How complicated is it to replace the battery on a B8 A4?

[majerrahim]

didnt you said it was 350???

[JeriQo]

What is a faulty battery?

I suppose. It always gives me a 'battery will charge when running' they replaced it

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[029kid]

Im confused, I checked my battery in the trunk yesterday. This is what I found.





It says VARTA JCB 12V 105AH 580A DIN, and the BEM code does not match the info I find in VCDS.

Why is the B replaced with 1 ?

If I want to use a Varta Ultra dynamic AGM G14 850A 95A will that be a problem, as its capacity is not the same (95ah vs 105ah), and the CCA is 850A and not 580A as the OEM battery ?
What code do I use ?
This is the battery I want to use and what the VARTA homepage says Im supposed to use, the QR code is not working.






hlp :)

[Gunnark100]

You need: Varta H15 105/950...
http://www.eurobateria.es/BTVARH15/en

It will match with yours genuine figures, ignore 580 see en/sae figure of oem its 950! I would not go lower with Ah specialy in Norway:)



What are your genuine battery(4L0915105) dimensions 353*175*190 or 390*175*190, second one should be correct ?

[029kid]

Im not sure what the dimensions are, Ill measure later today and post here.
I did found and order the Varta H15 battery which is identical as the OEM, Ill pick it up tomorrow and see if it has a BEM.. If not I might need help decode the coding ;)

[Gunnark100]

Im not sure what the dimensions are, Ill measure later today and post here.
I did found and order the Varta H15 battery which is identical as the OEM, Ill pick it up tomorrow and see if it has a BEM.. If not I might need help decode the coding ;)

H14 is shorter, if you get H15 just change last digit of current coding and you fine if no BEM.

[toast88]

I replaced my battery yesterday. But it still acts like it is low on power - lights don't come on when I unlock the doors, radio doesn't turn on unless I press the button.
I guess this means it must be coded in order for the car to "know" that the battery has been replaced. You would think the computer could tell that there is a fresh battery

[029kid]

Was your car in power saving mode when you changed the battery?

[misterpepper]

My '09 has been sluggish to start in the mornings lately, but the MMI still shows the battery at 100%, even after it just struggled to start the car. I have a new battery waiting to be installed -- I just wanted to read through this thread to see what I needed to do as far as coding. But now I'm wondering if I even need to code the new battery, since I never hit low power mode. Should I just swap the battery and not worry about coding it? Why is my battery meter still showing 100% when the battery is obviously struggling to start the car?

[doowopaudi]

My '09 has been sluggish to start in the mornings lately, but the MMI still shows the battery at 100%, even after it just struggled to start the car. I have a new battery waiting to be installed -- I just wanted to read through this thread to see what I needed to do as far as coding. But now I'm wondering if I even need to code the new battery, since I never hit low power mode. Should I just swap the battery and not worry about coding it? Why is my battery meter still showing 100% when the battery is obviously struggling to start the car?

My car has been struggling to start up at times too. I think i'll buy one and have it ready too.

I actually read through the entire thread and some ppl report they didnt code and their car works fine. Others report they needed to code.

[misterpepper]

I just checked again a few minutes ago and my MMI is now showing 70%, so not only is it working correctly, but my battery is failing. It seems like the MMI wouldn't give you much warning before the battery gives out, at least with the battery mine has (according to the dealership there were something like 6 different batteries for my model year). Looks like I'll go ahead and swap it out tonight. Now, do I recode???

[booost]

I just checked again a few minutes ago and my MMI is now showing 70%, so not only is it working correctly, but my battery is failing. It seems like the MMI wouldn't give you much warning before the battery gives out, at least with the battery mine has (according to the dealership there were something like 6 different batteries for my model year). Looks like I'll go ahead and swap it out tonight. Now, do I recode???

I just changed 1 digit of the BEM code since my new battery didn't have one. The battery meter went from 15% with the old battery to 100% after the coding.

