DIY: front CV axle replacement

[ArcticDRIVER]

I think there must be a difference between the wide body/allroad cars and the non-wide body. With people on both sides saying it's easy or there's not enough room that must be the case. My 2.7 allroad was a breeze with no pinch bolts or control arm bolts needing to be removed and just enough space to get the old axle out and the new one in.

Its been discussed before...you are correct it has to do with the wider allroad as well as the geometry of the taller suspension. Is that photo from "Planes, Trains & Automobiles"? I am going to a midnight show this weekend! Love it.

[flir67]

very nice write up, thanks!

[haygood]

I got axles from Marty, at Raxles.com a year ago. Still good. He will only accept OEM axle shafts as cores, and has a lifetime warranty. I haven't heard of anyone needing to take him up on the warranty though. OEM quality, at least.
Don't turn in an OEM axle as a core to some random parts store. He'll pay for cores for some cars, even if you aren't buying from him, but they have to be OEM's not crappy replacement shafts.

[Zachariah]

Just did the passenger side CV axle, with beefier RS4 axle. Guys - this job is a piece of cake.....once you take the time to remove the CV boot heat shield(three 6mm Allen heads). Stick a flat head screwdriver into the front rotor hole and freely turn/lock the wheel in neutral, completely without an assistant. Use a 3ft + breaker bar to get that final 180deg turn on the 17mm axle bolt and it's DONE!!!

[rollerton]

Its been discussed before...you are correct it has to do with the wider allroad as well as the geometry of the taller suspension. Is that photo from "Planes, Trains & Automobiles"? I am going to a midnight show this weekend! Love it.

Sorry but nope. I've done axles on everything from a B5 Passat, B5 A4/S4, regular C5 A6, B6 A4 and will have to do one on my S6 soon. Never had one single bit of trouble removing the axle with all the suspension in place.
On my old B6 A4 I had the swap done in a little over 30 minutes. It's just a matter of knowing it can be done and going about it logically.

[staypuft]

Does anyone have the part number for the 6 inner CV bolts?

[ArcticDRIVER]

Sorry but nope. It's just a matter of knowing it can be done and going about it logically.

Mr. rollerton, so because you have not experienced this issue then you consider it impossible? And you give yourself credit for logical thought?

As I indicated previously, I have an allroad and I did not experience any issue, in fact, I finished it in 15 minutes. Twice as fast as you ;-)

Several threads have discussed removal/install issues on various platforms so perhaps you would be better off responding to them specifically. As for the allroad, I have not read it being an issue for others nor for myself and the concensus has been due to suspension geometry.

Cheers

[Sparkstack]

Does anyone have the part number for the 6 inner CV bolts?

N-904-411-03 is the part number for the S6 ones. Suspect they are all the same.

[lucio_liu]

N-904-411-03 is the part number for the S6 ones. Suspect they are all the same.

yes, I bought these bolts but after I remove the old ones I found the they are fairly good, so I reuse them. but it always good idea to have some of these on hand. 10mm triple square socket and long long extension are needed, remove by hand tool so you can never strip it.

[jvic21]

Noob question will ride height have any effect on clearance, attempted this on a 02 2.7t tip and failed miserably, only solution I see is to drop control arms, will attempt to remove shock to get that extra little bit I need

[Sparkstack]

attempted this on a 02 2.7t tip and failed miserably, only solution I see is to drop control arms

General consensus appears to be that its a piece o cake on the 4.2, but a pain in the ass on the 2.7t.

Either pull the pinch bolt (good luck with that btw) or smack loose the ball joints on the lower control arms and remove them to allow the hub carrier to move out the way.

[elyoung34]

So just to add my feedback.

Did a front left axle install on my 2.7L yesterday and I have to say it wasn't that bad, overall took me about an 1 hour.

1. Loosen axle bolt
2. Loosen lug nuts
3. Lifted car
4. Removed wheel and took off axle bolt
5. Turned wheel all the way to pass side and locked it
6. Took off 3 shield bolts with 6mm Hex
7. Took off 6 Triple square bolts with #10 triple square socket
8. Axle didn't exactly fall out but it did come out with some maneuvering
9. Reverse order

Bottom line, you do not have to remove the pinch bolt or undo the control arms to replace an axle on a 2.7

[maitai]

I am joining in as one that can't get the new axle in on a B6 quattro passenger side. Old one came out when turning the wheel to the left. Part number is 8E0407272AH - at least that is what is on the box but no marking on the axle to verify. I notice it is about 1/2 inch longer than the one removed and that is my problem - just need about 1/8 inch more clearance. Do some of the aftermarket axles come in different sizes? Should they all be exactly the same? Anyone know the specified length for that part? This is driving me crazy as I don't want to get into the pinch bolts...

