This is the god of all DIYs and should supersede any of the steps in my Walkthrough. Feel free to still use my pics as reference. But everything is clearly defined in the PDF
B7-A4-Turbo-Intake-Manifold-Removal-(STaSIS-DIY-PDF)
Listen- it seems that more than a few of us have forgotten to make sure each installed injector has an o-ring upon reassembly. WHEN YOU ARE READY TO GO BACK TOGETHER, AND YOUR INJECTORS ARE ALL INSTALLED RESPECTIVELY. MAKE SURE THERE IS A BLUE O RING ON THE TOP OF EACH ONE. SOMETIMES THEY GET STICK IN THE FUEL RAIL, OR FALL OFF. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS YOU COULD BE REINSTALLING THE MANIFOLD AGAIN!
So here's the beans. I see everyone on here paying hundreds of doll hairs and Monēt to get their valves cleaned. So I figured Id at least try to help you save some $$, first off I'm cheap, this will cost you 15-30$ depending on what tools you already have and how crazy you want to get cleaning the gunk.
Second is that I learned how to remove the manifold after searching for days to find an rs4 inj DIY posted by a big tuning company for their ko4 kit DIY. If you can find it than link it.
Tools I can remember using.... Torx 25? Definently 27&30
An 8" bit driver extension preferably magnetized. 10mm 6pt with bit driver adapter. Assorted pliers and screw drivers. A 13,14,17mm open end wrenches. Maybe a 19mm too lol
A triple square bit, can't remember the size but I remember that the first time I took off the manifold I used a large Allen that fit the hole well, since then I went to autozone and bought the set of four, Bassically if your going to touch your audi pay the 12$ for the set...
Materials needed: some extra coolant, if your good you won't need much (1 qaurt) brakleen/carb cleaner of choice (at least four cans) shop rags and a drink of choice.
*****READ THIS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING, I NOR THE AZ ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS. USE THIS FOR REFERENCE ONLY, I WROTE THIS ON AN IPHONE AND IT'S BY NO MEANS A STEP BY STEP DIY BECAUSE I'M 100% I'M FORGETTING SOMETHING OR TAKING A SHORTCUT THAT I MYSELF FEELS COMFORTABLE DOING.... BE PREPARED TO SWEAT, SWEAR AND SAVE $$$.$$
First step:
Remove your PCV, for me it was simple, for you maybe not... If this seems out of your league than go ahead and pay someone capable the 600$ to wash chemicals past your valves, after doing this three times, it's clear that no amount of chemicals unless pure acid will do shit to this gunk...
Step two:
Remove the fuel line accross the top of the manifold, it is a 13/14mm and 17mm. I usually let the car sit a few hours before touching it, let's it cool down and the fuel bleed off, if you are eager and like getting 3rd degree burns beware cause this lone will piss fuel everywhere if you go at it immediately. Also notice the screw on that black tube, that is your coolant bleed 10mm just remember thats where and what I'm talking about.
Step ?:
Disconnect your hpfp, the pissing fuel rule applies here as well, if u want and have small hands, it helps to reach down and pull up on the metal line while gently using your fore finger to undo the metal nut. Caution possibly hot.. Also unplug your hpfp connector just for giggles. If your running a boost tap
Than unplug that and set it to the side.
Step get it done:
Here's your upper coolant tube, where that blue rubber points is a hidden screw, t27? Undo it and it will let you move the upper hose enough to get the other torx below it, after that get some rags or w/e and undo that clamp, slide apart the hose and tube and position the hose so it's not spewing out coolant off to the side.
Under here is a sensor, unplug it..
A step:
Here's some connectors to remove, you will swear the middle and right one don't exist, but as soon as you got to remove the manifold u will see lol, if you search u can find them and remove with a flathead screwdriver, wait for the familiar VAG click and then wiggle them off, at this point I suggest removing your charge pipe, you do not need to remove your throttle body! If you want more clearance than do it, it's literally just another four t27 bolts, regardless you will need to remove the TWO connectors from it, than walla. Now look at your dipstick tube, it's got a t27 holding it the the IM, remove the screw and yank, ideally you would remove your dipstick but I'm laZy and u don't need to for the remove portion. Now look down next to whee you just yanked out your tube. There is a funny looking triple square bolt, this one is attached to a support bracket that connects to the IM and is right next to another that I've misstakingly taken out before :-/ ideally use the proper tool but I've used a large metric Allen, and a flat head the second time :/ lol
^^ dipstick tube hole>> the IM support bracket bolt is literally the one a few inches above this hole, do yourself a favor and remove it completely ;-) next is a weird vacuum thing that needs to get removed, it's got on of those PITA clips that can't be reused, I always zip tie mine back on, you do whatever you want. Idc
^ note that you can disconnect it further up, but then you would have to disconnect that connector=extra step and like I said I'm lazy.
