AEB + Maestro.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

FR5DTCs are good plugs. I ran them to 30psi on my 6262 with zero issues

Agreed, I won't run anything else. They're just a PITA to find in stock. Usually when I tell the parts guys the number I just get a blank stare.

EDIT: I'm running the FR6DTC plugs

[Dan[FN]6262]

Agreed, I won't run anything else. They're just a PITA to find in stock. Usually when I tell the parts guys the number I just get a blank stare.

EDIT: I'm running the FR6DTC plugs

you mean F6DTCs. The F6's are non resistored. ME7 does not like non resistor plugs. But when I ran those, it ran good until about 7.5k rpms lol. then the magnetic field that they create would make my ECU freak out and would typically blow the #34 fuse to it.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Yeah, I was looking into that and saw the difference. So is it ME7 that doesn't like the non-resistored type or is it the pushdown coils that don't like it?

EDIT: did some more reading and it looks like Bosch has gone to resistor-types on all or most of their plugs. If bosch changed the designation on their plugs then it may explain why it was such a PITA to find my tri-elecrodes the last time around.

[aaronamerica]

so where do you guys get the bosch plug from? nobody here local has them

[$teady$upreme]

so where do you guys get the bosch plug from? nobody here local has them

I just ordered thru Amazon.com

[ZimbutheMonkey]

I just ordered thru Amazon.com

Any sellers in Canada? I've gotten to the point where I won't bother with all the BS 'brokerage' fees and custom headaches for purchases like that out of the states. If I can find it in country and have it shipped reasonably I'll bite, otherwise I'll have to source it locally.

[Dan[FN]6262]

anyone know of a cheap wideband + gauge solution?

[SnowBum124]

so i could use a little help understanding my log files i am logging off the Measuring blocks and the only thing that moves is the RMP the rest stay flat line. what am i doing wrong and why dose nothing so up for "AFR desired" do i need to set that up or something.

[aaronamerica]

anyone know of a cheap wideband + gauge solution?

get the AEM wideband kit its very reliable Ive had mine for like 4 years with no issues, the innovate wideband is nice too but the aem is much more simple and straight to the point, but thats my opinion.....I bought mine on Ebay cheap brand new

so i could use a little help understanding my log files i am logging off the Measuring blocks and the only thing that moves is the RMP the rest stay flat line. what am i doing wrong and why dose nothing so up for "AFR desired" do i need to set that up or something.

when you click measuring blocks, do you also click the maestro log also on that screen.....I find it much easier for me to just record the log and then play it back when i get back home lol, you can also fast foward to specific spots in the log vs playing the whole log

I also dont get all the readings but i get the main main measuring blocks you need to log like timing, knock, mass air flow, fuel ms, and eng temp.....but i dont get live afr, injector duty cycle, intake temp, and etc but the newer me7 cars get all those readings i believe

[aaronamerica]

Hey guys went out to the track last night and was able to pull a 12.2@118mph on 19" wheels, I had several modded v8 guys upset lol

[SnowBum124]

hey could you help me whit a few more questions i have? how do you find out your A/R at? what block do you use? or do you have to just go off my wide band? i could really use some help tuning would anyone be so kind and PM me there phone number so i could ask you a few questions about tuning. the Eurodyne website and help files and vary confusing and would love to talk to someone and get a few answers. Thank you all so much

[aaronamerica]

I use my wideband...we can't log afr with the aeb motors as for as i know....shoot me a pm or ask questions here, this would help other Maestro users also

[SnowBum124]

so here are some of my questions
1 why dose my RMP the only thing that moves when i view my logs in the logviewer?

2. Dose the ECM read both Pre/Post o2 for tuning and if so what Map dose it relate to?
3.Enplane the Histogram for me? when it changes the number values is it changing them to what the should be or what your car is running?

[aaronamerica]

so here are some of my questions
1 why dose my RMP the only thing that moves when i view my logs in the logviewer?
2. Dose the ECM read both Pre/Post o2 for tuning and if so what Map dose it relate to?
3.Enplane the Histogram for me? when it changes the number values is it changing them to what the should be or what your car is running?

