P2006 + P2007 - Intake Runner Stuck Closed

[jdaudi]

05 C6 3.2


So heres my problem.. CEL came on.. P2006, P2007 came up. Alldata says "Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed bank 1 (P2006) and bank 2 (P2007)" It comes on, then goes off, comes on.. Goes off.. (Every few trips.)

Friends say its a vacuum leak. TSB says it could be a vacuum leak or the intake manifold actuator diaphragm. My other friend gave me a vacuum pump to use saying i could use it to diagnose this. I have never worked with vacuum lines before, could some give me some directions? Has anyone experienced this?

Thanks guys!

[jdaudi]

Solved: Thanks nobodys input - Vacuum line way down by the evap canister melted against the block, broke clean off. Repaired, fixed.

[jb246]

Solved: Thanks nobodys input - Vacuum line way down by the evap canister melted against the block, broke clean off. Repaired, fixed.

jdaudi, just came across your post. I've had the exact same issue (CEL on, P2006 + P2007 codes) in the last few days on my 2006 3.2 (~44000 miles). I saw the advice on checking vacuum lines and sure enough found a break in the line to the evap canister, just below where it theroetically clips onto the dipstick (clip was broken, not sure for how long).

I yanked on the end just below the break and a 3-inch section came off in my hand, with a hole melted through the middle of it from contact with the head.

My question is: where the heck is the other end of this line (on the evap canister), and how do I get to it? Did you have to go underneath the car to swap that line or can you do it from the engine bay up top?

Thanks

[ebi718]

jdaudi, just came across your post. I've had the exact same issue (CEL on, P2006 + P2007 codes) in the last few days on my 2006 3.2 (~44000 miles). I saw the advice on checking vacuum lines and sure enough found a break in the line to the evap canister, just below where it theroetically clips onto the dipstick (clip was broken, not sure for how long).

I yanked on the end just below the break and a 3-inch section came off in my hand, with a hole melted through the middle of it from contact with the head.

My question is: where the heck is the other end of this line (on the evap canister), and how do I get to it? Did you have to go underneath the car to swap that line or can you do it from the engine bay up top?

Thanks

Bumping this up. I just pulled both codes, with MIL on. Is the fix as simple as replacing vacuum line(s)? Thanks in advance!!

UPDATE: Fixed!! Hose/pipe was broken in 2 places...... I got a replacement hose from Autozone; took me about 10 minutes; codes cleared, MIL gone.

[Santana's S5]

Bumping this up. I just pulled both codes, with MIL on. Is the fix as simple as replacing vacuum line(s)? Thanks in advance!!

UPDATE: Fixed!! Hose/pipe was broken in 2 places...... I got a replacement hose from Autozone; took me about 10 minutes; codes cleared, MIL gone.

Where are the vacuum hoses located? This code just popped up on my car.

[MedicCarter]

What were your problems when the car was running? I'm wondering if my issue is related to the flap runner too. Not sure if its that or a coil pack going bad but I'm checking my options.

[ebi718]

Where are the vacuum hoses located? This code just popped up on my car.

The hoses/lines are usually under the front engine plastic cover. When you locate then, trace from from one end to the other. GL.

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[Santana's S5]

The hoses/lines are usually under the front engine plastic cover. When you locate then, trace from from one end to the other. GL.

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Thanks. Turned out that the arm that open and closes the flap somehow got disconnected. Everything's working fine now.

[ebi718]

Thanks. Turned out that the arm that open and closes the flap somehow got disconnected. Everything's working fine now.

Nice

[AdiDas]

hey guys this code got thrown on my a4 3.2 and the mechanic has checked the vac line several times and can't find a leak. he called audi and they couldn't figure out why the code was being thrown.

any input would be helpful. my mechanic says that the car runs, but has a really rough i9dle

[richard94]

Hey guys, i bought my car with the check engine light on and it had the code p2006, p2007, and so.etimes the p2404. I have already found 2 vacuum leaks that it had and after checking about 6 times, i can not find any more. I have cleared the codes but they keep coming up. Is it possible that my vacuum pump went out? Because if i turn my car on there is no sucktion in any like. The car's idle is normal and it runs great but i still have those codes. Any suggestions?

