DIY: front CV axle replacement

[Gumby]

WARNING: the following is an informational article, and in no way am I responsible for any damage you cause to your vehicle from following this.

ok, so this isn't a super detailed article but it should serve as a decent reference for someone that wants to tackle replacing their own axle. i didn't have any torque specs in front of me, so you will need to look those up before you attempt this. this was my first time replacing an axle, so if you would like to add anything to this feel free to chime in, and i'll add it to the article in the tech section.


tools needed:
(not all are required, or necessarily correct but it's what i used)

17mm lug wrench
jack
jack stands
17mm allen socket
1/2" 6" extension
1/2" breaker bar, or long ratchet
3/8 ratchet
V-10 12 point socket
assortment of various length extensions



the V-10 12 point socket is the only "special tool" required for this job. here's a (terrible) picture in case you don't know what it looks like.



ok, now the first thing your going to want to do is remove your center cap and loosen the axle retaining bolt using a 17mm allen socket, and a breaker bar. if you attempt to do this after the wheel is off the ground it might spin the axle instead.

you may need to use a pipe to extend the length of your breaker bar if this is the first time the axle bolt has been removed. before you go reffing on the bolt though, it would be a good idea to tap the allen socket with a mallet to make sure it's seated in the bolt all the way. YOU DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THIS BOLT!





after you have the axle bolt loose, go ahead and jack up the side your changing the axle on and remove the wheel. turn your wheel away from which ever side your changing. so if your doing the passenger side turn your wheel all the way to the left. this is so you can get the axle out later without removing the pinch bolt. oh, and make sure you use a jack stand for safety.



a little evidence that the inner CV is shot... shooting grease all over my suspension.



go ahead and finish removing the axle retaining bolt.



there are six V-10 12 point bolts holding the inner cv flange to the transmission. I positioned the axle so i could remove three bolts at a time. after the fist three were out, i jacked the other front tire off the ground and spun the axle so i could get at the remaining three.



after you wrestle the inner flange bolts out the axle is free from the car. slide the outer cv joint out of the wheel bearing assembly, and carefully sneak out the axle.



side by side of the new axle, and the old floppy worn out axle.



assemble your axle in reverse order and your all set!



now go enjoy your new, noise free, vibration free car

[beemercer]

Very nice writeup, I need to do both my fronts soon. The axle bolt is a bitch, already claimed one craftsman socket for me lol

[VJ's A6]

Awesome write Matt..

[VJ's A6]

Very nice writeup, I need to do both my fronts soon. The axle bolt is a bitch, already claimed one craftsman socket for me lol

Craftsman have lifetime replacement warranty.. right??

[Castor Troy]

Craftsman have lifetime replacement warranty.. right??

not anymore

[martianbooby]

awesome write up! thank you...
i was supposed to change my outer cv days ago but havent got to it. hoping to begin today but it seems that doing the whole axle is so much easier im thinking i should of went that route...

Very nice writeup, I need to do both my fronts soon. The axle bolt is a bitch, already claimed one craftsman socket for me lol

interesting i loosened it many times before in about 10 seconds... all it took is a 5 feet long metal pipe on top of my wrench and it turns like it was coated with butter

[gaumisa]

not anymore

they still do. Just need to find the right people.

[pohsib]

What axle did you replace your old ones with? OEM?

[Gumby]

Thanks guys, I'll look up the torque specs tonight when I get home and add them to the write up.

What axle did you replace your old ones with? OEM?

I wish I could have got an OEM unit, but they're almost $350!

I got an EMPI axle from JHM instead. I looked into replacing just the inner cv, but the price vs a new axle wasn't worth it. I would have liked to use an OEM axle, but I'm not putting down enough power for it to matter too much.

[allroad-drvr]

Great write up...
didn't realize some Sears weren't replacing craftsman tools...learned two things in this thread!

[estomax]

how did you get the axle out without taking the pinch bolt out of the upper control arms and pulling the upright out a bit? or did you do that too?

