Check Engine Light. ANOTHER CODE- P0106

[boosteda4]

P0106- Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem

Anyone deal with this code before? I figured anytime I get a code, I will throw it on the forums with information I can get out of it. That way, a simple Code search on Audizine will eventually lead to helping out with all the known codes I've had before...


Here is what I found online.

P0106- What does it mean?

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) uses the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) to monitor engine load. (NOTE: Some vehicles have a Barometric Pressure (BARO) sensor that is integral to the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and do not have a MAP sensor. Other vehicles have a MAF/BARO and a redundant MAP sensor where the MAP sensor functions as a backup input in case of MAF failure.) The PCM supplies a 5 Volt reference signal to the MAP sensor. Usually the PCM also supplies a ground circuit to the MAP sensor as well. As the manifold pressure changes with load, the MAP sensor input informs the PCM. At idle the voltage should be 1 to 1.5 Volts and approximately 4.5 Volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The PCM looks for any change in manifold pressure to be preceded by a change in engine load in the form of changes in throttle angle, engine speed, or Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) flow. If the PCM doesn't see any of these factors change while detecting a rapid change in MAP value, it will set a P0106.
Potential Symptoms

The following could be symptomatic of a P0106:

* Engine runs rough
* Black smoke at tailpipe
* Engine will not idle
* Poor fuel economy
* Engine misses at speed

Causes

A P0106 could be caused by:

* Bad MAP sensor
* Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector
* Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
* Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
* Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem
* A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold
* Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities)

Possible Solutions

Using a scan tool, watch the MAP sensor value with the key on, engine off. Compare the BARO reading with the MAP reading. They should be roughly equal. The voltage for the MAP sensor should read approx. 4.5 volts. Now start the engine and look for a significant drop in the MAP sensor voltage indicating the MAP sensor is working.

If the MAP reading doesn't change perform the following:

1. With the Key on, engine off, disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Using a vacuum pump, pull 20 in. of vacuum on the MAP sensor. Does the voltage drop? It should. If it doesn't inspect the MAP sensor vacuum port and vacuum hose to manifold for a restriction of some kind. Repair or replace as necessary.
2. If there are no restrictions, and the value doesn't change with vacuum, then perform the following: with the Key on and engine off and the MAP sensor unplugged, check for 5 Volts at the reference wire to the MAP sensor connector with a Digital Voltmeter. If there is none, check for reference voltage at the PCM connector. If the reference voltage is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, check for open or short in the reference wire between MAP and PCM and retest.
3. If reference voltage is present, then check for existing ground at the MAP sensor connector. If it isn't present then repair open/short in the ground circuit.
4. If ground is present, then replace MAP sensor.


I haven't tried anything, because I'm at work, but will update you guys with whatever I find...

[boosteda4]

Hey guys... simple fix this time... seems like the air intake hose was knocked a little loose... I put it on right and the CEL went away... If you have this issue and find other fixes, feel free to add it.

[boosteda4]

Turns out that wasnt my fix... ordered a MAP sensor and the Audi miracle tool kit from ECS tuning today... My fuel mileage is terrible! I live two hours from the Bay Area and round trip was a full tank of gas... haha

[Ves]

this is a good idea about documenting the different codes on threads like this

[DRAKLORE]

this is a good idea about documenting the different codes on threads like this

Sure sounds peachy, but if I see another thread titled "p0171" I'm going postal on AZ :-/

[makav3li]

Thumbs up on the good thread, wish I could help you diagnose your problem but I'm sure this thread will help alot more people in the future.

[boosteda4]

I replaced the MAP sensor and it was the issue... my fuel economy is back, my power is back... and my check engine light is gone.... Only 36 bucks for my MAP sensor... problem solved.

[ricob5s4]

I replaced the MAP sensor and it was the issue... my fuel economy is back, my power is back... and my check engine light is gone.... Only 36 bucks for my MAP sensor... problem solved.

where did you get the map sensor for $36?

[rnp614]

install process? Location on engine?

[kloeb2]

2 5mm socket head cap screws. 1 electrical connection. Located on intake pipe after 2nd intercooler before throttle body. Literally a 5 minute install.

Don't go cheap on non-oem ones if you are running high boost. I have gonna through 2 of the aftermarket ones in the past 2 months. The diaphram kept rupturing at 28psi. I bought an oem one and it's been great.

[Sodium]

P0106- Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem

A P0106 could be caused by:

* Bad MAP sensor
* Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector
* Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
* Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
* Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem
* A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold
* Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities)

I'm getting intermittent but regular (every 3-4 days) P0106 MAP/BARO out of ranger errors on my A4 3.2 FSI.

I ordered and replaced the sensor and the problem persists.

The problem I'm noticing in driving is a slightly fluctuating ilde and momentary power drop outs at cruise. No other codes are being thrown.

