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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    How to inspect Cam? Remove vacuum pump?

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    Alright I'm on page 12 from search results already and I'm trying to find a thread that shows or says something about how to remove the vacuum pump to inspect the cam. I also have a feeling that I have an oil leak from around that area so removing it could possibly also help me determine where that leak is coming from.

    Anybody have a write-up or know how to do it? It looks like its very tightly spaced but I believe i read someone said its possible.

    EDIT: Just read a DIY on the 2.0t for the VW's and it looks like you can either remove the entire pump or just the cover. I might have to look into doing this.
    Last edited by Coderedpl; 04-07-2011 at 01:52 PM.
    Current: F80 M3 | 2018 Q7
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Right where my finger is pointing, there is a plate on the back there that you remove, then you have to inspect with a mirror. I don't have a tool this can be done with.
    2021 Audi S4, P34 Intake

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    You mean you dont have the mirror or you dont have a tool to remove the plate?

    P.S. your car sure is clean haha
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Its just like 4 torx screws, but the proximity of the firewall to said screws makes it impossible to remove without a special 90° screw driver that can fit and give you the right angle.
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings fly300kts's Avatar
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    Why do you need to remove the pump?

    Phil

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fly300kts View Post
    Why do you need to remove the pump?

    Phil
    1. I want to see which revision cam I have. A's were softer than B's. I'm starting to fear the worst when i noticed this:

    Code:
    008851 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276): Mechanical Malfunction 
                   P2293 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
                 Freeze Frame:
                        Fault Status: 00100010
                        Fault Priority: 0
                        Fault Frequency: 12
                        Mileage: 132764 km
                        Time Indication: 0
    
                 Freeze Frame:
                        RPM: 2512 /min
                        Load: 33.7 %
                        Speed: 118.0 km/h
                        Temperature: 84.0°C
                        Temperature: 15.0°C
                        Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
                        Voltage: 14.097 V
    2. I want to check if i can find my oil leak which is pretty much directly around that area
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings fly300kts's Avatar
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    I understand for the oil leak but as far as the camshaft revision, looking at your year (2006) and if never replaced, you have a "A"

    Phil

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings viziers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fly300kts View Post
    I understand for the oil leak but as far as the camshaft revision, looking at your year (2006) and if never replaced, you have a "A"

    Phil

    Not quite true Fly, as I have an 05.5 and have a "B" cam stock...


    But as for the torx just find one that is in the form as this:



    That should do ya right....






    vizi
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    Vizi - I went to my local Advance Auto Parts store today and I was actually considering getting something "similar" but was still worried it wouldn't fit as when I tried my socketed-bit and wrench, it wouldn't have enough clearance. So since the needed T-25 bit was the second one to be missing from my set and I had no idea where it ventured off I went out to the store to get a new bit set.

    What I figured out is that a tiny wrench and the bit 'itself, alone will work. I put the bit on, held it, and used a 1/4 wrench (tiny) and got the torx loose. Sure its a long process and you have to be careful not the drop the bit or the wrench but it will work. There is 4 total from what I "felt". I'm going to try and do this later if I have the time. At this point and time I strongly believe I have revision A. I'll be relieved if its B but i doubt it.
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  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings A4plosion's Avatar
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    Can't you tell which cam you have just by pulling the fuel pump and removing the follower? I will be doing this very soon. From what I have read after you pull the pump and take out the follower the end of the cam is right there. If it's two piece you have the "B" if it's one piece it's "A". I'm going to use my phone camera to take a photo since it looks like a very tight area to fit my fat head in. Did you check your PCV for leaking oil? Mine was leaking like a Beeaach. Once I changed it and the gasket the leak stopped.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4plosion View Post
    Can't you tell which cam you have just by pulling the fuel pump and removing the follower? I will be doing this very soon. From what I have read after you pull the pump and take out the follower the end of the cam is right there. If it's two piece you have the "B" if it's one piece it's "A". I'm going to use my phone camera to take a photo since it looks like a very tight area to fit my fat head in. Did you check your PCV for leaking oil? Mine was leaking like a Beeaach. Once I changed it and the gasket the leak stopped.
    Nope. You don't see the head of the cam which is how you can tell.
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  12. #12
    Active Member Two Rings A4plosion's Avatar
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    My bad, now that I think of it in order for the fuel pump to work off the cam it has to be on the side therefore when removed you will only see the side of the cam head instead of the top.
    2007 Brilliant Black A4 Quattro 2.0T 6 speed manual

