tried just about everything to resolve it at this point. I finally was able to get a solution that works, and I wouldn't even dream of posting this here if it hadn't fixed the issue for at least 2 months (which it has). Everything I tried prior to this would only last two weeks at the most.

    One thing I noticed every time I took the taillight out was some charring / burning around the ground wire in the connector for the taillight. Cleaning this connector up with a Dremel would fix the issue for a week or two, but it would always come back.


    Now I realize that this may indicate a bigger problem, such as some power terminal inside the taillight shorting to ground, but I've been through this taillight inside and out. The ground is basically just a huge rail inside the light that distributes ground to all the bulbs. What I don't understand is why the problematic lights are always the same 3 when they all share a common ground. One thing I did notice is that the three lights with the problem are the three closest to where the ground rail enters the taillight - though this may just be a coincidence.

    In any case, I finally got this permanently fixed by basically bypassing the ground inside the connector (the brown wire), with my own.

    I started by drilling a hole in the back of the tail light assembly, drilling a hole in the ground rail, and soldering a wire to it that exits the taillight and terminates with an insulated male blade connector


    I then stripped back some of the insulation on the portion of the ground wire before the connector in the car, soldered a piece of wire there and terminated it with a female insulated blade connector (I covered the solder point with electrical tape after taking the picture)


    After putting everything back together and connecting my 2 blade connectors, every light in the taillight works like champ and I haven't had a single problem for months.


    Total cost of the fix: $2.35 (I already had everything I needed except the blade connectors and extra wire). This may not fix the issue for everyone as some of the posts I read had an issue specifically with the LED strip at the top of the taillight, but with similar symptoms. Hopefully this will help anyone who is having the same issue I was though.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings FOUR's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2010
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    Long Island

    very nice write up.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin1's Avatar
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    Oct 19 2008
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    Long Island

    Considering the value of your time it would have been cheaper to have replaced the assembly in the beginning. However, congratulations on finding what appears to have fixed your problem.

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings noskill's Avatar
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    2007 Audi RS4, "Spaceframe" 99 Audi A8, Wrangler JL on 37s
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    Nashua, NH

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin1 View Post
    Considering the value of your time it would have been cheaper to have replaced the assembly in the beginning. However, congratulations on finding what appears to have fixed your problem.
    I agree, I spent way too much time on this in the end. At least if the other one starts having the same issue, I'll be able to fix it quickly

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings jdaudi's Avatar
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    Oct 26 2010
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    I have the same issue.. And Kevin1, it would not be cheaper to replace. Audi wants like $300 for replacement assembly. The LEDs are built in. But noskill, I am wary of actually ripping into the pigtail.. How is everything working out for you?

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
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    USAF near Aachen Germany

    I just removed my tails. '05 3.2Q US spec. Right side has intermittent LEDs (about 7) but the left side hasn't been an issue. I bought a set of these full LED tails:
    http://www.sw-tuning.de/Front-Rueckl...6f7b04a144eb01

    I haven't taken pics yet, car's dirty. You have to have a VAGCOM to recode or they absolutely won't work. I'll start a thread with pics and the correct coding soon as I get some pics. BTW, I got 'em about 50 euro cheaper on ebay.de.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdaudi View Post
    I have the same issue.. And Kevin1, it would not be cheaper to replace. Audi wants like $300 for replacement assembly. The LEDs are built in. But noskill, I am wary of actually ripping into the pigtail.. How is everything working out for you?
    Dealer charged me $140.
    19 years and 320,000 miles behind the wheel of an Audi

    2022 A6 55 3.0 Prestige with Luxury Package and Black Optic Sport Package (all options). Daytona Gray Pearl Effect. Sarder Brown Interior. (July 2022 - presesent)

    RIP Audis
    2015 A6 TDI Prestige All Options except B&O - (August 2014 - July 2022) (146,179 miles)

    2005 A6 4.2 Prestige All Options - (February 2005 - August 2014) (141,179 miles)

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings tenspeed's Avatar
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    Honeoye NY

    The ground connection is the weak link in many tail lights. Power comes in through the other wires and exits through the ground. The connector gets hot, expands and it is loose when it cools. Repeat the cycle several thousand times and you see charring.

