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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings maga4's Avatar
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    Help Placing Jack Stands for Front End

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    I am trying to jack up the front of my car and hold it up with jack stands to get underneath it. After searching, it doesn't seem there is consensus on where to place the jack stands when you are jacking up the car with the standard jack from Audi. Where have you all place the jack stands in front to hold it without damaging anything? I know the pinch welds are a good place, but will that be fine with the stands I have and with the jack already there?

    I have these stands: http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...NPNAotHJQ6Kasw

    The other articles I have found:

    http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...NPNAotHJQ6Kasw

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...front-amp-rear

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...d=12&styleid=8

    Thanks in advance for the help!
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings jordancl's Avatar
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    There's a pretty big stretch of framework without the plastic guard over it (the pinch weld you're taking about). It's a tight fit but you need to place the jack all the way to one side of the cutout, and maneuver the jackstand on the other side.

    Hopefully that makes some kind of sense. This has been a semi-common question, next time I do this I'll have to take a pic.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings hiwords1's Avatar
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    i usually put mine where the lower control arm bolts up to the frame. don't put the jack under the control arm, put it on the frame
    Present: 2010 Audi A4 2.0TQ Tip. Mods: APR chip, clear bra side mirrors and headlights, krautoparts.com interior/lic plate LEDs, and VAG COM mods

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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings maga4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jordancl View Post
    There's a pretty big stretch of framework without the plastic guard over it (the pinch weld you're taking about). It's a tight fit but you need to place the jack all the way to one side of the cutout, and maneuver the jackstand on the other side.

    Hopefully that makes some kind of sense. This has been a semi-common question, next time I do this I'll have to take a pic.
    I got what you are saying, works perfect there. Thanks to both of you for your help!
    2010 A6 3.0T Prestige, Quartz/Black
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    LED Interior/License Plate Lights, Short Shifter, BFI Catch Can, V1, Rieger Lip Replica, FRT's FMIC, aFe Filter

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings k9lovr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiwords1 View Post
    i usually put mine where the lower control arm bolts up to the frame. don't put the jack under the control arm, put it on the frame
    +1
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings Russtty's Avatar
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    I've been doing some searching on how to properly jack up our cars as I was getting nervous when working towards installing my Alu Kreuz and sways this afternoon, so I'm reviving an old thread...

    I have a couple of questions:

    1) I just wanted to verify... Is it safe to jack up the car on the spot where the lower control arm bolts up to the frame as indicated? I was about to do it then got nervous as I didn't see alot of consensus on this.
    2) Once the car is in the air, what is the best orientation for the jack stands? I know to place them at the indicated points (triangles). Maybe my stands are not the greatest, but the only way I could see it working is placing them on the inside of the seams. I saw a post on the B5's that did it this way. Is that the best orientation and location? If I can't use the control arm bolting location as a jacking point, how can I fit the jack stand in at the same time as the jack? I simply could not make it work this afternoon... :(

    FYI: this is the link to what I'm talking about with regards to orientation. Is this the right way to do it?
    Thanks for any input!

    Steve
    Last edited by Russtty; 03-16-2012 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Added clarity (link) to question #2
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings maga4's Avatar
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    I have the same(ish) jack stands and put them in the same place. Actually just had it up today to do the intercooler hose kit install. Was nervous at first when I started this thread a while back to get the strat short shifter in. Definitely really sturdy. I got some cheap wheel chocks for the back wheels too.
    2010 A6 3.0T Prestige, Quartz/Black
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    LED Interior/License Plate Lights, Short Shifter, BFI Catch Can, V1, Rieger Lip Replica, FRT's FMIC, aFe Filter

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiwords1 View Post
    i usually put mine where the lower control arm bolts up to the frame. don't put the jack under the control arm, put it on the frame
    So you put the jack/jackstands on these bolts?