[tboo72]

I have this same problem. My hose broke in half & Im getting a CEL. Does anybody know the part number at Autozone?

[jdaudi]

Hi All,

Sorry I have been gone (have had no audi issues up until now so I am replying to my past threads.) When this issue happens to your car you will feel a major decrease in performance, almost scary (scared the hell out of me at first!) This is 9/10 vacuum leak issue. You can follow my new vacuum thread here, which I am sure a lot of smart audi folks will give lots of great suggestions on how to locate these leaks and where they may be (common areas). If you have any specific questions about this code PM me!

Thanks guys!

[dondraper]

Same issue and same codes. I had replaced the cracked hose and the check engine light didn't appear again for a month and a half. Light came on again last week with the same codes so I took it in this time. Mechanic says it's the "Intake Manifold Runner Control Actuator"; and when you give the car gas it blow the hose off. To fix it they need to order a new Intake Manifold Runner Control Actuator and with labour and parts I'm looking at around $860 ...any thoughts?

[Sodium]

OK, I have just finished with this and the problem had nothing to do with vacuum.

Turns out that when installing the intake runners/fuel rail you need to reach inside the intake runner duct and actuate the runner slightly. Otherwise the runner will be pinned over the intake divider mounted in the cylinder head and be unable to actuate. (remember when installing the fuel rail to use a little petroleum jelly to allow the fuel injector o-rings to seat easily and not twist in their socket on the fuel rail).

You should be able to see the intake divider in each intake next to the runner. You should be able to reach down into the duct and actuate the runner by hand once the fuel rail/runner ducts are installed on the head.

Voila, problem solved. I couldn't find this procedure in my Bentley manual nor in any of the vids I checked out on line when blasting my intake valves with walnut grit and consequently reassembled the darn thing incorrectly.

If you bought your car with these codes, as some folks above mentioned, then chances are good someone took the intake system apart, possibly to blast or clean the valves or possibly to replace one or more fuel injector. The repair is time consuming but relatively simple.

Disconnect the battery, put out cigarettes, don't work near heaters or flames, make sure there's good ventilation. You need to undo the fuel rails and that's going to spill fuel all over the place.

1) Remove intake ducts & air filter.
2) Remove the throttle body
3) Disconnect the PCV duct by the firewall. It attaches behind the throttle body.
4) Disconnect electrical connectors to the intake manifold.
5) Disconnect the vacuum lines at the front and back of the manifold.
6) Pull the 12 bolts from the intake manifold and remove the intake manifold. (there's 6 gaskets for connecting the intake manifold to the intake runner ducts. Make sure you've got all of those.

Now check the runners. You should be able to look into the intake ducts (6) that lead to the cylinders and see a flap half way across the duct. You should be able to reach down into the duct and push firmly against the metal runner flap. It should depress to open INTO the duct. If it won't move check for the divider flap. That should be up against the runner flap. If the divider flap is UNDER the runner flap then this is your problem.

7) Disconnect the 2 stainless steel fuel lines. Use rags to sop up the gas that will spill.
8) Undo the 5 bolts and 2 nuts on each intake runner duct. These are attached to the fuel rail too. NOTE: fuel is going to spill everywhere.
9) Tug the intake runner/fuel rail up gently. Sop up the fuel that spills everywhere with rags. Put the rags outside to evaporate. Pull the assembly fully off the guide bolts and remove the fuel injector o-rings. While it's good practice to replace these every time you do this service in my experience these are ludicrously hard to source. If your o-rings are in reasonably good condition put them back on the fuel injector, coat them in petroleum jelly so that they don't bind in the socket in the fuel rail and twist. These MUST be lubricated or you risk a major fuel leak when you attempt to start the car UNDER the intake manifold.
10) Using your fingers to actuate the intake runner to keep it clear of the intake divider re-seat the intake runner ducts and fuel rail over the fuel injectors. Release the intake runner plate and it should snug up against the intake divider plate. Snug down the middle three bolts on the assembly and then use your fingers to be sure the runner plate still moves freely and it not pinned on top of the intake divider plate.

Do the same on the other side and reverse the steps to reassemble.

WARNING. Take the time to double check the fuel line flange fittings to be sure they are properly snug. If these leak you're not going to be able to access them once the intake manifold is back on. Proper assembly of the fuel system at this point is truly critical or engine fires can result.

Also, get our your code scanner or VAGCOM software. When the fuel system purges the air in the lines it's going to set codes and carry on. So once the engine is running again you'll need to reset codes once more.

If the intake runners are clear and operable you will notice a LOT more power from the engine. It'll run quite well in spite of them being pinned but the difference is dramatic.

ETA: I found on another part of the forum a replacement part for the impossible to find fuel injector o-ring seals. AutoZone part number 800-9212 is a set of 8 for about $7. They are an exact fit. So if you dig in this deep to your intakes just swap 'em out while you're in there.

[Sodium]

Oh, one other thing. The vacuum actuators for the intake runners connect to an 1/8" vacuum line at a T connector near the firewall at the back of the intake manifold right above the MAP sensor. FYI.

[SinCityA6]

Good write up! Thanks for taking the time to do it. Value added post FTW!


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[clAudi]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but just scanned my car the other day and got these two codes (p2006 + p2007). But the thing is my CEL never went off and I haven't noticed any power loss or anything like that so I'm not sure what to do.

Also if anyone has some pictures to identify what needs to be changed/fixed that would be great. I'm a beginner DIYer something's are hard to differentiate.

Thanks,


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[JPJ2007]

I have the codes too after doing a carbon cleaning and made sure I had the runner installed correctly and not pinned by the metal divider.

The vacuum lines are extremely brittle. I broke another yesterday trying to clean the engine looking for oil leaks. I guess I'll be running to auto zone for flexible vacuum lines.

clAudi, Here's some of my broken lines to show you which ones they are talking about. Removing the plastic engine covers expose all the lines.


Broke that line you see trying to clean the brake vacuum pump.... ugh



that small hard line comes up and into multiple larger rubber lines.


so here's an older photo of my car. You can see here with the plastic removed the hard lines are showing. They go just under the intake cover and T on the right side.

[clAudi]

I have the codes too after doing a carbon cleaning and made sure I had the runner installed correctly and not pinned by the metal divider.

The vacuum lines are extremely brittle. I broke another yesterday trying to clean the engine looking for oil leaks. I guess I'll be running to auto zone for flexible vacuum lines.

clAudi, Here's some of my broken lines to show you which ones they are talking about. Removing the plastic engine covers expose all the lines.


Broke that line you see trying to clean the brake vacuum pump.... ugh



that small hard line comes up and into multiple larger rubber lines.


so here's an older photo of my car. You can see here with the plastic removed the hard lines are showing. They go just under the intake cover and T on the right side.

Thanks for this!


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[JPJ2007]

Of course. Now where is this canister I need to check for broke lines it sounds like

[Silv3r]

My error codes... what is wrong now with my audi? :(

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[JPJ2007]

That's interesting and im not sure exactly what it means. Sorry...

I still have issues and have just given up for now.

[Silv3r]

I have checked my vacuum pipes and everything look ok :(

I found some yellow oil/grease in one of the pipes (the one from the vacuum tank). Where is the main vacuum pump in S5 4.2? Is it the same pump as for the brakes?

Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka

[cal3thousand]

I have checked my vacuum pipes and everything look ok :(

I found some yellow oil/grease in one of the pipes (the one from the vacuum tank). Where is the main vacuum pump in S5 4.2? Is it the same pump as for the brakes?

Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka

Yes, they are the same vacuum pump. It should be in the front driver side on the end of the camshaft.