Data point: since it's an FSI with 75k miles on it I went ahead and had the intake valves grit blasted back to perfect.

Data point: I run only high octane fuel.

Data point: When cold starting the problem is usually not present. Smooth power, smooth cruise.

Data point: When starting the car warm the problem is most evident.

Data point: Acceleration is smooth and power seems reasonable.

So I still need to order to Ross-Tech software and I'm using a conventional OBDII code reader so there's probably more information i can gather when I pick a copy of Ross-Tech up later this month. This isn't preventing me from driving the vehicle but it is a nuisance. I've investigated the items above but found nothing obvious. Vacuum lines are all connected and in good repair and intake plumbing are all good. Wiring seems fine. If there's an intermittent short I'm not finding it and if anyone knows of obvious pinch points to check for harness damage please let me know.

Some experienced diagnostic advice for next steps troubleshooting would be much appreciated.

[Sodium]

Since they're in an unknown state as the car is a recent purchase I'm going to go ahead and replace the spark plugs with a set of double-platinum plugs after reading through this discussion of plug selection. I'm not expecting this to resolve the weird power drops at cruise when the engine is warm but it'll provide another data point and rule them out.

http://www.hstuning.com/blog/uncateg...i-tsi-engines/

Just for redundancy sake I've retraced the wiring and reinspected all of the vacuum lines and intake connections and see nothing out of the ordinary. I also opened all of the electrical connectors and inspected for corrosion, dirt or water and they were all clean and dry.

It does not appear that the 3.2 engine has a MAF sensor. That's a bit of a surprise really. But it did cause me to wonder about the servo actuated throttle valve and if that could be causing issues. Rooting around I did not see any discussion of this combination nor how to test the throttle. I'm not getting throttle error codes, just P0106.

Before I did the valve cleaning I would get misfires and misfire DTCs if the temp was below 35 degrees F. Those do not occur now.

[Sodium]

OK, swapped out the plugs with champion double-platinum plugs. Car starts better and an interesting data point: The plugs in the car were mismatched. They were all iridium NGK plugs but of two different styles 3x3 and with the banks mix-n-match. During the test drive the car did not seem to be exhibiting the weird-ass intermittent power loss however the problem itself is intermittent. Still, I'll update the thread if ~spark~ ~plugs~ turned out to be a remedy. I'm still guessing this was just a process of elimination exercise and I'm aiming next at the Throttle Position Sensor. My theory is that I have conflicting information going to the ECU and it's doing it's best to reconcile.

So I'm looking first at wear items.
TPS.
Timing Chain Tensioner.
Throttle Solenoid.

I'll work my way forward from least to most expensive until the last thing I try is the solution.

and they say computers are labor saving devices. yah right.

[Sodium]

OK, weird but true. The new plugs seem to be having a real effect on the P0106 code. The jury is still out but the results so far are positive.

Also, I purchased a new MAP sensor, Bosch branded, for $35 on Amazon.

[Sodium]

Here's a theory... since the FSI engine blasts the plugs with high pressure fuel and that is known to erode the electrodes unless specialty plugs are used (and even some specialty plugs have problems if both electrodes are not plated) then the power variations at nominal throttle, a lean driving condition, could be correlated with electrode wear.

Someone experiencing this problem would do well to inspect the plugs and check the gap. It's an easy diagnostic and cheap fix.

For me it has made a big difference. In 8 drive cycles the problem has not recurred.

The plugs I took out were NGK-R PFR7W-TG & NGK-R 8KR6EKU0

What numb nuts put in mismatched plugs is anyones guess. So there were 3 conventional plugs and 3 Iridium plugs.

[Sodium]

I have no idea what that's got to do with P0106 though and consistently THAT is the code that was thrown. I'm still hunting around for data. My brother has my old vag-com cable still and is sending it back so I can get some data collection going, maybe even swap in the old plugs again to get some good data. I'm going to speculate I'll see sensor mismatches between TPS, Fuel Pressure and MAP that the ECU is attributing to MAP but are actually a result of ignition timing issues being driven by the mismatched plugs. Since the cylinders can be timed independently by the ECU and I had mix-n-match plugs the ECU was seeing weird timing adjustments necessary for lean performance.

[Sodium]

OK, I upgraded my VAGComm cable and performed a variety of data logging.

Among other things I watched the performance of the:
fuel pressure
misfires
MAP
throttle position
accelerator position
load
RPM

When plotting out all of the data I was fairly consistently seeing throttle position flutter during power drop outs and the throttle flutter was independent of acccelerator position.

So, the OEM throttle valve is $1000 more or less so I took a chance on a Chinese knockoff part through Amazon. At $70 + $70 for expedited shipping I received the valve in 5 days.

That makes 3 parts replaced at this point: MAP/Baro sensor, spark plugs and throttle valve.

