How much is this 2000 Audi A4 1.8T worth?

[BlazinB5]

i totaled my last car a week ago, so now i'm looking at this one. it does have a couple (a lot) of issues though:

-Original Timing Belt (with 135,000 miles)
-Original Clutch
-Control Arms move around
-Flex pipe is about to bust in half
-Serpentine belt is cracked real bad
-Coolant reservoir has pressure cracks
-Vacuum lines all need to be changed
-Sticking thermostat
-Ripped driver seat
-Has a some rust starting on the driver side rear quarter panel
-Dipstick has the loop broken off, but still works
-Hood release is busted, but there's still a stub to pull on
-Tie rods have torn boots (dirt is inside of the boots)
-There is NO Check Engine Light


http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/an...714738732.html

i'm obviously going to have to jew them down, so what would be a fair price on this used car?

[redline380]

ive seen that one before. in my opinion its not worth much more than 3000$. a clutch is expensive, whether you do the work or not. if you do buy it, i had mine done for 800$ just south of st. cloud. the tear in the seat is just a reason to either have them recovered or buy other ones. all those problems sound like average b5 problems to me. curious as to why you put the broken dipstick thing on there. they are like 10 bucks on ecs.

[SS92]

I paid 5k for mine @ 103,xxx miles. It had recent clutch job, TB/Waterpump, it was BT w/ tune and all the goodies, wheels w no damage etc etc. Mine needed control arms changed and its fluids changed, and a few other minor issues but its all good, nothing terrible. Minor dings, and drivers seat tear as well.

I wouldn't pay more than 4k if I had to do it again. Check the head for leaks, thats probably where the oil smell is coming from, or from a clogged PCV system (My oil smell was PCV). Get a vag com and scan it. Ebay cable is like ten doll hairs. If they wont let you scan, tell the dealer fuck off. Ask for the car fox.

Oh and the ATW engine is the red headed step child of the bunch, it's only in the 2000 year.

I'd go private and pay way less...

[coolgraymemo]

That's too much.

[M-Hood]

I

Oh and the ATW engine is the red headed step child of the bunch, it's only in the 2000 year.

I'd go private and pay way less...

Well really only for the tuning. Good thing is already comes with the best coil packs.

[viceprp]

If I had to do it all again, I would have bought an '01. I would do the same if I were you and just move on. The CH ecu can be setup with ME7 which would be the selling point of the B5 platform to me. I'm just saying this since I own a narrowband 1.8

[zamflip]

Forget it...

[morzechowski]

keep looking, you will find a better one. are you a member on MNAudi? I think there are a few nice cars posted on there as we speak.

[redline380]

^truth. im diggin the 2001.5 on there. very nice vehicle. its almost exactly like mine. black with all the options and celebration rims, only 95k for 7000$ obo. id look into that one.
info...
Brilliant Black
95.7k Miles
Celebration Package with ESP, Garage door opener on the sun visor, etc.
Extremely rare cloth sport seats with bolsters that are heated.
Cold Weather Package
Sport Package
Xenon headlights
A8 Brake upgrade with slotted rotors
APR Tuned (91 Octane and Stock programs)
Clear Cornered
Tinted windows
S4 side view mirrors

The RS4 Type Wheels that came in the Celebration Package have worn summer tires that will need to be replaced. The OZ wheels (last pic) have Nokian WRs with 75% remaining. They're 205/55/16.

The timing belt/water pump job was done at 67k miles.
New front and rear rotors and pads installed at 79k miles
Febi Bilstein Kit (Control arms, Tie rods, etc.) were installed at 79k

[BlazinB5]

thanks for the awesome responses and help guys, but it looks like that one is a money pit. the transmission actually needs a rebuild, and the transfer case isn't sending full power to all 4 wheels. i put the car up on a lift; put it in first gear to get the wheels moving, and me (and a buddy) were actually able to completely stop both rear wheels from spinning, while the front one's kept on going. i'm pretty sure one wheel should be unstoppable... i think?

keep looking, you will find a better one. are you a member on MNAudi? I think there are a few nice cars posted on there as we speak.

not yet, but i think i'll have to. other than the one black b5 i found, the rest are either automatic, or older than 2000. thanks for the link

[M-Hood]

If the car is in the air the wheels with the least resistance will keep spinning, just how the Center Diff (torsen) works.