1. Its cause its trying to log too many blocks at once on that graph....I usually clear all selections an click TPS and Eng. Speed then watch the timing and etc in the window to the right...the best way i notice is to just log like 2 blocks at a time in the graph

2. not really sure about this one...hopefully some other maestro guys can chime in on this

3. The Histogram is a really nice function, it inputs values based what your is doing...example---if you log a wot third gear pull and your car is pulling 8 degree timing and then you run a Histogram it will pull out 8 degree timing in that exact spot, this apply to all maps in maestro

[frameshift18]

Hey guys I've got a few questions.

Is there a stock turbo basefile available? Would the 440 basefile work?
Would I be able to get a second basefile from tapp for when my build is complete?
Am I able to use the stock aeb maf sensor and housing? Or stock sensor in VR6 housing?

[aaronamerica]

uuuooo thats a good question.....I was wondering that for my stock Avant

[jaychen]

There is apparently a new feature that is in the works right now too have all the files uploaded to the system so when you log in you can choose what you want. Might be a day, might be a month, might be a year.. its happening though.

[Dan[FN]6262]

I do not know about the AEB ECU, but for the wideband ECUs, Tapp does offer STG 1 to STG2+ stock turbo files, as well as K04 files

[jaychen]

Yesterday he told me that for AEB customers they get 1 base tune file to start with.. ? He also said he has no K04 file for AEB.

[Don Supreme]

Hey guys went out to the track last night and was able to pull a 12.2@118mph on 19" wheels, I had several modded v8 guys upset lol

Congrats! Great results.

[Dan[FN]6262]

anyone who gets maestro gets one basefile. It's pointless to need more, from that file you have infinite adjustment of it.

You could take a 830 tune and scale everything to work with whatever hardware you have.

When I ordered maestro (shortly after it was released) Tapp only had one file done for my ECU, it was a 630cc tune. I have 875cc injectors. No big deal. I flashed it, ran logs, and adjusted everything accordingly.

[Dan[FN]6262]

Congrats! Great results.

Wow, I somehow missed this. Awesome job man

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Alright that's it, this VR6 TB idle thing is starting to piss me off! Make my fuckin' words, I will figure this out. It's just a question of whether or not I can figure it out before I throw the stock TB back on because I'm so sick of listening to the drone of the surging idle when I'm stuck in traffic.

I asked Chris Tapp about it and his response was "I don't know since I never changed the throttle body out on my AEB". Fair enough, but I'm starting to wonder if he didn't bother including the maps necessary to change the idle in the event of a larger TB. I asked about the Alpha N tables and he said that what they were for is giving the car a set of TPS vs RPM values in the event of the TB failing. Although I've heard of guys using Alpha N values to smooth out their idle on the AEB's I'm starting to wonder if it must be guys who are trying use the Alpha N values as a roundabout way to go with a MAFless setup on an AEB. Makes sense that adjusting the Alpha N values would change the idle in that situation. Problem is, it doesn't do me a damn bit of good since I'm using a MAF sensor.

Now, up until now I was thinking that it was the ECU controlling the stepper motor in the TB and opening it until it hit some sort of a stop at 1500 RPM, not so. I pulled the cover off the side of the TB to watch what was happening and the idle was increasing without the stepper motor gear assembly making any meaningful movement. Also, I tried to push back on the gear assembly, against the motor, to try and counter the idle surge and somehow sent it into some kind of limp mode. Basically, the stepper motor stopped moving at all and the idle stopped for a second at 1200 RPM. But, from there, it started surging from 1200-700 RPM.

So it looks like in either case, the TB isn't causing the surging via the stepper motor in the idle control system. It has to be the engine adding fuel or bumping up the timing. And I can't seem to control the timing at idle. I tried dropping it down to 9.5 deg, but that only takes effect if I nudge the throttle plate past 6 degrees so the part throttle circuit on the TB is activated.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

OK, I may have found out what keeps the idle down. So I went to pick up the GF and she was running a little late. So I parked, but left the car running. At that point, the idle had picked up from when I had left home but it wasn't surging, just sitting at 1400-1450. So I turned the heater fan off because it was getting warm and bang, it starts surging. That's when it hit me like a ton of bricks. Guess what, it's cold and dark, I'm running with my lights on, rear defrost and heater fan at full blast trying to warm up the car. Turned the rear defrost back on and turned the fan to full and bam! down to a steady 1200 RPM. Take the load off the system and it starts surging again. I found that it works best with an output of 12.8V, any more and it starts to raise. With everything off and it surging it's around 13.6V.

So I've been playing with the voltage compensation and I think (or hope) I'm on the right track. I think I need to drop the constant from 9-12V and slightly raise the constant from 12-15V. Trouble is, you can't drop the entire curve or it runs really lean and the idle raises as it tries to richen up. I think a ratio of about -20% to +10% on the reshape curve function is where I'm heading. Anyway, I hope this works out (knock on wood). Let me know what you all think, or if you have any input.

[spindoctor]

Hey guys I've got a few questions.

Am I able to use the stock aeb maf sensor and housing? Or stock sensor in VR6 housing?

I've asked Chris about this and he says

"The 630cc and 870cc files are calibrated for the Audi V8 MAF sensor. In theory yes, you could tune for other sensor but it involves a lot of work."

[Dan[FN]6262]

Tyler, you need to adjust your battery voltage compensation values.

as far as the throttle body goes, you make adjustments to the throttle angle vs airflow map, which I cannot remember if the AEB even has that map available, or if it even exsists

[ZimbutheMonkey]

As far as I know, it doesn't. As for the voltage compensation, what was throwing me for a loop was that I couldn't seem to make it work. And with no one having solved the issue for certain, I had no real indication as to whether or not I was just wasting my time with it.

At least now I know for certain it's the voltage output that's affecting it. I don't mind spending time on it as long as I know I'm at least on the right track. With there being so little info out there on the AEB ECUs I've been finding that half the battle has just been finding which of the maps to alter.

[Don Supreme]

As far as I know, it doesn't. As for the voltage compensation, what was throwing me for a loop was that I couldn't seem to make it work. And with no one having solved the issue for certain, I had no real indication as to whether or not I was just wasting my time with it.

At least now I know for certain it's the voltage output that's affecting it. I don't mind spending time on it as long as I know I'm at least on the right track. With there being so little info out there on the AEB ECUs I've been finding that half the battle has just been finding which of the maps to alter.

And you will be a better man once you figure it all out........

Its always about the journey.

Keep at it.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Heh, so I got it to idle spot on at 1000 RPM. Oh, wait, did I fail to mention that it was at a 19:1 A/F ratio? Damn, I must have.

Yeah, I'm pretty much chasing the dragon right now. I can get it to idle lower, but it only seems that it'll stay there if it's a) really lean and b) past it's 30% correction range. Basically, the ECU adds as much fuel as it can, but it looks like runs out of adjustment range at 30%. So any dropped voltage beyond that will result in a permanent change that the ECU can't compensate for.

However it looks like trying to kill a flea with a machine gun, way to ham fisted for my liking. Question is, can you run that lean at idle as long as you don't put any load on it? As soon as you touch the throttle, you break the idle control circuit and your ECU snaps back to 14.7:1 reality. Somehow my Spidey Sense isn't really down with that.

The other idea I have (and I think this may be the best solution at present) is to see if there's a dedicated signal wire for the idle control circuit. If dampening the voltage load to the TB via the heater, high beams, etc... works then maybe I can put some sort of diode or resistor on there to alter the signal to the TB while letting me keep the appropriate voltage compensation to the rest of the engine.

[morzechowski]

I'm the guy Rob was speaking of in the first few posts. The car is ready for Maestro now, will be heading up to the shop tomorrow to get everything squared away and ready for E85 tuning. I will keep you fellas updated. Cheers.

[aaronamerica]

I'm the guy Rob was speaking of in the first few posts. The car is ready for Maestro now, will be heading up to the shop tomorrow to get everything squared away and ready for E85 tuning. I will keep you fellas updated. Cheers.

your going to love E85, I recently beat a 03 cobra that makes 430whp, I currently run 24 degree timing and 28psi and plan to run more lator when i get to a dyno

so whats your setup? and whats your plans?