    Preventive maintenance is to plug and unplug several times and giving everything a coat of di-electric grease to prevent corrosion. A alternate solution to your grounding method is to run the new ground wire to a screw into the metal so there are two paths back to the battery.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings noskill's Avatar
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    2007 Audi RS4, "Spaceframe" 99 Audi A8, Wrangler JL on 37s
    Location
    Nashua, NH

    Quote Originally Posted by jdaudi View Post
    I have the same issue.. And Kevin1, it would not be cheaper to replace. Audi wants like $300 for replacement assembly. The LEDs are built in. But noskill, I am wary of actually ripping into the pigtail.. How is everything working out for you?
    Several months now with not a single issue. I do agree with tenspeed. There are probably better, less drastic ways to fix/prevent this now that I know what the issue is (Side note: I wish I had found a post exactly like tenspeed's a few months ago as it probably would have saved me a ton of time and pointed me in the right direction - what he describes is exactly what was happening on mine).

    In my case the constant beeping from the dash as it detected each light out individually was driving me absolutely insane. I went crazy with my fix trying to ensure that I would never have to take it apart again - so far, so good.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings noskill's Avatar
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    My Garage
    2007 Audi RS4, "Spaceframe" 99 Audi A8, Wrangler JL on 37s
    Location
    Nashua, NH

    Quote Originally Posted by nedrager View Post
    I just removed my tails. '05 3.2Q US spec. Right side has intermittent LEDs (about 7) but the left side hasn't been an issue. I bought a set of these full LED tails:
    http://www.sw-tuning.de/Front-Rueckl...6f7b04a144eb01

    I haven't taken pics yet, car's dirty. You have to have a VAGCOM to recode or they absolutely won't work. I'll start a thread with pics and the correct coding soon as I get some pics. BTW, I got 'em about 50 euro cheaper on ebay.de.
    Very interested to see what those taillights look like once they're in and recoded. I never really liked how only a portion of the stock taillight is LED, looks strange to me for some reason.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings tenspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noskill View Post
    I do agree with tenspeed. There are probably better, less drastic ways to fix/prevent this now that I know what the issue is (Side note: I wish I had found a post exactly like tenspeed's a few months ago as it probably would have saved me a ton of time and pointed me in the right direction - what he describes is exactly what was happening on mine).
    I don't like messing with stock wiring. Adding a second ground wire is relatively easy and it eliminates a grounding issue when diagnosing a problem. I usually like to run the wire with the harness into the car body to keep the terminations out of the elements.

    I was an industrial electrician and have been working on my own cars for over forty years.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    i got those a while ago and i didnt recode them and thought they dont work, so i ended up getting brand new OEMS, too. now the ones u have are boxed and never used :(... pls send the coding if you have it .....

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
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    USAF near Aachen Germany

    Quote Originally Posted by transp0rter View Post
    i got those a while ago and i didnt recode them and thought they dont work, so i ended up getting brand new OEMS, too. now the ones u have are boxed and never used :(... pls send the coding if you have it .....
    You have to change Controller 9 to ROW (1 instead of 3 on the last digit) Then go into the long coding and subtract "LED Highline" and "SAE lighting" from whatever your coding is.

  14. #14
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Harrison Twp, MI

    Hi there,

    I am experiencing the same issue. After driving for 30 minutes the warning light comes on. The car will work fine after it sits. Then on again.

    I replaced all the bulbs. Still happens.

    Today I applied dielectric grease per the recommendation. But I did not see charing at the connector.

    If that fails, rather than splicing into the ground, I will run a separate ground. There are body bolts on the inside of the light cavity.

    If that fails, then what is next?

    New light fixture?

    If so do I just order this: http://www.audiwholesaleparts.com/pa...mponent=Holder

    Or do I need to order the whole deal: http://www.audiwholesaleparts.com/pa...%20lamp%20assy

    Thanks!

    Jeff
    Last edited by jeffgrice; 07-17-2012 at 03:47 AM.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    this is my problem, i'm doing this tomorrow!!

  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffgrice View Post
    Hi there,

    I am experiencing the same issue. After driving for 30 minutes the warning light comes on. The car will work fine after it sits. Then on again.

    I replaced all the bulbs. Still happens.

    Today I applied dielectric grease per the recommendation. But I did not see charing at the connector.

    If that fails, rather than splicing into the ground, I will run a separate ground. There are body bolts on the inside of the light cavity.

    If that fails, then what is next?

    New light fixture?

    If so do I just order this: http://www.audiwholesaleparts.com/pa...mponent=Holder

    Or do I need to order the whole deal: http://www.audiwholesaleparts.com/pa...%20lamp%20assy

    Thanks!

    Jeff
    In addition to the above steps I did run the ground wire. There is a body bolt inside the light cavity. That didn't work. Just have not order the replacement yet.

    BTW, to avoid damaging the lense when removing, use a 2 inch putty knife. it slide nicely into the end to help ease the lense out. Suggest to get a little gap, then apply tape along the edge and stuff in with the knife then re-insert the knife to help ease the light out.

    Jeff

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings
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    spent the morning doing this mod with the ground cable. I sanded down all the metal in the bulb holder with a dremel also. no bulb errors so far. this is great. I'm postponing my led upgrade till I have some cash!

  18. #18
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazery View Post
    spent the morning doing this mod with the ground cable. I sanded down all the metal in the bulb holder with a dremel also. no bulb errors so far. this is great. I'm postponing my led upgrade till I have some cash!
    That is great! Was your issue with the brake and turn signal (which is the leds) or the other lights? Mine is with the LEDs of which the ground technique was not the solution. Mine go out after being exposed to heat. If it is in the 60s I can drive all day...once the outside temp gets to 70s or the car is in the sun they go out after 15-20 minutes.

    Jeff

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    mine was the reversing bulb and the indicator, and occasionally the middle row of driving lights. seems to have completely gone now tho. I'm definitely gonna upgrade once cash flow has improved to the full led ones. It was pretty bad in there!

  20. #20
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 16 2012
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    2006 Audi A6 4.2L Quattro Sline
    Location
    Los Angeles, Ca

    Quote Originally Posted by noskill View Post
    How many of you have been plagued by this?

    It starts out slowly... You'll get the warning that one of the rear lights is out. You get out to check... sure enough, there's a light out. The next time you start the car, however, it will magically be working again. You think to yourself, "It must have just been a fluke". Until it happens again... and again, and again. Eventually happening immediately when you start the car. It seems like some module in the car will cut power to whatever rear lights are indicating a problem, and will only reset again when shutting off the car and starting it again.

    It usually happens in groups, for me it was the rear right fog, rear right reverse light, and one or two of the three bulbs that make up the taillight. The separate beeping and warning for each individual light will eventually drive you crazy.

    I have read countless posts on this topic, all of them eventually resolved by replaced the entire taillight assembly. I absolutely refused to do this and I've tried just about everything to resolve it at this point. I finally was able to get a solution that works, and I wouldn't even dream of posting this here if it hadn't fixed the issue for at least 2 months (which it has). Everything I tried prior to this would only last two weeks at the most.

    One thing I noticed every time I took the taillight out was some charring / burning around the ground wire in the connector for the taillight. Cleaning this connector up with a Dremel would fix the issue for a week or two, but it would always come back.

    Now I realize that this may indicate a bigger problem, such as some power terminal inside the taillight shorting to ground, but I've been through this taillight inside and out. The ground is basically just a huge rail inside the light that distributes ground to all the bulbs. What I don't understand is why the problematic lights are always the same 3 when they all share a common ground. One thing I did notice is that the three lights with the problem are the three closest to where the ground rail enters the taillight - though this may just be a coincidence.

    In any case, I finally got this permanently fixed by basically bypassing the ground inside the connector (the brown wire), with my own.

    I started by drilling a hole in the back of the tail light assembly, drilling a hole in the ground rail, and soldering a wire to it that exits the taillight and terminates with an insulated male blade connector

    I then stripped back some of the insulation on the portion of the ground wire before the connector in the car, soldered a piece of wire there and terminated it with a female insulated blade connector (I covered the solder point with electrical tape after taking the picture)

    After putting everything back together and connecting my 2 blade connectors, every light in the taillight works like champ and I haven't had a single problem for months.

    Total cost of the fix: $2.35 (I already had everything I needed except the blade connectors and extra wire). This may not fix the issue for everyone as some of the posts I read had an issue specifically with the LED strip at the top of the taillight, but with similar symptoms. Hopefully this will help anyone who is having the same issue I was though.

    After having weird weather for the pasted few weeks. And the warning light coming on whenever it chosed was driving my crazy. Man this really did fix my issue.

    And to add on to the posting the green w/black strip is the ground for the led which is in the same row as the brown(ground) wire. Just follow the rails from the connector because there are 2 different rails.

  21. #21
    Registered Member One Ring
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    arlington, tx

    help...

    Quote Originally Posted by tenspeed View Post
    I don't like messing with stock wiring. Adding a second ground wire is relatively easy and it eliminates a grounding issue when diagnosing a problem. I usually like to run the wire with the harness into the car body to keep the terminations out of the elements.