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4plosion View Post
    My bad, now that I think of it in order for the fuel pump to work off the cam it has to be on the side therefore when removed you will only see the side of the cam head instead of the top.
    Yep.
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Question

    Bump for an update.

    How did you get on with the oil leak issue ?

    ( I have the same issue on me rev 'E' vac pump.)

    Was it the o-ring on the vacuum pump or the rear plate ??

    TIA.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Coderedpl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DownUnderSLine View Post
    Bump for an update.

    How did you get on with the oil leak issue ?

    ( I have the same issue on me rev 'E' vac pump.)

    Was it the o-ring on the vacuum pump or the rear plate ??

    TIA.
    I never actually got it fixed. The problem still exists. I visited a shop and they said its probably the seal inside. Not too crazy of a deal to raise eyebrows of seriousness. If it escalates into a bigger problem, then i will worry. I never got the plate off anyway. I think one of the torx nuts was stripped or something
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  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Let's see if we can revive this thread ...

    I have exactly the same oil leak issue as the descriptions in some of the previous posts. There are a lot of conduits below the pump and they are all oily as is the bottom part of the back plate. It seems that the leak comes from the back plate and not from the junction of the pump to the cylinder head housing. (In other words the culprit is not the pump seal.) Does anyone know what seals the back plate to the pump? Is it a gasket (has to be replaced upon disassembly) or a seal (reusable)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Hristo

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    i just replaced my vacuum pump and threw my 2 cents into this thread....

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post7971687

    I thought about changing the o-ring but read a couple of reports where replacing that several times and still having a leak. I was torn between giving it a shot and just replacing the pump because $15 vs $200 is a big spread. But I bit the bullet and went with the new pump so I could just put this to bed. It's been 1 1/2 weeks and not a drop of oil back there. Cleaned the top of my tranny so I'd know....not spotless, but its nice to look back there and see silver.

    The o-ring is totally compressed and the stain on the pump leads me to believe that I could have just replaced the o-ring and have solved my issue. But not having an oil leak has made me happy enuf that the $180 difference doesn't bother me now.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by houbaviy View Post
    Let's see if we can revive this thread ...

    I have exactly the same oil leak issue as the descriptions in some of the previous posts. There are a lot of conduits below the pump and they are all oily as is the bottom part of the back plate. It seems that the leak comes from the back plate and not from the junction of the pump to the cylinder head housing. (In other words the culprit is not the pump seal.) Does anyone know what seals the back plate to the pump? Is it a gasket (has to be replaced upon disassembly) or a seal (reusable)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Hristo

    I had this same problem. Originally I had the rev 'E' vacuum pump. I removed the rear plate, there's a silicon/rubber gasket that I refitted w/ some sealent. I also replaced the O ring between the pump and the head but the damn thing still leaked....

    I then learnt that this part has been revised a few times so I replaced then entire pump with latest. (at the time, rev 'F') - this has a redesigned placement of the O ring.

    Fitted it and no more leaks...

    I've noticed the part has since been revised again to rev 'H'. I cannot see what the difference is via the pics : http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06D145100F/ES2210965/

    Best of luck !

  19. #19
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Thank you gentlemen! Given the painful removal/installation and the possibility that the rear plate won't reseal, I think I'll go for the whole pump.

    Hristo

  20. #20
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Incidentally, does anyone know the torque specifications for the torx screws? This is the one piece of information that my Bentley manual doesn't have.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    The pump I got was revision H...picked it up from genuine audi parts (best price I could find). Anyway, I didn't compare the pumps too much but I did notice the o-ring design is completely different so I'm hoping I never have to touch this thing again...the intent was spend the $ and put this to bed rather than bandaid a new o-ring every x miles. I still have the old pump sitting in the garage, I'll take a look at it when I get home and see if I can find the revision on it. Revision doesn't really matter, you can tell from the pics in the other thread I put a link to that it has the o-ring out on the flange rather that at the base of the flange.

    http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/20...=Vacuum%20pump
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by houbaviy View Post
    Incidentally, does anyone know the torque specifications for the torx screws? This is the one piece of information that my Bentley manual doesn't have.
    There is no room for a torque wrench to put the T30's in. I used a teeny tiny angle drive and snugged them up with all the pressure I could muster before the bit slipped off the torx head.

    btw....there is very little room back there. I had a short T30 in my torx set and was having problems squeezing it in. Then I found a T30 in a security bit set I bought for some reason that was about 1/8" shorter...that helped. Very very tight.
    2007 2.0T Q 6MT, S-Line, Ti Package, BB
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  23. #23
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I decided to try and replace the seal only. I'll let you know how it goes once it's done (probably this weekend). As for the different revisions and the inability to stop the oil leak by replacing the seal only, here is what I got from genuineaudiparts.com: "This o-ring seal is for the original vacuum pump, part number 06D145100E. The o-ring seal is different if the pump has been replaced." Hopefully, they'll send me the correct seal for my revision pump and those of you who couldn't stop the leak got the wrong seal :-)

  24. #24
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Still leaking with the new seal. New pump it is.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings mcpcartier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by houbaviy View Post
    Still leaking with the new seal. New pump it is.
    That sucks....but is consistent with everything I've read on here. Not sure why, but once that baby starts leaking it's time to replace. New o-rings, re-assembly, silicone, nothing seems to work. Not sure where it fails, but it just dies.
    2007 2.0T Q 6MT, S-Line, Ti Package, BB
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  26. #26
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcpcartier View Post
    That sucks....but is consistent with everything I've read on here. Not sure why, but once that baby starts leaking it's time to replace. New o-rings, re-assembly, silicone, nothing seems to work. Not sure where it fails, but it just dies.
    There is something very strange about this leak. At first, I thought the back plate gasket had failed since that was consistent with the location of the oil accumulation. However, when I wrapped the back plate with aluminum foil the foil was dry after a week or so whereas there was oil outside the area that I wrapped. So I concluded that it is not the back plate gasket and therefore must be the O-ring that seals the pump to the valve housing. That was intact upon disassembly and the new seal didn't work. Go figure.

  27. #27
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Painful swap!

    Quote Originally Posted by houbaviy View Post
    Incidentally, does anyone know the torque specifications for the torx screws? This is the one piece of information that my Bentley manual doesn't have.

    Hey.. Just a quick addition after swapping my leaky/gushing vacuum pump to the new revision H. I found the 3 Torq screws to be a T27 size. I was struggling to deliver the needed leverage with the small 1/4" ratchet and bought a 1/4" long handled spanner to crack the screws. Holding the T27 bit in the screw with one hand and fitting the spanner with the other. Slow and cumbersome but was the only way I could loosen the screws in the painfully tight spot! Hope this info is of assistance.
    Coxy

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings airbornerifleman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by viziers View Post
    Not quite true Fly, as I have an 05.5 and have a "B" cam stock...
    Rev B on an 06? First I've heard of this. I guess the only way to know is to physically check, right?
    2006 Audi 2.0T quattro Tiptronic

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  29. #29
    Active Member One Ring
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    I will be doing this as well as the coolant flange replacement... ill make sure to get some good pictures and hopefully do a good DIY. I still cant believe that the Stealership wanted $1083 to do both...

  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings perrytcolts's Avatar
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    I think I have the exact same problem as well. Anyone have the part number for the latest revision of the vacuum pump?

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Three Rings midnight407's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perrytcolts View Post
    i think i have the exact same problem as well. Anyone have the part number for the latest revision of the vacuum pump?
    06d145100h
    midnight407
    Chicago, IL

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