VDO Boost Gauge install.. can u guys help me figure this out.

[Diggity_Dave]

So over the last few weeks it felt like I've gradually been losing any resemblance of boost.
So I did this (I know it looks like shit in there... my car is in desperate need of some TLC)



and in doing that I found two leaks.. and both on Check valves that had were basically just crumbled plastic, the leak coming out of this completely shot Check Valve was massive

Luckily, suspecting that I needed to replace some of these I ordered several from ECS 6 days ago and are set to arrive today (I love shipment tracking ) So I will be replacing the two Check Valves and praying that solves my problem.

Thank you for being patient with me, now on to problem #2 - installing the VDO gauge I should have done years ago (I know all you guys say if you do anything to your car, let the first thing you do be a boost gauge) but honestly I've just been putting it off forever and sort of assuming that when the turbo was working, it was probably working pretty close to optimal.. LOL I should know better.. I know. Anyways, here is a pic of the instructions they sent me and what I think it seems I'm missing (deepest apologies for a real crappy pick.. its the best I could get)




and here I laid out what they actually sent me



Please don't laugh at me, I've never installed a boost gauge before. I can follow directions pretty well, but I'm not very good at improvising. Am I missing parts or are the directions for this thing not really for the parts they sent me? I greatly appreciate any and all help.

[danphines]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2365126

[Seerlah]

I used that same write up for my first boost gauge. Just take your time cutting the vent, if you are going that route. If you don't, it will more than likely end up looking like crap. Mine came out rather nice, and sold it to a different forum member a whiles back. And for power, I would just add wireing and wrap it around the fuse for one of your parking lights. That's what I did, and the gauge will light up with the rest of the interior lights when the headlight switch is turned to first click (parking lights and interior lights come on). Good Luck!

[coolgraymemo]

I got the same things too. I bought a column pod though.

[Diggity_Dave]

though, I'm sorry.. What I'm trying to say is I don't seem to have the connector pieces that connect the tubing to the back of the Gauge itself.. Unless I'm just supposed to ram the tubing into one of those 90 degree brass fittings and screw it onto the back of the gauge.. But in the directions they have (on the pic above) they show two Sealing nuts and two Ferrules that you use to plug into the NPT adapters.... I don't have any of that.. All I got were these two damn 90 degree brass fittings.. thats the only hardware I have. Sigh.. If that makes any sense and you can help I greatly appreciate it, otherwise I'll call ECS and see what they say.

Oh and Seerlah, I bought the Vent POD to go with it.. Got that one all installed already..

Thanks Guys

[revolution337]

I used that same write up for my first boost gauge. Just take your time cutting the vent, if you are going that route. If you don't, it will more than likely end up looking like crap. Mine came out rather nice, and sold it to a different forum member a whiles back. And for power, I would just add wireing and wrap it around the fuse for one of your parking lights. That's what I did, and the gauge will light up with the rest of the interior lights when the headlight switch is turned to first click (parking lights and interior lights come on). Good Luck!

I tapped into the fuse for the license plate lights (come on the same time are parking/headlights) with one of these. Made it much easier



And also, I tapped into the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line simply because it was closer to the firewall. Good luck

[Seerlah]

No idea why they sent you 2 barb fittings, but you have it correct. Simply thread it onto the back of the gauge, place the vacuum line on there, and secure it with a zip tie. The electrical connections on the bulb housing is just to power light for the gauge. You can use either side of it for the ground or posotive, does not matter.

On another note, I would suggest you replace that light before installation because it sucks. I purchased mine from superbrightled. Just pop the little black bulb housing out (it can be stubborn, but really just pops out. if you break it, I might have a spare one laying around), and replace bulb with one of your choice. Just a suggestion, because I highly doubt you will be happy or content with the light output of the bulb that comes with the kit.

[Diggity_Dave]

No idea why they sent you 2 barb fittings, but you have it correct. Simply thread it onto the back of the gauge, place the vacuum line on there, and secure it with a zip tie. The electrical connections on the bulb housing is just to power light for the gauge. You can use either side of it for the ground or posotive, does not matter.

On another note, I would suggest you replace that light before installation because it sucks. I purchased mine from superbrightled. Just pop the little black bulb housing out (it can be stubborn, but really just pops out. if you break it, I might have a spare one laying around), and replace bulb with one of your choice. Just a suggestion, because I highly doubt you will be happy or content with the light output of the bulb that comes with the kit.

Ok, seriously I'm sorry.. I must not be getting this.. Seerlah what am I supposed to ziptie.. all I have are these 90 degree brass fittings. They are the correct size to screw onto the back of the gauge, but sure doesn't seem like its going to be an air tight seal with the hose just stuffed in it. But there isn't anythying I can ziptie..
Let me post a pic right quick..
This is all i have that could connect hose to the gauge

And on the light part, yes I had spoke to ECS when I ordered it and they said it came with a white light, but that I could replace it with this http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/194r_Led/ so that should be arriving today too.

Thanks Seerlah

[somebody5788]

Get the Red LED back light so it matches the gauges

oops

[Seerlah]

You use the zip tie in the form of a clamp, and tighten it over the barb part of the fitting and the vacuum hose that would seat over it. That would fix your dilemma of it not being air tight.

[Diggity_Dave]

Get the Red LED back light so it matches the gauges

oops

lol
Thank you though

You use the zip tie in the form of a clamp, and tighten it over the barb part of the fitting and the vacuum hose that would seat over it. That would fix your dilemma of it not being air tight.

ok, I thought I was putting the nylon hose into the barb, thats what their instructions show.. but sounds like I'm supposed to attach one of the small vacuum hoses they supplied over the barb (then yes I agree I can zip tie that down lol) I should be able to just do this I know, but the directions they supply suck! Thanks for the help guys I will go try to finish this.

[Seerlah]

Do yourself a favor and throw those directions in the garbage. We'll help you out.

[DRock3d]

Wire it to the vent control lights or to the 75x and the bolt next to the fuse panel for a clean and easy job

[danphines]

Do yourself a favor and throw those directions in the garbage. We'll help you out.

Throw out whatever camera you have been using as well.

[Diggity_Dave]

Thanks everyone.. just waiting on mr Fedex now for the light replacement... and

Throw out whatever camera you have been using as well.

Ouch!

[revolution337]

Wire it to the vent control lights or to the 75x and the bolt next to the fuse panel for a clean and easy job

Pretty sure hes pre-facelift so thats a no-go. I wouldn't recommend tapping into those wires anyways.

[Diggity_Dave]

I am pre-facelift, and I didn't know what he was talking about anyways sounded pretty slick n sweet though

[Diggity_Dave]

Seerlah, I tried to go the route I think you said you did, and just tap into the fuse for the brake lights (is that right?).. I get power to the gauge, problem is it never turns off. doors closed, key out of ignition, no other lights on in the car, nothing.. and the gauge is still lit up . What am I doing wrong guys? Maybe I'll try to locate the fuse to the taillight as also mentioned?

[dbarbau89]

don't the fuses, whatever they may be, always receive power? if you measure the fuse for the tail lights with a voltmeter you will get a reading regardless of whether or not the tail lights are on. power is not cut or engaged at the fuse box. correct me if im wrong. if you tap into a fuse you will receive a constant 12 v

[revolution337]

OP, which fuse are you tapping into? there should be a chart on the panel that covers the fuse area that has a diagram to tell you which fuse it is.

[Seerlah]

don't the fuses, whatever they may be, always receive power? if you measure the fuse for the tail lights with a voltmeter you will get a reading regardless of whether or not the tail lights are on. power is not cut or engaged at the fuse box. correct me if im wrong. if you tap into a fuse you will receive a constant 12 v

You're wrong, you won't get constant feed. Not sure how the circuitry works on our vehicle, but the fuses for whatever circuit they were dsigned for on our vehicle, does not recieve posotive feed till turned on. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on the shcmatics of our vehicle (cough*Walky*cough) can chimme in and enlighten us as to how and why.

[Diggity_Dave]

OP, which fuse are you tapping into? there should be a chart on the panel that covers the fuse area that has a diagram to tell you which fuse it is.

revolution I tapped into the fuse #13 "Brakes" 10amp

[revolution337]

When do you want the light on the gauge to come on? key on? only when other interior lights come on?

If the latter, tap into the fuse for the parking lights or the license plate lights.

[Diggity_Dave]

yes I would like the gauge light to only come on when the rest of my cluster comes on.. so whenever i turn my headlight lever up one notch or more I guess. So the licenese plate fuse should get that done? I'll give that one a shot.

Thanks for all the quick responses.. I'm now working via headlamp, because I really want to get this done tonight.

[revolution337]

Yes the license plate fuse should do exactly that. Thats how I've had mine for over a year now with no problems.

[Diggity_Dave]

I tapped into the fuse for the license plate lights (come on the same time are parking/headlights) with one of these. Made it much easier

revolution, where did you get that little adapter or whatever thats called?

[revolution337]

Any local autoparts store carries them. Personally, I got it at autozone, but I've seen them at advanced auto and pep boys too.

edit: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...entifier=32414

[Diggity_Dave]

ok thanks for all the help Everyone.. I have good news and bad news.. Good news is with all your help the gauge is up and functioning, bad news is replacing the Check valve has not solved my 0 boost problem.. and now I officially know its 0 BOOST... the new nifty gauge confirms it LOL. Its getting late and I didn't want to pop the hood one more time and run a boost leak test.. I'll do it in the AM. I have a brand new N75 and a new DV and a new TIP. I guess Wastegate, actuator rod etc is the next thing to look at the ROD looked fine from a visual, no clue about the Wastegate though.. Ugh!

Thanks for all the gauge help.. you guys are a wealth of knowledge

[waveblaster200]

ok thanks for all the help Everyone.. I have good news and bad news.. Good news is with all your help the gauge is up and functioning, bad news is replacing the Check valve has not solved my 0 boost problem.. and now I officially know its 0 BOOST... the new nifty gauge confirms it LOL. Its getting late and I didn't want to pop the hood one more time and run a boost leak test.. I'll do it in the AM. I have a brand new N75 and a new DV and a new TIP. I guess Wastegate, actuator rod etc is the next thing to look at the ROD looked fine from a visual, no clue about the Wastegate though.. Ugh!

Thanks for all the gauge help.. you guys are a wealth of knowledge

How many miles are on the Turbo? My K03 died a slow death over a year slowly losing boost, took me forever to finally figure out that it was the turbo not just a leak or something plus I didn't want to convince my self to buy a new turbo either lol. Check for shaft play in and out mine had none but it had a little side to side barley noticeable but plenty which kept it from spooling over time. Just a idea, I wired my autometer boost gauge light to my lic plate fuse too, works great!