[Sparkstack]

I notice it is about 1/2 inch longer than the one removed and that is my problem

On the S6, they are unequal length. I want to say passenger side is shorter. Same may apply on yours so perhaps you have the wrong side?

[rollerton]

I am joining in as one that can't get the new axle in on a B6 quattro passenger side. Old one came out when turning the wheel to the left. Part number is 8E0407272AH -

He says he's working on a B6, so the "8E0" part# seems right. The 1/2" ain't enough to make a fuss about- if 1/2" is holding you up then ...not sure what to say. Usually when I do these It looks like I will get stuck by 2-3" but I always manage to sneak it through. I usually get that extra bit by maneuvering the inner end of the axle UP or more one way or another. Get the outer CV into the hub and then swing the inner CV down to the flange.
Same on a B6.A4.

[sharpstyx]

I have a 2004 C5 A6 Quattro /w tip. I got the passenger side done, took about 5 hours. It took me about 30 mins jack the car up and get it on stands and get all the parts loose. 1 hour to get the old shaft out, 3 hours to get the new one in. 30 mins to put everything back together. The driver side however makes that seems like a breeze. I'm still adhering to this notion

In the writeup I said to turn the wheel full lock to the opposite side of where your working. This is so you can get the axle out without touching the pinch bolt. If you pull the outer CV all the way to one side you can get the axle out. There's JUST enough room, but it's very doable.

I should also say that i'm stuck trying to get the new shaft in. It just seems like the outer cv doesn't bend far enough to get the splines in the hub.
Having said that, i just wanted to say this is an excellent write up. I finally registered because of it.

[maitai]

Thanks for all the replies. I tried every different angle but could not get it in. I also had my local shop order another aftermarket make and it was the same length. I ended up taking off the upper control arms which i had seen in a write up for the B7. I got lucky and they came apart pretty easy - soaked them in PB and some tapping. I am thinking that the aftermarket axle comes a bit longer whereas the factory one can fit in without taking apart the control arms.

[02A63.0Q]

Just did this over the weekend on the front pass side of an 02 c5 a6 3.0 Quattro - not sure if that's the same width as a 2.7, but it's narrower than a 4.2.

Definitely needed to remove the heat shield. If you're like me and strip the 6MM allen heat shield cap bolt, you can use a t40 torx to remove it. Apparently torx work great for removing stripped allen bolts. Also-apparently the last time these were changed they really torqued those heat shield cap bolts on (#$%*!). I didn't have a helper, but sticking a screwdriver in the rotor against the caliper helped me keep the hub from spinning when tightening or loosening the bolts.

I found that this helped me remove the axle once everything was loosened: at only 1/2 lock on the wheels, the angle of the axle to the spline was not so severe as at full lock, which allowed me to position the inner end of the axle in the free space to the front of the inner joint. I couldn't do this at full lock. Once in that position, i turned to full lock. I used the old axle bolt, still partially threaded, and a hammer to tap out the spline from the hub, then something longer to push the face of the axle fully out.

reassembly was obviously the opposite, first at full lock, I positioned the inner end in the free space ahead of the joint, and the splined end generally in the vicinity of the hub (with a screwdriver through the hub to hold it). Then, back to half lock while using the screwdriver to line up the splines. then everything just popped into place. I partially installed the new axle bolt and pushed it by hand to help seat the inner joint before bolting everything down. This alleviated the situation of the outer end not being flexible enough to accommodate that extraction/insertion angle at full lock.

in my research, i've noted other sites that said that if the torque spec required an additional turn (e.g. 90 deg, or 180 deg) that you've probably got a torque to yield (TTY) bolt that deforms under the additional turn to ensure a tighter fit. some people claimed that you could reuse the old axle bolt, but since my axle already came with a new replacement, i pitched the old one (hence using it to hit with a hammer, I did no such thing with the new one). Over time the plasticity of the TTY bolt changes and you've no longer got a secure connection.

[ara544]

Can you tell me the torque specs?

[A_CANADIAN_EH]

I have a 1998 Audi A4 B5, I didnt remove the heatshield. Instead I put a jack under neath the hub and jacked it up to give myself enough room to slide the inner flange side of the axle up, with the wheel hub and whole suspension jacked as high as I could get it, I had about half an inch between the tranny and the inner flange side of the axle to play with. I had trouble with the gasket not holding its place and sliding down and blocking off the bolt holes, but asides that it went well. Jacking it up also made the spline go in far easier too. I have a sport suspension, I do not know if anyone else has done it on the sport suspension, but jacking up really made the difference in my case.

[sobyx1]

This is a great writeup and will attempt to do it on my Allroad as soon as I get those 12 point socket tools. Hopefully I can squeeze the axle out without removing the pinch bolts, as it is just extra work and time.

Update:could get axle off but not without removing pinch bolts. Couldn't remove heat shield so didn't try that approach. On driver side just had to turn the wheel opposite side and work that axle in there, pushing and shoving until enough force cleared the axle back on the wheel. Removing axle was far easier somehow, probably bc the boot was broken.

[ben0069]

I may be wrong but are your rotors on the wrong sides?
That is for gumby by the way original poster.

[Papa_Dios]

Started working on this today. Going to attempt to get these axles out without removing the pinch bolt on my B5 S4

[Bigslim76]

I CAN NOT GET THE FRIGGIN CV SHEILD OFF!!!

Can't get the axle out with it on(drivers side).

Damn, those 3 Allen bolts are on so damn tight. Three hours of BP blaster didn't even help.

The problem I think I'm having is that the 6mm hex head socket doesn't seem to be seating inside the head of the bolt completely. YES I CLEANED OUT THE HEAD OF THE BOLT! Every time I start putting pressure on the wrench I can see that it's starting to strip the inside of the bolt. Even bought a fresh 6mm Allen socket. I can't get strait on the bolt because my extension hits the lip of the inner fender well. The head of that Allen bolt is so damn shallow too.

Thought I might try and find a really long 6mm hex socket to see if I can get on at a straiter angle.

Any other suggestions?????

[dootie]

can anyone chime in and give me all the torque specs of the bolts?

greatly appreciated - about to tackle the outer cv boots soon

[Brandon002]

FOr those of you that don't want to mess with the pinch bolt, unbolt the rear lower control arm where it attaches to the frame, drop the subframe slightly to get the bolt out. Once the lower rear control arm is loose you have room for days to get the old axle out and the new one in.


If you're able to get axles in and out without removing the pinch bolt or dropping a control arm buy a lottery ticket. I've done probably 50 axles on 2.7T audis and only once was I able to remove and install an axle without these extra steps. That was on a car with SEVERELY worn suspension bushings.

[Brandon002]

The triple square inner CV bolts are 57 foot pounds
Axle nut is 90 foot pounds plus 180 degree turn after torquing.

[Papa_Dios]

Use a jack to raise the hub up and it makes axle removal a breeze.

[Arsenal2012]

Hello all, I've been reading this thread and watching videos about changing the CV axle.
All of the comments about trouble is making me nervous since every single job I have done so far on my vehicle has been a nightmare and taking about 2-3 times longer than I have expected.
Cam sensor, expectation 45min, Reality 2.5hrs and a trip to autozone because I broke a vacuum hose tee
Rear Brakes, expectation 1.5hrs, Reality 5hrs and a trip to autozone because a bolt head stripped
About the only thing that has gone smooth is my oil change, air filter change and cabin filter change.

So anyway, just a few questions regarding a C5 2.8L 30v Avant A6 Quattro
1. Torque, is it 90 or 140 ft-lbs, im guessing 140
2. Im doing the driver side, my understanding is there is no heat shield but a splash cover, is that correct?

If anyone has any other tips which have not already been listed or has experience with the 2.8. PLMK

Thanks!

[AaronNY]

There should be some kind of splash guard/ heat shield.

Now I bought empi axles and both boots ripped within a month. Apart from dealer, between ecs tuning, fcp euro and gap. These were the more expensive option. Had to buy another set so I could replace them and send old ones back to rock auto for a refund on one set for the 1 year warranty. I had my buddy scrap my old axles didn't think to save them because they were rebooted twice and they ripped twice for no reason ( hardly lowered nothing hitting the axle or boot). And now I see they raxles.com pays for the cores. I guess I'm stuck buying oem axles after the empi ones break again. And rock auto can't replace them because I think I got the last driver side and they said empi was out of business

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[arjun90]

Seems like there is quite the variation between the OE and Aftermarket. Excellent write-up, hopefully this is applicable to the 3.0L A6 C5 Avant as well.

There should be some kind of splash guard/ heat shield.