[morzechowski]

your going to love E85, I recently beat a 03 cobra that makes 430whp, I currently run 24 degree timing and 28psi and plan to run more lator when i get to a dyno

so whats your setup? and whats your plans?

here is my thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...content-inside

The usual build. all new internals, gt3076r, 034 modified EV injectors 830cc @ 3bar. 1000cc @4b. I'm going with two separate software setups. I will be running Maestro with the MAF for reliability, and then will also have AEM standalone setup for race car mode. I will then swap them around when I feel necessary.

as for plans, no plans. Just putting together a fun daily driver.

[aaronamerica]

here is my thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...content-inside

The usual build. all new internals, gt3076r, 034 modified EV injectors 830cc @ 3bar. 1000cc @4b. I'm going with two separate software setups. I will be running Maestro with the MAF for reliability, and then will also have AEM standalone setup for race car mode. I will then swap them around when I feel necessary.


as for plans, no plans. Just putting together a fun daily driver.

why do you need AEM standalone, you have maestro that should be all you need????? also I would just use your 1000cc injectors for both tunes, sell your 830cc injectors, and just compensate your fuel map for each tune....with maestro your allowed to have as many tunes as you want...I think your making your setup way too difficult and spending unnecessary money

how much power are you shooting for and how much max boost are your planning to run?

[morzechowski]

why do you need AEM standalone, you have maestro that should be all you need????? also I would just use your 1000cc injectors for both tunes, sell your 830cc injectors, and just compensate your fuel map for each tune....with maestro your allowed to have as many tunes as you want...I think your making your setup way too difficult and spending unnecessary money

how much power are you shooting for and how much max boost are your planning to run?

my EV830cc injectors are internally modified to be able to push well over 1000cc, but still be able to idle perfectly. They are tested up to 9bar fp. I can run them at 830cc @3bar on the AFPR and around 1000cc @4bar. supposedly these injectors spray better and better the higher the fp. I haven't tested them out myself yet though..

correct me if im wrong, but isent it pretty much impossible to go MAFless on the AEB with Eurodyne?

The entire point of setting up two EMS's is..

Eurodyne:
MAF =
Reliability
Minnesota -35deg cold starts
backup
local support
cost effective
easy

AEM:
race car
race car
race car
you know.. all the sweet options that come along with standalone.

[A4Rob]

Again, if we are talking standalone go with either VEMStune, AEM, DTA, 034 ect. Mafless tune, no ICM yadda yadda awesomeness.

[rockersteady]

Do any one you AEB guys have the fuel pump priming when the key is on? Mine stopped priming after switching to M7 and makes for some long cranking before it fires up.

I asked Chris about this and he said it should'nt be his Base causing this.
I too have this lack of pump prime with key on since flashing his lic.

Anybody else got this issue- I know Aaron you said you changed the injector constant (I presume you mean the fuel consumption calculator constant) but Im not sure this is the fix for no Pump on at Key on.
Just a user poll at the moment, something I can send back to Chris if I can get confirmation.

[aaronamerica]

i increased the cranking constant, that solved my cranking issue

[rockersteady]

Sure, yes I see that now,
but what about your fuel pump? do you know if it kicks on for a short while when you turn the ignition to on? Like it does on a stock ECU?

[aaronamerica]

No mine has never switched on....but I haven't been on a stock ecu since 05 so I really can't remember for sure if it ever switched on when the car was stock

[SynapticA4TQM]

I use my wideband...we can't log afr with the aeb motors as for as i know....shoot me a pm or ask questions here, this would help other Maestro users also

I've got an AEB as well... it's very stock, but I'm working on understanding what's going on with the software I have available to me before I start changing anything (not to mention funds)...

according to some old Ross-tech articles the provided a spreadsheet that logged the fuel injector time, mass air flow and RPM's. After a lil bit of math you would have your AFR. Here is the link Air_Fuel_Example.xls ... Is this not applicable? Would it be completely thrown off by the different MAF's and injectors most of you guys are running? One thing that I've noticed is different that their example and my old GTI vr6 is that it's average injector time rather than "Injector On Time".

Maybe someone could compare their wideband to the results that come up with to confirm whether or not this works for us AEB'ers.....

Along the same lines, I've been recording block 122 which provides Nm data that can be converted to TQ and from that HP can be figured. After some comparisons, this seems to provide Crank hp/tq rather than WHP. Once again I'll ask, does this get upset when you change the stock MAF and injectors?