coolant leak from line (turbo)

[greyturbo]

so i noticed my car had a coolant leak,i looked under it and a line is split where the rubber meets the metal, it looks like a turbo coolant line it has a banjo fitting on one end and the other end it looks like you would maybe have to use vise grips? seems easy is there any place that offers this hose cheap?

[walky_talky20]

You're probably talking about this guy:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...oses/ES251591/

I'd take a close look and make sure it isn't just leaking from the sealing washers where it is bolted at. It can leak from there, down the hose, and make it appear that the rubber line is leaking. It is pretty tricky, but it is possible to replace the sealing washers (crush washers) where it bolts directly to the turbocharger center housing, without removing the turbocharger from the car. Ask me how I know!

[greyturbo]

im pretty sure its the turbo coolant feed line i got the hex bolt out that goes to the block i just dont know how to get the other end loose?

[greyturbo]

yeah thats the line!!!

[greyturbo]

the line cracked for sure so do i have to remove the turbo to replace that line?

[walky_talky20]

If you got to the bolt on the block (commendable BTW), then all you have now is the bolt to the turbo. I used a 17mm chrome (thin wall), shallow socket. Then I used a 3/8" drive "socket cap" so I could turn the socket using a long 14mm wrench with a 12-point box end. The magical piece that made it possible was the socket cap, this guy here (the middle one):



Basically it works like a super low-profile ratchet. You might even be able to use a ratcheting wrench in there once you get it broken loose (the hard part).
I think that line is also held in place by a small 10mm somehow. I don't remember how accessible that is, but it can't be too bad. I do think it is probably possible to change this line without moving the turbo.

[Antoinebourdeau]

so i noticed my car had a coolant leak,i looked under it and a line is split where the rubber meets the metal, it looks like a turbo coolant line it has a banjo fitting on one end and the other end it looks like you would maybe have to use vise grips? seems easy is there any place that offers this hose cheap?

Is it leaking at the top (at the front of the engine) or at the bottom?... mine was leaking at the top where it meets the coolant pipe and I was able to just cut 1/2 inch or so off the rubber line and reconnect it without changing anything thing.

yeah use vise grips on that clamp.

[walky_talky20]

^ We are talking about the feed line (block > turbo CHRA), not the return line (Turbo > Upper radiator pipe). But that would indeed be a valid repair for the return line.

[Pfc. Parts]

If you got to the bolt on the block (commendable BTW), then all you have now is the bolt to the turbo. I used a 17mm chrome (thin wall), shallow socket. Then I used a 3/8" drive "socket cap" so I could turn the socket using a long 14mm wrench with a 12-point box end. The magical piece that made it possible was the socket cap, this guy here (the middle one):



Basically it works like a super low-profile ratchet. You might even be able to use a ratcheting wrench in there once you get it broken loose (the hard part).
I think that line is also held in place by a small 10mm somehow. I don't remember how accessible that is, but it can't be too bad. I do think it is probably possible to change this line without moving the turbo.

This was a lifesaver Walky. When I replaced the turbo in my '98 I should have torqued this bolt before the exhaust -> turbo & turbo->cat bolts but didn't. Now it's in I can't get a wrench on it for final torque and it's leaking. Just ordered a set of socket caps. Thanks Very Much!

Regards,
Scott.

[VAGFanatic]

Wanted to see if anyone knows how many total crush washers are necessary when changing the supply pipe mentioned, their size/part number(s), where the best place ONLINE is to get them, and also if it is required to do a full coolant change for this job!

[customa4]

Has anyone successfully changed this hose without pulling the turbo?



I'm about to try it, any tips?

[customa4]

I just wanted to update this thread to say how I was able to get the hose off with out pulling the turbo. It took quite a few different combinations before I was able to find the right one. I ended up removing the oil and coolant lines attached to the turbo trying to figure out how to get to the bolt but I think it's unnecessary with this combination. For the top banjo bolt I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter with the socket on it(I believe the socket was 19 but that's easy enough to figure out). I used the adapter in this kit. For the lower banjo bolt I took removed the bolts for the helmholtz resonator(boost reservoir) but l left the hoses connected. That was enough to have a view of the other banjo bolt. I used the allen socket with a swivel and a couple extensions to get it off. That was the easy one. Make sure you replace the crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolts when you remove the banjo bolts.

This is the bolt in question



Here is what worked to get the bolt out

[audi_nightrider]

replacing mine soon. any link for the crush washers for this line??

TIA!

[daniel B6 1.8t]

thanks for the write up and pics definitely help, I am experiencing the same leak problem .

[diagnosticator]

The crush washers should be available from any diesel fuel injection shop. If the washers are copper they can be annealed by heating to red hot and allowing to cool slowly. This will soften the washers so they reseal, but new washers are always best. Replace aluminum crush washers with copper washers as copper is better.


Dealer part numbers:

N 013 851 4 Seal washer 12 X 18.

N 013 814 9 Seal washer 14.2 X 17.9 X 1.5

[montytravis]

I have coolant in my line going from the turbo to the oil pan? What could cause that?

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