Great pic here
Here you can see the hidden middle
Connector at the top of the pic and one of the throttle body area connectors,
Also you can see where I disconnected that vacuum deal from and the support bracket for the manifold. Here my TB is removed, not neccesary, someone asked if I replace those inset rubber gaskets.
ME NO! You... ? If you have the dough and want that extra "insurance" go ahead, in my personal experience Ford deems this exact design gasket to be "multi use" that's why it sets I a track and is a quality rubber material, I've personally never replaced mine not had a problem, but if I do this again than yes I will because this is a wear and tear item after multiple torque downs and where I'm running a BT... So do what you want.
Here is a better pic of the manifold mounting surface
As you can plainly see, the top of the manifold has FIVE bolts... The bottom of the manifold has TWO bolts In the center, and ONE stud/nut on each lower corner. These all have very accessible tracks that with a bit driver and extension can be reached easily, I suggest a magnet tip to grab them out, especially the nuts... The bolts are t27 and the nuts are 10mm. After this
You now can yank out the manifold!!!! You must first
Lift up on the coolant tube and get the corresponding bracket away from the tab it sits in, then move the other bracket up and away from it's plastic resting spot. Now finangle with the fuel line to get it situated and yank! It is really on there, you will wiggle and yank and swear it's still bolted on somewhere, maybe you left the support bracket still connected! But here comes the hardest part. The two lower studs are just long enough to make you think the manifold isn't coming off without removing the other metal tube bracketed on the left of the IM but your wrong, once the injectors
Let go of the manifold you just really give it some maneuvering and yanking and it will come right out. Just check all four injectors for the blue o ring as some times those come off. :-() you can now replace your injectors if u want? Go ahead and take them out and clean them, getting them out can be tricky, but if your smart you won't need the special tool :-)
Here's a pic of your map sensor, if you have a FMIC, or upgraded charge pipe, I suggest just removing it as opposed to pushing or stressing it to the side :-/
Here's the face of the I'M you can see the flappers and gasket, I've never had to clean the inside of the manifold.
Here's your charge pipe and TB on meth, you can see three of the four TB bolt holes and connector interface.
Now CLEAN YOUR VALVES- (there are metal shims that split each intake port in half, pull these out gently and clean them) your valves are right there in front of you, exposed you can see the situation, you will have a few if not most of them will he closed, my method is this, I spray them with cleaner and if the valve is closed I let them soak, I then take my trusty this long and skinny flathead and GENTLY scrape the carbon away, DO NOT PRY, CHIP, STAB OR HAMMER! use your head and take your time, I woulnt recommend using anything that is not solid to do this B/C u don't want to drop anything in that chamber :/ also I don't use a wire brush, they lose the bristles and now you have a potential for a bent valve, I just keep repeating this process until the valves are like new.
Clean and check everything prior to install as organization is the key to success! Make sure all of your seals and connectors/ bolts are there and routed, clean your mating surface as well!
To reassemble just repeat your steps backwards, only
Difference will be lining up the holes/studs, and after your finished you need to remove that coolant bleed screw (remember) and fill your coolant, let the car prime the fuel pump before starting, turn key on and
Of at least twice, then turn over, car will run funny for a few
Seconds then come right out of it, after the car runs long enough for the thermostat to open turn the car off, loosen the bleeder and fill resevoir until it comes out the bleeder.
SIT BACK enjoy the 600$ you just saved and don't forget to thank me :-)
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FUCK THIS UP!! it's simple and easy
For me, if you feel overwhelmed at any point PM me or post in this thread and we will help you, do not start this without proper preparation***
Sorry if the pics don't work, this was all done by iPhone so I will fix them later
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Originally Posted by DRAKLORE
"Boudica"
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