[Gumby]

In the writeup I said to turn the wheel full lock to the opposite side of where your working. This is so you can get the axle out without touching the pinch bolt. If you pull the outer CV all the way to one side you can get the axle out. There's JUST enough room, but it's very doable.

[Vinchenzo51]

Thank you for this Matt! I'm going to do both of mine before this winter season. Im glad I don't need to pay someone to do this, this looks simple.

[EngineGuy]

The socket he calls a V10 is also called a tripple square socket.

Common Audi and VW sizes are 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, and in some cases 16mm.

Here is a listing of there general uses for many german vehicles
Applications
FTSM6E (6mm, 3/8" drive) - Various applications on European vehicles.
FTSM8E (8mm, 3/8" drive) - Remove and install head and accessory bolts on Mercedes, and remove and install axle shaft bolts on VW and Audi’s.
FTSM10E (10mm, 3/8" drive) - Used for cylinder head bolts and drive shaft bolts on Mercedes, and remove and install cylinder head bolts on VW and Audi’s.
STSM12E (12mm, 1/2" drive) - Remove and install cylinder head bolts on Mercedes, rear toe adjustment on 1999 and newer Audi A6, and axle shaft bolts on new VW’s.
STSM14E (14mm, 1/2" drive) - Used for 2003 and later VW Touareg front axle bots, 2003 and later Porsche Cayenne front axle boots, various Audi/VW axle boots, plus Audi TT differential mount bolts and transmission drain plug.
STSM16E (16mm, 1/2" drive) - Used for Audi TT clutch and belly pan, various Audi / VW transmission drain plugs, 2003 and later VW Touareg / Porsche Cayenne brake caliper bolts, Detroit Diesel’s flywheel bolts and front crank pullers on 900 and 4000 engine plus head bolts on 900 engine.

Triple square bit applications are for European vehicles and double hex bit applications are for Asian vehicles. A triple square bit will strip the head bolt of an Asian vehicle.

[audifirst]

keep us posted, don't sell you original axle, repair it put new boot and wait , the EMPI axles don't last too long, if you start having weird vibrations , or noises , then you re-install the original back..

[Audi2.7what]

I'm doing the six swap rite now on mine, damn are those bolts a bitch i have a 750 lb gun it wouldn't even move no shit. I'll Crack the bar out tommorow.

[Michael B]

My aftermarket axle lasted 2 1/2 weeks. I have another one order right now. Car vibrates so bad on launch it vibrated the one filling in my mouth loose.....

[Machupo]

I have to give you applause for getting the old axles out without removing the upper bolts (I had to after yanking on the loose axle for a good 30 minutes) ** new ones went in very easily, though! And to add insult to injury, in order to do that, had to use wedge forks to get the upper control arms out... adios bushings :(

[Audi0s]

If you take the axle shield off, 3 6mm allen bolts, it clears up a lot of room. Pull the inner flange off and push up, slide axle out of hub. No nightmares with the pinch, those can wait for upper arms :)

[Machupo]

that would have been so much easier :/

DOH!

[Machupo]

ok, just finished the other side ** quite a bit easier upon removal of the axle shield, no connecting arm removal required.

Couple other tips for the uninitiated:
- Lock the steering far opposite to get the old axles out, but once you have the new ones in place (not screwed in), unlock it ** makes getting the axle splines into the hub super easy
- Generic size info (consolidated from other parts of this thread): Lug nuts: 17mm socket, axle bolt: 17mm allen (hex), inner flange bolts: M10 triple square, and axle shield: 6mm hex socket

Great write-up! Definitely needs to be a DIY sticky!

[Gumby]

^ it's actually in the tech section already.

thanks everyone for adding their tips and experiences to this

i should probably add that if anyone is doing this procedure, and they have someone there to give them a hand. you can jack up both sides of the car, and have the second person hold the brakes while you loosen the bolts. i just like to write DIY's under the assumption that someone is doing the work by themselves.

[dualaudi]

Did you need to pack the new cv with grease?

[Machupo]

My EMPI axles came pre-packed, just had to pop the cap off the end prior to screwing in the axle bolt.

I'm going to rebuild the OEM axles and keep them on hand ** should be a fun time.

[bachree]

Hello everyone,
thank you very much for this tutorial.
I got a new axle and took off the wheel but since i got a wrong size of 12 point socket i could not finish the job.
I found a new set online:
Lisle 60750 12 Point Triple Square Bit Set
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-60750-Po...g=780065172-20
I will order this one but i wanted to make sure. does this set do the job?
Thanks.

[Widebody4.2]

That's the right size advanced autoparts has them in the tool section

[bachree]

That's the right size advanced autoparts has them in the tool section

thank you very much for your quick response. There are some longer versions of this tool, do you think this size work good to take off the axle? Because, i got one set of wrong size from Napa auto parts and this time i want to get the exact tool.
Thank you for your time.

[Widebody4.2]

thank you very much for your quick response. There are some longer versions of this tool, do you think this size work good to take off the axle? Because, i got one set of wrong size from Napa auto parts and this time i want to get the exact tool.
Thank you for your time.

They're 10mm if I remember right. But some people have also seen regular allen bolts in there so you just gotta look

[lscheres]

Great write up man!! Man that axle bolt was a SOB, took me forever to get it. Tried a nice Impact gun, no luck. Tried a breaker bar... Still no luck, im not too heavy, only 155lbs lol. So i said screw it and just heated the bastard with the torch till it was white hot. THAT WORKED lol, easy to i might add, didn't even need the impact gun, just unscrewed like butter. Anyway after i got that off after about 20 minutes of wrestling the axle i shimmied it out. WAHOO i was pretty stoked after dealing with the axle bolt. So then i went to put the new axle in and CAN NOT get it in for the life of me. I removed the heat shield and tired moving it all around and cant get it. Im SOOOOO close i needed like an extra 1/4 inch of space and it would have slid right in. So my question is is there a good spot to put the back end of the axle to give the front enough room to move into position?? I spent about 2 hours trying to get it in and gave up for the night, now its sitting in the garage with no axle lol. I really dont want to remove the pinch bolt as i would need to order a new one probably and i dont have another 5 days to wait. Anyone have any advice???? Thanks for getting em this far, the mech next door said he ALWAYS has to remove the pinch bolt and shit. I shook the axle in the air at him when i got it out lol. Now he says ill never get the new one in with out taking that bolt out. IM DETERMINED TO GET THIS IN lol please help

[lscheres]

About to get the day started... That damn axle is still sitting on the floor next to the car. Hopefully after a nights rest i can shove the damn thing in (without messing the ABS sensor up, if i haven't already lol) Do i turn the wheel ALL the way to the left??? Doing the passenger side btw, or is there a sweet spot like 70 or 80 % fully turned??? Im by myself so going back and forth from the wheel to the axle isnt too fun. Like i said, IM SOOOO CLOSE but just far enough to not go it. I would have to have someone bring a torch over to me (AGAIN) so i can get the pinch bolt out, but also i would need to order one and that would be 5 days.... Wish me luck!! Also if you have a suggestion ill be watching this thread till i leave. THANKS!!

[G0to60]

I just did this when I did my control arms and PS axle on my allroad. If you are doing the passenger side axle you need to turn the wheel all the way like you are turning left. You will also need to remove the shield that protects the CV (I think you already did this). What I did was shove the inner CV as far towards the front of the car and up. I then had to mess with the outer CV to slide it in but it really isn't too hard.

One thing I would be worried about is how you heated up the outer axle bolt and what damage may have occurred the wheel bearing. You may be all right but I wouldn't have heated that up so much. I always just grab a really long breaker bar (usually 3-4 feet) to get that bolt off.

Also, I didn't have to heat up the pinch bolt to get it off either. Just hit it with some PB Blaster before you get started just in case you do have to take it off. Spray it a couple more times and it should come right off. Did both sides on my car with no issues. Good luck.

[lscheres]

Thanks for the tips. Ya i again tried to get that outer cv in the hub. It was so close it was frustrating. So now I'm taking the pinch bolt out.... Got it half way out, almost got it past the first control arms, then it stopped moving. It still turns but isn't moving out. So now I'm looking for something to smack it out with. Lol ya I was wondering about that wheel bearing. After I got the axle bolt out I ran the hose over and got the hub wet so it cooled down quick. I guess I'll hear if I fucked it up one day

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[lscheres]

Damn control arms will not come out. The pinch bolt actually just came right out after I got it out half way, sprayed pb all over, and let it sit. Just tapped it out.... Stupid bolt... Knew that was too easy lol.... Now these damn arms are stuck. I raised the suspension assembly to relieve some tension. Seemed to help a little. I guess control arms get seized after 100k and 9 years of life? Been beating on them for an hour or so with no luck. I did get that front one almost out but almost is not enough. Still can't get the axle in with the shock off lol all i need is half an inch and it would slide right in. So much work for just an axle lol the corolla was never this hard to work on lol

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[G0to60]

I gave the upper control arms a tap from underneath and they popped right off. You can also pry open the slot for each control arm to help them slip out. Lastly you could gently heat the upright to get those control arms out. Be careful because the tie rods are right there and you don't want to burn those up.

On another note it looks like you're going to need at least one new upper control arm. The boot on one of the ball joints is torn and it will only be a matter or time before it craps out.

[lscheres]

Ya I just did that to the boot trying to get if off with the pickle bar (wedge type pry bar might be a different name) but I'm sure all my upper control arms need done. I'm tight on cash right now but plan on doing those and the timing belt in a couple weeks. Just trying to do the axle so I can drive with no clicking for those few weeks. I'll try prying the knuckle apart a little see if that does it. There's a lot of crap around them as the come out. They're VERY seized... Ill just keep taping..... Tap.... Tap..... Tap..... BANG!!

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[rollerton]

I don't understand- I've always been able to remove the axle by simply
1. Removing outer end axle bolt
2. Removing 6 inner CV bolts.
3. Remove Axle shield.
Turn steering wheel fully away from side of car that you're working on. Why do people need to take the control arms out? NEVER had to do that.

[G0to60]

One thing that may be his issue is that (for some reason) the CVs are extended and the basket or ball bearings are dislocated. This happened to me once and I had to re-seat the joint because it was a bit too long.

[rollerton]

If the CV is dislocated it's almost easier; you just take the axle/ CV out in 2 parts. I just did one two weeks ago, it shouldn't take more than 30-40 minutes.

[lscheres]

got the control arms off and got the axle in. Gata go get a new pinch bolt from audi tomorrow. I flattened some threads while taking i out and bent the end a little hitting it with a hammer.

I tried and tried to get the new axle in WITHOUT taking the control arms out, i got it out but could not get the new one in. The knuckle was to stiff and wouldn't bend enough to go into the hub... It was so close though, maybe my car was in and accident and its 1/4 inch off, that's how much more room i needed to get it in and it just wasn't there.

Anyway glad to get it done and off with, no more annoying clicking every time i turn. Thanks for the help, was a lot more then i thought. I didn't think i would need and oxy acetylene torch to get my axle bolt off. Then when i couldn't fit the new axle in and had to remove the control arms, i didnt think those would have been seized... It was a interesting time to say the least.. I almost feel like a Timing belt job would be easier, at least there's more room to work up there

[audiproject]

Having the same kind of problems with mine right now. I got the front almost out before I learned that I had the wheel turned the wrong way, then I somehow managed to get the inner joint jammed between the flange and the firewall. Now I can't get it out or in.. lol. hate/love/hate this car..