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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings hiwords1's Avatar
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    SMH: i don't really recognize the point of view from that pic. however here is a description of where to put a jackstand or jack point for any car with lower control arms. there are 2 ends to a control arm, one attached to the spindle which is away from the center of the car and one end on the frame/chassis which is the end closer to the center of the car. the frame/chassis is the skeleton of the whole car. using a jackstand or jack on the frame is completely safe (if your car isn't a huge pile of rust that is ;) ).

    if you are using a hydraulic jack (the usual ones you buy from a store where you have a handle you pump), on the frame rail where the factory jack point is for the jack that comes with the car, make sure you put the hydraulic jack as parallel to the frame rail at possible. i've had experiences where i've put the jack perpendicular to the rail and bent the rail. also hydraulic jacks can sometimes damage the frame rail but you can buy a rubber piece that fits on the jack and has a cut on it for the frame rail. i believe ecstuning.com sells these. you can buy pretty much any generic one as long as it fits on the jack. frame rails are pretty much the same thickness on all cars.

    if you are working on something that doesn't require taking off the wheel(s), don't even bother with a jack. just use a ramp but put a couple of jack stands under the car just in case. you should have about 18 inches of room to move around under there. unless you are a mammoth mongrol you shouldn't have any problems moving around under the car. if you are afraid of ramps i recommend RV jacks where it lifts the car up by the wheels.

    ALWAYS PUT AT LEAST ONE JACK STAND UNDER THE CAR IF YOU ARE UNDER IT!!!!!!!!

    DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT USE A JACKSTAND ON THE FRAME RAIL!!!!! MINIMIZE THE USE OF THE FACTORY PROVIDED JACK. THE ONES IN PAST AUDIS ARE CALLED WIDOWMAKERS FOR A REASON.

    i think i'm done lol
    Present: 2010 Audi A4 2.0TQ Tip. Mods: APR chip, clear bra side mirrors and headlights, krautoparts.com interior/lic plate LEDs, and VAG COM mods

    Past: 2001 Audi A4 2.8QM. Mods: H&R race springs, CC mod, tinted tails, RS4 mirrors, ST chip, and VAG COM mods. Traded in
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings formula1guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMH View Post
    So you put the jack/jackstands on these bolts?

    if it helps any, one of the guys who helped me do my brakes a couple of weeks ago placed a jack stand right there. I was nervous as hell but he was able to place it so it didn't rest right on the bolts but around them. That gouged the metal a bit but it was solid as a rock. With there being little to no room for a jack and jack stand at the factory jacking point, it was the only option. He works on his Z06 a ton and worked on airplanes at one time so I trusted him and it worked out just fine:) Hope that helps.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Thanks for the response guys. I posted the picture to assist the OP.

    After all the talk, I just went ahead and purchased this for my own use..

    http://www.purems.com/Products/PROTE...-Lift-Jack-Pad

    New: 2011 A4 Premium Plus Quattro 2.0T
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  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings Russtty's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback everyone! Looks like the control arm connection point is a good place to use the hydraulic jack from the feedback I'm seeing. I'm still a bit nervous about where to place the jack stand. There doesn't seem to be alot of room on the B8 on the inside of the seam weld for my jack stand. Maybe it is just the style of jack stand I have. Is there something else better out there, or any attachments for the jack stand itself? If someone had a good reference point for where to place the jack stand and the orientation I think I would start to feel much better.

    Thanks again!

    Steve
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings JJPquattro's Avatar
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    About a week ago, I just had to jack the front of my car up and I actually used the jack point to place the jack stand (it was a perfect spot). I jacked the car up at the control arm connection point and placed the jack stand where you would usually place the jack. Just my $.02 worth... Hope this helps.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings Russtty's Avatar
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    Does this look correct?





    Thanks!

    Steve
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  15. #15
    Senior Member Three Rings JJPquattro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russtty View Post
    Does this look correct?





    Thanks!

    Steve
    Yes, that will work fine too. I actually had mine rotated 90 degrees to where that edge sat right in the middle of the jack stand (sorry I don't have a photo for reference). If that is stable, you should be fine though. Good luck!

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings simplicity's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if that point your supporting on is strong enough to hold the weight of the car....the factory designed point is actually ON the "rail" that sticks out...and I would rotate the jack stand 90 degrees with either a jack pad or 4x2.

    Look at the picture here in this thread post #9
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings jfo's Avatar
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    We are all just speculating here, since no one seems to know what is underneath the area where you have placed the jack stand. That approach does concentrate the force onto a very small area however....the small contact spot of the stand cradle. My stand cradle is curved and the actual contact area is only about 1/2 sq in per side! That puts a lot of weight on a very small spot. The safest spot is certainly the pinch weld. It would spread the weight over the length of the weld similar to an I beam, and would be quite strong. I agree with simplicity's comment.
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