Bypassing 3.0 A/C compressor pulley with shorter serpentine belt

[john_gonzo]

I wanted a shorter belt for bypassing the air conditioning compressor pulley on a 2003 A4 3.0 for some upcoming compressor work. (Don't want the car down that long). Gates Corporation part number K060651 is a perfect fit. $18 at CarQuest.

Stock belt info is included here for reference.

===Stock belt
part number: K060739
Number of ribs: 6
Outside circumference(mm): 1893

===Shorter belt bypassing A/C compressor pulley
part number: K060651
Number of ribs: 6
Outside circumference(mm): 1669

For those without a local Gates vendor, ask for the serpentine belt for:
2010, 2011 Subaru Outback 4-Cyl. 2.5 L
2010, 2011 Subaru Legacy 4-Cyl. 2.5 L

Edit - Helpful tips here: 3-0-serpentine-belt-removal-method

ac

[pape]

great info

[jordan_lopez]

great, my compressor is shot.. anybody else tried it?

[john_gonzo]

FWIW, I ran my 3.0 with the bypass belt from the time of the original posting to this June, about 10 months.

EDIT: My AC system was fully sealed and charged during the 10-month downtime. The compressor clutch had failed twice within a short enough time span to raise suspicions of impending compressor failure. Wanting to avoid that and the accompanying fragment blast into the rest of the system, I wised up and installed the bypass belt.

[87supraman]

This belt also works. The OC is 1674mm. It is still tight and goes on a little easier in a jam. This was all Napa had that I could get to work. Seems fine, I'm about to drive close to 2000 miles home with it.

Autozone had a similar belt that was 1664mm OC, this belt is too small do not waste your time with it.

[Lornnn]

Awesome, thank you

[seannerd]

I just did this yesterday using the part you suggested on my 2003 A4 3.0 6 speed. The K060651 belt was *almost* too tight - but it did go on after compressing the tensioner all the way. So - I guess I'm good :) Many thanks for posting the part numbers. I can now delay the job of pulling the front off until next month.

[87supraman]

I had the best luck with the 060653 (1674mm 6 rib) Napa belt. I tried a bunch at various stores. This is the only one I found I could slip on and off without much effort with a hot engine that the tensioner could keep tight. Add a serpentine belt tool and belts are painless. The altenator pulley can be frustrating.

Wilmar W84012 Belt Hook Tool by Wilmar http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KO3YW/..._93XQtb15R2973

[Lornnn]

I had the best luck with the 060653 (1674mm 6 rib) Napa belt. I tried a bunch at various stores. This is the only one I found I could slip on and off without much effort with a hot engine that the tensioner could keep tight. Add a serpentine belt tool and belts are painless. The altenator pulley can be frustrating.

Wilmar W84012 Belt Hook Tool by Wilmar http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KO3YW/..._93XQtb15R2973

I just picked up this tool and it isn't helping me at all... How did you actually position it to get it to grip the tensioner nub?

[87supraman]

The tool is used to guide the belt around the pulleys. However I also used it to push the tensioner down by putting one of the "pins" inside the box end of the wrench. Helps massively to push the wrench all the way down to really loosen up the tensioner.

[Lornnn]

The tool is used to guide the belt around the pulleys. However I also used it to push the tensioner down by putting one of the "pins" inside the box end of the wrench. Helps massively to push the wrench all the way down to really loosen up the tensioner.

Thanks, will give it a shot later. This belt tensioner has been a massive pain in the ass since I can't get enough leverage in the cramped space to push down on it with a wrench.

[Lornnn]

Had to put it in the service position to get it done but, man, thanks for that part number... the NAPA belt fits perfect. That terrible whine is completely gone, the steering seems smoother (no more bad A/C pulley tugging on the belt) and the car even seems a bit quicker.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Hey question how did you go about sealing off the AC system lines after disconnecting them from the compressor?? Anyone have any good tricks as I am about to replace my compressor but don't want any added moisture getting into the system.

[87supraman]

I just put a sandwich bag over all open lines and held it there with a rubber band. If you are replacing the drier too then it isn't a huge deal to keep them sealed. Just be sure to evac the system for a good while.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Since were on topic of compressor replacement...I've heard a lot about flushing the system and why flushing doesn't really work because condensor lines are too small. Bootom line if your compressor hasn't grenaded, I think mine just has a bad clutch that wont engage, does it need a flush?

[87supraman]

Check your orifice tube. If you have metal bits on that I would flush. My compressor still worked but sounded like it was coughing marbles. I had a few metal bits in the lines and a speck or two on the orifice tube. I bought a Mastercool flush kit on Amazon. Worth the $30 peice of mind. When I started the flush I was more concerned on how much old oil blew out of the various hoses and parts than the few metal bits I found.
I would at a minimum just blow everything out. The amount of oil I had probably took care of transporting any metal out.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Nice good info...I just replaced the orfice and it was in great shape....Could have reused but changed it out just because I dropped the OEM one LOL. Never thought about the oil and the fact that it circulated throughout the ENTIRE system....Shit I may have some install the compressor, dryer and do a flush.

Any tips on flushing? Which hoses did you disconnect?

[87supraman]

I disconnected all of them except the ones going into the condenser. I had an issue getting the hoses off the condenser so I left those in place(welds were twisting). Really most come off easy. However I had to put it in service position to remove the compressor. Also I changed the engine oil at the same as I removed the oil filter for more room to R&R the compressor. All took a few hours, then once back together I evac'd the system for an hour. Then let it sit overnight to confirm no leaks.
Flushing was simple but messy. Bought everything I needed for the flush on Amazon. Be aware, most warranties require a "flush". If your new compressor fails and they find foreign metal bits they won't honor the warranty. I did everything in my garage with zero prior A/C experience. It has been a year and still blows cold with no issues.

[thaifoodninja]

FYI Autozone's duralast (I know, I know, I was in a pinch here) 655K6 also fits easily. It has an outer diameter of 1677.93mm http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ntifier=165261

[Audi 4 Life]

This isn't needed if you don't want to run the compressor, all you need to do is unplug it and uncharge it.

[imnuts]

This isn't needed if you don't want to run the compressor, all you need to do is unplug it and uncharge it.

While that would be similar, your adding drag to the belt, so it wouldn't have the same efficiency gains as using the shorter belt.

Sent from my Moto X

[Apexmaster32]

How does the heater system work e out AC? As far as I know the AC is on at all times on our audi?

[Turbo510]

FYI Autozone's duralast (I know, I know, I was in a pinch here) 655K6 also fits easily. It has an outer diameter of 1677.93mm http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ntifier=165261

I was pleased to find this subject posted about, as just recently I had a similar situation as the OP did (7 years ago). My compressor's pulley bearing started whirring, progressed to occasional crunches. I bought a new bearing for it, but couldn't get the drive hub to unscrew off the compressor. The AutoZone belt mentioned fit nicely and was $18. No A/C but now I can drive it while figuring out what to do about that pulley bearing!

[pablolizarraga]

Same situation here. Installed the bypass belt because A/C compressor was starting to get loud. I've been trouble shooting this little by little. First thing I did was replace my AUX fan which had not been running for years; but just one more thing to rule out. Then ran some A/C leak dye after I tried filling system w/ enough A/C pro that my ECON light would go off. Since the compressor needs to have enough refrigerant to function, I'm assuming that when ECON light went off, the system disabled its fail safe mode and allowed compressor to function and pump refrigerant through the system. Once I saw ECON light go off I pumped some of the leak dye. However, other than finding out that, while using the ultraviolet pen light, Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 has some fluorescence, I could not find any A/C leaks; which I know I have one. Maybe all the dye is in the compressor?
Given that the compressor bearing appears shot, I started working on taking it apart while still installed. There's a large circlip that holds an outer cover. Once removed, you'll see a snap ring toward center. Unfortunately, the snap ring pliers I bought were too short to reach. Either way, I imagine it's worth putting it in service position to work on it. Just gotta find a day to do it.

[Leonides2727]

Bringing up old thread hopefully someone can help me, u think my ac compressor pulley is bad my belt keeps falling off my ac hasn't blown cold per say and make some noise from them to time but again belt falls off pulley spins with belt off but not as easy as PS one does or alternator one attached os video if you look at the ac pulley almost lookes like it starts wanting to go the other way

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tEfT5qiQbAK1bNvB8

[jj94tt]

I doubt this is the ac causing this, being that it's a ribbed pulley. I'd take a close look at the tensioner.

[Leonides2727]

Yea I've read ac doesn't seize up and others say it does, I bought a shorter belt and let it run for a bit and belt didn't slip, going to put it together and take it in a drive and see what happens.