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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings orafalcons's Avatar
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    Threw a P000A "Camshaft Position Slow" Code. Please tell me...

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    that this is covered under the camshaft follower warranty. P000A Camshaft Position Slow / Response Bank 1. My VIN# is in the covered range 2006. Has anyone else had this code or does anyone know what could be the problem? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in Advance!
    2006 Brilliant Red A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT - Autospeed Custom Exhaust / Carbonio CAI / RS4 Rear Sway / Debadged / 20% Tint

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Nope, just had this about two weeks ago. Turns out to be the camshaft positioner is what went bad. Audi dealer and AOA both said nothing to due with cam follower, had to pay to have a new positioner valve put in, and had BG engine flush done at same time.
    I sat on phone with an AOA rep for 30 min discussing the issue and he was an awesome guy to deal with; but unfortunatley AOAknows the certain codes that they feel warrant the cam folllower replacement and this code isnt one of them. Def go get this taken care of.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings orafalcons's Avatar
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    Thanks. How much was it with everything you had done?
    2006 Brilliant Red A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT - Autospeed Custom Exhaust / Carbonio CAI / RS4 Rear Sway / Debadged / 20% Tint

  4. #4
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    valve replace
    bg engine flush
    oil/filter change
    labor

    $560 (gotta love the stealerships)

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings thenofjboy's Avatar
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    edit..

    I originally thought the cam position sensor was on the front of the engine but ECS's description says " the sensor is "Located on the side of the camshaft in the cylinder head. " sooo im not sure now haha I still think its on the front of the head, I have to look

    Just for number sake, the BG induction service cleaning goes for aorund $140 and takes a couple hours. Ill be getting this done soon.
    Last edited by thenofjboy; 05-18-2011 at 03:52 PM.
    Sean

    The New
    B7---GIAC--BBS--DDM--JHM+S4Exhaust--StaSIS SS--034--AudiUP--USP--RedEBC--IE--DrakesVC#12--B7S4 Brakes--StopTech--GFB DV+--

    The Old
    B5---GIAC-K04--RACETEC--APR--DEPO--AUTOTECH--VMR--FORGE--034--H&R--BILSTEIN--FUJITA

  6. #6
    Established Member Three Rings b7kevin's Avatar
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    The above post is VERY incorrect.

    Actually the part cost like $106 and is a clip and a single bolt. It takes under 5 minutes, you'll be done before you finish your beer.

    This part is known as the N205 and controls the advancement and retard of the cams. Its uses engine oil pressure to operate.

    Heres the part # 06F109257C

    Heres the image.

    2006 A4 Brilliant Black 6MT
    - Revo Stage 2+ - AWE HPFP - ST Coils - K&N - 034 TIP - Newsouth Vent Gauge - Neuspeed Snub - OEM DV Upgrade - E-Code test pipe - AWE Quad tip - s4 rear valance - de-badged - vag'd -

    -Wake up an address the biggest issue of our freedom. National DEBT.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings orafalcons's Avatar
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    06 A4 S-Line, 06 Ducati Monster 620
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    Any idea where I can get that part kevin? I saw your thread in a search from a while back... Did this fix the issues you were having? Any way you could take a picture of where exactly it is in the engine bay?

    Thanks and Thanks in advance.
    2006 Brilliant Red A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT - Autospeed Custom Exhaust / Carbonio CAI / RS4 Rear Sway / Debadged / 20% Tint

  8. #8
    Established Member Three Rings b7kevin's Avatar
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    My mill came back literally the other day, there are a few new post on vortex surrounding the issue as well. geniuneaudiparts.com has the best price, although double check that, I failed to factor in shipping.

    As far as location, stand by the passenger side fender. Near the back of the motor, close to the firewall, you will see a small silver cylinder sticking out of that 'vacuum housing'. Its right on top, to think of it almost inline with the coil packs. All you have to do to swap it is disconnect the sensor, and remove the one bolt. Should slide right out.

    I haven't fixed the issue to be honest. I clear the mill and continue on my way, but after MUCH research, 3 forums, the above is what I have deduced.