[BlazinB5]

If the car is in the air the wheels with the least resistance will keep spinning, just how the Center Diff (torsen) works.

hmm... so what if both wheels (rear wheels) are held in place and stop spinning? is it actually legit for the rear wheels to stop spinning(while in first gear on the lift & "rolling") when held with one person on each rear wheel?

[M-Hood]

Yes the rear wheels can stop spinning because the front wheels have nothing putting resistance on them. This is why we are not able to run our Quattro cars on a single roller dyno without welding the center diff.

There is nothing wrong with that car. If you disconnect 1 axle and put the car on the ground you will find out that the car will not move because the spot where the axle was can spin freely while the 3 other tires on the ground have resistance.

[BlazinB5]

i tested the AWD system on snow/ice; and yep, it works perfect, so there's definitely no t-case issue. but it does have a couple (a lot) of other issues:
-Original Timing Belt (with 135,000 miles)
-Control Arms move around
-Flex pipe is about to bust in half
-Serpentine belt is cracked real bad
-Coolant reservoir has pressure cracks
-Vacuum lines all need to be changed
-Sticking thermostat
-Ripped driver seat
-Tie rods have torn boots (dirt is inside of the boots)
-There is NO Check Engine Light

Would it even be worth trying to jew them down? or is this car the perfect example of what to avoid?

[redline380]

This is what would typically be called a mechanics special. Unless the interior is absolutely immaculate, it isn't worth much more than 2000

[BKLenny]

First off, please don't be an anti-semite. It is crude and disrespectful! As for the car, I agree with Redline here. When I read your initial post I valued the car at about 2k. If you are really attached to this particular car, go ahead and give him 3k for it, but you'd be losing your arse if you paid more than that!

[walky_talky20]

If you can DIY stuff, none of that sounds too bad. It would need a full t-belt service (like $300 for parts), full control arm/tie rod kit ($250), and probably some pcv/vac line stuff/VC & CCT gaskets/etc ($100). If you can pay like 2k-2.5k, you're doing ok. If you really like it and want to pay 3k for it, that's up to you. That color is not very common, so if you pass on it you may not find another like it.

Personally, this is how I would prefer to buy Audi's (ie: broken), because I can fix it myself and end up with a good deal. But if you're not getting a good deal you need to walk away. If the problem are that glaring, he'll have it 2 months from now and he may be more willing to deal then. You probably don't have that kind of time, though.

[BlazinB5]

that's what i was beginning to think. "if this isn't a mechanics special, then i don't want is," lol. if all of this hasn't been done, then i'm sure the whole car is probably shot. it's probably even using the original transmission/differential fluid. the compression of the engine is probably shit too. things like this say a lot about a previous owner.

[BlazinB5]

If you can DIY stuff, none of that sounds too bad. It would need a full t-belt service (like $300 for parts), full control arm/tie rod kit ($250), and probably some pcv/vac line stuff/VC & CCT gaskets/etc ($100). If you can pay like 2k-2.5k, you're doing ok. If you really like it and want to pay 3k for it, that's up to you. That color is not very common, so if you pass on it you may not find another like it.

Personally, this is how I would prefer to buy Audi's (ie: broken), because I can fix it myself and end up with a good deal. But if you're not getting a good deal you need to walk away. If the problem are that glaring, he'll have it 2 months from now and he may be more willing to deal then. You probably don't have that kind of time, though.

ya i'll definitely try lowering him (owner of the dealer) down to $2,500, but i get a small feeling that he might not since a lot of these problems wouldn't be noticeable to a soccer mom; so i'm sure they could possibly screw someone over with that car. we'll see.

i would love doing all of that for fun though. a Bentley manual on DVD would probably make all of this fairly simple (even though it's not). quick question though; does the A6 use the same control arm/tie rod setup? Bentley actually has a sample clip showing how to do upper and lower control arms:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrYAAtlsjnY