'08 A4 Quatro Oil Change

[SidewinderX]

Hey everyone,

I'm a recent owner of a 2008 A4 2.0T Quattro w/ tiptronic. I'd like to do my own oil changes, but from some quick googling it appears that it might be a pain if I have tiptronic paddle shifters (which I do). Unfortunately no one ever said exactly what made it so difficult... can anyone shed some light on it? Do I need any special tools? (besides the standard ones?) Any reason why I can't do it by myself?

Thanks!

[Ves]

idk why it would be different for those with paddle shifters, but here is a DIY for the 2.0t motor and i have a tip and its exactly the same

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...=2668848#23726

[SidewinderX]

Do you have the special tool to drain the oil out of the filter that they mention? If so, link/price? If not, is it a mess?

[Coderedpl]

Hey everyone,

I'm a recent owner of a 2008 A4 2.0T Quattro w/ tiptronic. I'd like to do my own oil changes, but from some quick googling it appears that it might be a pain if I have tiptronic paddle shifters (which I do). Unfortunately no one ever said exactly what made it so difficult... can anyone shed some light on it? Do I need any special tools? (besides the standard ones?) Any reason why I can't do it by myself?

Thanks!

No difference in changing the oil. Tiptronic, CVT, Manual, Quattro or FWD, it's all the same for changing engine oil.

Do you have the special tool to drain the oil out of the filter that they mention? If so, link/price? If not, is it a mess?

The special tool in question is the drain tube: (I actually have mine for sale ;) > http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/...in-tube&cat=22 )
http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filte...metalnerd.html

Some people also get the socket for unscrewing the filter housing:
http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filte...rd-mnsh36.html

To answer your question. What the drain tube does is drains the oil from the filter housing area, where the filter is in ADDITION to the oil you drain from the drain plug.
If you do not use the drain tube, there will be a mess, but not HUGE, it's just the way Audi placed the filter that pretty much makes the rest of the oil flow out once you loosen the housing enough, but you should definitely drain from drain plug first, then do filter.

I did many oil changes without the drain tube but to be honest, I always had to clean-up quite a bit afterwards. I changed it once with the drain tube before the car got totaled and the only mess I made was a small drop of oil from when I was pouring the old oil into the bottle.

I would suggest getting the drain tube. It will save a mess and actually speed things up.

[A-BlacK_MambA-4]

No difference in changing the oil. Tiptronic, CVT, Manual, Quattro or FWD, it's all the same for changing engine oil.


The special tool in question is the drain tube: (I actually have mine for sale ;) > http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/...in-tube&cat=22 )
http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filte...metalnerd.html

Some people also get the socket for unscrewing the filter housing:
http://www.europaparts.com/oil-filte...rd-mnsh36.html

To answer your question. What the drain tube does is drains the oil from the filter housing area, where the filter is in ADDITION to the oil you drain from the drain plug.
If you do not use the drain tube, there will be a mess, but not HUGE, it's just the way Audi placed the filter that pretty much makes the rest of the oil flow out once you loosen the housing enough, but you should definitely drain from drain plug first, then do filter.

I did many oil changes without the drain tube but to be honest, I always had to clean-up quite a bit afterwards. I changed it once with the drain tube before the car got totaled and the only mess I made was a small drop of oil from when I was pouring the old oil into the bottle.

I would suggest getting the drain tube. It will save a mess and actually speed things up.

All of that lol... I just changed mine before I left for vacation (06 Tip Quattro) and it took all of 30 minutes and the majority of that was to jack the car up. All the right tools makes the difference and will speed up the job. Also, check out Europaparts.com, that is where I order my kits everytime I'm due for a change. Their kits come with everything; oil, filter, drain plug and you can throw in a drain tool or buy Codered's :)

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

All of that lol... I just changed mine before I left for vacation (06 Tip Quattro) and it took all of 30 minutes and the majority of that was to jack the car up. All the right tools makes the difference and will speed up the job. Also, check out Europaparts.com, that is where I order my kits everytime I'm due for a change. Their kits come with everything; oil, filter, drain plug and you can throw in a drain tool or buy Codered's :)

Everything you would need is included in our kit.

[SidewinderX]

All of that lol... I just changed mine before I left for vacation (06 Tip Quattro) and it took all of 30 minutes and the majority of that was to jack the car up. All the right tools makes the difference and will speed up the job. Also, check out Europaparts.com, that is where I order my kits everytime I'm due for a change. Their kits come with everything; oil, filter, drain plug and you can throw in a drain tool or buy Codered's :)

Why do you need a new drain plug? And speaking of the drain plug, is it near the back of the oil pan? I'd rather drive the car up on ramps than jack it up if I can.

[freaksavior]

You actually don't need another plug, so don't order that.

The Socket for the filter makes life 100x easier.
SO get your oil,
your filter
your socket
your filter drain
Jacks or ramps
1-2 beers
30-45 min of your time.

One thing I have noticed which makes life a lot easier. There is a connector to the left of the filter. If you disconnect it (easiest to do it from the engine bay) then slide it off, you can remove the oil filter a lot easier.

[Inked]

I'm by far a mechanic. I'm the one who pays the guys who knows what they are doing to work on my stuff LOL(just ask phil ) but if you have the drain tool and oil housing socket it is a breeze. So if I can do it, you can to!!

[A-BlacK_MambA-4]

Why do you need a new drain plug? And speaking of the drain plug, is it near the back of the oil pan? I'd rather drive the car up on ramps than jack it up if I can.

Not saying you need a new one, but after cranking on it eventually it will round off and possibly hurt the threads so why not replace it with a new one each time. Plus they're .95 cents and the kit is already configured to include one.

[SidewinderX]

Well, it's $0.95 if I buy that kit, but between the Advance Auto and the AutoZone across the street from each other, I can usually find 5 Qts of full syn oil for $25-30 and not have to worry about shipping. Although I'll probably invest in the drain line at least. Also, is the oil filter socket unique to Audi? Or will the filter removal tool my roommate has for his Tacoma fit?

[Stewy]

I didn't bother buying the drain tool. It does make life a little easier, but it can definitely be done without it. I just rig up a funnel and hose routed into my catch pan, and then push in the bleeder valve with a small, flat-head screwdriver.

[freaksavior]

I didn't bother buying the drain tool. It does make life a little easier, but it can definitely be done without it. I just rig up a funnel and hose routed into my catch pan, and then push in the bleeder valve with a small, flat-head screwdriver.

Doing it this way, how long does it usually take you? I changed my oil in under 30 minutes start to finish me being slow cleaning my hands often when I got oil on them doing an oil change :P

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

With our OIL CHANGE KITS you have the option of the following oils.



Lubro Moly Synthoil Premium 5W40
Pento High Performance II 5W40
Total Quartz 9000 Energy 5W40
Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 Engine Oil
Motul Specific 505.01 502.00 505.00 5W40 Engine Oil

You also have the option of adding additional oil change components such as...

Oil Filter
Oil Drain Plug*
Oil Drain Plug Kit (14mm)
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Kit (14mm)
Oil Change Tools
Oil Filter Housing Drain Tube
Oil Filter Socket (36mm)
Engine Cleaner
Lubro Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush (500 ml)
Motul Engine Clean Auto (300 ml)

Hope this makes everything a little easier

[Homer]

Not saying you need a new one, but after cranking on it eventually it will round off and possibly hurt the threads so why not replace it with a new one each time. Plus they're .95 cents and the kit is already configured to include one.

If you manage to round off a bolt head after repeated use, you are doing something wrong.
The real reason for replacing the plug is to replace the aluminum crush washer. It's captured on the plug so you can't just change the washer.

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

If you manage to round off a bolt head after repeated use, you are doing something wrong.
The real reason for replacing the plug is to replace the aluminum crush washer. It's captured on the plug so you can't just change the washer.

This is true. We also carry the magnetic oil drain plug which comes with 10 washers.

[Brillo]

Since Hugh from Europarts brought up the subject of magnetic oil drain plug I'm wondering if anyone finds anything on the magnet during their regular oil change.
I have used one since my first oil change and find only the slightest bit of ultra-fine particles which is nothing more than a black smug on the cloth I use to clean it off. I've been using Amsoil starting at 4000 miles and change at about 8000 to 9000 miles. Oil analyses at Blackstone Labs have been excellent, and fuel pump cam follower at 40,000 miles was almost new.
I broke the car in hard from new and burn about a 1/2 quart during the 8000 mile interval. Agree that the oil drain plug should last the life of the engine but I do use a new copper crush washer at each oil change. Brillo

[naiku]

I didn't bother buying the drain tool. It does make life a little easier, but it can definitely be done without it. I just rig up a funnel and hose routed into my catch pan, and then push in the bleeder valve with a small, flat-head screwdriver.

That's the way I do it as well, tried about 3 different ways before I found a long thin funnel that routes it down into the drain pan. Takes me about 30 minutes to complete an oil change.

Since Hugh from Europarts brought up the subject of magnetic oil drain plug I'm wondering if anyone finds anything on the magnet during their regular oil change.

Typically I find much the same thing as you do, really fine black particles that can just be wiped off on a cloth. As far as I know nothing out of the ordinary.

[CorneliusRox]

I find deals at oil change places for cheaper than i can buy the stuff. Plus I dont have to get rid of the oil afterwards. It is definitely nice.

[delslo323]

this is what you need: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4-...ools/ES240945/
A 36mm socket. Don't waste your money on the oil drain tool. Saw somewhere (maybe this forum) that if you don't want the mess, just put a plastic bag over the filter housing once it's loosened to take it off. This way the oil doesn't leak everywhere.

Now...why the oil filter housing sits at an autistic 45degrees underneath the engine when BMW can engineer one to sit on top of the engine bay is beyond me.

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

The 36mm socket is needed. We have them at a fraction of the price others are selling them for.

[IndianDrives]

It makes life a little easier, but it can certainly be done without. I just drill a funnel and a tube inserted into my recycling bin, and drag in the bleed valve with a small screwdriver.

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

It makes life a little easier, but it can certainly be done without. I just drill a funnel and a tube inserted into my recycling bin, and drag in the bleed valve with a small screwdriver.

This is true...
This is the oil filter housing drain tube in case anyone was unfamiliar with it.

[SidewinderX]

Dragging this thread up from the dead...

So it's been about 5500 miles and I'm about to do my next oil change. I used (well, tried to use) the oil filter drain tool the last time and drained *some* of the oil from the housing before I opened it up. When I opened it I quickly realized that, no, I hadn't drained that much oil from the housing (as it went spraying all over the place and was plenty of fun to clean up). Did I just not screw the tool in far enough? Or is there something other step I missed?

Thanks!

[Charles.waite]

Dragging this thread up from the dead...

So it's been about 5500 miles and I'm about to do my next oil change. I used (well, tried to use) the oil filter drain tool the last time and drained *some* of the oil from the housing before I opened it up. When I opened it I quickly realized that, no, I hadn't drained that much oil from the housing (as it went spraying all over the place and was plenty of fun to clean up). Did I just not screw the tool in far enough? Or is there something other step I missed?

Thanks!

Did you remove the oil cap before you drained it? I forgot to do that and it came out really slowly. If its draining though it should be draining all the way. Given the angle, the oil should pool in the bottom. Once it stops coming out of the drain tube it the filter housing should be fully drained...

[SidewinderX]

Did you remove the oil cap before you drained it? I forgot to do that and it came out really slowly. If its draining though it should be draining all the way. Given the angle, the oil should pool in the bottom. Once it stops coming out of the drain tube it the filter housing should be fully drained...

The main oil cap on top of the engine? Or is there some other oil cap on the filter somewhere?

[GA42.0T]

The main oil cap on top of the engine? Or is there some other oil cap on the filter somewhere?

Yup, that one. Remove the oil fill cap on top of the valve cover. This relieves the pressure/vacume and allows the oil to flow right on out the bottom.

Edit: Car should of course be turned off.

Another DIY
http://www.audiction.com/audi-mainte...0t-oil-change/

[JPT]

make sure the oil is warm. This helps thin it a bit.

[Charles.waite]

make sure the oil is warm. This helps thin it a bit.

Yea. Either idle for 5 minutes, or just drive around the block (quicker/easier) and then just pull straight onto some ramps. Easy peasy. The oil pan will be slightly warm to the touch, but shouldn't burn you or anything. When the oil is warmish, it drains much easier.

And yes, be sure to first remove the oil cap on the top of the valve cover otherwise it will glug coming out the oil drain hole and get everywhere. And then when you realize the mistake and take off the oil cap when the plug is already off, the oil shoots everywhere and gets oil all over your driveway. Ask me how I know...

[SidewinderX]

make sure the oil is warm. This helps thin it a bit.

I think this was the key -- did it yesterday afterwork after just getting home (only an 8min drive, but it was hot out!). I made sure I screwed the drain fitting all the way in and it came out nice an easy... no minor enviromental disaster this time!

Btw, the oil change was about 100x quicker this time around... amazing what a little bit of experience does!

Also did the air filter and cabin air at the same time... spark plugs today or tomorrow and I'm done with the 55k service!