    I plan on buying it next week and can do a DIY, just have little free time these days living in the corporate world.
    2006 A4 Brilliant Black 6MT
    - Revo Stage 2+ - AWE HPFP - ST Coils - K&N - 034 TIP - Newsouth Vent Gauge - Neuspeed Snub - OEM DV Upgrade - E-Code test pipe - AWE Quad tip - s4 rear valance - de-badged - vag'd -

    -Wake up an address the biggest issue of our freedom. National DEBT.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings orafalcons's Avatar
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    http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...-Slow-Response
    Just read on Fourtitude about a guy saying he threw the same code and it was due to his oil inlet screen being clogged. He mentioned that he cleaned it out and changed the oil and the code went away.
    Any knowledge on this or do you still think it has to do with the control valve? Both of these are relatively cheap fixes so I may just do them both and see if it helps anything.
    Let me know if you find anything else...
    2006 Brilliant Red A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT - Autospeed Custom Exhaust / Carbonio CAI / RS4 Rear Sway / Debadged / 20% Tint

  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings dzombek's Avatar
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    So did you notice much difference with the bg engine flush?

    -Z

    Quote Originally Posted by wrxmyers View Post
    valve replace
    bg engine flush
    oil/filter change
    labor

    $560 (gotta love the stealerships)

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4dc89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dzombek View Post
    So did you notice much difference with the bg engine flush?

    -Z
    Im curious about the same thing
    2006 A4 B7 2.0TQ Dolphin Gray Metallic 6MT

    REVO Stage II, 034 HFC, AEM turbo inlet/intake, OEM Piston DV, BSH PCV Fix, HID Fogs/Fog Mod, AWE Boost Gauge, Debadge

    All go no show

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings bengtc's Avatar
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    DId you recently do your timing belt, I got that error when my belt was off a tooth.

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
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    idle/acceleration feel a lot smoother. no oil seeping out the cap since it was done also.

  14. #14
    Established Member Three Rings b7kevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bengtc View Post
    DId you recently do your timing belt, I got that error when my belt was off a tooth.

    You are 100% correct. If you have not done the timing belt this doesn't apply. However if you have this little code is your engine saving god. Thanks for adding this for future people to research.
    2006 A4 Brilliant Black 6MT
    - Revo Stage 2+ - AWE HPFP - ST Coils - K&N - 034 TIP - Newsouth Vent Gauge - Neuspeed Snub - OEM DV Upgrade - E-Code test pipe - AWE Quad tip - s4 rear valance - de-badged - vag'd -

    -Wake up an address the biggest issue of our freedom. National DEBT.

  15. #15
    Registered Member One Ring
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    These post may be incorrect. I have changed out the sensors and i still have had the same problem. You need to check your timing chain adjuster unit housing, There is a part inside of the housing that sticks out kinda like stick for the timing chain adjuster unit to rotate on, There are 3 oil sealing rings that should be sealing around your the stick inside the timing chain adjuster housing. It beats the dealership telling you to spend $600+ for a new housing because it might become broken again. https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2726697/

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings Cobra351's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phurred View Post
    These post may be incorrect. I have changed out the sensors and i still have had the same problem. You need to check your timing chain adjuster unit housing, There is a part inside of the housing that sticks out kinda like stick for the timing chain adjuster unit to rotate on, There are 3 oil sealing rings that should be sealing around your the stick inside the timing chain adjuster housing. It beats the dealership telling you to spend $600+ for a new housing because it might become broken again. https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2726697/
    Got this code today. Are you saying that you had the same code as below and in the OP, and it ended up being just 3 o-rings for your housing?
    000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
    P000A - 008 - Slow Response
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 01101000
    Fault Priority: 0
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 255
    Mileage: 218952 km
    Time Indication: 0

    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 2174 /min
    Load: 61.9 %
    Speed: 43.0 km/h
    Temperature: 99.0°C
    Temperature: 37.0°C
    Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
    Voltage: 13.208 V

    Readiness: 0000 0001

  17. #17
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra351 View Post
    Got this code today. Are you saying that you had the same code as below and in the OP, and it ended up being just 3 o-rings for your housing?
    I also just got this today,
    I've had to replace the N205 on two Mk V 2.5 Jetta's, so I'm guessing its the solenoid?

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Yep, check there is no oil in thh connecter, but either way a new N205 should be what is needed assuming your cam is fine. Is your timing chain making noise?
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by orafalcons View Post
    http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...-Slow-Response
    Just read on Fourtitude about a guy saying he threw the same code and it was due to his oil inlet screen being clogged. He mentioned that he cleaned it out and changed the oil and the code went away.
    Any knowledge on this or do you still think it has to do with the control valve? Both of these are relatively cheap fixes so I may just do them both and see if it helps anything.
    Let me know if you find anything else...