Now I bought empi axles and both boots ripped within a month. Apart from dealer, between ecs tuning, fcp euro and gap. These were the more expensive option. Had to buy another set so I could replace them and send old ones back to rock auto for a refund on one set for the 1 year warranty. I had my buddy scrap my old axles didn't think to save them because they were rebooted twice and they ripped twice for no reason ( hardly lowered nothing hitting the axle or boot). And now I see they raxles.com pays for the cores. I guess I'm stuck buying oem axles after the empi ones break again. And rock auto can't replace them because I think I got the last driver side and they said empi was out of business

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Arsenal2012]

Just wanted to update you guys as I completed this on my driver side (C5 Audi Avant A6 2.8L Quattro) today and yes there was a heat shield with three 6mm bolts.
Anyway I did not take detailed in depth photos as there are plenty of how to do threads, but I did take 2 photos, one which I consider GOLD and another to compare the bad and the new.


FYI I installed the RockAuto Cardone Select CV Axles(hope they hold up for awhile), which coincidentally has a 19mm hex nut and not the standard 17mm as OE.



Here is the first picture that I want to share since this is the main issue I had, I could not get the original CV Axle out with the wheel at full turn position, so you could and should try coming back some, it worked for me and should for you, here is the position I had it in that worked for me, sorry it probably is not a great pic but its all I got...



TIP:
Have at least two 6" extensions and make sure you have one that is the swivel kind or at the very least a swivel ratchet which is all I had!








Here is the bad CV Axle next to the new CV Axle that was installed. I just need to find a reputable Axle Rebuilder in my area to get my old one back to snuff so I can have it waiting in the wings....

[MacFady]

Necro bump here, but I've had three different axle bolts for car, twice purchased individually from VW and most recently one came with the new axle, all three took a 3/4" hex. Not sure why but it definitely was 3/4, 17mm would have stripped the bolt. Just thought I'd mention my experience, obviously check fitment carefully.

[PaperToast]

Necro bump here, but I've had three different axle bolts for car, twice purchased individually from VW and most recently one came with the new axle, all three took a 3/4" hex. Not sure why but it definitely was 3/4, 17mm would have stripped the bolt. Just thought I'd mention my experience, obviously check fitment carefully.

hmm thats strange because the oem bolt from the factory is a 17mm allen

[buelldozer]

Just did this on an '02 A6 and it went smoothly. You don't have to lift the other side of the car either, just put the trans in neutral and you can use the brake rotor to spin the shaft and get to the bolts.

The factory CV used a 17mm Hex and the replacement used a 27mm nut.

I did remove the 3 6mm Hex holding the heat shield and took it out of the way, then moved the wheel slightly for some extra space.

[heydudeitsdevin]

Hey guys, I just had to do a similar job on my '96 B5 A4 with the 2.8L 12v. My front driver's side axle went on me after a highway trip to Richmond, VA. I got the new axle all bolted up and replaced, however, now none of the wheels will move. I can't even push the freaking thing, and when I lift all four wheels off the ground, they won't budge. I took it to a mechanic and he said that it may be a tranny problem, but I wasn't sure if any of you had experienced similar circumstances? Any help on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

My top culprits are currently:
1. A bad/locked differential (either front, center or rear)
2. Bad Transmission
3. The new axle is a bad axle

[moyenecorniche]

You've posted in the C4/C5 A6 S6 RS6 allroad section, you should post in the B5 section, the axles are different and there should be much more threads on your problem solving GL.

[heydudeitsdevin]

Okay thanks!

[shrike]

Used elyoung34 way did drivers side (first time) in 3h yesterday to remove all then 1 hour extra to put it back together .I am looking for torque specs for the heat shield now ,so in prob. 1 hour to torque it all back to spec.
Then other side removal and install , new one aswell got them axles from Raxles.(www.raxles.com).I'm sending oem axles back (150.000 miles) (4 broken/cracked boots ) so I don't get core charge extra (200+ $) . Came with prepaid ups everything.(boxes,labels,nearest ups station etc.). I made the mistake of not asking for 17 hex ,because I read somewhere Mary from raxles will ship tools aswell. I wound up looking in 6 stores before I found one or had to wait 3 days to get from Napa (partnr 615317),10mm triple bit (2305) i had and 6mm allen aswell for heatshield.I gave up install new one yesterday ,because I have only one functioning arm, had to ask my wife for help today.I did look at about 10 video's prior to my attempt and read a bunch of DIY"s. The car is 2004 allroad automatique 2.7 t. I guess I'm buying 2 lottery tickets tommorrow.

[Audibot]

About to do this on my C5 in the next couple days. Looking forward to it. Seems about the same as my B7, so that's nice.