[misterpepper]

I don't know why I'm making this hard. I have a vagcom -- it's not like recoding it will be that big of a deal. I think I'll swap the battery first without recoding for a few days, to see if it goes back to 100% by itself, but I'll recode regardless. Thanks.

[029kid]

New battery bought, Varta H15 - the dimensions is exactly like the OEM.


This is the current coding of OEM battery.


What will the new code be?

VCDS shows 10 digits (serial number) on old OEM battery, new Varta shows 12 digits.. What do I do?

[A4 Centaur]

Just add a Zero and a One?

[029kid]

Serialnumber is supposed to be a 10 digit code. If adding 01 to the current code, it's 12 digit.

Whats the meaning behind adding 01?

[SDF1]

Serialnumber is supposed to be a 10 digit code. If adding 01 to the current code, it's 12 digit.

Whats the meaning behind adding 01?

The easiest thing to do is to change 1 digit in the code. so it knows its a new battery

- (N) Part number - (11 digits) - kept this the same as the previous battery.
- (V) Vendor code - (3 digits) - in my case VA0 for Varta
- (S) Serial number (10 digits, but leaving out the starting 3 digits of manufacturer)

NNNNNNNNNNN VVV SSSSSSSSSS

[029kid]

I really appreciate you helping me :)

So what you are saying is, as long as the new battery has the same specifications I can just edit one of the 10 digits in the serialnumber so it triggers "new battery installed" mode?

This is the current with OEM battery
4L0915105 JCB 210413D0SD

New code
4L0915105 JCB 210414D0SD

As shown, I changed the digit 3 with 4.

Is that correct?

[SDF1]

Yup

[misterpepper]

I put my new battery in a few days ago without recoding anything. No problems so far, and battery indicator shows 100%. I will recode anyway, since I have another change I want to make at the same time, but I don't think that skipping the recode is a problem if your battery hasn't gotten to sub 10% levels.

[A4 Centaur]

So, the lack of responses regarding the question of an Optima Battery replacement had me doing some research and staring at pictures of the battery bracket and posts etc.

It looks like the dimensions are as follows:

Optima 8020-164 35 REDTOP / Interstate MEGA-TRON PLUS 94R/H7 790 CCA

Length: 9.38, 12.44

Width 6.75, 6.94

Height 7.69, 7.50

Weight 31lbs , 42.9lbs


Looks like the clamp base on the Optima will work just fine. So I'll take a look around for a good price. Had an Optima in my VW TDi and was a darn good a long lasting battery. Losing a little weight is not a bad thing either.

Looks like the price is right too: $174 from Summit Racing

UPC: 811405001642

Battery Usage: Starting

BCI Group Number: 35

Volts: 12 V

Battery Terminals: Top

Battery Type: AGM

Cranking Amps at 0 Degrees F: 720 amps

Cranking Amps at 32 Degrees F: 910 amps

Reserve Capacity: 90 minutes

Length (in): 9.380 in.

Width (in): 6.750 in.

Height (in): 7.690 in.

Weight: 31.700 lbs.

[domamei]

Should be this one: AutoCraft Platinum AGMBattery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA Part No H8-AGM. It was like $120 after the pick up in store discount and rebate. As for the code, I changed one digit in the BEM code that was already in there and it seems to work fine, the battery meter has gone back up to 100%.

Thanks booost and every one else for this info! I got this exact battery. And coded it by changing the last number on vcds, cleared all my faults, and enabled the battery level meter. I have a 2010 Audi A4 premium with the concert ami radio. Everything is all good now. Spending 157 after taxes and core, and got 20 dollars for joining the speed perks membership.

There's a 30% off coupon for advanced auto if you spend over 50 dollars by the way. Code is: TRT30. Ordered online and picked up in store.