    This could be an old post, but for future, whenever someone comes across this trying to figure out their problem,

    Yes clogged pickup tube will cause this.

    Any kind of clogged oil port or hose or anything can cause it.

    Your cam adjuster is what runs your VVT system. The way it works is through oil pressure. It pumps oil into that cam adjuster and then it makes adjustments on the cam, advancing and retarding the timing. It’s like vtec, but a different design of a system. But basically accomplishes the same thing. Low rpm, it adjusts to run more economy style and gas saving and such, high rpms, it adjusts to allow more fuel and air mix, together with forced induction from turbo, and it basically simulated having an oversized cam installed. Like you’d do on an old time hot rod, to the head of their v8. That’s what makes em flood and “lope”. Huge cam dumping massive doses of mix, it floods to death and acts like it barely runs til u open the throttle up.

    In our cars itÂ’s not that drastic of an adjustment, but itÂ’s basically the same idea.

    So, say you have the pickup tube clogged up,

    When you rev the motor, itÂ’s pulling just a fraction of oil up instead of the full amount. Well then the oil goes to the head to lube the cams and all the moving parts, but because itÂ’s not the full dose of oil, there not enough oil coming up and into the cam adjuster to pressurize it, and make it adjust.

    What would happen, is it would pressurize eventually, but would take longer because the oil is coming at a slow rate, instead of all st once.

    Your computer and sensor is reading and logging, and it knows, when you revved rpms xxxx high, it should have made its adjustment, at a certain exact point. But yours was slow, cause it took longer to get oil into it. In a nutshell, your adjustment was made (example only) at well say 5000rpm, when normal it would adjust at 3000rpm.

    Computer is programmed to read the adjust at 3k, but it didnÂ’t see it until 5k, and the computer alerts you to say, your bout to have problems. Most likely an oil pressure issue.

    Any issue with oil pressure can cause this,
    Any situation your dash flashes (oil pressure warning)

    Being low on oil
    Having a leak ultimately dropping low of oil,
    Wrong weight of oil, if you put super thin oil in or something
    Oil port clogged
    Pickup tube clogged
    Oil pump seize up (very common btw, I changed mine myself)
    Having the wrong size oil filter,
    3 rings inside the vacuum cover timing case thing, that slides inside the cam adjuster, they break easy.
    The sensor right there that was mentioned earlier,
    Probabaly even a blown head gasket where oil is being burnt or draining into the wrong jackets or something. But thatÂ’s all oil issues and a lot doesnÂ’t happen all that often.

    Low oil pressure, takes longer to pressurize the cam adjuster, which makes it adjust later than normal, so it trips that code. Saying, the timing adjustment came slow.

    Now besides oil,

    You have a cam sensor that could be going bad,
    Sensor plug corroded
    Wiring burnt or broke

    If itÂ’s 120k miles and up and on old timing system,

    Timing belt stretch, could let it go a tooth outta time,
    The chain in the back stretch
    Belt or chain tensioner going bad (which work on oil pressure too, and canÂ’t tension up without oil pressure.
    And RARE computer is malfunctioning.

    Best way to tackle this issue, is to start smallest and eliminate.

    Check oil level, have you lately put the motor back together as to havingto use rtv sealant?
    IÂ’ve plugged oil ports up with rtv.
    Check timing belt marks and make sure they are still lined up. Check for stretching and check water pump and bearing and pulleys for play, check cam gear and crank gear for broken teeth.
    Check everywhere for leaking oil.
    Look up how to test the cam sensor with meter.
    Check wiring and plugs and clean em and dry em out,
    Pull off the vacuum timing chain housing, check if gasket is bad, check those 3 rings cause they break very easily..

    Most likely itÂ’s gonna be something simple like this, and your oil level most likely is gonna be the root cause. You just must figure out where the oil is going and correct that issue.

    More rare, but still happens, your pickup is clogged, which is a big job,

    Basically gotta pull the front end and clip and everything from car to expose motor, I drop my subframe, sway bar, unbolt all my mounts and hoist motor up as high as I can get it, to get oil pan off the bottom. All that is mostly require to remove oil pan. They have a cross member right across em and only like a quarter inch gap between.

    These pickup tubes are easily clogged up, very easy and has to be cleaned.

    Oil pump assembly is in the oil pan, has two cogs that run on chains with the crank. The first cog spins a series of counterweights, to help with engine vibration and such, and the second cog is the oil pump.
    The balance shafts seize up and the crank snaps the bolt that holds that first cog on, therefore the chain is slack, and it slips on the pump cog not turning it at all.

    U would know if this happened, cause IÂ’d hear the seize up of the shafts and the snap of the bolt. Immediately youÂ’d get a oil pressure light that wonÂ’t go back off, and after a few minutes if u kept running it, the top end would begin grinding and making noise, cause no oil is getting to the oil to live anythjng, so the cams start grinding and eating away the head , the moving parts get no lube and make noise, and due to no oil pressure, the chain would slap around because it would be loose. The tensioner canÂ’t pressurize and tighten the chain up. You would know.

    Start easy first, do the checks and stuff up top cause itÂ’s the easiest jobs to do, eliminate everything 1 by 1

    ItÂ’s gonna be an oil issue, low oil probabaly, but like I said, you gotta find where your oil is going and fix that. Either that, or

    Your pickup tube is gonna be clogged because their a design flaw and they sludge regularly. Hopefully itÂ’s something up top for your sake. But it can be done. I learned these cars by taking mine apart and figurejng it out.

    YouTube helps TONS.

    Sorry for the novel, hope it helps someone tho

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings FatMongo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bdelauder1987 View Post
    This could be an old post, but for future, whenever someone comes across this trying to figure out their problem,

    Yes clogged pickup tube will cause this.

    Any kind of clogged oil port or hose or anything can cause it.

    Your cam adjuster is what runs your VVT system. The way it works is through oil pressure. It pumps oil into that cam adjuster and then it makes adjustments on the cam, advancing and retarding the timing. It’s like vtec, but a different design of a system. But basically accomplishes the same thing. Low rpm, it adjusts to run more economy style and gas saving and such, high rpms, it adjusts to allow more fuel and air mix, together with forced induction from turbo, and it basically simulated having an oversized cam installed. Like you’d do on an old time hot rod, to the head of their v8. That’s what makes em flood and “lope”. Huge cam dumping massive doses of mix, it floods to death and acts like it barely runs til u open the throttle up.

    In our cars itÂ’s not that drastic of an adjustment, but itÂ’s basically the same idea.

    So, say you have the pickup tube clogged up,

    When you rev the motor, itÂ’s pulling just a fraction of oil up instead of the full amount. Well then the oil goes to the head to lube the cams and all the moving parts, but because itÂ’s not the full dose of oil, there not enough oil coming up and into the cam adjuster to pressurize it, and make it adjust.

    What would happen, is it would pressurize eventually, but would take longer because the oil is coming at a slow rate, instead of all st once.

    Your computer and sensor is reading and logging, and it knows, when you revved rpms xxxx high, it should have made its adjustment, at a certain exact point. But yours was slow, cause it took longer to get oil into it. In a nutshell, your adjustment was made (example only) at well say 5000rpm, when normal it would adjust at 3000rpm.

    Computer is programmed to read the adjust at 3k, but it didnÂ’t see it until 5k, and the computer alerts you to say, your bout to have problems. Most likely an oil pressure issue.

    Any issue with oil pressure can cause this,
    Any situation your dash flashes (oil pressure warning)

    Being low on oil
    Having a leak ultimately dropping low of oil,
    Wrong weight of oil, if you put super thin oil in or something
    Oil port clogged
    Pickup tube clogged
    Oil pump seize up (very common btw, I changed mine myself)
    Having the wrong size oil filter,
    3 rings inside the vacuum cover timing case thing, that slides inside the cam adjuster, they break easy.
    The sensor right there that was mentioned earlier,
    Probabaly even a blown head gasket where oil is being burnt or draining into the wrong jackets or something. But thatÂ’s all oil issues and a lot doesnÂ’t happen all that often.

    Low oil pressure, takes longer to pressurize the cam adjuster, which makes it adjust later than normal, so it trips that code. Saying, the timing adjustment came slow.

    Now besides oil,

    You have a cam sensor that could be going bad,
    Sensor plug corroded
    Wiring burnt or broke

    If itÂ’s 120k miles and up and on old timing system,

    Timing belt stretch, could let it go a tooth outta time,
    The chain in the back stretch
    Belt or chain tensioner going bad (which work on oil pressure too, and canÂ’t tension up without oil pressure.
    And RARE computer is malfunctioning.

    Best way to tackle this issue, is to start smallest and eliminate.

    Check oil level, have you lately put the motor back together as to havingto use rtv sealant?
    IÂ’ve plugged oil ports up with rtv.
    Check timing belt marks and make sure they are still lined up. Check for stretching and check water pump and bearing and pulleys for play, check cam gear and crank gear for broken teeth.
    Check everywhere for leaking oil.
    Look up how to test the cam sensor with meter.
    Check wiring and plugs and clean em and dry em out,
    Pull off the vacuum timing chain housing, check if gasket is bad, check those 3 rings cause they break very easily..

    Most likely itÂ’s gonna be something simple like this, and your oil level most likely is gonna be the root cause. You just must figure out where the oil is going and correct that issue.

    More rare, but still happens, your pickup is clogged, which is a big job,

    Basically gotta pull the front end and clip and everything from car to expose motor, I drop my subframe, sway bar, unbolt all my mounts and hoist motor up as high as I can get it, to get oil pan off the bottom. All that is mostly require to remove oil pan. They have a cross member right across em and only like a quarter inch gap between.

    These pickup tubes are easily clogged up, very easy and has to be cleaned.

    Oil pump assembly is in the oil pan, has two cogs that run on chains with the crank. The first cog spins a series of counterweights, to help with engine vibration and such, and the second cog is the oil pump.
    The balance shafts seize up and the crank snaps the bolt that holds that first cog on, therefore the chain is slack, and it slips on the pump cog not turning it at all.

    U would know if this happened, cause IÂ’d hear the seize up of the shafts and the snap of the bolt. Immediately youÂ’d get a oil pressure light that wonÂ’t go back off, and after a few minutes if u kept running it, the top end would begin grinding and making noise, cause no oil is getting to the oil to live anythjng, so the cams start grinding and eating away the head , the moving parts get no lube and make noise, and due to no oil pressure, the chain would slap around because it would be loose. The tensioner canÂ’t pressurize and tighten the chain up. You would know.

    Start easy first, do the checks and stuff up top cause itÂ’s the easiest jobs to do, eliminate everything 1 by 1

    ItÂ’s gonna be an oil issue, low oil probabaly, but like I said, you gotta find where your oil is going and fix that. Either that, or

    Your pickup tube is gonna be clogged because their a design flaw and they sludge regularly. Hopefully itÂ’s something up top for your sake. But it can be done. I learned these cars by taking mine apart and figurejng it out.

    YouTube helps TONS.

    Sorry for the novel, hope it helps someone tho
    Good summary.

    Im going through the same issue with my newly acquired B7. I have a P0011 code. Oil level looks fine, but not sure what oil/filter PO was running. I did a resistance check on the N205 and it failed with resistance outside of parameters, so I replaced the N205 but the MIL is still there. I feel like I can hear the chain on the back of the head making noise, so at this point I suspect a failing tensioner.

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Most likely. Problem with the b7s are they were the beginning of the 2.0tfsi motor, if u notice by 2009 in the b8s. They have revamped a lot of things, like 1 timing chain, instead of dual belt and chain, a long with other stuff.

    We were the beta engine. Which is good with me, cause I have the super beta engine, that was only made for half of 2006. The BPG Babay!!!

    Anyways, I’ve always heard my whole life, German engeneering is so superior to anyone else.

    Well... I call bullshjt.

    Not in b7 class. That day musta been let our hugely ADHD and OCD designers have this one.....

    Cause when I’m dealing with stuff with this car and noticing the way it’s made it way it’s attached with hidden bolts in impossible places,

    U know how furious I got when I realized almost every bolt had a torx head in it?
    Triple squares, poly bolts, cam locker, all those specialty tools...

    I swear I believe, every inch of this car was a design flaw, as if it was a bunch of people that think way too much into things, make it super sophisticated and complicated, which always ends up a catastrophe since all the complicated extra stuff and features added were un needed or materials were garbage.

    Example. Your cams have no lap bearing. So if ur oil pump gets, and u think I’ll continue to run it and just get your bearings to just replace em. Think again baby.

    The head and the girdle are made of aluminum. The cams ride right between them. Bare. If It goes dry, it starts friction, scraping, that’s your cams scarring, and that is also Th e cam journals in the head and girdle also scarring, eventually eating away so bad it’s ruined.

    Oil pumps have balance shafts to counter the engine vibrations.

    Extra cog to spin a shaft to spin other cogs and shafts with weighs,

    And that’s it. A bunch of moving extra junk. Relying on oil and more bearings to go out.
    Not to mention they attached the oil pump. Life blood system of the whole unit, on this same chain working on this same system. So when that shaft assembly tires out and locks up. U no longer have oil. Which ruins ur head. This is the reason that anyone that had these cars and they have a simple timing belt break. They replace the whole motor, nor junk it.

    These motors are made that there’s no clearance between pistons and fully extended valves. That’s why be hey gotta be in perfect time.

    Makes sure rhe valves aren’t extended when the piston is TDC.

    When timing goes, you can garuntee 98% you just bent a bunch of valves, and unless u know how to do valves and head jobs, it’s not something u just attempt to do.
    So most the time is a whole head, whole motor, not junk it out.


    I believe Th at every inch of this car is a design flaw.

    But for some reason it has its hooks in me, I couldn’t ever part with it, I love it like my children. This car takes a special owner. With tons of patience. No doubt.

    We have give/take relationships with these cars.

    They give us fresh shit everyday.
    We sit there and just gladly take it lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Hey btw, I did the balance shaft disconnect on my oil pump, runs great, and I can tell NO difference at all in vibration


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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    That's a long response to a 7 month old thread

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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Yeah, but I bet the next person that comes through here because they’re now having the same issues in their future, sure loves that extra info that people put in the several months down the road.

    Must be people like you being the reason you can’t find intelligent information on so many things line mod projects and upgrades and things dealing with Audi’s.... I’ve noticed there’s certain things, when brought up fishing for information or directions, are only left with warnings, and trash talking with no real reason to back up why it’s so bad. It’s always either that, or someone camping in threads waiting to troll the next person that reply’s to an old comment, as if after a certain point in time, our fickle beasts of A4s just turned perfect and stopped giving us problems.

    I guess I didn’t get that notice. I got the last recall over the airbag the other day.... but no I can’t say I’ve saw one about evolving or self repairing Audi’s.
    Wow.... that’s gonna save me so much trouble and aggravation and money, and stress. I’m excited.


    Yes. I’m thorough. I explain in fine detail to the most tiny word. I do this out of an ADHD/OCD Curse that I have. It drives me crazy to have a conversation with anyone and everything about them is half assed. They’re hygiene, they’re sentences, every task they perform even. Just half assed.

    I don’t understand that. I don’t understand why anyone would want to do anythjng in that fashion, which like I said. (ADHD/OCD). So it’s impossible for me to even attempt to be lazy enough to not finish my sentences. That’s plain sorry ness in my eyes.

    I detail like this so when you need my info, you have it and it’s easily understood. I know my shit. So I have the ability to explain these things into a 1000 page novel... much less a few long paragraphs in a forum... where people are supposed to post paragraphs.

    Because I know my shit, and I explain it so intricately and so repetitive.... you’ll rememeber it. Every single word and process for that matter.

    So here’s the thing. Since this isn’t a perfect world where nothing bad happens and our machines never break,
    Then I’ll go ahead and assume, that eventually, on the hundreds of threads That I’ve posted on replying to an old comment, and getting trolled by miserable children that has nothing better to do,

    There’s gonna be someone who is havin the very issues being spoken about (months ago) and trying to learn how to deal with it.
    Luckily for them, there’s people there like me, to do the jobs I’m doing, and help them along further...... since it’s obvious you people haven’t figured out that, it’s not about the convo with whoever posted before me, most the time it’s a write up for the future gear heads going through the issues that I had just recently conquered already, and putting effort into our brothers here to make it easier on them, so they don’t go through the stress we just experienced.

    I’ll continue to write my novels on these old posts any chance I get, as long as it’s projects or things That I have personal, experience, and expert skill, and most of all, can back up anything my mouth says. If I don’t know anything about the topic. I don’t pretend that I do.

    I hope this helps you understand, why there’s people like me, and then people like you in this Audi community.
    See the difference is, I’m hoping to relive people of the mental anguish I personally know, dealing with these cars and the many different ways I’ve chased my tail in circles on certain jobs and such.
    I learn what I learn by research, observation, hands on figuring it out, and a lot of common sense. Being ADHD/OCD gives me the u usual talent of being able to understand and work with anything and everything on A4s, (because that’s what I have, and it’s what I enjoy.)
    If I can’t enjoy something, I can’t focus on it. At all. So let’s say that in the normal world, I’d be considered by you a dumb person. Because most anything you could try to talk about, I couldn’t at all NI ABILITY to focus on it or understand it no matter how many times you explain it. It confuses me and finally I give up and forget it.
    That said, with it being my ride, I enjoy it, and it’s the extreme opposite. Maybe even sounding obsessed.
    But this is good for the ignorant people here. That has never encountered these machines, that know nothing about them, and they’re too difficult to understand to the average person.
    So I can explain it out in a way they can’t get it wrong?

    You know why people like me do thjs?

    Cause if we didn’t, all anyone would ever see is the people like you trying to make themselves feel smart and clever by being a snarky douche to random people in forums who are trying to get info out there anywhere Nd everywhere for the next person to have more chances of finding it.

    Literally the only sentence anyone would ever see is

    “Nice job bringing back to life a year old thread noob cake....”

    So to you I say,

    Grow up brother. With love I say that.
    We are all your family here, sharing a common trait. Brothers and sisters having a deep love and passion for our Audi’s, and creating a masterpiece specifically for ourselves but for the world to see and enjoy with you.
    You should never be trying to discourage anybody at all on these forums unless they’re deliberately giving wrong info, not being snarky and shitty to good people for no reason at all.
    I understand that it’s hard to realize that in everyone else’s head, they are just as much important as you, and they need these forums and threads just as much as you do, and therefore since you don’t own them, being non productive with bullying type of comments should make you ashamed of yourself.

    If u had it your way, then nobody would’ve able to fix anything on their cars, cauee these forums would be a place for trolls to sit and wait to pounce.

    Regardless what you’ve been told, just cause you don’t need the info give , doesn’t mean anyone else could use it, so if you look at it from the other point of view, it’s actually being pretty petty, immature, and selfish, to bicker at someone putting info out on a post. Regardless how old it is. Because our b7s never change Years. Any info will still be relevant and bullying someone over it, shows out in the open how narcissistic, selfish, better than everybody else, that they feel about themselves.

    How?

    What crazy person in their right mind would believe that nobody else in the world talking are relevant, and just because he said so, a thread should close down And never update after so long? Just because he needs it.

    It’s takes so much effort to have a negative attitude. It takes so much energy to be mean and crappy to anyone. Then you bring that person down and on and on and on until the whole world is ready to start a new day.
    For it to take that much effort and hard work, to cause that much tension and hurt feelings, to cause that much negativity, is completely inefficient. Why not spread love and positivity instead. It’s much easier, feels better , more pleasant and comfortable, everybody wins. Nobody’s gotta feel stupid or too ashamed to ask good questions afraid they’ll look stupid.

    Like I said, here were family. Respect and help your brothers and sisters do well. Instead of bash em, give em the info they seek. If you can’t, help them find it. There’s nothing more you should want than for one of your own to be Able to figure out what’s causing issues on his ride and fix it. Then even better, it came from a brother because he’s been through it and, here’s the magic Everyone misses... at that point, two people make a bond with each other, one being the teacher with past experience, the other being the student learning to fix it, it suddenly becomes not so scary. You got backup and support, and you know if you need to, u can holler back on the forums and most the time there’s someone there willing to walk you through it.

    We do this for way more than just a car..... if you are a true b7 guy, then you’d understand if that these cars ain’t worth the heartache dealing with it and would rid themselves of it..... it must be madness being in love with such a lemon.

    If you ever need detailed info on a project for a b7, don’t be afraid to pm me.
    If I can’t help you, then I know people who can, and there times we have spent hours all night trying to do the math and figure out problems.
    I love ya man. I hope you can overcome whatever it is that makes u unhappy or whatever


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Threw a P000A "Camshaft Position Slow" Code. Please tell me...

    Yea the sealing rings, the timing housing oil feed screen being clogged, low oil pressure in general, or a bad n205 can all cause these codes.

    Not sure we need novels on novels, but more info never hurts.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    But problem is Charles that yappies long drivel is personal opinion and highly inacurate and shows he doesn't understand the internal combustion engine and engineering in general.
    He helped zero people.
    He doesn't even understand why 99.9 % of engines are interference engines and why a timing belt is not simple.. or why they are engineered this way. Just a lot of blah blah blah frustration


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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    You read it?
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    You read it?
    Ok you caught me.. I never made it to the end of his second one..the first one I thought was just a mistake.
    But when the verbal diareaha started flowing I didn't make it to the last squirt.

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I definitely didn’t read any of it, haha.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

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