Tools Needed:
-Phillips Head Screw Driver
-Right Angle Pick
-T30 1/4" Torx Socket
-1/4” Ratchet
-Flashlight
-Telescoping Mirror
Parts:
The camshaft position sensor is a simple Hall-Effect sensor that reads cam position based on metal protrusions from the end of the cam. It has a three pin electrical connector and is held on with two bolts
Part Number: 058 905 161B
Passenger Side
Step 1: Remove Engine Covers
I normally just leave my engine covers off, so no pictures for this step but it’s easy enough.
Step 2: Open Timing Belt Cover
On the passenger side of the motor, the camshaft position sensor is located under the upper timing belt cover.
First remove the intake snorkle, two phillips head screws in the radiator support and it should angle right out.
To open the cover simply locate the two clips shown below and pry them up with the right angle pick.
With these clips loosened the cover can be leaned back which will allow sufficient clearance to get at the sensor.
Step 3: Remove Retaining Bolts
The sensor is held in with two bolts, roughly at 2 o’clock and 8 o’clock. They are lightly torqued T30 bolts, a short 1/4" ratchet should take care of it fine.
The 8 o’clock bolt is easy enough to get to, I used a flashlight to spot in from over the radiator support, and then one had to support the head of the ratchet while breaking it loose. The positioning is shown below.
The 2 o’clock bolt is in a tougher spot, line it up similarly by looking over the radiator support and crack it loose.
After cracking them loose I recommend unthreaded them by hand. You want to be very careful to not drop these bolts down into the timing belt area. Maybe have a telescoping magnetic pickup on them so if you let it fall it won’t go anywhere.
Step 4: Unclip Sensor from Wiring Harness
Before you can spin the sensor off the cam end you need to unclip the sensor from the harness. It’s a rather simple plug (nice change from lots of the other style clips), just push the bare metal wire piece and it should pop loose.
Step 5: Remove Sensor
No pictures for the final steps, basically all you have to do is rotate the sensor clockwise slightly so that the small metal bracket (maybe a safety measure to keep the sensor from falling off) is no longer over the 2 o’clock bolt hole. If you look at the assembly you should be able to see it. Don’t tug or pry on the sensor, if you rotate it properly it should come off easily. You don’t want to bend up the tabs on the end of the came (those are what the Hall Effect sensor uses to read position).
Step 6: Reassembly
Once the sensor is out re-assembly is reversed, simply place the sensor on with the electrical connector facing around 4 o’clock and rotate up making sure the 2 o’clock bolt tab goes under the metal bracket. It should be on there well enough that it won’t fall.
In order to properly clock the sensor up, I used a small telescoping mirror with the end tilted up so I could see the 8 o’clock bolt hole. Once lined up thread the bolts in and tighten snugly (not sure of the torque spec, shouldn’t be much considering there is no gasket or seal to be concerned with).
Place the wiring harness connector back on by pressing the metal wire down and slipping it over the connector.
Snap the timing belt cover back into place and reinstall the engine covers. Start it up and make sure everything is good.
Driver Side
Step 1: Remove Engine Covers
I normally just leave my engine covers off, so no pictures for this step but it’s easy enough.
Step 2: Remove Retaining Bolts
The driver’s side sensor is a bit more direct than the passenger side sensor. It is located on the back of the cylinder head to the right of the PCV valve.
Like the passenger side there are two T30 bolts holding the sensor onto the head. Since the sensor has flipped around now the flanges and bolts are at 10 o’clock and 4 o’clock if you were to look from the nose towards the cabin. Both of them are a bit tight but not too hard to get to.
For the upper bolt just line up the bit in there and then you’ll need to force the ratchet handle against the coolant tubing and wiring harness behind the motor.
The lower bolt is similar, I found it easiest to lean over the motor and guide the head of the T30 bit into the bolt head by running my arm behind the motor under the coolant expansion tank (arm should be on the valve cover).
After cracking them loose, unthread by hand (so you don’t lose the bolts), and the sensor should be mostly ready to remove.
Step 3: Unclip Sensor from Wiring Harness
Before you can spin the sensor off the cam end you need to unclip the sensor from the harness. It’s a rather simple plug, just push the bare metal wire piece and it should pop loose.
Step 4: Remove Sensor
No pictures here, not much to see. Unlike the passenger side there is no metal bracket holding the sensor snug, but rotation is still necessary y. Don’t tug or pry on the sensor, if you rotate it properly it should come off easily. You don’t want to bend up the tabs on the end of the came (those are what the Hall Effect sensor uses to read position).
Step 5: Reassembly
Once the sensor is out re-assembly is reversed, simply place the sensor on with the electrical connector facing around 8 o’clock and rotate up making sure the 10 o’clock bolt tab goes under the metal bracket. It should be on there well enough that it won’t fall.
In order to properly clock the sensor up, I used a small telescoping mirror with the end tilted up so I could see the 10 o’clock bolt hole. Once lined up thread the bolts in and tighten snugly (not sure of the torque spec, shouldn’t be much considering there is no gasket or seal to be concerned with).
Place the wiring harness connector back on by pressing the metal wire down and slipping it over the connector.
Reinstall the engine covers. Start it up and make sure everything is good.
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