Throttle fluctuations are gone and performance is smooth and predictable even at cruise and even while throttle is idle/minimal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y7T2CCO

This part claims to be common across a lot of Audi engines. So if you're seeing intermittent power drops and P0106 this may be your culprit.

[hacgumyu]

What's the power drop out feels like when you driving ? I have CEL with P0106 too, I ordered the MAP and sparks on the way. Hoping I don't need to worry the throttle body


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

[Sodium]

What I was feeling was a stutter. Basically the car would misfire at speed possibly due to improper fuel metering for the airflow.

The car wouldn't stall though. It would stutter, run, stutter, run. It felt like it was hesitating. This would happen while it was in cruise or with throttle control but always with a minimal throttle. It didn't happen when slowing nor when accelerating, only with a light throttle.

My car is a 6 speed. So one way to induce this condition for me was to run the engine up to temp. Stop and shut it off. Start and get on the highway in 5th at 60 and set the cruise. The symptoms would occur.

Also, stopped at idle I would see the engine RPM randomly fluctuate between 850-900.

Now power is smooth in all gears at all speeds. Idle is pinned at 850 with no visible fluctuation when stopped.

Replacing the throttle valve was 10 minutes work, no big deal. Easier than the spark plugs. At $70 the aftermarket part was cheap.

[hacgumyu]

Update: after replacing new OEM map sensor and cleared the CEL. The code came back just few miles. I don't know where to look next. A new throttle body?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

[Sodium]

Replacing the throttle valve and MAP sensor seems to require a recalibration step to prevent the ECU from setting codes. VAGCOM software is required for this step.

[Sodium]

I've been fiddling with Throttle Valves partly because they're $1000 OEM, which seems a bit ridiculous. As luck would have it one of my local junk yards took in an A6 with the 3.2 FSI and I've been busily yanking everything I can off that engine including the Throttle Valve.

I took my old one apart. It seems it was designed for servicing which struck me a little oddly until I got inside and took a look around in there. The valve itself has a feedback potentiometer which is actually 4 pots all rolled into one. A wedge shaped circuit board inside the valve control body has 4 carbon circuit traces providing linear resistance. Of course, the valve spends more of it's time in idle or low RPM position than high RPM positions and consequently there was a lot of carbon dirt down near the closed position. Carbon is conductive and I've been thinking this is probably the cause of failure in my throttle valve.

Pencil erasers are my best friend when working on corroded circuits and since they're designed to pick up graphite from pencils, a conductive form of carbon, they are ideally suited to cleaning this mess up. I scrubbed all of the carbon that was between the circuit traces off the board in a few moments with a couple of pencil erasers and clipped everything back together.

I have not, however, tried recalibrating the car to use this yet. But IMO, if you're looking at a $1,000 throttle valve replacement try this first. If that doesn't work the Chinese throttle valve I ordered via Amazon linked above has worked flawlessly. So at $70 + shipping it's an affordable alternative.

As an aside, I have not seen a lot of the 3.2 motors show up at the junk yards. In fact, only the one I found recently. I was a little surprised at that. It was used in a bunch of models and given the intake carbon buildup problem I anticipated finding several low-miles motors that people just gave up on. They're a rare bird in the yards I frequent. I find that strangely heartening even though my FSI has been a tempermental thing requiring a lot of cooing and soothing to keep it running without throwing nuisance codes.

[Sodium]

Well, here's one for the really-annoying book.

I've been hunting intermittent P0106 codes for a year now replacing the sensor, vacuum lines, rubber seals, throttle valve etc.

(fwiw, the throttle valve did have that intermittent flutter that I was able to eliminate by replacing it. However, I also took it apart and discovered that the little carbon resistor paths that provide position sensing wear off a little over time creating carbon dust that creates short circuits. So repair involves using a pencil eraser to clean up the carbon dust. Note to self.)

I finally eliminated the problem. The NEW sensor was a mismatched part. It was physically identical but the wrong range of values or somesuch. Weirdly the engine seemed to run fine with it so it must be close but produce "implausible signal" at some point in the RPM range where vacuum develops outside it's performance range.

The WRONG part is:
BPK
0 261 230 095
816
03C 906 051

The RIGHT part is:
BOSCH
0 261 230 234
816
150822T112117C

In any case I was sold the wrong part as a match for my car and engine. Buyer beware. OMG this has been a long slog finding that problem.

I will also mention that when hunting the source of the P0106 I ran across some people mentioning that the 03C part code was another source of mismatch and that 03C was the correct value. That advice was one reason I did not question the new sensor sooner.

Turns out Amazon has the correct sensor currently listed for $20.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0261230...dp/B00BJLGYOU/

Here's a few search terms to help other find this.

3.2 FSI P0106 P-0106 MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor