HELP ! BATTERY DIED NOW WARNING LIGHTS APPEAR!

[LuvMyVAG]

My battery recently went dead due to my blonde moment of leaving my key in the 'on' position after putting my windows up. I jumped it and the battery has been fine since. BUT when it made my airbag light show up. I drove it around a bit and it didn't go off, I searched the issue and found others who suggested to disconnect the battery. I did that and now not only is my airbag light still on but my damn traction control light is too !! I've spent all night searching forums again to no avail. Please share your knowledge, experiences or ideas so hopefully I don't end up having to go to my local Audi Stealership! Thanks all !!

[Jay-Bee]

Get it scanned for codes if possible.

Or drive it for a bit and see what happens, the system does different checks during drive cycles, they could go away.

[Tanner]

ESP light will disappear once the battery has enough juice. If it doesn't go off then the battery is probably shot. Airbag light - never had that one appear when I drained the battery.

If the battery you drained is the original battery that came with the car, I'd suggest replacing it. It's at the age where a full drain will usually be the death of the battery. I did that and just picked up a battery from the local dealership since it wasn't much more if any compared to the one from Costco and installed it myself.

[CorneliusRox]

btw, pulling the terminals shouldnt do anything on our cars like it used to on older cars. We have flash memory (basically a solid state hd). They are probably just acting up because your battery is dying. What they said ^^

[jimrobbington]

Esp will go off, that always happens. Never had the airbag light come on

[Scott Evil]

The airbag codes must be cleared manually--they will not reset themselves. Assuming there are no problems with the sensors, etc. Anyone with VCDS can clear it for you. If there is a problem, the code can not be cleared until repairs are made.

While you are at, have VCDS monitor measuring block 04 for voltage when you crank the engine. If it is crashing, your battery does need to be replaced.

[Cherub]

Just brought the car in for the 35k and was told my battery failed the test. Prepare yourselves for this one, $260.00 for a new battery including tax or $160.00 to clear all codes if taken somewhere else and they replace the battery the wrong way. Wow Audi dealerships LMAO

[Tanner]

Don't need to clear any codes. yes there's one stored about the battery power but it's harmless and doesn't throw a CEL. $260 for a new battery sounds like a rip off... mind you the battery for the 3.2 is a bit bigger than the 2.0T as one for the 2.0T maybe took out $130 out of my pocket.

[CorneliusRox]

I run 2 red top optima's in my truck (a little higher cca then out 915's) and I plan on throwing one in the car when I need it. They are awesome for cold starts (grid/intake heaters in the truck) and not bad for audio (L7 15" in my truck).

[Cherub]

Don't need to clear any codes. yes there's one stored about the battery power but it's harmless and doesn't throw a CEL. $260 for a new battery sounds like a rip off... mind you the battery for the 3.2 is a bit bigger than the 2.0T as one for the 2.0T maybe took out $130 out of my pocket.

I figured the codes "reasons" he gave was somewhat pointing towards the BS flag pole and estimated no more than $150, but you know how dealerships are.

I run 2 red top optima's in my truck (a little higher cca then out 915's) and I plan on throwing one in the car when I need it. They are awesome for cold starts (grid/intake heaters in the truck) and not bad for audio (L7 15" in my truck).

I was thinking of running a Red Top as well. Just have to get some info on them. Thanks

[Scott Evil]

Don't need to clear any codes. yes there's one stored about the battery power but it's harmless and doesn't throw a CEL. $260 for a new battery sounds like a rip off... mind you the battery for the 3.2 is a bit bigger than the 2.0T as one for the 2.0T maybe took out $130 out of my pocket.

Same price I paid at NAPA.

[fly300kts]

This procedure details how to perform the zero position calibration for the Steering Angle Sensor (G85) in many VW/Audi vehicles equipped with ESP (Electronic Stability Program).


There are certain test conditions that must be met before doing this procedure:

*

Start the vehicle.
*

Turn the steering wheel one turn to the right and one turn to the left.
*

Drive in a short distance straight line on a level surface at a speed not higher than 20 km/h.
*

If the steering wheel is straight during the test drive then stop the vehicle with the wheels pointed straight
*

Ensure that the steering wheel is not moved again.
*

Keep the engine running and do not switch off the ignition.

Procedure for performing the zero position calibration for the Steering Angle Sensor (G85) on VW Golf, GTI, Jetta, and Audi TT:

[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Login - 11]
Enter 40168
[Do It!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 060 (do NOT scroll up and down in the Basic Settings function, type in 060 instead)
[Go!]

This will store the zero (centered) position of the steering wheel. There should be a displayed message that reads: "Steer. angle sender compens OK". If you get an error, it may mean the Login was not successfully performed.

Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.

Procedure for performing the zero position calibration for the Steering Angle Sensor (G85) on VW Passat and Audi A4/S4, A6/S6, and A8/S8:

[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Login - 11]
Enter 40168
[Do It!]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]

This will store the zero (centered) position of the steering wheel. There should be a displayed message that reads: "Steer. angle sender compens OK". If you get an error, it may mean the Login was not successfully performed.

Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.