    I was an industrial electrician and have been working on my own cars for over forty years.
    I am having the same issue noted here. Can you please explain your recommended fix to me in laymans terms? I would really appreciate it.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    2006 Audi A6 4.2L Quattro Sline
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    Los Angeles, Ca

    Just follow the instructions that noskill provided. On image 4 instead of splicing the wire there(brown), follow the the harness to the black rubber gaskets and pull it off. Then splice the wire(brown) behind that gasket and make the connection there. Away from the elements. Run the wire there harness and make sure you tape up between the harness and gasket meet. Then make sure you place the gasket correctly on and your set.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dutch_A6's Avatar
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    GMC Terrain
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    Belleville, IL

    Quote Originally Posted by nedrager View Post
    I just removed my tails. '05 3.2Q US spec. Right side has intermittent LEDs (about 7) but the left side hasn't been an issue. I bought a set of these full LED tails:
    http://www.sw-tuning.de/Front-Rueckl...6f7b04a144eb01

    I haven't taken pics yet, car's dirty. You have to have a VAGCOM to recode or they absolutely won't work. I'll start a thread with pics and the correct coding soon as I get some pics. BTW, I got 'em about 50 euro cheaper on ebay.de.
    Unfortunately I don't read German though I really do like these lights, does anyone know if there would be any modification needed to make these work on a US spec 2007 A6 other than needing the VAGCOM to recode the lights?

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dutch_A6's Avatar
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    Aug 19 2012
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    GMC Terrain
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    Belleville, IL

    In looking for upgraded tail lights I stumbled on headlights as well, any quick opinions on whether these would work without any problems with fitment in switching out the units or if VAGCOM would need to recode?

    http://www.carpart4u.com/product/568...our-Cars-.html

    http://www.carpart4u.com/product/570...our-Cars-.html

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    '07 Mustang GT Tungsten Grey/Black
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch_A6 View Post
    Unfortunately I don't read German though I really do like these lights, does anyone know if there would be any modification needed to make these work on a US spec 2007 A6 other than needing the VAGCOM to recode the lights?
    use google translate to convert the website. No reading German necessary.
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
    I: Soul Black, CF Trim, LEDs, Paddles, C7 Shifter, Escort 9500i, Blackvue Dashcam
    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    Not a fan of these lights. WE have had discussions why they say "Non-Quattro" and what the difference would be but no-one was able to figure that out.
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
    I: Soul Black, CF Trim, LEDs, Paddles, C7 Shifter, Escort 9500i, Blackvue Dashcam
    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dutch_A6's Avatar
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    GMC Terrain
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    Belleville, IL

    Thanks for the reply sin, just looking about as I have a lot on my plate as far as projects go and unfortunately the car is a little on the low end of priorities as far as customization goes but I can't help but plan ahead and look around

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dutch_A6's Avatar
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    So I finally had the problem this thread originated on and contacted my dealer what kind of fix they would recommend or if they would insist on replacing the whole unit. And turns out they will just replace the module where the wires are, a more permanent fix and total cost is $90. I know it's not as cheap as the fix posted originally but I don't have the confidence or friends to do it myself so I think this is a good compromise and a whole lot cheaper than replacing the whole unit. Just wanted to throw in my experience in this fix for future reference.
    Black 2012 A7 Prestige

    Zito ZF01 wheels
    EPL stage 2 tune
    Tinted marker lights
    Roc Euro intake
    AWE touring exhaust
    APR CPS

  29. #29
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch_A6 View Post
    So I finally had the problem this thread originated on and contacted my dealer what kind of fix they would recommend or if they would insist on replacing the whole unit. And turns out they will just replace the module where the wires are, a more permanent fix and total cost is $90. I know it's not as cheap as the fix posted originally but I don't have the confidence or friends to do it myself so I think this is a good compromise and a whole lot cheaper than replacing the whole unit. Just wanted to throw in my experience in this fix for future reference.
    Kool Kool, you'll be back.

  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Jan 10 2013
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    I just had this problem. At first it started with a couple lights going out, so I bought new bulbs..... only to open up the housing and realize that the bulbs were still good. I cleaned off some of the corrosion around the plug and it temporarily fixed the issue.

    Later on in the day the car started beeping at me with a serious of error messages about the rear lights. Now the entire left side is out.. Running, Rear, Blinker, Back-up, Brake. Completely out.