[Silv3r]

Are you talking about the #11 (pic)?

Where may I find possible leak of this yellow oil/grease?

[95blkmax]

could you take a picture of this vacuum pipe just to be sure we are talking about the same one?

When the vacuum pump goes bad, it first starts to leak oil outside, down to the lower radiator hose and the alternator. But also leaks oil internally. If the pump is VERY bad, then the plastic fitting at the top where the hose goes into it may be loose and allowing outside air to enter the pump. This outside air can have humidity in it, which combined with the engine oil already inside the pump can create a milk-colored substance (similar to when a head gasket goes bad and coolant mixes with oil).

If this hose you are talking about, is the same as the one at the top of the vacuum pump, this may just be your problem, and replacing the pump and mounting gasket SHOULD fix it. Just be sure you do not have any breaks on any of the other small vacuum hoses/ pipes.

Good luck!

[Silv3r]

Pipe #41

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[B. Rock]

Just got these codes today after carbon cleaning...onto the hunt for vacuum leaks it would seem.

[Ford Prefect]

Just got these codes today after carbon cleaning...onto the hunt for vacuum leaks it would seem.

Did you make sure you could see the divider plate up reinstall of the manifolds? Post 15 on this thread.

Post 46 on this thread: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...2k-miles/page2

Also here:

For future searchers, here are two pics, the first is how it should look and the second is how it shouldn't upon reinstall. I recommend you keep making sure they move as you go through the torque sequence. One on the end popped back over, so I was glad I kept checking.


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[B. Rock]

I'm about 80% sure. It's the other 20% I'm worried about. I can't seem to find an obvious vacuum leak, so I'm pulling the blower again this weekend. At least it's still fresh in my mind for the how-to and the coolant lines have been recently separated, so it should be pretty quick.

[Ford Prefect]

I'm about 80% sure. It's the other 20% I'm worried about. I can't seem to find an obvious vacuum leak, so I'm pulling the blower again this weekend. At least it's still fresh in my mind for the how-to and the coolant lines have been recently separated, so it should be pretty quick.

You might be able to actuate them by hand without pulling the SC. There is a lever on the front end of each.


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[rafalek]

Hey guys! Haven't been here in so long, but this thread is very relevant to my issues. Same check engine light codes but... on a 2008 R8. The shop I brought my car to has replaced a purge valve (037 906 283 C)0 and reset the codes. I drove the car for 10 miles and the light came back with same codes.

They are spending extra time troubleshooting the issue, but I am guessing it's related to the vacuum leak as well. Has anyone been able to locate that line on an R8? Where could it be?

[Silv3r]

My suggestion is to replace the one-side valve as the one below.

[rafalek]

Dzieki/Thank you! :)

Car is still at the shop and I forwarded this suggestion over. The whole issue seems really bizarre so hopefully that fixes it.

[Silv3r]

Powodzenia ;)

[Erick.Brenes]

Thanks. Turned out that the arm that open and closes the flap somehow got disconnected. Everything's working fine now.

Hello, I have the same problem and I suspect is the same reason. Would it be possible for you to take a picture of the arms? I need to take a look at that but I am honestly not sure what I am looking for.

thanks!

[Ford Prefect]

Hello, I have the same problem and I suspect is the same reason. Would it be possible for you to take a picture of the arms? I need to take a look at that but I am honestly not sure what I am looking for.

thanks!

Assuming you got this fixed? Let me know if you need a picture still. (Quote me so I get an email!)


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[Erick.Brenes]

Assuming you got this fixed? Let me know if you need a picture still. (Quote me so I get an email!)


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Hey man, thanks yes! I do need a picture please.
I have not fixed it this Saturday I will try to tackle this :)

[Ford Prefect]

Hey man, thanks yes! I do need a picture please.
I have not fixed it this Saturday I will try to tackle this :)

I’m actually out of town. Maybe @KRp220 or @awwturbo could snap a picture of the actuator arms for the flaps. I’ll check my photos too.


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