[doowopaudi]

Just replaced my OEM battery with an AutoZone Duralast Gold *** 900 Cold Cranking Amps (1000 Cranking Amps) ***. 150 reserve minutes. 5 year warranty for $149.99 (3 year free replacement and 2 year prorated)
The old battery was struggling. My car wouldn't turn on right away and then my interior cabin lights wouldn't turn my lights on either while I sat in the car. I bought the new battery before I ended up stranded somewhere, went home and installed it and now everything is back to normal. No recoding done because I don't have vag-com. After intalling the new battery, i went back to AutoZone to return the OEM core for $18 credit. Before they issued me credit, I asked them to test the battery and sure enough, it said "Bad Battery". I'm glad I changed it now. Hopefully this one lasts me another 5 years, since I plan on keeping this Audi for a looong time.

[doowopaudi]

I bought my car CPO on April 2, 2013 and I am the second owner. My car is a 2010 A4. Is there any way to tell whether this is the OEM battery that came with the car when it was originally sold to the first owner? Also, is there a way to know when my car was built (exact day or month and year)?
This is the battery that was in my car and I didn't find any dates. If this does happen to be the original battery, then I am really impressed. This battery would have lasted from 2010 all the way to today! That's 5 years and a few weeks (or months depending on the install date).

[doowopaudi]

Not sure if I did this correctly. I installed s new battery and coded it just wondering if these numbers make sense. Car doesn't seem to be in the low battery mode (forgot the term) and I coded the battery meter to show on the mmi without having navigation and showing 100%

Any thoughts?

I guess my MAIN question is as long as the car sees a new battery code, it will work as if the dealer installed it? It would have been nice to have the BEM code but does it really matter if the car sees a new number that doesn't totally 100% MATCH the new battery...? I would think that my old battery and new battery both have the same characteristics so everything should be fine... Just looking for some thoughts on this one!

I don't have a vag com, but exactly how does one arrive to the screen shots shown above when coding the battery? I am currently in search of someone locally with vagcom who can assist with coding and I want to make sure I provide instructions on how to arrive to the correct screens. Thanks.

[domamei]

I don't have a vag com, but exactly how does one arrive to the screen shots shown above when coding the battery? I am currently in search of someone locally with vagcom who can assist with coding and I want to make sure I provide instructions on how to arrive to the correct screens. Thanks.

It's on the top of the pictures. After plugging the vagcom cable in and downloading the software. Open vcds up and select the setting "19-gateway" then it should say long coding like the last picture or battery status on 1st picture. Just play around with it alittle. It's not too hard. Good luck.

[kwbdc]

So, the lack of responses regarding the question of an Optima Battery replacement had me doing some research and staring at pictures of the battery bracket and posts etc.

It looks like the dimensions are as follows:

Optima 8020-164 35 REDTOP / Interstate MEGA-TRON PLUS 94R/H7 790 CCA

Length: 9.38, 12.44

Width 6.75, 6.94

Height 7.69, 7.50

Weight 31lbs , 42.9lbs


Looks like the clamp base on the Optima will work just fine. So I'll take a look around for a good price. Had an Optima in my VW TDi and was a darn good a long lasting battery. Losing a little weight is not a bad thing either.

Looks like the price is right too: $174 from Summit Racing

UPC: 811405001642

Battery Usage: Starting

BCI Group Number: 35

Volts: 12 V

Battery Terminals: Top

Battery Type: AGM

Cranking Amps at 0 Degrees F: 720 amps

Cranking Amps at 32 Degrees F: 910 amps

Reserve Capacity: 90 minutes

Length (in): 9.380 in.

Width (in): 6.750 in.

Height (in): 7.690 in.

Weight: 31.700 lbs.

Did you end up getting the Optima? I'm thinking the same, I've used the red and yellow top on previous cars and they are excellent batteries.

[audiAYYY4]

I bought my car CPO on April 2, 2013 and I am the second owner. My car is a 2010 A4. Is there any way to tell whether this is the OEM battery that came with the car when it was originally sold to the first owner? Also, is there a way to know when my car was built (exact day or month and year)?
This is the battery that was in my car and I didn't find any dates. If this does happen to be the original battery, then I am really impressed. This battery would have lasted from 2010 all the way to today! That's 5 years and a few weeks (or months depending on the install date).