    This is so frustrating as it is my second A6 now that has had this problem. I can't believe Audi is too fukkin cheap to do a recall on this, obviously it's needed judging by the amount of people having this exact same issue

  31. #31
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nedrager View Post
    I just removed my tails. '05 3.2Q US spec. Right side has intermittent LEDs (about 7) but the left side hasn't been an issue. I bought a set of these full LED tails:
    http://www.sw-tuning.de/Front-Rueckl...6f7b04a144eb01

    I haven't taken pics yet, car's dirty. You have to have a VAGCOM to recode or they absolutely won't work. I'll start a thread with pics and the correct coding soon as I get some pics. BTW, I got 'em about 50 euro cheaper on ebay.de.


    Anyone know where to get these LED tail lights in the US? Preferrably without needing re-coding, or setting off errors... or is that unavoidable ha?

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dutch_A6's Avatar
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    Belleville, IL

    Not sure what eazy means with i'll be back but anyway, i'd love to replace the stock taillights with LED ones but I don't know if it can be done without re-coding.
    Black 2012 A7 Prestige

    Zito ZF01 wheels
    EPL stage 2 tune
    Tinted marker lights
    Roc Euro intake
    AWE touring exhaust
    APR CPS

  33. #33
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch_A6 View Post
    Not sure what eazy means with i'll be back but anyway, i'd love to replace the stock taillights with LED ones but I don't know if it can be done without re-coding.
    the only LED tails for sale I can find are the ones you posted from Germany. Those require re-coding

    I have no idea about coding stuff, is it a hard job? Would it be costly to pay someone to do it? Furthermore, how do you find a shop in your area that can do Audi coding?

  34. #34
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Guy from Audi parts dept said the problem could be solved by replacing the bulb holder part. Part is $106 + labor...

    Probably would end up costing more than just buying a new assembly and plugging it in myself

  35. #35
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanjoe13 View Post
    Guy from Audi parts dept said the problem could be solved by replacing the bulb holder part. Part is $106 + labor...

    Probably would end up costing more than just buying a new assembly and plugging it in myself
    Just do what noskill did under $10 bucks. I did it and no issues, problem solved. It's not hard to remove the tail, you'll need a 10mm deep socket to remove the 2 bolts from the trunk and duct tape to place on the outer side of the taillight len. That so you could pull the len toward the license plate remove it. Then you could hack at the wiring and fix the problem. Or replace for what +$? and the all led taillight look very cheap like those aftermarket light that you see on Honda's chevy's etc.,. But to all there own taste.

  36. #36
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eazy211187 View Post
    Just do what noskill did under $10 bucks. I did it and no issues, problem solved. It's not hard to remove the tail, you'll need a 10mm deep socket to remove the 2 bolts from the trunk and duct tape to place on the outer side of the taillight len. That so you could pull the len toward the license plate remove it. Then you could hack at the wiring and fix the problem. Or replace for what +$? and the all led taillight look very cheap like those aftermarket light that you see on Honda's chevy's etc.,. But to all there own taste.
    I know how to remove the assembly, done it a couple times. However, I don't trust my wiring and soldering skills to pull that job off. No experience doing that kind of stuff

  37. #37
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Removed the assembly and cleaned the corrosion off the "ground" prong with an aerosol cleaning spray and wire brush.

    Problem fixed... for now. Has worked all day, crossing my fingers

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dutch_A6's Avatar
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    good luck, i'm just having them replace the wiring harness, it's going to cost me $90 but is a more permanent solution and not as expensive as replacing the whole unit.

    Quote Originally Posted by ryanjoe13 View Post
    Removed the assembly and cleaned the corrosion off the "ground" prong with an aerosol cleaning spray and wire brush.

    Problem fixed... for now. Has worked all day, crossing my fingers
    Black 2012 A7 Prestige

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  39. #39
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch_A6 View Post
    good luck, i'm just having them replace the wiring harness, it's going to cost me $90 but is a more permanent solution and not as expensive as replacing the whole unit.
    Just an update: rear light has worked perfectly ever since cleaning it with aerosol cleaning spray and wire brush from AutoZone

    It was definitely caused by corrosion buildup on one of the prongs...

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings ryanjoe13's Avatar
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    don't use that "electrical gel" or whatever as it will clog the holes of the plug and cause further problems.

    clean prongs with wire brush and aerosol spray, then shoot some of the spray on a paper towel and wipe down face of plastic plug, then blow in it like a nintendo cartridge, plug back in and boooom! :)

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