#necro

Surprisingly my 2010 is still on the OEM battery, and showing 30%. Good thread, though pretty repetitive. People should go back and read.

Didn't know there was a "low power mode". I was just going to wait until I had trouble starting to swap the battery, but now I'm going to swap right away to avoid the "required" coding to get out of "low power mode". I wonder if the Carista app handles recoding, would be awesome if it did!

[Lambda13]

My 2009 still says battery 100%. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

[toast88]

I hate the batteries on these cars. It is pretty ridiculous you can't just replace the battery. My car has been stuck in low power mode for about 6 months because no one I have taken it to can seem to figure out how to program the battery to get it back to normal. I have the carista app and i do not believe it does battery coding, although I think I read that it was something that could happen in the future.

[audiAYYY4]

I hate the batteries on these cars. It is pretty ridiculous you can't just replace the battery. My car has been stuck in low power mode for about 6 months because no one I have taken it to can seem to figure out how to program the battery to get it back to normal. I have the carista app and i do not believe it does battery coding, although I think I read that it was something that could happen in the future.

Wow, that's ridiculous that an Audi service center wouldn't be able to do it.

[PCHS4]

Picked up a Bosch AGM Battery for $187 at Pep Boys using the 20% online coupon. Install and coding went fine. Just changed the last digit of the battery serial number.

[toast88]

Wow, that's ridiculous that an Audi service center wouldn't be able to do it.

Yea I asked them to do it when I had it in for the Oil consumption Piston Ring change, maybe the just didn't feel like doing it, or didn't understand what I was asking them to do

[bluetori]

My 2009 still says battery 100%. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

Um on an 09 without Nav? Links

[Lambda13]

Um on an 09 without Nav? Links

What do you mean links? I have the battery meter enabled on my MMI and it says 100%. I've had the car since about 30k miles so unless Audi swapped my battery without telling me or charging me mine's still chugging along.

[Jacon]

My 2009 still says battery 100%. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

same and I'm the original owner. Currently at 97K miles.

I have Nav.

[bluetori]

What do you mean links? I have the battery meter enabled on my MMI and it says 100%. I've had the car since about 30k miles so unless Audi swapped my battery without telling me or charging me mine's still chugging along.

But you don't have Nav correct? I thought you enabled it via VCDS, I don't have Nav and it's not on my car. I meant if you had a link for coding.

[Lambda13]

But you don't have Nav correct? I thought you enabled it via VCDS, I don't have Nav and it's not on my car. I meant if you had a link for coding.

Oh, ya no nav. I wasn't the one that enabled the battery meter either. I don't even remember who did it. May have been @Project Quattro.

[theSaint024]

Has anyone tested voltage readings with a voltmeter? Using the mmi battery meter seems pretty inexact. All readings say 30% or 100% from what I've read (exaggerating). I suspect my battery is at the end of life but I don't know what the replacement voltage is or even what full voltage is on the OEM battery. I'm reading 12.0 +/- 0.1. From what I've read about car batteries in general, 11.9 is dead. Can anyone confirm this? My wife's 3 month old car has read as high as 14v. I'm pretty sure I'm just going to switch it out but hoping for some more definitive numbers from someone who's checked the voltage before and after a swap.

[domamei]

Has anyone tested voltage readings with a voltmeter? Using the mmi battery meter seems pretty inexact. All readings say 30% or 100% from what I've read. I suspect my battery is at the end of life but I don't know what the replacement voltage is or even what full voltage is on the OEM battery. I'm reading 12.0 +/- 0.1. From what I've read about car batteries in general, 11.9 is dead. Can anyone confirm this? My wife's 3 month old car has read as high as 14v. I'm pretty sure I'm just going to switch it out but hoping for some more definitive numbers from someone who's checked the voltage before and after a swap.

I've tested the battery for our cars with a multimeter. You are correct 12 and above is good (without the engine running). With the engine running it should jump up to 13-14s. Your battery may still be good. I took mine out to be tested at a autozone. But still had battery issues after fully charging it there twice. I ended up getting a new battery and it fixed my issues.